June 2017
Overview 1 Fashionbi, in collaboration with Intesa Sanpaolo Innovation Center has identified and analyzed Five main trends in 2017 that are going to grow bigger this and in the next years, and can revolutionize the way global of Fashion & Luxury industry functions. These five main trends are: Green & Circular Fashion; Sports & Athleisure; Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion; Customization & Personalization; Millennial Influencers & Customers. In 2017 Fashionbi is going to realize 3 reports: through each report, Fashionbi further analyzes the main chosen trend, in depth, bringing a big focus on the topic relevancy in Fashion, its market growth and contribution in the fashion economy, its implementation by the brands and the companies and various supporting technological factors associated with the same.
Overview 2 The 3 Reports in pipeline are: 1st Report 2017: Eco-Fashion with a special focus on circular economy and sustainable products and materials. 2nd Report 2017: Athleisure, the merge between activewear market and fashion, with a special focus on innovative technologies, sustainability and millennial influencers as a part of the athleisure trend. 3rd Report 2017: Omni-Marketing. The approach that evolving with on going digital and technology integration and include such trends as social media monetization and gamification marketing. In any of the 3 reports the will be a Service Design point of view realized by Experientia describing how service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction.
3 INDEX 1 Five Major Trends in Fashion 2 Evolution of the Athleisure Market Trend 3 Shift from the Professional Sport towards Athleisure 4 New Activewear Players with Special Focus on Sustainability 5 Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands 6 Expansion of the E-tailers into Sports Market Segment 7 Innovative Technologies for Sport 8 Experience Design point of View
Five Major Global Trends in Fashion, 2017 4 GREEN & CIRCULAR FASHION FASHION, SPORT & ATHLEISURE OMNI-MARKETING & INSTANT FASHION CUSTOMIZATION & PERSONALIZATION MILLENNIAL INFLUENCERS & CUSTOMERS
Major Global Trends In Fashion 1. Green & Circular Fashion 5 On 25th September 2015, the United Nations formulated 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) which aim to transform our world. Over the next fifteen years, all countries should mobilize efforts to end all forms of poverty, fight inequalities and tackle climate change. Fashion industry, especially the clothing production, is the second largest polluter in the world, behind only oil. And this is why, as a sector, it has an even bigger responsibility in front of its customers and the society as a whole. Today, it is important more than ever to join the movement towards the sustainable fashion from both sides: production and consumption.
Major Global Trends In Fashion 1. Green & Circular Fashion 6 Scenarios for 2025 by Forum for the Future Slow is beautiful. A world of political collaboration and global trade where slow and sustainable is fashionable Community couture. Where high-tech systems deliver for the speed-obsessed global shopper Techno-chic. Where resource crisis constraints consumption in a world focused on local communities Patchwork planet. A world of fast consumption in global cultural blocs.
Major Global Trends In Fashion 1. Green & Circular Fashion 7 During the past few years, there appeared several organizations which have a common mission to help organizations across the globe find ways to create a sustainable future. Sustainable Apparel Coalition was born thanks to the joint forces between Patagonia and Walmart, and many other brands joined later such as Esprit, Gap, H&M, JC Penney, New Balance, Nike, Nordstrom. Forum for the Future organisation did the projects with such retailers as Marks & Spencer and Levi Strauss&Co. Sustainable Fashion Academy amongst the clients has such brands as Asics, Asos, COS, Filippa K, & Other Stories, Oysho and many others. There are also organizations which are focused on the labour conditions, e.g. Fair Wear Foundation where amongst its members we can find such fashion labels as Acne Studios, Claudia Sträter and many others.
Major Global Trends In Fashion 1. Green & Circular Fashion Global Fashion Industry Size 8 The global apparel market currently standing at $1.4 Tn accounts for 2% of world s GDP. China remains the largest exporter of textile throughout the world with exports worth $286.8 Bln in 2015. Close after is India, Italy, Turkey and Bangladesh. These top 5 largest exporters therefore are supplying up to 54.4% of the total apparel trade worldwide. Womenswear $621 Bln Menswear $402 Bln Speaking of Europe, in terms of Domestic market value of fashion, UK ($94.1 Bln), followed by Germany ($83.6 Bln) and France ($43.3 Bln) are the most prominent countries with the most number of employees involved in the fashion sector (350 000 people on an average). In USA, this value is far ahead with 1.8 Mln people employed in the business. Kidswear $339.4 Bln Bridalwear $57 Bln Source: Eurostat, Bureau of Labour, 2015
Major Global Trends In Fashion 2. Thanks to the rising awareness and consciousness toward health and well-being globally, and increasing active sports participation rates, the global Sportswear market is estimated to grow at a rate of 5.3% through 2016 to 2020. North America, followed by Asia are estimated to be the largest market for sportswear business in the future. Nike Adidas New Balance Skechers Converse Under Armour 9.0% Most Desired Brands for Sneaker in USA 23.8% 22.6% 19.8% 14.0% 9 47.3% The US-based sportswear and lifestyle giant, Nike Inc. is presently the largest company in the market with $32.4 Bln in revenues in 2016, $19.9 Bln are coming from Footwear. ASICS Puma Timberland FILA 8.6% 8.2% 7.3% 6.1% Source: Statista, 2016
Major Global Trends In Fashion 2. 10 An interesting fact to note here is that in the past, an average sports retailer would sell basic t-shirts and trainers - those were enough to keep the sport conscious public satisfied with the functionality of them. However, today, with the ever-so-fashion-conscious generation of Instagram millennials and the impact of the fashion It-girls phenomena, certainly a fashion touch is needed. Similarly, the solely fashion clients of the past now require some functional element in their fashion outfits to take to streets and stay within the trend of casual dress codes. Fashion Touch is important when it comes to the functional wear
Major Global Trends In Fashion 2. Sneakers have become a big trend. It can be seen not only in the tennis courts today but also the streets, fashion shows and even on the red carpets. While this product smoothly integrated with mass-market brand s DNA, it was a rather unexpected but equally appealing phenomena, when sneakers were seen in the advertising and shelves of the premium luxury brands. Today, Chanel, Gucci or Valentino sneakers have become an epitome of high fashion and can be seen everywhere in brand communications as well as in user desirability expressions. There are currently three times as many sneakers on the market as there are skinny jeans. 11 Dior Dolce&Gabbana Chanel Gucci Valentino
