47 P a g e Module 4: Understanding Foundations and Corrections
4.1 Introduction Choosing both the colour and texture of a foundation is very important in order to achieve a good finish. The correct colour is one that is closest to your skin tone, which is applied in one coat on your face. The foundation tone you use should not be darker than the natural skin tone of your face. The ideal area to test the colour is on the jaw line where it meets your neck. For corrections, choose a medium or slightly darker tone than the skin tone and also another, one shade lighter than your skin tone, to correct places like dark circles. There are green correctors which are used to cover redness and pimples. These are applied on the red areas before foundation. Correct skin blemishes Instructions You ll need: Concealer in various textures and tones. Firstly, look at the face. Locate the skin imperfections and note the skin tones. Using circular movements and a synthetic brush, apply a concealer which is one tone lighter than the natural skin tone. Blend this in well. It helps to also use your fingers as the warmth distributes the product well. Using green concealer, cover all pimples, irritations and areas of redness. The nostrils usually become red, so neutralise the colour here with green concealer. If you find dark spots caused by too much sun, cover these with a pink concealer. After you ve done the corrections, apply a foundation base similar to the natural skin tone with a brush. This unifies the colour. To finish, mattify with a powder puff and translucent loose powder. FOUNDATIONS AND CORRECTIONS Instructions Firstly, apply a moisturiser. A latex sponge is a helpful way to apply it. Start from the centre of the forehead towards the outside and from the nose to the cheeks and chin. Use your fingers to help it penetrate into the skin. 48 P a g e
On this model, we ll use fluid foundation as she has normal skin. To apply the foundation we ll use a synthetic brush and a triangular latex sponge. With foundation on the tip, apply the make up from the centre of the forehead to the sides and from the nose to the cheeks and with the sponge help it penetrate into the skin. We continue making up the chin, blending into the neck and repeat on the other side of the face. We apply the foundation base to the eyelids with a brush and blend out with a sponge. To give the finishing touches, unify by using a sponge all over the face. Next, we need concealer and a synthetic brush. Dip the brush in the concealer and apply it directly on the crease of the eye and blend out with your fingers or a sponge to the temple. Repeat on the other side. We use translucent powder to set the make up, applied with a large brush or a powder puff. Brush the powder all over the face and neck, including the eyelids. With the puff, pat the powder on the face. We ll use a pressed powder, a shade darker than the models face to make dark corrections. To do this, we use a beveled brush. Our model has an oval face, so these are the corrections we ll do: Mark below the cheekbone and from the eyecup to the mouth to enhance the cheekbone. Repeat on the other side. To define the jaw, apply a darker shade from the edge of the chin to the neck. With the same compact powder and a filbert brush, we ll apply corrections to refine the nose. Make a thin, dark line along the sides of the septum and blend out towards the eye. Repeat on the other side. Finally, we apply blusher with a large brush. On our model, we re using a pink shade. The blush should be applied on the cheekbone. Feel it with your fingers so you know exactly where to apply. Start off gently so you don t overdo it, from the centre to the ear. 4.2 Types of textures Tinted Moisturisers These are light creams with a touch of makeup. Ideal for normal, clear skin and day time make up. Not suitable for oily skin. 49 P a g e
Fluid This type of texture is recommended for normal skin. As well as providing colour, it nourishes the skin. We recommend doing corrections in this texture to avoid product build up in the creases around the eyes. You can apply this foundation with your fingers, gently pat with a latex sponge or with a medium synthetic brush. Cream This texture is denser and more opaque, suitable for evening or party make up and for mixed skin with imperfections. You can apply with a slightly damp latex sponge. You ll also find blushers and eye shadows in this texture. 50 P a g e
Powder This is often used on oily skins and to perfect the finish on mixed skins by blending into the T zone area. Powders come in various formats - compact and loose. They can be used as foundation, as blusher or for dark corrections. There are also light colours for those with paler complexions, for the temples or around the base of the eyelid. Apply with a round brush or a puff. Translucent powders do not provide colour and are ideal for any skin tone. 51 P a g e
How to choose a foundation Instructions Types of foundations: Tinted moisturisers Fluid foundation Foundation in a stick or cream Compact powder To choose the tone of the foundation, you need to look closely at the face. Choose a tone most similar to the natural skin tone. Do a colour test on the jaw by applying a little foundation with a latex sponge. If the result looks natural, this is the correct foundation tone. Tinted moisturisers are fluid foundations which are appropriate for both day time and evening make up. Apply with a latex sponge or foundation brush. These are ideal for skin which has few blemishes as they don t provide heavy coverage. If the tone is well chosen, they can look very natural. Cream foundations are also fluid but with a denser texture and more oil. They give greater coverage to camouflage imperfections and provide more oil for the skin. They are recommended for dry and mature skin and not recommended for skin with acne. Compact powders mattify skin which is shiny due to excess oil. They are also used to cover shine for photo and video sessions. They are recommended for oily skin and inadvisable for dry and mature skin. They are applied with a powder puff or brush. Exercises 52 P a g e
Exercise 1 If either your foundation or concealer is more than a year old, it s best to invest in new ones. They don t maintain perfect texture over time. Once you have identified your skin type, you ll know which new foundation products to choose, both in colour and texture. You need 3 tones. Apply the base colour first with a tone that most closely matches your skin color. Apply a slightly lighter colour, to act as a concealer, to the area around the eye, blending in with the base foundation. If the difference in shade is too obvious, your concealer is too light. Apply the darker tone on your cheekbones. Again this needs to blend well with the base. If the difference is noticeable, your tone is too dark. Exercise 2 Test which kind of blush works best for you. With a sponge or fingers, apply a textured cream blush on one side of your face and apply powder on the other. Wait 20 minutes. Check which colour and texture looks better. Is the cream blush too bright? Does the powdered one leave wrinkles or cracks? You ll need to keep trying until you find one that works perfectly for you. Exercise 3 For a natural makeup look, suitable for daytime, take some of your moisturiser and place it in a plastic cosmetic jar. Add some liquid foundation a half tone lighter than your complexion and stir with a spatula. Apply on the face. You'll see how this achieves natural, discreet coverage. Exercise 4: Looking in the mirror, notice any areas of your face that are shiny. Using a soft brush, apply a matte powder on these areas. Use a light layer where the shine is mild and use heavier where your complexion is oily. Exercise 5: In front of the mirror, take a powder and a darker base foundation to make corrections. In the middle area of the face, apply darker correction liquid and blend in with a sponge. To the rest of the face, apply darker correction powder with a brush. You ll need to experiment with applying to see which texture works best for you. 53 P a g e