30 GOLDIE IN PHUKET GOLDIE 在布吉 THE MAN WITH THE GOLDEN GRIN 笑時露出滿嘴金牙的男子 Musician, producer, artist, actor, reality TV star, yoga addict Goldie has barely stayed still since he burst onto the music scene in the 1990s. Now he s happily settled but still not keeping still in Phuket. CATHY ADAMS meets him 身兼樂手 製作人 藝術家 演員 電視真人騷明星及瑜伽愛好者,Goldie 自 1990 年代在英國樂壇闖出名堂以來, 從未曾裹足不前 他目前在布吉島安居, 創作上仍不見半點停滯 Cathy Adams 往布吉與他暢遊兼暢談一番 PHOTOGRAPHY JASON MICHAEL LANG Eleven thirty-one in the morning, and a Filano scooter roars through the streets of Tambon Kamala in western Phuket. On it, Goldie: drum n bassed, paint-spattered, metal-head, Bjork-dating, reality TV-starring, gold-toothed Bondvillained musician, street artist, MBE. An extraordinary introduction, but this is no ordinary 52-year-old. I mean, the man s got a mouthful of metal worth a reputed HK$1 million. And his gold teeth and Goldie, artist, musician, whatever are showing me around Phuket for the day. The 52-year-old shapeshifter isn t very well known in Asia yet (yet although he did play a sell-out gig at Mavericks in Hong Kong, on Lantau Island s Pui O Beach, this spring). You might recognise him as the appropriately named Mr Bullion in the Bond film The World Is Not Enough. Over the past 30 years, he s been prefaced as a graffiti artist ( Urban art graff s a dirty word, he says mincingly), drum n bass pioneer, jungle kingpin, Gold Teeth ( They call me Fan Tong [in Thailand]. Fan Tong! ). Eight years ago, he traded the streets of London for the beaches of Phuket ( Coming to Thailand was about finding myself, about reinventing myself ). He now spends most of the year in a white, wooden-floored, Nordic-inspired three-storey house in the mountains of Kamala. The place is very Goldie: bright prints are hung around monochrome portraits of himself and his gorgeous Japanese-Canadian wife Mika; the oversized fridge is daubed with family snaps, his youngest daughter Koko s scrawl and notes; scary sculptures of gurning dragons sit beside a giant concave TV. A small, glitzy pool and lounger outside merge with mundane homey stuff: bottles of shampoo in the outdoor shower, tumblers and a drying rack with clothes crackling in the sun. It was Phuket that birthed his new album, The Journey Man, out this month. It s a tour de force that sounds hopeful, dancey and emotional all at the same time. It sounds miles apart from his first studio album, 1995 s Timeless. More than 6,000 miles different, even. A quarter of a century later, the mix of breakbeat, jungle and drum n bass of that first album still sounds so inimitably British, frozen in those 1990s days of experimental music in London. It was the early 2000s by the time I was bouncing 上午 11 時 31 分, 一輛 Filano 綿羊仔電單車在布吉西端的 Tambon Kamala 的街道上呼嘯而過 車上的是 