Major Global Trends In Fashion 2. 12 Being healthy and sporty has become the new sexy. It is not by chance that activewear has become an integral part of fashion brands lifestyles. Global Sports Apparel and Footwear Revenue And, as the sportswear items have gradually appeared in high fashion, the sportswear brands themselves have moved in the direction of increasing the fashion content in their product offer. $190 Bln $270 Bln $353 Bln In order to attract the trend-aware shoppers, the activewear brands have started collaborating with celebrities, other brands, and the designers of the zeitgeist, and as a result, the sportswear is not strictly worn for fitness purposes only anymore. 2009 2016 2020 Source: Morgan Stanley, 2016
Major Global Trends In Fashion 2. 13 Many sport brands today like Reebok and Puma are going for supermodels and social media influencers such as Gigi Hadid and Kylie Jenner as the ambassadors for their brand, instead of the usual muscular athletes. On the other hand, many cross-collaborations are happening as well where both the brands can benefit with the diverse audience of each other. Some of them are: Alexander Wang x Adidas, Jason Wu x FILA, Derek Lam x Athlete and many more. Kylie Jenner for Puma All this has given rise to a new industry of Athleisure wear. Gigi Hadid for Reebok
Major Global Trends In Fashion 3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion 14 Even though Omnichannel is a must in any industry today, especially fashion - in order to offer the customers a unified and seamless brand experience, still only 45% of retailers cited omni-channel efforts as a top priority for their. According to CMO Club, 55% of companies have no cross-channel strategy in place. Omnichannel is synonym with what we call today as instant fashion. It is nothing but a phenomena where the approach is customer-centric, making a company s products or services easily identifiable and readily available on any platform and in any way the customer prefers to shop. Source: Forrester Research, 2016
Major Global Trends In Fashion 3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion 15 Companies with strong omnichannel customer engagement strategies on an average retain 89% of their customers vs. to 33% for those with weaker strategies 72% of the digital shoppers consider in-store experience as the most important channel in their purchase Shoppers who buy from a brand both in-store and online have a 30% higher lifetime value than those who shop using just one channel 70% of US online shoppers said they have used buy online, pickup in stores service, however, only 57% of the global brands are able to offer this service worldwide Apparel was just behind consumer electronics in terms of being the top omnichannel shopping product Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016
Major Global Trends In Fashion 3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion 16 Customer today is active on various channels with the same brand simultaneously (e.g. with smartphone to get more information while feeling products in-store), hence, it is a brand s primary duty to make the messages a customer is receiving instant, consistent and helpful. This is what can ultimately lead them to the Buy Now button or the checkout counter. Whether they re in a store, on their phone, on a home computer or at a digital kiosk they ll have the same consistent experience, including easy access to product information and the purchase process. ChargeItSpok kiosk at Neiman Marcus store, US
Major Global Trends In Fashion 3. Omni-Marketing & Instant Fashion 17 Smartphones are highly influencing the omnichannel experience. 53% of the shoppers confirm to Mintel that convenience and instancy are the two major factors they consider before making a purchase. And hence, smartphones have become more integral than ever both for the consumers as well as the retailers in order to buy-sell the products and services. About 71% of the shoppers confirm the smartphone as their most important tool in doing research about a product or a retailer. Studies claim that the opportunity cost of not being omnichannel is a 10% drop in revenue, together with a weak customer experience. Hence being it not just a nice-to-have, but a must-have in today s eco system. Smartphones now influence more than 28% of US retail sales Source: EMarketeer.com, ThinkWithGoogle.com 2016
Major Global Trends In Fashion 4. Customization & Personalization 18 Customer has a big say today in how he wants to be fashioned. In fact there is a new movement called Crowdsourced Design where the companies, designers, and consumers all work together to collectively curate designs that eventually make it to the finished product stage. However, it is a very new trend and mostly applicable to small-scale businesses for now. It was the mass market sportswear brands like Nike and Converse in early 2000s who were the firsts to put the customization service in mass level via e-commerce. The luxury brands like Chanel and Valentino, on the other hand, were born with the Haute Couture and bespoke tailoring services in ateliers. Levi s has launched its made-to-order store in New York in 2012
Major Global Trends In Fashion 4. Customization & Personalization 19 Besides the premium and luxury brands which offer the customized goods or monogramming services, more accessible brands also entered the customization trend and provide the unique possibility to create my product. Today, the new meaning of Luxury is making a customer feel connected to the brand and integrating him with the entire experience, which is why the process of mass customization came in. My Coccinelle bag by Coccinelle My Play Furla by Furla
Major Global Trends In Fashion 4. Customization & Personalization 20 If the customizable handbag is not a novelty, the customizable 'non-haute couture' apparel for an accessible price is still rare. One of the examples of such business model is a Tailor Italy. On the brand's online store it is possible to create and shop personalized pieces, that are 100% Made in Italy. This startup was accelerated by Intesa Sanpaolo StartUp Initiative program and was acquired by Miroglio Group in 2016. Tailor Italy, www.tailoritaly.com
Major Global Trends In Fashion 4. Customization & Personalization 21 According to our analysis of the customization options offered by the fashion brands, schematically, they can be divided into these three main levels: Monogramming Is the most basic service, where the customer s initials can be added to the products to differentiate them. Burberry monogramming service for scarves, perfume and bags Partial Customization Happens where customer can change some elements of the products, mixing and matching as they please however, the customers are limited in their fantasy. Strap You by Fendi that allows to personalize your bag with the strap Full Customization A customer can create a one-of-a-kind product by changing all of its elements, the final ready product is 100% for the customer and by the customer. Ray-Ban, Shoes Of Prey, My Swear
Major Global Trends In Fashion 4. Customization & Personalization 22 Customized shopping doesn't always mean the special edition of the product, it is also about the experience. The most welcome in-store retailer communications and offerings include automatic discounts at checkout for loyalty points or coupons (82%) and real-time promotions (57%) Millennials are more likely than Baby Boomers to look for advice on in-store purchases. 45% like the idea of a personal shopper who can pull items according to the customer s style, fit or wardrobe, versus 28% of Baby Boomers. Baby Boomers are more demanding than Millennials when it comes to receiving benefits in exchange for their data. 74% expect to get automatic crediting for coupons and loyalty points, and 70% expect special offers for items they are interested in, versus 58% and 61% of Millennials, respectively Source:Accenture Personalization Survey 2015, US
