learn. share. BESPOKE BOB SPOTLIGHT COLOR MELT Whoever thinks classic is boring doesn t know a thing about hairdressing. As hairstylists, we totally get that classics are deemed classic for a reason: they never go out of style! A perfect example of this timeless appeal? The Bespoke Bob with Spotlight Color Melt, a modern masterpiece by brilliant stylist, Richard Mannah, and legendary colorist, Cherry Barber-Petenbrink. Thanks to a rocksolid classical foundation and lots of customizable features like internal layering and spotlights of color, this super cool technique serves as a virtual springboard for off-the-charts artistry; giving you the freedom and more importantly the confidence to pull off any look you can dream up. Here, the inspiration behind the creation CHERRY BARBER-PETENBRINK @Hairbycherryp Joico International Guest Artist RICHARD MANNAH @Richardmannah Joico International Guest Artistic Director When I work on a film or editorial project, I have all the time in the world to conceptualize and create the most over-the-top color statements. In the salon, that s not possible time is money. That s where my Spotlight Color Melt comes in: to help make everyday salon color faster, more impactful, and more versatile than ever. It works on hair of any length, texture, or natural color. It gives you the option to use foils or paint freehand. And, because it features a shadow root, multidimensional tones, and elements of ombré, color melting, highlighting, and color blocking, the creative possibilities are only limited by your imagination and, of course, your client s desired end result. The Bespoke Bob is a classic shape tailored to the individual with a unique haircutting design for a modern look. The true essence of skill, precision and suitability. The inspiration behind the Bespoke Bob comes from what s been seen on celebrities and models around the world. Bespoke - altered or tailored to the customs, tastes, or usage of an individual lends itself beautifully to the world of hair we live in today. Women aren t wearing their hair in just one style anymore but an evolution of styles which allows for creative freedom. The unique layering, graduation and shape makes it more versatile. The bespoke bob truly embraces the freedom of women; it can be tailored for the classic woman all the way to the androgynous artistic fashionista. When combined with the Spotlight Melt color technique beauty emerges.
BESPOKE BOB SECTIONING STEP 1 Take a center parting from the front hairline down to the nape, then a radial section from the crown to the top of each ear. Take a triangular section from two inches above the ear to just above the occipital bone. STEP 2 Create a triangular parting by sectioning an upside down triangle from the parietal ridge point to the top of the occipital bone. STEP 3 Repeat on the opposite side. STEP 4 From the same point above the ear, section a top front triangle section that meets about two inches away from the center hairline in the front. (Adjust this according to individual hair type and density.) Take a slight diagonal section to the corner of the brow on both sides to isolate the fringe. HAIRCUT STEP 5 Beginning in the back section, comb hair straight down at 0 degrees with a fine-toothed comb and cut to the desired length. Use point cutting to create a square design line. Make sure to keep hair damp and use medium tension. STEP 6 Continue to cut the baseline square. Make sure hair is all combed down to a straight line. Notice how the hair by the ear is slightly overdirected for a square baseline; this will maintain the corners behind the ear.
TIP Make sure to use a shallow point cutting technique using the tip of the shears; this will maintain precision at the base while keeping the edge a little more lived-in. STEP 7 Always check the balance on both sides and cross-check your work for perfection. STEP 8 Start the graduation at the back. Take a ½-inch parallel section right below the triangle and pull hair straight out at 90 degrees; start cutting from the center to the corner (short to long) to create long graduation through the back area. Before cutting the guideline, measure where the layers will fall to see the result of the graduation. The shorter you cut this first section, the more texture it will create. Point cut using medium tension. STEP 9 Continue taking parallel sections below. Overdirect each section to the stationary guideline until all hair reaches. STEP 10 Repeat on the opposite side using the pre-sectioned angle. Use a piece of hair from the center as a guide for the opposite side. STEP 11 Check the balance on both sides. STEP 12 Move to the front right side section. Take a ½-inch diagonal section parallel to the front triangle section. Use a piece of hair from the back section as a guide. This section will be cut from short to long for a softer layered shape.
STEP 13 Overdirect each section to the stationary guideline for maximum length and weight through the sides. Keep your fingers parallel to the stationary guideline. STEP 14 Continue taking diagonal forward sections until all hair reaches the guideline. Point cut each section from short to long. Notice the clean sectioning: Clean sections help maintain precision and balance so you don t lose your guidelines. STEP 15 Continue until the entire section is complete. The overdirection will keep the perimeter intact and layering more internal, ensuring you don t accidentally create any holes by the ears. STEP 16 Repeat on the opposite side. STEP 17 After the layers have been cut on each side, comb hair straight down and continue point cutting the baseline square using the guide from behind the ears. When working around the ears, comb hair straight down and use your shears to press hair against the head on the top and bottom of the ear to loosen the tension and prevent creating holes around the ear area. STEP 18 Repeat on the opposite side. STEP 19 Comb the sides back and clip away.