Goldie: 人稱鼓打貝斯教父 穿著油漆斑駁的衣服 愛聽金屬音樂 曾經跟冰島歌手 Bjork 約會 電視真人騷明星 滿嘴金牙貌似鐵金剛電影中的反派, 他是一位樂手, 也是一位街頭藝術家, 更是大英帝國員佐勳章得主 這些名銜非同凡響, 而現年 52 歲的他亦確實獨特非凡 因為我聽說他擁有的金牙價值 100 萬港元 而這個滿嘴金牙的 Goldie, 不管你當他是藝術家或樂手, 要帶我在布吉消磨一整天 這位變色龍在亞洲不算出名 ( 可是今年春季他在香港大嶼山貝澳沙灘的 Mavericks 餐廳登台獻藝卻賣個滿堂紅 ) 你也可能認出他就是 新鐵金剛之黑日危機 裡那位 Bullion 先生 過去 30 年, 大家稱他為塗鴉藝術家 ( 不過他裝腔作勢地糾正我 : 那是城市藝術, 塗鴉是下流的字眼 ) 鼓打貝斯先鋒 叢林電音的中流砥柱, 以及 金牙 ( 他說 : 泰國人叫我 Fan Tong, 意思就是金牙 ) 八年前, 他離開烏煙瘴氣的倫敦街頭, 搬到陽光與海灘的布吉 ( 他說 : 來泰國是為了找回自己, 重塑自己 ) 他現在一年有大部分時間以 Kamala 山區一幢白色的北歐式房子為家, 房子樓高三層, 鋪上木地板 這間房子很有 Goldie 的個人特色 : 屋內掛著 DISCOVERY JUNE 2017
GOLDIE 在布吉 GOLDIE IN PHUKET 31
32 GOLDIE IN PHUKET GOLDIE 在布吉 Inner island life Clockwise from top left: Goldie and his wife, Mika; Goldie s music studio; dressed in Yogangster on the Filano; spray can art; portraits decorating his stairway 海島生活左上圖起順時針 :Goldie 與他的太太 Mika;Goldie 的音樂工作室 ; 身穿 Yogangster 上衣坐在 Filano 電單車上 ; 以噴潻罐作畫 ; 掛在樓梯間的照片 DISCOVERY JUNE 2017
GOLDIE 在布吉 GOLDIE IN PHUKET 33 around cave-like clubs on Coldharbour Lane in south London s Brixton neighbourhood as a teenager. Even now, listening to Inner City Life makes me feel 19 again. On the other hand, The Journey Man is the kind of record you want to listen to with an iced Singha beer in your hand at a beach bar. The first single, I Adore You, might have been played non-stop in the UK on BBC s Radio 1 but it s as at home in Kamala as Timeless was inside the M25 motorway. Timeless was a coming-of-age album, Goldie says, drumming his yellow fingernails into his spotched wooden dining table. But this album, The Journey Man, is about new horizons, mountains. It has some really cutting-edge drum n bass on there, but it s also almost international. It s 12:25pm. We re in Goldie s basement music studio. Two rectangular speakers boom out tracks from his album. Platinum discs hang on the walls (remember when albums went platinum?). Goldie sits in his bouncy chair, playing the air like an instrument: heavy jabs on the piano, feathery licks at a guitar string, closing his eyes and curling his fingers when the voice of British singer Natalie Duncan on Mountains nudges up an octave. I m listening politely from the doorframe. In a professional-interviewer-listening-tomusic way, it s sort of erotic. Goldie is a man who can t sit still for more than a few minutes, which is why we re outside flicking through his canvasses in his studio (1:15pm). It smells strongly of paint, owing to the dozens no, hundreds of bright spray cans stacked artfully to one side. His paintsmeared Stussy t-shirt and fingernails suddenly look bohemian and edgy. I couldn t do what I do now without going through graffiti, he says. I ve been a graffiti writer for ages, but that s a dirty word. Now it s called spray can art. It makes me laugh. We were being