Guideline Formulations. 2018 Formulations Booklet
Beauty Made Possible.
»There is a road from the eye to the heart that does not go through the intellect.«around the world, notions of beauty are as colorful as the people who pursue them. There is certainly more than just one kind of beauty, and everybody has their own idea of what beauty involves. Although personal definitions may differ, one aspect remains the same: everyone wants to be beautiful in some way. And that s what Baycusan is all about enabling individual beauty through your products. Baycusan is your key ingredient for creating products that enable people to be as beautiful as they would like to be. We are passionate about inventing products for you and together with you that expand the possibilities for being beautiful. We like to keep raising the bar, re-inventing and perfecting, so that in the end it s not just products but Beauty Made Possible. Formulations Guidelines SunCare Ocean-friendly Sunscreen SPF 30 (expected) Sport Sunscreen SPF 30 UV & Pollution Shield Face Mist SPF 30 SkinCare Mud Peel-off Mask Black Peel-off Mask Smoothing Peel-off Mask ColorCosmetics Cushion Eyebrow Liner Peelable Water-based Nail Polish HairCare Waterproof Styling Gel Hair & Beard Styling Cream Strong hold Styling Gel Style & Care Leave-in Spray Hair Control Rinse-off Conditioner 06 08 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SunCare Covestro s water-based film formers set new benchmarks in sun care with outstanding results for long-lasting and convenient sun protection every day. Our water-based film former Baycusan C 1004 enables high-quality emulsions to be formulated with excellent water resistance and sand-repelling properties. These formulations are easy to apply, fast-absorbing and feel pleasant on the skin for delicate skin that is ready to enjoy sun, sand and sea all day long. Our water-based film former Baycusan C 1000 enables face sunscreens to be created with the lowest levels of potential skin irritants, such as UV filters and emulsifiers, while simultaneously maintaining a high level of protection and water resistance. Covestro film formers also help to avoid skin and eye irritation by reducing UV filter migration for well-protected skin every day. Our ethanol-based film former Baycusan C 2000 enables advanced formulations of transparent sport sun care products offering high UV protection, excellent saltwater and sweat resistance, a dry-touch feeling, and a clear application even on wet skin for invisible and convenient protection. SunCare Ocean-friendly Sunscreen SPF 30 (expected) SunCare Sport Sunscreen SPF 30 SunCare UV & Pollution Shield Face Mist SPF 30 6
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SunCare Ocean-friendly Sunscreen SPF 30 Because your skin and the environment deserve nothing but the best. Key benefits: Biodegradable formula* Reduced UV filter migration Water resistance High protection (SPF boosting) Formulation: RR 8162 Phase Ingredient % by wt. Aqua 42.45 EDTA 0.05 A Glycerin 3.00 Propylene glycol 5.00 Dehydroxanthan gum 0.50 Methylpropanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) phenylpropanol 1 3.50 Simmondsia chinensis seed oil 5.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 8.00 Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.50 B Homosalate 9.50 Ethylhexyl salicylate 4.50 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 3.00 8
Phase Ingredient % by wt. Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 2.50 B Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.50 Glyceryl stearate 1.00 Alcohol denat. 2.00 Baycusan C 1000/1 6.00 C Tocopherol acetate 0.20 Panthenol 0.50 Fragrance 0.30 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Dermosoft OMP, Dr. Straetmans. Processing: Add all ingredients of phase A to a vessel while stirring and heating to 75 C until uniform. Heat phase B to 80 C and mix until uniform. Transfer phase B to phase A under stirring. Homogenize. Start to cool down while mixing continuously. Below 30 C check ph. If necessary adjust ph to 6.5 7.0 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). Add phase C and check ph again. If necessary adjust ph to 6.5 7.0 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). Mix to room temperature until uniform. Notes: In vivo SPF (International Norm ISO 24444:2010 on 5 volunteers) = 37.1. Water-resistant formulation (Colipa Guidelines, December, 2005 on 5 volunteers). In vitro UVA-PF (with pre-irradation ISO 24443 Method) = 8.6. * Ingredients were selected according to biodegradability data shared by the respective suppliers.
