Issue #96 November 08th 2017 Rebecca Minkoff dons glasses In partnership with Safilo until 2024 pg. 3 A woman as President Vitra Pop-Up Stores Amélie Morel talks about her first months at the helm of Silmo pg. 5 pg. 2
A woman as President Amélie Morel has been President of Morel for a few months. Formerly the Director of Communications at Morel (her family s company present in the sector for more than 130 years), she was unanimously elected by members of the association s Board of Directors to continue the enhancement work on the fair and sector initiated by her predecessor Philippe Lafont, who tragically passed away last March. Also part of this line of work is Optical Monitor, a study jointly commissioned by MIDO and Silmo and conducted by GfK with the goal of providing sector professionals a cross section of the development of the optical market and the current trends in the sector. Could you tell us about your first months at the helm of Silmo? I am familiar with Silmo because Morel has always exhibited there, so the initial training stage was simpler and settling in was not a problem. The main stages were observing the running of the fair from the organiser s point of view and not just from the exhibitor s perspective, and integrating into the organisational mechanism was easy thanks to an exceptional team. Philippe Lafont s presidency marked a turning point by helping to strengthen the collaboration between MIDO and Silmo. Will you continue to consolidate this position? The French and the Italians share common ground by having very similar cultures, and they are closely tied to their respective industry chain in the optical-eyewear sector. We are undoubtedly complementary on the global market and we are interested in strengthening our ties, whilst also maintaining our unique characteristics. At Silmo you presented, along with MIDO, the OMO Optical Monitor study conducted by GfK. Could you comment on this investigation s findings? This joint study between our two fairs is an excellent tool for understanding the markets, and I am delighted to share it. I would like to highlight a key point from this latest presentation: the mobile phone, and how it is increasing the pace of the changes that businesses have to face. This tool becomes an important element, if not the most important one, in the context of customer relations, as well as in customisation and shopping. This factor is already changing the market landscape and although the optical sector has not yet been influenced by it, these developments must not be ignored and should instead be anticipated with the introduction of new experiences for customers. GfK stressed the importance of understanding customer awareness and anticipating consumer trends in order to transform the retail sector. With impetus from former Presidents, Silmo has developed promotional tools and platforms to support professionals in this field. Will you continue to head in this direction? Of course. The fair is the true event which brings together all professionals in Paris, but Silmo is also a global platform, that I would say is virtual, and allows for contacts to be kept throughout the year, as well as allowing to protect and promote the interests of the sector. I am positive, just like my predecessors, that we must continue to be a committed partner. Could you give us a panorama of the French market? The French market is under pressure. Analysis of the GfK institute s study reveals a slight slowdown in eyewear sales because of the implementation of the new legislation on refunds. The businesses producing eyewear and lenses which export in large volumes are less affected, but paying attention and responding adequately to this new situation is required. I want to stress that the French market still holds onto its position as number one in Europe, and that therefore requires vigilance and flexibility in order to offer French customers the best products at the best price. world weekly wonders WMIDO 2
Ørgreen celebrates its history The company launches its 20 th Anniversary Mini Collection, a capsule collection revisiting some of the most iconic styles from the brand s history. Featuring two unisex styles, one female, and one male, named after four essential team members of the brand family; Gregers, Tobias, Sahra and Henrik who all made the company story a possibility for the last twenty years. The styles were first introduced in 2004 by co-founder and Chief Designer Tobias Wandrup. The characteristic open temple is inspired by the wing of a vintage 1959 Cadillac DeVille s. For the re-launch, the styles have received updated fronts as well as a sharper and slimmer wing. All frames come in 100% Japanese titanium and for the first time ever, the frames include titanium nose pads, which completes Ørgreen s minimalist aesthetic. The ninth edition of the Autofocus prize Negar Sh, Silent Movement Silent Movement Three artists won big at Autofocus #9, the international young art competition promoted by Vanni eyewear, organised by Olga Gambari. Negar Sh from Iran was awarded the exhibition project prize, Muge Yildiz from Turkey the video prize, and Camilla Soave and Beatriz Bizarro from Portugal the performance prize. The winning projects fully encapsulate the unique paths taken by these artists, breathing life into three conceptual and perceptive stories with different forms of expression. The common denominator of these stories is their attention to the smallest of things, to the breaths and flashes of light which gather between the spaces of life, life which passes by indiscriminately and inadvertently because of the speed and the mass of necessary actions and information taken in explained the competition organiser. Rebecca Minkoff dons glasses Safilo and Rebecca Minkoff, the US industry leader in attainable luxury handbags, accessories, and apparel with a playful and subtly edgy creativity, announce their new licensing agreement for the design, manufacturing and distribution of the Rebecca Minkoff collections of sunglasses and optical frames. The agreement will run for seven years through December 31, 2024 and the scope will be worldwide. The brand s first sunglass collection will be launched in the fourth quarter of 2018, followed by an optical collection in January 2019. Rebecca Minkoff is an exciting further addition to our brand portfolio the largest global label led by a millennial female designer and one of the fastest growing brands in the contemporary segment, says Luisa Delgado, CEO of Safilo. The Rebecca Minkoff women s eyewear collections will be distributed on the brand s e-commerce site and in boutiques, department and sunglass specialty stores, and better optical stores worldwide. De Rigo Vision consolidates its workforce The group has announced its intention to strengthen its human resources with the creation of more than 50 new professional roles. Many different company branches are involved in this move, proof of De Rigo Vision s health as a company, characterised in the first nine months of the year by a 9.7% growth of the wholesale channel. The group has specified that it wants to reinforce the distribution network and form a work team for cross-channel integration of retail and online distribution channels. The production area will also be consolidated with the goal of integrating the many production stages from a lean production perspective. Another strategic area benefiting from job creation will be technological innovation and the digitalisation of processes. In this area, De Rigo is about to launch a new online interface for opticians, which is designed to make the flow of information between companies and the entire network of stores more direct. Finally, the Product Development Department will also be consolidated with new resources for materials research and design. Luisa Delgado, CEO of Safilo world weekly wonders WMIDO 3