chased 35 years ago and imprisoned for this stuff, and now The we being his crew of people with names like BG, Inky and Tracks. They re doing a takeover of two train carriages in Shoreditch, London, next month. He whirls on. I m doing a Thai ladyboy show in New York with images that we ve shot here of ladyboys, who are dressed up in punk gear. The next line is NSFW. Now he s lying on his belly clutching a yellow can as it puffs paint onto a blocky canvas. I ve got no idea what it is. Goldie s art can be anything from Thai-style goddesses to impressionistic pieces that look more Cy Twombly than Shepard Fairey. We re hungry. It s 1:45pm, lunchtime, and we re off to his favourite joint in Phuket: Nan Lanna, a northern Thai roadside shack in the middle of the island. It s Goldie s fourth visit that week. He orders a fancy Vimto mulberry cordial and soda water and bowls of khao soi gai, the fried noodle speciality from Chiang Mai, before dousing it in lime juice. Lanna sausage, jungle curry and kaeng hang le, northern stewed pork soon appear: It s probably the best thing I ve ever tasted. It s soul food. Quite. It s 3:10pm, and we re back at Goldie s party palace. Phuket is nothing like Hong Kong, I say. Yeah, Goldie agrees. But you ve got a Marks & Spencer! But we ve got a Makro like an Asian Costco. And there you can buy tons of water, loads of cheese, toilet paper, all the sexy stuff. There s such a realism living here. You re kind of stacked in Hong Kong. It s a very Batman Gotham sense. And you can get super ultra rich. But in Phuket it s more linear and spaced out. PHUKET IS NOTHING LIKE HONG KONG, I SAY. YEAH, GOLDIE AGREES. BUT YOU VE GOT A MARKS & SPENCER! 我說, 布吉跟香港完全不一樣 是的,GOLDIE 也同意 但是你們有 MARKS & SPENCER! 他和日裔加拿大籍妻子 Mika 的黑白照片, 四周配上色彩鮮明的圖畫 ; 特大冰箱外面貼著家庭生活照 最小的女兒 Koko 潦草的圖畫和字條 ; 超大型的弧形電視旁, 擺放了幾個面目猙獰扭曲的龍雕像 室外有一個小小的游泳池和一張躺椅, 四周散放了一些家庭日用品 : 戶外淋浴室內的洗頭水 玻璃水杯和一個晾衣架, 上面的衣服在陽光下曝曬 他於本月推出的最新專輯 T h e Journey Man 就是在布吉孕育出來的 這是一張充滿希望 韻律和感情的精心傑作 我聽得出這張專輯與他在 1995 年推出的第一張錄音室專輯 Timeless 曲風截然不同, 甚至可以說是南轅北轍 他的第一張專輯混合了碎拍 叢林電音和鼓打貝斯,25 年後聽起來依然充滿英 倫風情, 彷彿將時間凍結在 1990 年代, 倫敦剛出現實驗音樂不久的日子 2000 年代初, 那時我才十多歲, 喜歡在倫敦南部 Brixton 區 Coldharbour 巷內多家有如洞穴的俱樂部之間連環泡 就算現在, 每次聽到 Inner City Life 依然讓我有回到 19 歲的感覺 另一方面, The Journey Man 是那種當你坐在沙灘的酒吧裡, 一杯冰凍的 Singha 啤酒在手時想聽的專輯 第一首單曲 I Adore You 可能會在英國 BBC Radio 1 電台不停地播放, 不過在 Kamala 聽這張專輯, 與在英國 M25 公路上開車時聽 Timeless 同樣有親切感 Goldie 用染黃了的指甲一面敲打污跡斑斑的餐桌一面說 : Timeless 是一張成熟的專輯 但是 The Journey Man 這張專輯代表進入新的境界 攀上新的高峰, 裡面有些非常新穎的鼓打貝斯, 不過也相當國際化 12 點 25 分, 我們置身 Goldie 位於地下室的音樂工作室 兩個長方形喇叭箱轟出他的音樂 牆上掛著白金唱片 ( 還記得白金唱片銷量的年代嗎?) Goldie 坐在他具彈力的椅子上, 在空中比劃彈奏樂器的動作 : 一時猛敲鋼琴琴鍵 一時輕撥結他弦線, 他閉起眼睛 雙手手指緊扣, 聆聽英國歌手 Natalie Duncan 以高八度的聲音吟唱 Mountains 我在門外禮貌地傾聽 對一個專業採訪者而言, 以這種方式聆聽音樂, 我覺得自己像在偷窺 Goldie 是個無法安靜坐下來數分鐘不動的人, 所以下午 1 點 15 分我們在他的工作室翻看他的噴畫作品 