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SunCare Sport Sunscreen SPF 30 Easy application on wet skin. Key benefits: (Sea) water-resistant Sweat-resistant Wet skin application Formulation: RR 8165 Phase Ingredient % by wt. Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.00 Homosalate 7.00 Octocrylene 7.00 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2.00 A Ethylhexyl salicylate 5.00 Butylene glycol 2.50 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.38 Dicaprylyl carbonate 1 5.84 Tridecyl salicylate 2 2.92 Cyclopentasiloxane 1.46 B Caprylyl methicone 3 1.46 Baycusan C 2000 4.88 Alcohol denat. 51.56 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Cetiol CC, BASF. 2 Cosmacol ESI, Sasol. 3 Silsoft 034, momentive. Processing: Heat phase A to 80 C while stirring. In a separate vessel, mix phase B. Add phase B to phase A while stirring, at 40 C. Start to cool down to room temperature while stirring. Notes: In vivo SPF (International Norm ISO 24444:2010 on 5 volunteers) = 35. Water-resistant formulation (Colipa Guidelines, December, 2005 on 5 volunteers). In vitro UVA-PF (with pre-irridiation ISO 24443 method) = 18.7. 10
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SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SunCare UV & Pollution Shield Face Mist SPF 30 Combining protection against UV and air pollutants. Key benefits: Water-resistant Sweat-resistant High protection (SPF boosting) Protection against air pollutants Non-sticky High UVA protection Formulation: RR 8149 Phase Ingredient % by wt. Aqua 33.20 Xanthan gum 0.15 A Disodium EDTA 0.05 Glycerin 2.00 Propylene glycol 1.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 12.00 Isodecyl neopentanoate 1 5.00 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5.00 Octocrylene 9.50 B Ethylhexyl triazone 2.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.00 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 0.50 Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride 2 1.00 Polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate 3 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 12
Phase C D Ingredient % by wt. Methylpropanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) phenylpropanol4 1.50 Alcohol denat. 12.00 Dimethicone 2.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.50 Fragrance 0.10 Baycusan C 1004/1 5.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Schercemol 105 Ester, Lubrizol. 2 Oxynex ST Liquid, Merck. 3 Tego Care PBS 6, Evonik. 4 Dermosoft OMP, Evonik. Processing: Add all ingredients of phase A to a separate vessel while stirring, at 40 C. Combine phase B in a separate vessel under stirring and heat to 80 C. Add phase A to phase B while mixing continuously. Cool phase A/B below 40 C. Add phase C and homogenize strongly for 3 min. Add phase D into remaining phase and mix smoothly, avoid strong homogenization. Check ph. If necessary, adjust ph to 6.5 7.0 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). Notes: In vivo SPF (ISO 24444: 2010 method on 5 volunteers) = 36.0 In vitro UVA-PF (with pre-irradiation ISO 24443 method) = 14.4 13
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SkinCare Covestro film formers set new benchmarks in skin care with outstanding peel-off, conditioning and treatment properties for young-looking & well-protected skin every day. Baycusan C 1000 not only improves the efficacy of moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, whitening and anti-acne agents, it also delivers good water resistance, boosts sun protection, and reduces UV filter migration across the skin surface. Baycusan C 1004 enables formulation of gentle wet peel-off masks. It forms a flexible and breathable film that is not only comfortable to wear but also easy and painless to peel off. After removal of the soft veil-like film, the only thing left is velvety smooth skin. It also forms a protective film on the skin while preventing skin damage from external aggressors by acting as a barrier to pollutants. SkinCare Mud Peel-off Mask SkinCare Black Peel-off Mask SkinCare Smoothing Peel-off Mask 14
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SkinCare Mud Peel-off Mask For purified and perfect skin. Key benefits: Easy peel-off after applying water Fast drying (10 min) Good rub-off resistance Facilitates longer-lasting retention of active ingredients on the surface of the skin Increases efficacy of active ingredients High degree of wear comfort Velvety smooth skin 16