Vuarnet: ambassador for French excellence France has awarded Vuarnet the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant ( Business of Living Heritage ), well and truly a stamp of approval for businesses who stand out for their savoir-faire in craftsmanship par excellence. This year the company reached its 60th birthday and celebrated this important milestone with the opening of its first flagship store in Paris, at 28 rue Boissy d Anglas. In other big news for the company, Vincent Cassel has been chosen to be the brand s celebrity endorser, and the company has announced that a store in New York s Soho neighbourhood will be opened by the end of 2017. Finally, the maison has recently launched Vuarnet Ice. The new model, the result of two years of development, combines high-performance materials with the Vuarnet mineral sunglass lenses, complementing a linear and contemporary design. Eyewear intertwined with scarves Premium acquires majority of Ic! Berlin Emilio Pucci Eyewear has created a unique capsule collection which is perfectly in line with the creativity and textile tradition which has always made the Maison stand out. The collection includes two modern and striking models, with a lateral fitting which allows for the brand s scarves to be wrapped around the head. This original use of twillies, which come in a variety of prints, Monreale, El Borracho, and Piume, make these glasses immediately recognisable. The capsule collection is available in selected opticians and Emilio Pucci boutiques. Premium Equity Partners takes over majority of shares of the Berlin eyewear manufacturer. The company focus will remain on organisational growth through the development of new international markets and expansion in, and acquisition of new target groups. Design, innovation and the strength of the brand itself will drive new growth. Future investments will fortify these core strengths, allow ic! berlin to capitalise on the potentials of digitization & individualization and ultimately strengthen their relationships with trade partners and end customers. Ralph Anderl, until now the sole owner of the company, sells off the majority of shares. He now takes on his new position as a member of the advisory board with his remaining shares. CEO Jörg Reinhold takes over in the company by way of succession plan. Ralph Anderl Turn over design by Mario Milana Éric Babin President Iris Michel Lhoste CEO Zucchi Group Mario Pageau Senior Vice President New Look Eyewear world weekly wonders WMIDO 4
Design, fashion & lifestyle Nature at your feet For Spain s Wonders footwear brand Spanish illustrator Joana Santamans has created the fall/winter 2017/18 capsule collection of ballet flats linked to the animal world. The collaboration is part of the project that the Spanish company is developing to support talented female entrepreneurs who love beauty and have a personal universe to convey. The world of nature always plays a leading role in the artist s work and her universe is reflected in a line of iconic ballet flats composed of six unique models. Brightly coloured ballet flats in very soft leather are screen printed with fish and butterflies by Joana Santamans. It s almost like having a work of art at your feet! Joana Santamans Guess what I'm wearing today? Guess Jewellery has introduced the Express Myself mood and its key collection, MyBangle: a line composed of rhodium-plated bangles in two sizes and a variety of colour combinations, finished with Saffiano leather. You can choose your bangle from among the many different colour ranges. But customization doesn t end there: each side of the strap has a different colour and it can be attached to or removed from the bangle. Simply turn it over for a different accessory every day and multiple possibilities of matching it with your look. Vitra Pop-Up Stores Vitra Switzerland s renowned design furniture company will inaugurate two pop-up stores, one in Zurich and the other in Amsterdam. The new temporary outlets will be dedicated to the Eames Plastic Chair by Charles and Ray Eames. For a period of three months visitors will be able to discover the huge versatility of this classic design item and put together their own chair by exploring the vast range of bases, shell colours and the variety of upholstery available. A customized model can be ordered after combining the various options of their choice. A digital tool connected to the online shop will be used to transmit orders to the popup store and the product will be delivered at home within 48 hours. And the winner is Bob The iconic modular sofa system Bob, designed by Stefan Borselius and Thomas Bernstrand for the swedish company Blå Station, was immediately recognised and awarded "Best Product - Editors Choice of Stockholm Furniture Fair 2017". Since then, Bob's success story has continued with many awards. Now it wins one of the world's most prestigious design awards: the German Design Award 2018 in the category "Excellent Product Design Furniture". The sofa system is based on a repetition of 26 cm and a seat hight of 40 cm, providing almost unlimited options constructed using the smallest possible number of modules. It offers the architectonic freedom to either challenge or adhere to all types of spaces; let it undulate across the space or build strict constructions. Editorial Director: Francesco Gili MIDO Srl Unipersonale Via Petitti, 16-20149 Milano (Italy) Phone +39 02 32673673 P. Iva IT 07164050150 Cod. Fiscale e n. Iscr. Ufficio Imprese di Milano 07164050150 Cap. soc. 120.000,00 i.v. R.e.a. 1710133 Company subject to the direction and the coordination of Anfao - Associazione Nazionale Fabbricanti Articoli Ottici WMIDO is published in cooperation with Publicomm srl Piazzetta Brera 24/2-20121 Milano (Italy) P. Iva 02030290999 email: redazione@wmido.com world weekly wonders WMIDO 5