我聞到很濃的油漆味, 有幾十罐 不, 數以百計的噴漆罐子整齊地堆在牆邊 他沾滿油漆的 Stussy 短袖 T 恤和指甲, 頓時散發出前衛的波希米亞風氣息 我現在的工作少不了塗鴉 我從事塗鴉已經很多年了, 不過那是下流的字眼, 現在叫做噴漆藝術 我覺得很可笑,35 年前我們在街上噴漆會被人驅趕, 甚至關進監獄, 但是現在 他口中的 我們 是一群名字叫做 BG Inky 和 Tracks 的人 下個月他們會在倫敦 Shoreditch 將兩節火車車廂改頭換面 他興高采烈地繼續說 : 我在紐約搞了一個泰國人妖騷的活動, 演出包括在這裡拍的人妖照片, 他們穿上龐克風格的服飾 接下來的話不適宜於大庭廣眾中說出來 現在他趴在地上, 拿著一罐黃色噴漆在一塊方形帆布上噴 我看不出那是什麼 Goldie 的藝術主題包羅萬有, 從泰國女神到印象派, 偏向 Cy Twombly 的抽象風格而非 Shepard Fairey 那種板畫味道 我們肚子餓了 下午 1 點 45 分是午餐時間, 我們前往他最喜歡的布吉餐廳 Nan Lanna 這是一間位於布吉中心的路邊小店, 供應泰北菜式 Goldie 這個星期已經第四次光顧這裡了 他叫了一瓶 Vimto 桑椹果汁和梳打水, 再加一碗 khao soi
34 GOLDIE IN PHUKET GOLDIE 在布吉 Goldie s paradise Find Goldie doing the triangle on Kamala Beach or playing backgammon at Bob s Bar 逍遙樂園你可以見到 Goldie 在 Kamala 海灘上做瑜伽的三角式, 或在 Bob s Bar 酒吧跟人玩百家樂棋 HE S GOING TO A YOGA CLASS THIS AFTERNOON, WHICH SHOULD INVOLVE HIM SITTING STILL FOR AT LEAST FIVE MINUTES 他下午要去上瑜伽課, 可以讓他最少有五分鐘靜止不動 I see people in the city they re miserable in London. They ve got a really beautiful car, but they re miserable. And you wave to them in the window and they lock the doors. I think that s why we live here. It s 3:20pm. Nap time. Goldie s digesting. He s going to a yoga class this afternoon, which should involve him sitting still for at least five minutes. He heads downstairs to sleep. A few minutes later, Horizons from the new album floats up the stairs and he bounds back up. He s exhausting. By 4pm he s back on the Filano and whizzing high above Kamala Beach, to a studio run by a sinewy, suntanned Australian. Goldie bounds in, dressed in his Yogangster sweatshirt (naturally), throwing a call backwards to meet him at Bob s Bar on Kamala Beach in a couple of hours. The sun starts to dip around 6pm. I m on my second Singha beer when Goldie rocks up, backgammon board in hand. He DISCOVERY JUNE 2017
GOLDIE 在布吉 GOLDIE IN PHUKET 35 plays regularly with his daughter s school teacher. But first we re doing yoga. (Didn t you know Goldie s into yoga now?) I mean thank God I drank sake last week because I did 10 days of yoga, which was killing me. I ve never done yoga, I say. Which kind? Hot yoga and vinyasa. I ve just started doing vinyasa, which is killing me. People think Bikram is hard work, and I m over it; I ve been doing it for seven years, five times a week and no problem. And so our day ends, as the sun drops into the dove-grey Andaman Sea, doing the triangle pose. Really solid, praises Goldie. Excellent. We move into the downward dog. Move your feet inwards. Keep your legs straight. I do, although I think something snaps. Needs work. Yeah, yeah. We leave Goldie studiously playing backgammon with the lilt of reggae tunes floating in the background. I ve got some more adjectives to add to the list: downward-dogging, sake-drinking, khao soi-snarfing, Phuket-living graff artist, bohemian, urban creative and the most consuming man I ve ever met. gai, 也就是清邁特色食品咖喱雞麵, 他在麵裡加入大量青檸汁 接著店家端來 Lanna 香腸 叢林咖喱和 kaeng hang le 泰北炆豬肉, 這大概是我嚐過最美味的食物, 是一種撫慰心靈的食物 完全同意 下午 3 點 10 分, 回到 Goldie 的家, 他的派對宮殿 我跟他說, 布吉跟香港完全不一樣 對! Goldie 同意, 但是你們有 Marks & Spencer! 