Natural vs. Sustainable (in a coat)

Emily Ridings Term Project Summary Chris Jensen MSCI-270 Natural vs. Sustainable (in a coat) In order to design and create clothing with a strong consideration of its ecological and ethical impact, I began by studying the raw materials used to make clothing. I sought to understand the sometimes misleading notion that a textile is sustainable just because it is produced from natural fibers, learning that chemical treatments can quickly turn an organic resource into a source of pollution through the production of it. The application of my research on sustainable textile production took form through the creation of a coat. The process of this piece required finding a balance between my creative, ethical and environmentally conscious convictions. Through carefully sourcing my materials and implementing them with distinct intention, I was able to unite the forces of creativity and sustainability. Alternatively to how design is sometimes approached, the materials I used did not aid in the creation of this garment, they defined it. I began sourcing materials with a focus on how the fabric functions environmentally, ethically and when it is worn. I knew I wanted the garment to provide warmth, so I focused on wool. The main component that deems wool a sustainable textile is when it is produced from farms with controlled sheep grazing; when sheep overgraze (eating more grass than the land can replenish), the soil of the land is weakened and can result in desertification 1. To determine wool ethically friendly towards the sheep that produce the fiber, the sheep ideally will not have been mulesed. Mulesing is a painful treatment that involves removing strips of skin from around the breech area of sheep in order to prevent infection 2. Finding fabric that met all of the standards I set was more difficult than I anticipated. Though I found many small farms that produced yarn from unmulsed sheep and land with controlled grazing, none of them produced the yarns into a woven fabric that could be cut and sewn (as I required). The only source of fabric I found that shared my sustainable and ethical values came from Pendleton Wool. Though the majority of Pendleton s products are produced with conventional, generally unsustainable methods, they do supply a material called Eco-wise Wool Fabric 3. The production of this fabric was clearly identified by its Cradle to Cradle certification, ensuring that the product implements many factors that influence sustainability 4. Cradle to Cradle is a nonprofit certification system that encourages manufacturers to have positive environmental influence through assessment of material sourcing and production, validating the sustainability of products 4. Some of the specific requirements under the bronze certification that the Eco-wise fabric holds include forgoing the use of chemicals harmful to human health, implementing a renewable energy source and assessing an impact strategy for water usage 4. Since this certification does not specifically indicate how the Eco-wise fabric achieves these requirements, I contacted Pendleton to find out. Fortunately, they confirmed that the fabric is compostable, their production methods do not involve the use of chemical treatments or dyes, and the sheep are not subjected to mulesing or overgrazing. After concluding that the Eco-wise

fabric was able to meet all of my sustainable and ethical standards, it was equally satisfying to determine that from a design standpoint, the weight of the fabric would provide the warmth that I desired. After selecting what fabric I would use for the main body of my coat, I moved on to source the inner parts and accessories. I intentionally chose to make a tailored coat because I knew it required many different kinds of materials, challenging myself to find sustainable and humanely produced versions of all of them. On the inside of the coat there is shoulder pads, hair canvas, lining and the thread that binds it all together. Shoulder pads are used to provide structure in garments. Typically, shoulder pads are purchased pre-made out of synthetic foam, but I averted from that option by making my own. The same spongey effect that foam provides could be achieved through cotton batting, so I searched for an organic option. Certified organic cotton saves energy, reduces water consumption and avoids pollution by not using any chemical treatments 5. Honeybee was able to supply both USDA certified organic cotton batting and organic cotton thread 6. Though neither the thread nor shoulder pads are visible in the final appearance of the coat, they are each components of the design concept by contributing to the environmental consistency. The material on the inside of the coat that is visible is lining, the fabric that covers all of the inside seams and shoulder pads to protect them from wear and give the garment a clean, finished appearance. Normally, lining is made of a slick material that provides easy movement in and out of the piece; in order to achieve that effect in my coat with a natural fiber, I turned to silk. The production of silk doesn t require any chemical treatment while aiding in the natural process of the silkworms fiber production, making it an environmentally sustainable fiber 7. From an ethical perspective, neither silk production method can be determined entirely humane. When conventional silk is made, the silkworms are boiled alive and killed 7. Peace silk refrains from intentionally killing the silkworms, but most of them still die after a short time because farmers do not supply enough food for the large population of worms that hatch 7. I approached silk sourcing by trying to learn as much about the specific silk farms as I could. After much deliberation, I decided to use a peace silk that is produced using wild silkworms that eat a wider range of food than domesticated 8. This gives the silkworms a higher chance of survival and, by eating differently, actually produces a unique texture and sheen that I m aesthetically attracted to. The final material I had to source that required much deliberation between ethical, sustainable and aesthetic appeal was buttons. To maintain my use of natural resources, I researched how wood could be sustainably applied to button production. Though there were a few options, I decided to buy from Wood Buttons, a company that produces in Brooklyn and plants three trees for every two that they cut down for button use 9. To assure that the buttons hadn t undergone any sort of chemical treatment, I chose raw, un-dyed plainwood and began experimenting with ways that I could dye the buttons naturally. I was able to produce the dark hue I was aiming for through a mix of coffee and tea. To seal the color, I made a mixture of beeswax and olive oil and coated each button. This problem solving added both environmental