Major Global Trends In Fashion 5. Millennial Influencers & Customers 23 Long gone is the era when just a handful of names like Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Linda Evangelista were ruling the catwalk. Today is the era of millennial supermodels and they have virtually become the decision makers for the fashion and luxury brands. These new role models are famous and wanted thanks either to their celebrity relatives or to their millions of Instagram following. Any which way, these influencers know their audience, can relate to them and impact their perception and purchase behaviour toward a certain brand. Currently Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Gigi Hadid are the most super influential models who are the dream and desire of every designer, every brand and every consumer in fashion today. Kendall & Gigi for Balmain x H&M Kendall & Gigi for Marc Jacobs FS Kendall, Bella & Gigi for Chanel Kendall & Gigi for Victoria s Secret
Major Global Trends In Fashion 5. Millennial Influencers & Customers 24 Many of these millennials influencers are under the spotlight since the day one of their lives thanks their parents. Today, these young boys and girls are just starting their professional lives but can show pride in already becoming the faces of the top fashion brands Cameron Dallas for Calvin Klein Cameron Dallas, Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, Presley Gerber, Brandon Thomas Lee, Rafferty Law and Luka Sabbat for Dolce&Gabbana But, as said earlier, it is not necessary to have celebrity parents to be at this level. The social media star Cameron Dallas has an army of fans thanks to his comic 6 seconds videos on Vine. Vine itself is transforming to another business model, while Cameron Dallas is monetizing on his popularity. Hailey Baldwin for Stradivarius Zoe Kravitz for Alexander Wang Lily-Rose Depp for Chanel Kaia Gerber for Miu Miu Jaden Smith for Louis Vuitton Alain-Fabien Delon for Dior
Major Global Trends In Fashion 5. Millennial Influencers & Customers 25 The millennials don t necessarily act as the spokesperson for the brand always, they can also be behind-the-scenes and associated in, for example, a creative process for the brand. However, any such association is also just enough to break the internet. Such was the case for Burberry when it decided to bag Brooklyn Beckham to shoot their fragrance ad campaign This is Brit. While some media and photographers were a bit critical of this choice accusing Burberry of taking Brooklyn for his surname rather than photography skills, the social media fans only had appreciation for such a unique angle. P.S. In January 2017 Burberry released its beauty campaign with Iris Law.
26 FASHION, SPORTS AND ATHLEISURE
Development of the Athleisure Trend 27 Athleisure is a fashion trend that intends to marry comfort, functionality and aesthetic of active-wear with desirability of catwalk trends. The popularity of the trend can be explained by the rise of consumers focus on health and wellness. The term athleisure was officially included in the 2016 version of the Merriam-Webster s dictionary as casual clothing designed to be worn both for exercising and for general use. Sportswear from 1960s to 2017
Development of the Athleisure Trend 28 1960s First tracksuit produced by Adidas 1970s Athleisure term first mentioned in a shoe advertising 1980s Rise of disco and aerobics. Legging trend comfortable, practical and easy to match 1990s Musicians became style icons. Pop and hip-hop singers were the first to wear sports apparel in a daily life 2000s Rise of Juicy Couture tracksuits. The New York Times: low performance clothing athleisure 2010s Wellness trends. Brand collaborations and sophisticated appearance on the catwalk
Development of the Athleisure Trend 29 New generation of the customers seek an active lifestyle, today being sporty is in fashion, hence, the brands are trying to meet the consumers' demand by creating new products and enhancing a new experience. As the result you can go to the mountains with Chanel skis or attend Body Studio by the Selfridges store. HEALTH AS WEALTH
Development of the Athleisure Trend 30 Athleisure covers all product categories, from tank tops to leggings and tracksuits but the particular attention is drawn to sneakers, which designed to be worn for exercising, streetwear or daywear. Athleisure is a unisex trend, however the emphasis lies on women as the main target audience.
Sportswear Market Data 31 In 2015 the overall spendings on the sportswear estimated as $281.9 BLN. $102 North America $58.1 Western Europe $25.2 China $24.9 Latin America $15.3 Eastern Europe $16.8 MEA 36.2% 8.8% 20.6% 5.4% 5.9% 8.9% Source: Societe Generale Private Banking, 2016
Sportswear Market Data 32 The sportswear market is still a predominantly male industry. The manufacturers are still discovering the women s segment, which has shown strong growth during the past seasons. The experts tend to believe that women s sportswear to become a key growth engine. The dressing-down trend where more formal wear is being replaced by casual wear, even in the business environment, influence on the acceptance of the athleisure style, hence continue to propel sales going forward. man ~52% Sportswear market division woman ~35% children ~13% Source: Societe Generale Private Banking, 2016
Fashion Market Data In 2016, athletic wear was growing at 8.0-8.5 percent more than twice as fast as any other category. Clothing Footwear Fashion Industry Sales Growth by Category 2015-2016 (%) 33 More active lifestyle of the modern consumers and the entrance of the premium and luxury brands in the activewear market segment will influence on the further growth of the sales of the athletic wear. Athletic wear Bags and luggage Watches and jewellery Other accessories Source: McKinsey & Boff Report, 2016
Fashion Market Data 34 The global apparel footwear market is worth $1.7 Tn and the global sportswear is $282 Bln, hence one in every six dollars we spent globally on apparel and footwear we spend on sportswear. And according to the Euromonitor International the performance athleisure will outstrip sports-inspired apparel growth. Global Sportswear Absolute Value Growth and % CAGR 2016/2021 by Category 0.0% 1.5% 3.0% 4.5% 6.0% 0K 4K 8K 12K 16K Absolute growth % CAGR 2016/2021 Source: Euromonitor International, 2017
Athleisure Market Trend Main reasons behind the athleisure market growth: 35 Shift from the professional sport towards athleisure by the main market players (e.g. Nike, Adidas, Puma, Reebok, Under Armour) New activewear players with the special focus on well-being and sustainability Launch of the sportswear collections by the fast fashion brands (e.g. Zara, H&M, Mango) Special capsule collections and collaborations by the bridge and premium fashion brands Influence of the music culture on fashion and sportswear Expansion of the e-tailers business into sportswear segment Innovative technologies in sportswear market
36 SHIFT FROM THE PROFESSIONAL SPORT TOWARDS ATHLEISURE
From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, NIKE 37 56% of Nike s sales are coming from men s products, but the fastest growing category is women s segment, which increased from $4,976 Mln in 2014 to $6,296 Mln in 2016. Recently Nike started to rely on the female celebrities. In 2015 the singer Ellie Goulding became the face of the new collection, in 2016 Bella Hadid participated in #NYMade campaign and in 2017 Alicia Keys became part of the new Equality campaign. NIKE Net Sales, Mln USD 2017 2016 2015 2014 2012