Formulation: RR 8153 Phase Ingredient % by wt. A Aqua 46.80 Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 1 0.40 B Hydroxyethylmethylcellulose 2 0.50 C PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 3 1.00 Dipropylene glycol 7.00 D Ethanol 5.00 1,2-Hexanediol 1.00 Kaolin 10.00 E Triethanolamine 2.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) ethlhexylglycerin 4 0.80 Baycusan C 1004/1 25.00 Raw materials: 1 Carbopol Ultrez 21, Lubrizol. 2 Natrosol 250 HR/HHR hydroxyethylcellulose, Ashland. 3 Sepigel 305, Seppic. 4 Euxyl PE9010, Schülke & Mayr. Processing: Combine phase A while stirring at room temperature and stir for 20 minutes. Heat up to 60 C. Add phase B while stirring continuously until completely dissolved. Add phase C while stirring. Cool down to 45 C. In a separate vessel, combine phase D. Add phase D to phase A/B/C and homogenize for 5 minutes until uniform. Add phase E while mixing continuously. 17
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SkinCare Black Peel-off Mask Leaves behind the traces of a stressful day. Key benefits: Easy peel-off after applying water Fast drying (10 min) Good rub-off resistance Facilitates longer-lasting retention of active ingredients on the surface of the skin Increases efficacy of active ingredients High degree of wear comfort Velvety smooth skin Formulation: RR 8155 Phase Ingredient % by wt. A Aqua 66.60 Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7 1 2.10 Alcohol denat. 5.00 B 1,2-Hexanediol 1.00 Dipropylene glycol 5.00 C D PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.50 Carbon black 2.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) ethlhexylglycerin 2 0.80 Baycusan C1004/1 17.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Sepigel 305, Seppic. 2 Euxyl PE 9010, Schülke & Mayr. Processing: Prepare the water phase by adding phase A ingredients while mixing. Add phase B ingredients into a separate vessel under agitation until uniform. Add phase C ingredients one by one to phase B while mixing. Add the mixture into phase A and homogenize 15min. Add phase D into the system and mix until uniform. 18
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SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare SkinCare Smoothing Peel-off Mask Gentle skin care. Key Benefits: Easy & gentle peel-off Fast drying (10 min) Facilitates longer-lasting retention of active ingredients on the surface of the skin Increases efficacy of active ingredients High degree of wear comfort Velvety smooth skin
Formulation: RR 8154 Phase Ingredient % by wt. Aqua 73.70 A Hydroxyethylcellulose 1 0.10 Polyvinylalcohol 8.00 Alcohol denat. 2.00 B Dipropylene glycol 5.00 1,2-Hexanediol 1.00 Xanthan gum 2 0.20 C Baycusan C 1004/1 10.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Natrosol TM 259 HR/HHR, Ashland. 2 Keltrol CG-T, CP Kelco. Processing: Stir phase A at 65 C. When hydroxyethylcellulose and polyvinylalcohol are dissolved completely, cool down at room temperature. Then add ingredients of phase B, and stir well. Add phase C, and stir well. 21
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare ColorCosmetics Covestro film formers set new benchmarks in make-up performance with excellent long-lasting properties for flawless make-up every day. Baycusan C 1004 exhibits excellent water, sweat and rub-off resistance properties. Moreover it acts as a shielding barrier that can block air pollutants and keeps make-up on the skin all day long for natural-looking make-up day after day. It also forms a smooth film that enables even color distribution with excellent non-transfer and long-lasting properties for well-defined lines that really last. With our water-based film former you can also create environment-friendly nail polish formulations that are easy to peel off, odorless and have good color payoff for a safe and sustainable way to have perfectly polished nails. ColorCosmetics Cushion Eyebrow Liner ColorCosmetics Peelable Water-based Nail Polish 22
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare ColorCosmetics Cushion Eyebrow Liner Well defined lines that really last. Key benefits: Sweat & water-resistant Rub-off resistant Non-transfer Color coverage 24