而我們有 Makro, 那就像亞洲的 Costco, 可以買大量瓶裝水 各式各樣的芝士 廁紙等好東西 住在這裡感覺很真實 香港的居住空間疊在一起, 有如蝙蝠俠故事中的葛咸城 你可能會變得超級富有, 但是布吉傾向平面發展, 有更多空間 我見到住在倫敦城裡的人, 活得很可憐 雖然他們坐在漂亮的名車內, 卻不快樂 你隔著車窗向他們揮手, 他們立刻鎖上車門 所以我們寧願住在這裡 下午 3 點 20 分是午睡時間 Goldie 要讓食物消化一下 下午他去上瑜伽課, 可以讓他最少有五分鐘靜止不動 他到樓下午睡 幾分鐘後, 樓下傳來新專輯中 Horizons 的聲音, 他又跑上來了 他累極了 下午 4 點, 他再度騎上 Filano 電單車, 從 Kamala 沙灘上方馳騁而過, 直奔由一位健壯 曬得黝黑的澳洲人經營的瑜伽教室 Goldie 穿著 Yogangster 運動衫 ( 當然 ) 走進來, 回頭叫我數小時後在 Kamala 沙灘的 Bob s Bar 酒吧跟他見面 大約下午 6 點, 太陽開始落山 我正在喝第二瓶 Singha 啤酒時,Goldie 出現了, 手上拿著一副百家樂棋 他定期與女兒的學校老師下棋 不過我們要先做一下瑜伽 你不知道 Goldie 現在是瑜伽愛好者嗎? 謝天謝地, 我上星期喝了清酒, 因為我做了 10 天瑜伽, 真的非常要命 我說我從沒做過瑜伽, 你做哪一種? 高溫瑜伽和流瑜伽 我剛開始做流瑜伽, 已經很辛苦 大家都認為高溫瑜伽很辛苦, 但是我習慣了, 已經做了七年, 每周五次, 毫無問題 隨著太陽落到 Kamala 沙灘後那片鴿子灰色的安達曼海下方, 一天將盡 我做了一個三角式,Goldie 表示稱讚 : 很穩固 好極了 接著換下犬式 把腳往內移 腿保持伸直 我照做了, 但是我聽到身體某個地方發出啪一聲 要多練習 好的, 好的 我們留下 Goldie 獨自在輕快的雷鬼音樂中專心下棋 我還有更多詞語來形容他 : 懂得做下犬式 會喝清酒 愛吃咖喱麵 住在布吉的塗鴉藝術家 波希米亞 有城市創意, 而且是我見過最活力充沛的人 DISCOVER GOLDIE Find A Day with Goldie in Phuket in Explore (destinations) on the interactive menu and online at cathaypacific.com/discovery 認識 Goldie 在互動選單的探索 ( 遊無止境 ) 或 cathaypacific.com/discovery 觀看 A Day With Goldie in Phuket DISCOVER PHUKET Cathay Dragon flies to Phuket from Hong Kong 14 times a week 探索布吉 國泰港龍航空設有從香港飛往布吉的 航班, 每周有 14 班 GOLD STANDARD SLEEPS 黃金級住宿 KATA ROCKS, KATA (ABOVE) Kata Rocks is the Phuket retox venue of choice: giant suites host dinners and parties, live DJs spin tunes through the sunset, and it s just hosted its first superyacht rendezvous. The hotel s decor is boiled white, wear-sunglasses-inside: which just serves to better reflect the blue, blue, blue skies and topaz pools of the Sky Villas. Detox in the space-age spa if the happy hour cocktails overlooking (probably) the island s best sunset ruined you the night before. katarocks.com SRI PANWA, CAPE PANWA Southern Phuket s Cape Panwa is one of least developed bits of the island, and Sri Panwa, built high up in the jungle from the coast, is as calm and collected a Phuket resort as you ll find. Penthouse suites in the new Habita block come with infinity pools, gauzy soft furnishings and licks of local wooden furniture. sripanwa.com 卡塔 Kata Rocks 酒店 ( 上圖 ) Kata Rocks 酒店是布吉讓熱愛玩樂人士樂而忘返的勝地 : 這裡有適合舉行晚宴及派對的巨型套房, 黃昏時分有 DJ 播放音樂, 而且剛舉行首次豪華遊艇盛會 酒店的室內裝潢亮白耀眼得要戴上墨鏡, 恰好襯托蔚藍的天空以及 Sky Villas 別墅的湛藍池水 太空時代風格的水療中心提供排毒療程, 如果你在前一晚被夜幕低垂前的美麗夕陽迷住, 不慎在酒吧多喝了幾杯雞尾酒, 不妨考慮體驗一次這個療程 katarocks.com 攀瓦角 Sri Panwa 酒店布吉南端的攀瓦角是島上最新開發的地區, 建於岸邊叢林上方的 Sri Panwa 酒店, 跟布吉島上其他度假村一般寧靜與祥和 位於 Habita 大樓頂層的 Penthouse 套房附設無邊際泳池, 室內擺設質感輕盈色調柔和, 與當地的木製家具配搭, 恰到好處 sripanwa.com