Sustainable Innovation by NIKE 38 Sustainable innovation is a mindset of Nike helping the company to maximize style and performance, while minimizing environmental impact. As the result, increase in revenues in 2016 was primarily fueled by innovative performance and sportswear products, including Flyknit. Flyknit was introduced to the market in 2012, The use of knitted fabrics has helped to reduce waste by millions of pounds since 2012. Nike Flyknit
Sustainable Innovation by NIKE 39 Besides making most of its products from its own garbage Nike also collaborated with Arthur Huang, the CEO and founder of Taiwanese firm Miniwiz, to develop new sustainable packaging for the shoes. The new packaging box is made entirely of post-consumer materials such as milk and juice containers, and coffee lids. The package can also be used as a backpack. New packaging by Nike
Circular Economy by NIKE NIKE has transformed more than 3 Bln plastic bottles into recycled polyester for use in footwear and apparel from 2012 through May 2016 NIKE Grind is a premium materials palette born from a regeneration process of original materials and products. NIKE is redirecting millions of pounds of manufacturing scrap and old shoes into new uses. Waste streams including rubber, foam and textile scrap are transformed into new, premium materials. 40 TODAY, NIKE GRIND MATERIALS ARE USED IN 71% OF NIKE FOOTWEAR AND APPAREL PRODUCTS NIKE designers have access to a palette of more than 29 high-performance materials made from the factory scrap Since 1990, NIKE s Reuse-A- Shoe program has collected and recycled more than 30 Mln pairs of used shoes. NIKE Grind delivers on NIKE s expectation that materials and products will perform beyond a single use, living on from one product to the next. NIKE Grind materials have been incorporated into more than 1 Blnsquare feet of sports surfaces, such as running tracks, soccer and American football fields, gym room floors, and playground surfaces.
From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, ADIDAS 41 The long-term commitment of the Adidas towards women s business continues to be a focus for the company. By the women s business company imply athlete s performance and non-performance needs through the life activity. No surprise that amongst the latest ambassadors we can see such non-athletes ladies as Selena Gomez, Kate Moss, and Karlie Kloss. Adidas footwear sales grew 21% in 2016, apparel revenues grew 7%. ADIDAS Net Sales, Mln EUR 2017 2016 2015 2014 2011
Sustainable Innovation by ADIDAS 42 Adidas has been awarded a Gold Class in Corporate Sustainability Assessment (CSA). Environmentally friendly innovative ideas and new technologies are company s strength and Adidas has been using this in their creation of products, e.g., avoiding oil-based plastic to reduce carbon emissions, thinner or lighter materials, creating less waste and less embodied carbon, dry-dyeing clothes to save water, chemicals and energy. Parley, Adidas launched sports shoes made from recycled marine waste. In apparel, Adidas produced a full running line featuring t-shirts, tanks, tights, skirts and shorts with 95% pattern efficiency (only 5% waste). Adidas Parley shoes
Sustainable Innovation by ADIDAS 43 In November 2016 Adidas introduced woven shoes from Biosteel fiber, a material was developed by a German biotech company, AMSilk. The material is ultra strong, lightweight and 100% naturally biodegradable, as the result the new shoes can break down in 36 hours with a help of special enzyme. Adidas claims that the company is moving beyond closed loop and into an infinite loop or even no loop at all, by pioneering stride forward beyond sustainability into a new territory of bionic innovation. Adidas Futurecraft Biofabric
From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, UNDER ARMOUR 44 Ben Pruess, senior vice president of sportswear at Under Armour said: It is no secret that the fashion business has come closer to the sport, and sport has come closer to fashion. And to support this claim in practice the company launched Under Armour Sportswear in partnership with designer Tim Coppens, the collection was shown during the NY fashion week in September 2016. Similar to its competitors Under Armour also relies on women s target, in 2016 sales of women s producst reached $1 Bln. UNDER ARMOUR Net Sales, mln USD 2016 2015 2014 2013 2012
Sustainable Innovation by UNDER ARMOUR 45 In 2016 Under Armour celebrated Earth Day by unveiling a concept boot made from 70% sustainable materials. The outsole uses a bio-based injection that is 99% renewable, laces made from recyclable yarns, heel counter and forefoot board made from a bamboo composite. In 2010 Company launched a project line called UA Green in, products were made from recycled plastic bottles creating strands of fiber that are knitted together*. *Currently the UA Green line is not on sale
From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, PUMA 46 Puma is very proud of its ambassadors like Cara Delevingne, Kylie Jenner and Rihanna, these celebrities have none or almost no connection to sports, but are very influential in fashion field. In 2014 Rihanna was appointed as the creative director of the fashion sportswear Puma division. In 2016 women s business saw the launch of a series of successful styles: shoes, apparel and accessories both in collaboration with Rihanna. PUMA Net Sales, Mln EUR 2017 2016 2015 2014 2012
Sustainable Activities by PUMA According to PUMA COO, Lars Sørensen, sustainability and business need to go hand in hand, therefore the company from 2016 onwards have set a broad range of new sustainability targets until 2020, ranging from Health and Safety to Corporate Governance, and Human Rights to eliminating Hazardous Chemicals. Lifecycle studies demonstrated that the majority of the environmental impact for Puma s products occurs during the raw material creation and processing phases. Therefore the company set targets for certifications of the main materials, namely cotton, polyester, leather as well as paper and cardboard. Division Apparel Accessories Footwear Progress Against Material Targets Material Targets % of total volume 2015 % of total volume 2016 Target 2016 Target 2020 Cotton sourced as BCI 0 19 20 50 Bluesign certified Polyester 15 24 20 50 Bluesign certified Polyester 20 21 20 50 LWG medal-rated leather suppliers 99 94 90 90 Traceability LWG A&B leather rating 20 18 20 tbd FSC certified and/or recycled paper and cardboard 85 78 80 90 47
From Professional Sport towards Athelisure, REEBOK 48 In October 2016 Gigi Hadid (style icon and trendsetter) joined Reebok as the face of #PerfectNever campaign. #PerfectNever movement is a call to action that asks women around the world to celebrate the beauty of imperfection and champions Reebok s message of self-betterment. Reebok also partners with a number of highly influential music artists (rappers) such as Kendrick Lamar and Future. REEBOK Net Sales, Mln EUR 2016 2015 2014 2013
Sustainable Innovation by REEBOK 49 In April 2017, Reebok presented a new line of compostable footwear made of cotton and corn. The plant-based sneakers have the upper part made of organic cotton and a base originating from industrial-grown corn (a non-food source). Company s goal is to present a broad selection of bio-based footwear which can be composted after use, instead of ending up in a landfill. What is more, the sneakers compost will serve as a part of the soil to grow the materials for the next range of shoes.