Formulation: RR 8161 Phase Ingredient % by wt. A Aqua 62.20 Xanthan gum 0.50 Microcrystalline cellulose (and) algin 1 0.30 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) iron oxides 2 5.80 B Synthetic fluorphlogopite (and) iron oxides 3 4.20 Sorbitan laurate (and) polyglyceryl-4 laurate (and) dilauryl citrate 4 1.50 Propylene glycol 2.00 Methylpropanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) phenylpropanol 5 3.50 C Baycusan C 1004/1 20.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Avicel PC 815, FMC Health and Nutrition. 2 SynCrystal Soft Black, Eckart. 3 SynCrystal Soft Bronze, Eckart. 4 Tego Care LTP, Evonik. 5 Dermosoft OMP, Evonik. Processing: Add all ingredients of phase A to a vessel while stirring at room temperature. When uniform, add phase B. Homogenize for 5 min. Add phase C while stirring. Check ph. If necessary, adjust with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.) or citric acid (10% sol.) to ph= 6.9 7.2. 25
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare ColorCosmetics Peelable Water-based Nail Polish The sustainable way to perfectly polished nails. Key benefits: Easy to apply Color coverage Easy to remove 26
Formulation: RR 8151 Phase Ingredient % by wt. A Baycusan C 1004/1 97.80 Acrylates copolymer 1 0.50 B CI 124902 2 1.00 Panthenol 0.10 C Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin 0.50 Fragrance 0.10 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Kleasol TST, Rheolab. 2 Cosmenyl Red BLS gran Pigment Red 5, Clariant Processing: Disperse phase A at room temperature. Check ph. If necessary adjust ph to 6.5 7.0 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). Add phase B to phase A while stirring. Mix at room temperature for 1 hour until uniform. Add phase C step by step and stir for 15 minutes. 27
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare HairCare Covestro film formers set new benchmarks in hair care with outstanding properties in protection, repair and style for beautiful hair, every day. Baycusan C 1010 enables advanced hair styling formulations that combine a strong hold with a natural & non-tacky feel. The outcome? Long-lasting, high humidity resistance and superior style retention with excellent sensory properties in all kinds of climates for natural and strong hold every day. Protect your style with Covestro s multifunctional film former Baycusan C 1008. It offers water and wash resistance resistance properties to styling formulations and protects hair from heat by shielding it against temperatures of up to 270 C! At the same time, it provides flexible hold and a perfect finish on dry hair. Last but not least, Baycusan C 1008 prevents frizz and creates smooth, well-defined strands. When used in a rinse-off conditioner, Baycusan C 1008 begins your hairstyle in the shower for well-protected and manageable hair all day long, and beyond! HairCare Waterproof Styling Gel HairCare Hair & Beard Styling Cream HairCare Strong hold Styling Gel HairCare Style & Care Leave-in Spray HairCare Hair Control Rinse-off Conditioner 28
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare HairCare Waterproof Styling Gel A style that survives water! Key benefits: Flexible hold Durable style Wash-resistant up to two shampoos Waterproof High humidity resistance Non-sticky Formulation: RR 8166 Phase Ingredient % by wt. Aqua 86.70 Disodium EDTA 0.50 A Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 1 0.30 Butylene glycol 0.25 Acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer 2 3.00 B Aminomethyl propanol 0.50 Baycusan C 1008/1 6.00 C Alcohol denat. 2.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexyl glycerin 3 0.75 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Carbopol Ultrez 21, Lubrizol. 2 AculynTM 22, Dow. 3 Euxyl PE 9010, Schülke & Mayr. Processing: Add aqua to vessel. Add disodium EDTA with moderate propeller mixing. Add remaining phase A ingredients. Mix well. Neutralize batch with phase B. Mix well. Add phase C ingredients. Mix well. Check ph. If necessary, adjust ph to 6.0 7.0 with aminomethyl propanol. 30
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SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare HairCare Hair & Beard Styling Cream Total hair control. Key benefits: Flexible & natural hold Defined hairstyle High humidity resistance Smooth & non-sticky 32
Formulation: RR 8164 Phase Ingredient % by wt. Aqua 75.95 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Propylene glycol 2.00 A Glycerin 2.00 Sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyltaurate/dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer 1 1.50 PVP 2 1.50 B Hydroxyethylcellulose 3 0.30 Methylpropanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) phenylpropanol 4 3.50 C Alcohol denat. 8.00 Bisabolol 0.20 Baycusan C 1010 5.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Sepinov P88, Seppic. 2 PVP K-90, Ashland. 3 Tylose H 100070 NP2, Shin Etsu. 4 Dermosoft OMP, Dr. Straetmans. Processing: Combine phase A and mix. Start to heat to 75 C. Add phase B and mix until it is homogenous. Start to cool down. At 30 C add phase C while stirring. Check ph. If necessary, adjust ph to 6.5 7.0 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). 33
