learn. share. LAYERED STAR PICK-ME-UP Sexy, fun, super inspiring, crazy easy, and always gorgeous. Meet the hottest hook-up to hit the hair scene: the Layered Star Cut and Pick-Me-Up Color Technique the creation of stylist extraordinaire, Richard Mannah, and star colorist, Larisa Love. Brilliantly designed for speed, ease, instant wow-factor, and loads of creative freedom, this stylist-tested, client-adored combo turns out gorgeous, one-of-a-kind looks on the spot, on every hair type, with minimal effort, in record time! Just raise or lower your elevation a bit, switch out a shade or two, and watch hair take on a whole new personality. Darker, lighter, cooler, warmer, sexier, edgier, or more sophisticated it s all up to you and the person sitting in your chair! LARISA LOVE As a salon owner and stylist, I know the struggle of the juggle. On those days where I have several color clients booked for the same time slot, this all-in-one-service technique saves the day (literally)! My salon-perfected strategy for success, Pick-Me-Up works quickly and easily to deliver a stunning transformation your clients will love. The best part: You can customize it as much as you want, changing up the color placement and tones to complement every client. @Larisadoll Joico Brand Ambassador RICHARD MANNAH @Richardmannah Joico International Guest Artistic Director The inspiration behind the Layered Star has really come from what s been seen in fashion but brought to life in a wearable way. I worked closely with Larisa to create a cut which would complement the color and versality. The technique is simple but one which could be utilized on stage or in the salon for everyday clients. I believe the Layered Star will be a technique that will stand the test of time. This hair cut is versatile and can be incorporated on different lengths from medium to long hair. The sectioning and the finish of this look is key to create the seamless results on the Layered Star.
LAYERED STAR SECTIONING STEP 1 Section hair from the back of the crown to the top of each ear. NOTE: This is adjustable to the individual head shape and where the crown falls. STEP 2 From the same point of the crown, take another section that extends from the crown to the corner of the brow on either side. It s important that the section is perfectly balanced. STEP 3 Twist and clip the remaining hair on top. HAIRCUT STEP 4 Take a 1-inch vertical section in the back. Comb each side away for maximum control. STEP 5 Begin working, pivoting radial sections from 90 degrees to overdirection. For more layering and added texture, cut this section with a lower elevation. For longer/softer layers, cut this section longer with higher elevation. STEP 6 Point cut each section for a more textured and natural outcome.
STEP 7 Continue this technique on both sides by pulling the vertical section 90 degrees to overdirection. Keep each section no wider than one-inch to avoid losing your guide. STEP 8 Working from pivoting radial at the center crown, take diagonal-vertical sections. Continue to cut each vertical section in the same manner (at 90 degrees to overdirection), and point cut in a line from shorter to longer. NOTE: This is a traveling, not stationary, guide. STEP 9 Continue working in the same manner until the back section is complete. When you get to the last section (just behind the ear), remember to overdirect to the previous guide to maintain length behind the ear. Repeat on the opposite side to complete the back section. STEP 10 Check your work as you execute the cut through each section. To do this in the back, take two fine pieces of hair from the same point on each side, pull directly out (toward you), and check for balance and precision. Do this throughout the back to ensure each side is the same length. STEP 11 Before cutting the sides, take a oneinch section from the back as a guide for both sides. STEP 12 To maintain control and not disrupt the back section, clip the back off and out of the way. STEP 13 Take a diagonal-forward section and overdirect back to the stationary guideline; this creates layering and face-framing at the same time.
STEP 14 Continue working in diagonal-forward sections until all the hair has been overdirected to the stationary guideline (by point cutting each section). STEP 15 Repeat on the opposite side. STEP 16 Check for balance on each side by picking up two pieces of hair from the same point on each side. STEP 17 Move to the last section, the top triangle. Take a one-inch center vertical section to add the guideline. STEP 18 Take a piece of hair from the center crown and use this as a guide for the top section. Cut this section from short to long; this will be disconnected from the front side sections. STEP 19 Use pivoting section from the crown and follow the guide from short to long. This can be overdirected to the center or to the previous section for more length. STEP 20 Using the center section as a stationary guide, take pivoting diagonal-forward sections from the crown forward and cut from short to long in the top triangle. Remember to continue point cutting. Keep all sections clean and use medium tension for precise cutting.
NOTE This top section is cut from short to long. Determine the amount of texture/ layering that is desired by conducting a full consultation and analysis of the hair with the client prior to cutting. If you decide to change this angle, always take into consideration the density and natural fall of the hair and customize appropriately. STEP 21 Continue to cut the top section using the center section as the original guide. Maintain the short to long cut and use point cutting. STEP 22 Repeat on the opposite side. STEP 23 Cross-check your work on the top triangle for balance. When the entire section is pulled vertically, there should be a straight or inverted horizontal line depending on your overdirection. STEP 24 Comb all hair down. Cut the baseline square to the desired length. Continue to point cut to create softness around the perimeter. STEP 25 Take a triangle section; the width of this section will depend on the density of the hair. STEP 26 This is a long, layered fringe, but it can be adjusted to suit the individual client and desired end result. Cut the first section slightly rounder for a softer, shorter fringe. Continue taking diagonal-forward sections and cut squarer to create a slightly off-set length. Before cutting, test and see where you want the length to sit. It s always safer to keep it slightly longer when cutting the fringe wet.