50 NEW ACTIVEWEAR PLAYERS WITH SPECIAL FOCUS ON SUSTANABILITY
Organic Fibers Sustainable Activewear 51 Green Apple Active Sustainable active wear clothes from the certified organically grown bamboo. Pact Clothes from the non-gmo organic, responsible manufacturing, and valuesbased shopping. Satva Collaborates with socially, environmentally conscious organic cotton production for the activewear clothes.
Recycled Polyester Sustainable Activewear 52 RUMI X Deliver simple everyday performance apparel for studio-to-street, made from recycled plastic. Cozy Orange Produce clothing from recycled polyester and keep their production sustainable and eco-friendly. Yoga Democracy Use recycled polyester and recycled nylon to produce activewear for yoga and daily wear.
Organic Cotton & Recycled Polyester Sustainable Activewear 53 Threads 4 Thought Full lifestyle brand that is produced responsibly & use organic cotton and recycled polyester. Manduka Designed using premium fabrics sourced primarily from environmentally responsible materials. Prana Clothing from recycled polyester, organic cotton and other sustainable materials.
Eco-Friendly Materials Sustainable Activewear 54 Allbirds Shoes made from ZQcertified merino wool, which meets sustainable farming standards. Nau Produce functional and aesthetic clothes, while setting higher social and environmental standards. NoMiNoU Athleisure innovative eco friendly brand, that creates activewear, including yoga and pilates clothes.
55 ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS BY THE FASHION BRANDS
Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands 56 Conditionally all the fashion brands can be divided into 3 main groups: mass market, bridge and premium. The main criteria for this division is marketing strategy which relies on price and distribution. Despite the market segment the brands are trying to enter activewear market by launching new products to be in line with the athleisure trend. Premium and Luxury brands Bridge Fashion Brands Mass Market and Fast Fashion Brands
Activewear Collections by the Fashion Brands 57 Premium Brands do not give any titles to the activewear products but just include the sport goods in main collections, e.g. D-Fence shoes by Dior or launch special collaborations Premium and Luxury brands The bridge brands rely on the athleisure key word. The new products go under the brand s name, but separated from the main collection, e.g. Pinko Athleisure or can be created together with the sportswear companies Bridge Fashion Brands Launch of the sportswear products can have different label and promoted via special campaigns and ambassadors, e.g. For Every Victory by H&M Mass Market and Fast Fashion Brands
58 ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS BY THE FAST FASHION BRANDS
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands 59 When: July 2013 What: Start Moving Bershka was one of the first mass market brands to propose a gym wear with its Start Moving campaign. In 2015 the brand also collaborated with Reebok for the special collection of sneakers, the official hashtag of the campaign was #MYURBANGYM. The sneakers called City Maps weigh only 200 grams, have a shockabsorbing sole and was priced 59.99 euro The first Start Moving collection for Fall Winter 2013-2014
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands 60 When: March 2016 What: Gymwear Zara brand launched new category called Gymwear which offers the customers trendy apparel for training - Box, Run, Ballet. The face of Zara Sport campaign is famous model Edie Campbell. In selected Zara stores, sportswear apparel and accessories are organized in a special area, separating them from casual wear However, due to the fashionable twist of the Zara Gym wear is often worn for its aesthetics and trendiness rather than performance features. Gymwear by Zara
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands 61 When: April 2016 What: Active Sport Training In April 2016 OVS launched the Active Sport Training collection for men and women. The prices are ranged between 10 and 30 euro, many pieces cost 9.99 which is the lowest price compared to the other fast fashion brands. OVS also propose sport collection for kids, #ActiveForKids, which is basically the jersey jumpers, T- shirts and trousers for girls and boys. Active Sport Training
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands 62 When: July 2016 What: For Every Victory Campaign In summer 2016 H&M celebrated the life changing power of personal victories with the trendy and functional sports collection For Every Victory. The campaign was fronted by inspiring personalities starring Caitlyn Jenner along with Chelsea Warner, a gymnast with down syndrome, surfer Mike Coots who lost his leg in a shark attack, boxer Namibia Flores who defied gender roles. H&M For Every Victory Campaign
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands 63 When: February 2017 What: Nautical Collection Fila and Urban Outfitters first collaborated in the Fall of 2015 for a retro inspired womenswear collection, influenced by the 90s spirit of the sportswear brand. In February 2017 was launched fourth collection by FILA x UO, which has a nostalgic retro aesthetic, taking mostly the visual characteristics of sportswear instead of functional. Nautical Collection, 2017 Motocross Collection, 2016
Activewear Collections by the Fast Fashion Brands 64 When: March 2017 What: Mango Sport Mango doesn t yell about its sport collections via noticeable collaborations but does promote it on via social media channels. In March 2017 was introduced the gym collection for the Spring Summer 2017 season, last summer the brand was promoting its yoga line, asking the followers to share their asana with the brand via special hashtag, #MANGOYoga. Mango Sport, 2017
65 ACTIVEWEAR COLLECTIONS BY THE BRIDGE AND PREMIUM FASHION BRANDS
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 66 JASON WU Jason Wu collaborated with Fila for 3 seasons The first collection was presented at the fashion show in Hong Kong at the end of 2015 In November 2016 the Spring Summer 2017 collection was presented on the catwalk in Beijing Jason Wu x Fila collection is available in selected countries Jason Wu x Fila Spring Summer 2016 collection
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 67 ALEXANDER WANG During the NYFW Alexander Wang presented the Adidas Originals unisex line The capsule collection was sold in pop-up trucks in New York, London and Tokyo, with big crowds waiting in line From April 2017 the collection by Alexander Wang is available at both brands flagships, online and at 140 retail locations globally New York, September 2016
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 68 PRABAL GURUNG The brand launched Prabal Gurung Sport collection in collaboration with sport multi brand retailer Bandier Prabal himself explains that the collection is for women off-duty, in her leisure time The face of the collection is Hailey Baldwin, not the athlete but the model and millennial influencer, her uncle is Alec Baldwin