and creative value to my concept, influencing the physical look of the coat while avoiding conventional, chemical methods of dye and sealant. We all wear clothes. For that reason, I believe we should all understand where they come from, what impact they re having on the earth and why that is important. The goal of this project was to provide knowledge that each producer, designer and consumer can carry with them while making the decisions that make up the fashion industry. Each person, whether they realize it or not, has a role in helping or harming the environment by choosing what covers their body; it is a responsibility that I believe should be taken much more seriously, overall. My personal experience with trying to make a sustainable garment proved more complicated than I anticipated. Though my use of materials was environmentally and ethically sustainable, I have yet to assess the entire life cycle of the garment; I know where my resources are coming from, but not elements such as the amount of energy required to receive them and produce them into the garment. The coat was carefully crafted with durability in mind, applying stitching techniques that ensure the garment will stay in tact. As a result, in conjunction with quality materials, it is a piece that will last lifetimes. Moving forward, I plan to complete more in depth assessments of each part of the garment s production that I am working on. However, this project was successful in determining how natural materials can be selected to create clothing born from ethical and sustainable values.

Annotated Bibliography 1. The Nature Conservancy. 2016. A New Horizon for Grasslands. The Nature Conservancy. http://www.nature.org/ourinitiatives/regions/southamerica/argentina/howwework/sustainablegrazing-1.xml. (Accessed 13 October 2016) This page explains the issues caused by overgrazing sheep and shows what damage has taken place as a result. The Nature Conservancy is planning with and monitoring wool producers to combat desertification and restore grasslands, working towards preventing overgrazing altogether. 2. Paull, D., Lee, C., Colditz, I., Atkinson, S. and Fisher, A. 2007. The effect of a topical anaesthetic formulation, systemic flunixin and carprofen, singly or in combination, on cortisol and behavioural responses of Merino lambs to mulesing of Australian Veterinary Journal. Volume 85: 98 106. The method of mulesing is first explained to provide an understand of why it is an inhumane treatment towards animals. Pain levels of mulesed lambs is documented and alternative methods are tested. Though other methods were deemed successful, there has yet to be a solution that is both ethically and environmentally beneficial. 3. Pendleton Woolen Mills. 2016. Eco-Wise Wool Fabric. Pendleton Woolen Mills. http:// www.pendleton-usa.com/product/eco-wise-wool-fabric/175405/sc/0/c/0/pc/0.uts? rv=true. (Accessed 5 October 2016) Pendleton Woolen Mills is a wool fabric producer and business with a legacy for their 100% pure virgin wool. 4. McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry in collaboration with Environmental Protection Encouragement Agency, GmbH. 2016. Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard Version 3.1. http://s3.amazonaws.com/c2c-website/resources/certification/standard/ C2CCertified_ProductStandard_V3.1_160107_final.pdf. (Accessed 30 September 2016) Cradle to Cradle is a product certification program that encourages the innovation of design to better benefit both human society and the environment; the company has set design principles with a sustainable approach that seeks to eliminate waste, use renewable energy and celebrate diversity. Cradle to Cradle is a prime example of a company that has propelled various textile producers into creating more ecologically friendly fabrics. 5. Global Organic Textile Standard: Ecology and Social Responsibility. 2016. GOTS General Description. http://www.global-standard.org/the-standard/general-description.html. (Accessed 30 September 2016)

The Global Organic Textile Standard defines the qualifications for organic textiles worldwide; from the harvesting of fibers to manufacturing of the fabrics and garments themselves, the GOTS tracks the entire supply chain of a product to ensure its sustainable credibility. This certification gives companies accountability that their production is ethically and ecologically focused and provides the consumer with assurance that the product they're purchasing is sustainably produced. 6. Honeybee Supply Company. 2016. HoneybeeGood. http://www.honeybegood.com (Accessed October 15 2016) HoneybeeGood is a fabric, quilting and sewing supplier committed to respecting the land and people that produce their products. 7. Sheryl Ryan. 2014. Why Choose Wild Peace Silk?. Greenopedia. http://greenopedia.com/ wild-peace-silk/. (Accessed 12 October 2016) This page explains why silk is a sustainable textile and discusses how the fibers form the fabric. Though silk is determined ecologically friendly, different methods of production are compared to question whether or not silk production is ethical. 8. Organic Cotton Plus. 2016. Peace Silk Satin-62 -Natural. Organic Cotton Plus. http:// organiccottonplus.com/collections/silk-1/products/peace-silk-satin-xx-natural (Accessed 20 October 2016) Information on Peace Silk Satin is given, including how it is humanely produced and what functions it provides as a fabric. 9. Wood Buttons. 2016. Wood Buttons. (Accessed 15 November 2016) Wood Buttons is a button producer based in Brooklyn, NY. They are committed local, made in USA production that is environmentally sustainable.