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare HairCare Strong hold Styling Gel The sustainable way to style your hair. Key benefits: Strong hold Non-tacky No flaking Formulation: RR 8167 Phase Ingredient % by wt. A Aqua 88.00 Methylpropanediol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) phenylpropanol 1 3.50 B Dehydroxanthan gum 1.25 Sorbitol 1.50 C Panthenol 0.50 Fragrance 0.15 Bambusa vulgaris 0.10 D Bayucsan C 1010 5.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Dermosoft OMP, Dr. Straetmans. Processing: Add phase A in a vessel while stirring continuously. Add phase B and mix until dissolved. Add phase C to the batch while stirring. Check ph. If necessary, adjust ph to 5.5 6.0 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). Add phase D and mix until homogenous. Check ph again. If necessary, adjust ph to 5.5 6.0 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). Stir until uniform. 34
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare HairCare Style & Care Leave-in Spray High nutrition with style definition. Key benefits: Strong hold Non-tacky No flaking Formulation: RR 8159 Phase Ingredient % by wt. A Aqua 88.59 B Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 1 0.20 C Sodium hydroxide (10% sol.) 0.01 Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil 1.00 D Panthenol 1.00 Glycerin 0.20 Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin 2 1.00 E Polyquaternium-39 3 2.00 Baycusan C 1010 6.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Pemulen TR-2, Lubrizol. 2 Euxyl PE 9010, Schuelke & Mayr. 3 Merquat 3330 PR Polymer, Lubrizol. Processing: Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring until homogenous. Adjust with phase C to ph 5.3. Add ingredients of phase D and E while mixing until uniform. Check ph. If necessary, adjust ph to 5.3 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). 36
SunCare SkinCare ColorCosmetics HairCare HairCare Hair Control Rinse-off Conditioner For manageable & healthy hair. Key benefits: Flexible & natural style Manageable & smooth hair Formulation: RR 8158 Phase Ingredient % by wt. A Aqua 35.20 Glycerin 5.00 Behentrimonium chloride 2.00 B Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil 5.00 Cetearyl alcohol 4.00 C Aqua 20.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin 1 0.80 Aqua 20.00 D Polyquaternium-39 2 0.75 Baycusan C 1008/1 2.25 E Dimethicone 5.00 100.00 Raw materials: 1 Euxyl PE 9010, Schuelke & Mayr. 2 Merquat 3330 PR Polymer, Lubrizol. Processing: Add phase A under stirring in a vessel. Start heating to 80 C. Add ingredients of phase B. At 80 C homogenize. Mix until uniform. Start to cool down to room temperature. Add phase C and mix well. Check ph below 40 C. If necessary, adjust ph to 5.3 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). Add the premix of phase D and mix well. Add phase E and stir until uniform. Check ph. If necessary, readjust ph to 5.3 with sodium hydroxide (10% sol.). 38
Covestro Deutschland AG Business Unit Coatings, Adhesives, Specialties D-51365 Leverkusen www.baycusan.com cosmetics@covestro.com This information and our technical advice whether verbal, in writing or by ways of trial are given in good faith but without warranty, and this also applies where proprietary rights of third parties are involved. The information is provided by Covestro without assumption of any liability. If any of the above mentioned regulations change after the date of declaration, this declaration is no longer valid. Covestro will strive to keep this information up-to-date. Our advice does not release you from the obligation to verify the information provided especially that contained in our safety data and technical information sheets, to check for updates of any information provided by us and to test our products as to their suitability for the intended processes and uses. The application, use and processing of our products and the products manufactured by you on the basis of our technical advice are beyond our control and, therefore, entirely your own responsibility. Our products are sold in accordance with the current version of our General Conditions of Sale and Delivery. Edition: 2018-03 Order-No.: COV00084347 Printed in Germany