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 69 DEREK LAM Till today Derek Lam and Athleta launched four collections Derek Lam s VP of design underlined that they took a tailored, sophisticated approach to activewear and athleisure The collection is more upscale than Athleta s typical products and also includes $498 leather jacket and $228 cashmere sweater May 2016 September 2015
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 70 J.CREW J.Crew and New Balance collaborated for the first apparel activewear line for men and women in 2016 J.Crew appointed real people for the campaign Jenna Lyons, creative director of J.Crew brand*, said "We hope these clothes (along with ice cream) help motivate you to do whatever activity it is you like to do. And if they don't, we still think they look great sitting on the couch." *In April 2017 was announced that Jenna Lyons is leaving the company
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 71 PINKO Athleisure collection of the same name is present on the brand s website in the separate product category On social media channels the athleisure products are promoted as the Spring Summer 2017 collection Pinko emphasize on the athleisure key word, explains the trend to the customers and shows how to style new comfy products
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 72 KATE SPADE NEW YORK Kate Spade launched the athleisure line in collaboration with Beyond Yoga The collection consists from 21 pieces and priced between $85-$250 Besides the basic tank tops, bras, legging, and shorts the collection also includes pullovers and jackets
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 73 REPLAY In October 15 Replay joined the athleisure trend by launching a new product - Hyperskin jeans The main message of the campaign was to break the stereotype that you cannot exercise in jeans, Irina Shayk was appointed as the face of the campaign The Hyperskin jeans are available at Reply stores in 2 colors (blue and black) and cost 145 euro
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 74 VALENTINO In April 2017 Valentino launched #FlyCrewSneaker by Pierpaolo Piccioli, the collection was shown by the skaters In January was launched Valentino Untitled unisex collection, which was presented by the dancers from a selection of Parisian ballet schools During the past few seasons one of the most popular product category by Valentino is the the studded sneaker
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 75 LOUIS VUITTON During Paris fashion week in January 2017 Louis Vuitton released the collection in collaboration with Supreme Price range in line with the assortment of Louis Vuitton s main collections, $4000 for backpacks, $955 for sneakers, $2000 for denim jackets The collection will be available at the Louis Vuitton stores in US starting from June 2017
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 76 LACOSTE In March 2017 was released the special collection by Lacoste and Supreme The collection is sport-inspired and includes range of track jackets and sweaters ($198), polos and track pants ($148), shorts ($123), and caps ($50) The collection is on sale at the Supreme shops in New York, Los Angeles, London, and Paris, as well as online
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 77 DIOR Dior doesn't make the difference between sporty products and the classy ones, the newly launched D-Fence sneakers are communicated together with the classy pumps Women s Spring Summer 2017 collection was inspired by the fencing, Beatrice Vio is the new brand ambassador During the SS 2017 fashion week on the catwalk were shown the series of the T-shirts
Athleisure by the Bridge and Premium Fashion Brands 78 GUCCI In April 2017 Gucci release its Pre Fall 2017collection via special campaign, styled by Alessandro Michele The collection was presented via Athletic dance moves Earlier the brand announced about its new service customization of the Gucci Ace sneakers with the special patches
79 INFLUENCE OF THE MUSIC CULTURE ON FASHION
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion 80 The Weeknd Facts: His name often appears headed for the music charts. His lyrics deal with sex, drugs, prostitution and similar themes. Some videos on his official YouTube channel gain more than 700 mln views. His audience on Instagram equals to 12 mln. In 2016 The Weeknd collaborated with several brands. Spring Summer 2017 Run the Streets by Puma Spring Summer 2017 Spring Icons by H&M
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion 81 Lil Yachty Facts: Hip-hop artist from USA, born in 1997. Some videos on his official YouTube channel gain more than 6 mln views. In February 2017 Lil Yachty debuted as Nautica s creative director at the NYFW. Karen Murray, President of Nautica relies on the Lil Yachty vast and growing millennial following. Lil Yachty in Nautica for Urban Outfitters Limited edition pieces by Lil Yachty x Nautica
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion 82 FKA TWIGS Facts: Tahliah Debrett Barnett, known by the stage name FKA Twigs, is an English singer, songwriter, was born in 1988. Some videos on his official YouTube channel gain more than 8 mln views. Her new track Trust In Me was the part of Nike Women s Spring Zonal Strength tights campaign. FKA TWIGS for Nike, January 2017 FKA TWIGS for Calvin Klein, March 2016
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion 83 BEYONCE Facts: Beyoncé has received numerous awards. As a solo artists she sold over 100 million records worldwide making her one of the best-selling music artists of all time. Beyonce endorsed many brands and even participated in development of some fashion collections. In 2016 she officially launched an activewear brand Ivy Park. Ivy Park by Beyonce
Influence of the Pop Culture on Fashion 84 RIHANNA Facts: Rihanna is one of the most influential artists with sales exceeding 230 million records worldwide. In February 2016 Rihanna presented the Fenty Puma collection for men and women during the NYFW. According to Puma the Rihanna s collection had a tremendous impact on the company s success in the fashion/ lifestyle area and was sold out within hours. Rihanna s Fenty Puma collection
85 EXPANSION OF THE E-TAILERS INTO SPORT SEGMENT
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment 86 In July 2014 Net-A-Porter launched a new platform Net-A-Sporter. More than 35 designers and brands are available with the prices ranged from $80 to $3500 Besides the wide range of the assortment for running, swimming, skiing tennis, yoga exercises, the customers of Net-A-Sporter can also learn on how to prepare a detox drink and which beauty products is essential to buy after the sport activities.
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment 87 Louisaviaroma also sells the activewear for the gym and beyond for men and women. In addition to the new activewear brands in the assortment of Louisaviaroma the customer can find selection of goods from Nike, Reebok and Adidas. Similar to Net-A-Sporter Louisaviaroma is covering all the main activities: boxing, running, skateboarding, skiing, training, yoga, tennis and so on.