STEP 27 Continue to cut the fringe section by section following a traveling, diagonal guide. STEP 28 Once the layering and initial fringe is cut, pull the entire fringe section down toward the front and point cut the ends; this will soften the shape and make the fringe blend into the rest of the haircut perfectly. PICK-ME-UP TECHNIQUE FORMULAS FORMULA 1: Blonde Life Crème Lightener with 10 (3%) Volume LumiShine Developer working up to 30 (9%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 2: Joico FreePlay Clay Lightener with 40 (12%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 3: (Teardrop shadow base):lumishine Demi-Permanent Liquid ½ part 6NA + ¼ part 7SB+ ¼ part 6N with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 4: (Gloss for mid-length to ends): LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 2 parts 9SB + 1 part 9NA + ½ part 8N + ½ part 7V with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer ALTERNATE FORMULAS: LUMISHINE FORMULA 1: Blonde Life Crème Lightener with 10 (3%) Volume LumiShine Developer working up to 30 (9%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 2: Joico FreePlay Clay Lightener with 40 (12%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 3: (Teardrop shadow base): LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 8NW with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 4: (Gloss for mid-length to ends) LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 10NW with 5 (1.5%) Volume LumiShine Developer ALTERNATE FORMULAS: VERO K-PAK FORMULA 1: VeroLight Lightening Powder with 10 (3%) Volume Veroxide working up to 30 (9%) Volume Veroxide FORMULA 2: Joico FreePlay Clay Lightener with 40 (12%) Volume LumiShine Developer FORMULA 3: (Teardrop shadow base): Vero K-PAK Chrome N8 + B7 equal parts with Chrome Activator FORMULA 4: (Gloss for mid-length to ends): Vero K-PAK Chrome 1 part B9 + ½ part Clear with Chrome Activator hair
DEFY DAMAGE PROSERIES 1 Holding can in a downward angle, apply in short bursts to dry hair prior to chemical service. SHAKE CAN VIGOROUSLY. Apply starting at the back of the head, spraying onto horizontal sections, two inches apart. Continue this application method until all sections have been treated. If you have sections of hair that are more damaged than others, you may reapply ProSeries 1 to those areas for added protection. Comb through hair to ensure complete, even coverage. Perform color or lightening service as usual and according to manufacturer s directions. Once the color or lightening process is complete, rinse or shampoo hair (depending on manufacturer s directions), then follow with Defy Damage ProSeries 2. DEFY DAMAGE PROSERIES 2 Apply ProSeries 2 to damp hair. Leave in for 5 minutes. Rinse. Defy Damage ProSeries 1 Perform Color or Lightening Service Rinse or Shampoo as instructed Apply Defy Damage ProSeries 2. Leave in hair for 5 minutes. Rinse. BEFORE SECTIONING Begin with hair parted from the center crown to the front hairline Part from top of crown to top corner of ears. Adjust according to individual crown location. TIP: Lightly braid each section for control. STEP 1 Start by taking a weave parting right at the hairline, against the skin, and apply Formula 1 from roots to ends. STEP 2 Take a diagonal back slice, weave out highlights, then apply Formula 1
STEP 3 Move toward the center top of the hairline. Take a diagonal-vertical weave parting and apply Formula 1. TIP: Taking a parting at the hairline will customize the color and bring light to the face. STEP 4 Continue working diagonally up toward the center part taking weave partings painted with Formula 1. STEP 5 Continue working in this manner for approximately 5 additional weave partings. As you work your way back, take larger weave partings and don t bring the lightener up as far; this will concentrate the brightness around the face. STEP 6 Move to the opposite side and repeat the process. Start with Formula 1 around the face before shifting to Formula 4 midway up (or approximately five foils in). TIP: To keep your work consistent from one side to the other, make sure to stand in front of your client and use the weave partings on the opposite side as your guide. STEP 7 Now it s time to freehand paint or balayage the ends and hair left out of foil. Begin working around the face using Formula 2. When working around the face, bring hair Formula 5 up higher on the section (nearer to the scalp), then bring it down lower on the section as you move toward the back. This will keep things bright around the face while creating more depth and dimension in the back. STEP 8 Continue applying Formula 2 in a balayage/ freehand painting method until all the hair between the foils has been lightened. TIP: Apply lightener to the back of your glove to better assess the consistency and ensure it goes evenly onto the brush. STEP 9 Now move to the section in the back. From just above the ear to the center back, take a V-shaped parting.
STEP 10 For the first sections against the nape, be sure to brush your lightener, Formula 2, onto the section with the grain of the hair underneath each parting to pick up all the baby hairs at the hairline, then against the grain down the shaft for a better blend STEP 10 cont. Be sure to apply Formula 2 to both the top and bottom of the diagonal nape section. TIP: When using FreePlay, it s important to make sure you saturate the section well to achieve desired lift. STEP 11 Repeat the process on the opposite side. STEP 12 Continue working up the head taking diagonal back sections. Freehand paint from the center down, then from the center up toward the scalp. TIP: Be sure to saturate the last three inches of hair with the lightener for more brightness at the ends. STEP 13 For the last section, take an inverted triangle section and apply Formula 2 in the same balayage technique. VIEW OF FINISHED LIGHTENER APPLICATION Process until you reach your desired level of lightness. Rinse hair thoroughly, then shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy. STEP 14 Now it s time to gloss! Apply Formula 3 in a teardrop application, shorter in the front to deeper in the back. TIP: LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid Color has the optimal viscosity for either a bowl and brush or bottle application.
STEP 15 Next, apply Formula 4 to the mid-length and ends from the teardrop section down. Scissor the point where the two formulas meet to create a seamless color blend. TIP: To achieve a natural-looking, gradual blend for your shadow root, bring the teardrop formula down lower in the back and higher in the front. Process for 20 minutes, rinse hair thoroughly, then shampoo with Defy Damage Protective Shampoo. Follow with the Defy Damage ProSeries 2 for ultimate bond regeneration and damage prevention. Style as desired. FINAL RESULT
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