STEP 20 Move to the top diamond section at the top. Take a horizontal section right behind the radial and elevate square. Point cut the section square to the desired length. This section will be the shortest point of the layers. These layers will create shape and volume. STEP 21 Continue taking horizontal sections; overdirect the back triangle forward to the stationary guideline and point cut square. STEP 22 Move to the top front triangle. Overdirect each section back to the same stationary guideline. The amount of overdirection will determine the top layering. The more you overdirect, the longer the layers will be. STEP 23 Move to the front fringe section. Take a center vertical section and cut round for a softer fringe. Visualize the length before cutting. STEP 24 Overdirect each section to the center and point cut; this will create longer layers around each side. STEP 25 Cross-check by pulling the entire section horizontally straight out from the face and point cutting the ends to soften the shape. STEP 26 Comb all hair straight down. Using medium tension, cut the hair that falls over the baseline by point cutting through the comb at 0 degrees.
SPOTLIGHT COLOR MELT FORMULAS FORMULA 1: (Prelightening) Blonde Life Lightening Powder with 10 (3%) Volume LumiShine Developer TONER FORMULA: Blonde Life Quick Tone Liqui-Creme Toner Silver with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 2: Color Intensity Pearl Pastel Blush + Rose FORMULA 3: Color Intensity Pearl Pastel Silver Ice FORMULA 4: Color Intensity Pearl Pastel Violet Pearl FORMULA 5: (Spotlights; placed side by side in same bowl) Color Intensity Hot Pink, Color Intensity Light Purple ALTERNATE FORMULAS: LUMISHINE FORMULA 1: (Prelightening) Blonde Life Lightening Powder with 10 (3%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 2: (Base) LumiShine Demi-Permanent DD Crème 6NW with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 3: LumiShine Demi-Permanent DD Crème 7NW with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 4: LumiShine Demi-Permanent DD Crème 9NW with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 5: (Spotlights) Blonde Life Crème Lightener with 10 (3%) Volume LumiShine Developer
DEFY DAMAGE PROSERIES 1 Holding can in a downward angle, apply in short bursts to dry hair prior to chemical service. SHAKE CAN VIGOROUSLY. Apply starting at the back of the head, spraying onto horizontal sections, two inches apart. Continue this application method until all sections have been treated. If you have sections of hair that are more damaged than others, you may reapply ProSeries 1 to those areas for added protection. Comb through hair to ensure complete, even coverage. Perform color or lightening service as usual and according to manufacturer s directions. Once the color or lightening process is complete, rinse or shampoo hair (depending on manufacturer s directions), then follow with Defy Damage ProSeries 2. DEFY DAMAGE PROSERIES 2 Defy Damage ProSeries 1 Perform Color or Lightening Service Rinse or Shampoo as instructed Apply Defy Damage ProSeries 2. Leave in hair for 5 minutes. Rinse. Apply ProSeries 2 to damp hair. Leave in for 5 minutes. Rinse. OPTIONAL PREP WORK: Before starting the Spotlight Color Melt technique, prelighten hair to a Level 10 (Pale Yellow) using Formula 1. Tone the hair using the Toner Formula and process until you reach a cool, pastel blonde tone. Shampoo and condition with Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo and Conditioner, then fully dry hair. STEP 1 Starting at the nape, apply Formula 2 (base) from the scalp to 1-2 inches in a global shadow root application. Work at an angle to create a seamless blend into the next shade. STEP 2 Take a V-parting below the occipital bone (depending on length of haircut). STEP 3 Apply Formula 3 to remaining hair in the corner partings, then melt/blend global formula and interior formula to create a seamless transition. STEP 4 Repeat on the opposite side.
STEP 5 Take a triangle section from where the two corner partings meet. Section out a fine horizontal parting and clip away from the top of this triangle. This will become a spotlight. STEP 6 Starting at the bottom of the triangle section, apply Formula 4 from the ends to the mid-shaft. STEP 7 Apply Formula 3 to the interior area, then melt into the end and base colors; this will create a blend of Formula 2 into Formula 3 into Formula 4. Use your fingers in a scissor motion to seamlessly melt the colors together. STEP 8 Take the clipped away horizontal fine parting and release it. It s time to create your spotlights! Using the bowl with the two colors, pick up the colors together using one color brush. Dab the colors onto fine partings in a tie-dye method throughout the fine horizontal parting. STEP 9 Once the spotlight colors have been applied, scissor-blend the entire section using your fingers. STEP 9 cont. Result of the spotlight color blend. STEP 10 Continue working up the head in the same manner. Take two corner triangular sections and apply Formulas 3 and 4 to the mid-shaft and ends.
STEP 11 Continue to apply Formula 4 to the ends and Formula 3 in the mid-length. Be careful when you melt where the two shades meet, so as to not overscissor the formulas and lose the intensity of each shade. STEP 11 cont. Create another spotlight effect. Section another triangular parting and continue the same application technique working up the entire back section. You should end with a final triangle right over the crown area. COMPLETED BACK STEP 12 Move to the front side. The side sections will mimic the back application technique. STEP 13 The sectioning on the sides should come to parietal ridge or just above the temple. Continue applying Formulas 3 and 4 along with the spotlight effects. STEP 14 Move to the top of the head; work from the crown forward. Apply the formulas following the same technique, working in triangular sections creating spotlight effects. Process for 20 minutes. Rinse with cool water until water runs clear. Shampoo with Defy Damage Protective Shampoo. Follow with Defy Damage ProSeries 2; rinse and style as desired.