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment 88 In February 2017 Mytheresa.com in collaboration with Missoni launched a special activewear capsule collection, a sixpiece range consists of a cropped cardigan, a top, leggings, a jumpsuit, a halter neck bra and trousers all done with the signature Missoni print. It was a first activewear collection for Missoni, but not the last one. Just 2 months after, Missoni announced about the new project with Stéphane Ashpool for the basketball-inspired men s wear collection.
Expansion of the E-tailers into Sportswear Segment 89 Amazon is currently selling its own brands of dresses and suits and at the beginning of the 2017 it became known that Amazon is planning to develop its own line of the workout apparel. It is important to note that online giant already sells big number of the sportswear brands including the top ones like Nike, Adidas, Puma, Under Armour.
90 INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES FOR SPORT
Wearable Technology 91 Sensoria Smart Sock The company created the smart sock that can tell how fast and how far, and also how well you run. Each smart sock is infused with textile sensors under the plantar area (bottom of the foot) to detect foot pressure. Adjustable anklet connects sock to the Sensoria mobile app. Furthermore the company offers the t-shirt for men and sports bra for women that has attachable heart rate monitor that is also sending the information to the app.
Wearable Technology 92 Ralph Lauren Smart T-shirt Ralph Lauren, in collaboration with Montrealbased tech startup OmSignal, made a "secondskin" fabric workout shirt, that has silver fibers woven directly into the fabric and a small, sensorfilled black box that snaps into the shirt near the rib cage, to track biometric stats like steps taken, heart rate, breathing depth, and energy exertion. The data transfers to the PoloTech App, which offers live fitness monitoring, reporting and a push rate, which measures exertion, power and effort, during sports activity.
Wearable Technology 93 Runtimate Armband The Armband has a magnetic fastening between the phone case and the band, that allows to remove or use the phone during the training if necessary. The product technology is borrowed from the manufacture of technical equipment for extreme sports, so the armband is made to withstand even a during intense training.
Wearable Technology 94 BearTek Gloves BearTek Gloves primarily aimed to people, that do skiing, snowboarding and motorcycling or any other kind of sport involving low temperature or requiring hand protection. Bluetooth system gives users controls for their devices quite literally at their fingertips. The Gloves can be connected to smartphone or GoPro and allow users to control music, camera and phone calls.
Wearable Technology 95 Levi s & Google Smart Jacket For Urban Cyclists The smart Commuter jacket has technology woven into its fibers, and allows users to take phone calls, get directions and check the time, by tapping and swiping their sleeves. That delivers information to them through their headphones so that they can keep their eyes on the road without having to fiddle with a screen. Its smart fibers are washable; they're powered by a sort of smart cufflink that have to be removed when you wash the jacket. The cufflink has a two-day battery life. The jacket should hit stores in fall of 2017.
Wearable Technology 96 Wearable X Fan Jersey The Football Fan Shirt is embedded with haptic technology that physically and digitally connects the fan to their favorite team in real-time. The Shirt is incorporated with the sensors, marked green on the picture, and by using haptic vibrations, the shirt communicates all important moments that happen during the game. The shirt connects with special app by Bluetooth doing the real-time experience possible.
Wearable Technology 97 Fyre: Temperature-Regulating Hoodies Crowdfunding campaign on Indiegogo Fyre creates hoodies and cardigans that distribute the heat with the help of removable battery. The company claim to use extremely thin and flexible carbon heating fibers that ensure an even distribution of heat. The Hoodies are machine-washable after removing the battery. The startup raised 250% from the declared goal.
Wearable Technology 98 Vitali: The Everyday Smart Bra Crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter The idea for Vitali first came from yoga. Good breathing and posture are not only vital to the practice, but also everyday wellbeing. With biofeedback from the Gem and sensors, located in the bra, the company is able to analyze the data about breathing, posture and heart rate and give users advices, to straighten the back or take a break, in real time.
Mobile Applications Technology For Sport 99 Heart Watch Heart Watch lets you see how your heart is beating across three simple views. Waking, Regular & Workout. WeFit Italian startup that helps people to find and book their personal trainer, according to physical activity they want to do.
Mobile Applications Technology For Sport 100 BuddyForFit BuddyForFit is a social platform that allows you to instantly find sport buddies near you and train together. WeFitter Startup from Barcelona allows users to participate in fitness challenges, earn points and convert them for rewards from different brands.
Sports Equipment Technology For Sport 101 BodyBoss 2.0 Indiegogo startup from US, that simulates 1,000s of dollars worth of gym equipment in one portable platform. G-FORCE Indiegogo startup from Italy which allows to perform the widest range of exercises in one piece of gear.
10 2 EXPERIENCE DESIGN POINT OF VIEW
Experiencing Fashion: How service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction 10 3 "Like the process of UX design, fashion design is iterative and goes through many phases before you're ready to get it to your user or customer" - Regina Gilbert Service design is an approach to help the fashion industry become more human-centered, aligning their products, services and business models firmly with people s behaviors and aspirations. Opportunities include improving the fashion customer journey and experience, ideating new services for the fashion industry, building more sustainable business models, and integrating new technologies into fashion in a truly user-centered (rather than tech-centered) way.
10 4 The service design toolkit Ethnography and observation to explore behaviors Prototyping and co-creation New paradigms and technologies New business models Service design for the fashion industry
Experiencing Fashion: How service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction 10 5 The service design toolkit Service design is a holistic approach that explores the behaviors, activities and contexts of (potential) customers, distills insights from this, and then uses these behavioral models to shape services and how customers experience them. The design toolkit includes techniques like observation, ethnography, structured interviews and other qualitative research methods, modeling tools like customer journeys, personas, scenarios, and design approaches like concept design and prototyping. "Service design explores behaviors, activities and contexts, and then uses these 'behavioral models' to shape services and how customers experience them.
Experiencing Fashion: How service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction 10 6 Ethnography and observation to explore behaviors The human-centered approach is becoming increasingly important in fashion, due to the many varied online and offline ways the fashion industry connects with its customers and the nascent growth of wearables and soft computing (technology that is inside the fabrics themselves). Therefore, the fashion business will need to more thoroughly understand the attitudes, behaviors and contexts of consumers and design new products and services that excel in usability and user experience, particularly when considered with other activities consumers do, like driving, working, running etc. Likewise, we must consider people's contexts. How will this service be experienced in crowded store environments, noisy concerts? What if the service is accessed from home, from work, from a device? By observing people's real-life behaviors in their various environments, we can shape their interactions with the service accordingly. "The fashion business will need to more thoroughly understand the attitudes, behaviors and contexts of consumers and design new products and services that excel in usability and user experience."
Experiencing Fashion: How service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction 10 7 Prototyping and co-creation Consumers can be engaged and active within the design process through co-creation - identifying hidden requirements and giving direct input into the design through empathetic, hands-on techniques. Services can even be prototyped, through models that allow consumers to experience what using the service would be like, and offer feedback. New business models New business models can help fashion companies to develop more sustainable practices, addressing the criticisms of fast fashion. By addressing the stages of the garment journey from development to customer and beyond, the fashion industry can incorporate cradle to cradle practices and a circular economy approach, such as recycling and reusing components, and building end-of-life service practices into the customer journey. Service design can go beyond the brand and customer experience, and help ensure that technology is being incorporated into fashion products and stores in a way that is meaningful for consumers, and useful for business purposes.
Experiencing Fashion: How service design can help fashion brands improve customer interaction 10 8 New paradigms and technologies The user experience will be critical in designing how people interact with wearable devices, but how will this provide a smooth and delightful user experience and be different from how we interact with other smart devices? We also need to consider how people expect wearables to behave, and whether we need to adapt old interaction models before we apply them to a new class of devices. Digital technologies will also allow fashion companies to collect a lot more data - not just from online and CRM technologies, but from the technology embedded into garments themselves. Good service design can ensure that brands collect information that is relevant and useful to them, by combining knowledge of their audience with the appropriate technologies. "The user experience will be critical in designing how people interact with wearable devices.
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry: Interview with Todd Harple 10 9 Dr. Todd Harple is an anthropologist in Intel's New Devices Group, based in Oregon, USA. His work focuses on wearables and the future of computing. He has worked for 11 years at Intel as a researcher and innovator, and is currently the Director of Innovation & Pathfinding Strategies. He lived in Turin, Italy for four months in 2013. Todd has been working for several years in the field of soft computing (as in understanding what it takes to make sensors and technologies conformable and soft to the touch and the body, often integrated inside fabrics) and smart apparel. His activities began with building an understanding of the people who were already actively integrating technology into garments, understanding what people were trying to achieve, what was working, and what wasn't before moving to integrate those findings with new materialities of sensing and computation made possible by new materials and miniaturization of technologies that could form the foundation of an emerging data economy.
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry: Interview with Todd Harple 11 0 How are soft computing and smart apparel changing the fashion industry? We learned early on from user research that what people wear, hold or carry often has meanings that inter-relate fashion, style, functionality and beyond. What this means for consumers is the possibility of a frictionless way to capture detailed, increasingly accurate contextual information about their bodies, behaviors, and contexts. In the near term, many of these capabilities are being honed for athletes to improve workouts, body efficiencies and more. In the long term, it is quite possible that our garments will form a sort of black box that will inform us of risks to our health and that of others around us ranging from understanding basics like heartrate and activity to more detailed information about hydration, blood sugars, muscle performance, and even cognitive performance. These capabilities may well transform the future of healthcare and human well-being in general. As an anthropologist, I'm driven by understanding how to generate an empathic connection with people who might use whatever we might make, but at the same time I'm well aware of the tech constraints and business concerns that need to be balanced. Soft computing combined with miniaturization of technology is bringing new tools and capabilities into fashion that enable designers to transform the way we look and perform at work and at play. Its not just dresses on the runway featuring robotics or biosensors. Nor is it simply clothing and accessories that can seamlessly improve our fitness and prevent injury. Soft computing and smart apparel will increasingly leverage the intimate contact between our garments, accessories and our bodies and motions to bring new data, experiences, and understandings to the world. In some ways, one might consider fashion designers the developers of the future. Empowered by soft computing, designers and fashion houses may well be poised for a dramatic pivot as arbiters of the world s largest databases of personal data. In research on fashion technology, we found many cases of fashion designers trying to reconcile a desire to manipulate aesthetics and functionality of garments initially for artistic expression. On the one hand, we learned how materials and materiality influenced and inspired design. On the other, how for an emergent group of designers, traditional processes and expertise around things like sketching, pattern making, cutting and sewing were in part giving way to things like digital sketching, 3D modelling and printing and assembly.
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry: Interview with Todd Harple 11 1 How can a service design approach help us to improve fashion design? The systemic approach of service design can and will impact the entire fashion industry. Already designers and fashion houses are experimenting with the delivery of new services and experiences that integrate technology at nearly every stage of the product development lifecycle: development of new fabrics and materials using both organics and synthetics, development of fibres that take on new capabilities like color or phase change or conductivity and new tools with which to design (sketching and prototyping virtually with such resolution that visions will be bound only by the imagination) and manufacture and so forth. Co-creation and mass customization as services that tie design, manufacturing and purchase more closely together are the early sentinels of service design s utility in fashion. Already emerging in the footwear segment, it will extend across all garments and accessories. Traditional analog is beginning to find a comfortable relationship with digital partnerships (think the likes of Tag Heuer and Intel). For example: The Adrenaline Dress is a collaboration between Intel and fashion designer Becca McCharen. It responds to the wearer s stress levels and adrenal function, and changes shape accordingly. (Image courtesy of Intel)
Service design opportunities for the fashion industry: Interview with Todd Harple 11 2 What are the main ways you have observed service design entering the fashion world in the last 1-3 years? Service design can connect the consumer, design, and manufacturing journeys more strongly. This can be seen in the emergence of mass customization and personalization things like Shoes of Prey and Feetz. In terms of business models, we can discover creative ways to make use of sharing economy models - for example, offering people the experience of trying high-end fashion (e.g. Rent the Runway) and simultaneously creating an economy to get maximum wear and recycling. This can also lead to radical re-thinks of products, focusing on a circular economy/cradle-to-cradle service design, to respond to criticism around fast fashion (think Patagonia). The Synapse Dress logs and communicates mood and stress levels. The 3D printed dress was designed by Dutch Fashion Tech designer Anouk Wipprecht with Niccolo Casas and Intel s New Devices Group. (Image courtesy of Intel)