diffusion
the Joico Creative Team found inspiration in the way the angles of a prism refract light to create many different plays on shape and color. The collection is prism-like in both form and function, said Sue Pemberton, Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director. Each look features many facets or angles of shape and color, so the end result can vary greatly depending on how the hair is manipulated. To achieve this effect, shape and color were skillfully synergized for maximum versatility, with each look having the ability to go from avant-garde editorial to everyday salon wearable with minimal effort from the stylist or wearer.
the shapes All excess weight was extracted from the cuts to create moldable, universally flattering shapes with diffused exterior lines. The geometry was built into the interior of the cuts so that the inner layers act as a prism, allowing color to be exposed to both light and depth in an infinite number of ways.
the Colors Pemberton pulled out all the stops for the color, combining color blocking, strand splitting and feathering techniques to create the optical illusion of shimmering, incandescent color. Live color is not one dimensional; the eye picks up both the actual pigment and the light refraction caused by either structure or movement, explained Pemberton. The haircolor placement in this collection mimics refraction by using the lines of the haircut to split the light and create variation of tone and depth.
cut 1 2 3 Section hair into four areas (as shown). Pay particular attention to the crown area and hairline, and adjust the sectioning pattern to work with the natural growth patterns as needed. Take a vertical parting (the lightest form of cutting). Start at the nape and cut to the desired length. Continue the guide and work up toward the crown area, with the shortest length at the nape area progressing to the longest length at the crown. Proceed on model s left side. Take a slight diagonal parting and overdirect slightly to the first guide. Adjust the degree of overdirection to suit your overall design. TIP: Note the technique also works by cutting left and right sides simultaneously, rather than cutting one side completely then proceeding to the other. This optional approach is excellent for maintaining balance, fluidity and continuity through out the haircut. 4 5 6 Proceed as before, overdirecting to the last parting. Note that working internally is creating the perimeter/outline; both internal weight and external perimeter length are created at the same time. Proceed as before, cutting the left and right sides in sequence. Always adjust the degree of overdirection to suit the individual hair density, hair texture, length, growth pattern and overall desired look. Also consider the face shape and silhouette (round, square, asymmetrical, etc.) Crosscheck to ensure balance, proportion, technique; the flow and balance of the haircut are essential to the overall design.
7 8 Proceed to the topside of the haircut. Take diagonal partings pivoting off the crown; continue to overdirect, lift and apply even tension with each parting. Each parting should be elevated slightly higher than the previous. Note that pulling and/or overdirecting the partings back and down will result in a very heavy, unbalanced front side area. Repeat process on other side. To establish a longer, softer fringe area, take horizontal partings, elevating them (for softness) and connect into the side areas. 9 Crosscheck the entire haircut internally and externally by point-cutting and chipping into any corners. Round off corners to remove any excess weight. Haircut is now ready for color placement. Further refine hair after the color process to ensure the haircut and color flow seamlessly.
1 VeroLight Powder Lightener with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide + equal amounts of K-PAK H.K.P. to create a 5 Volume (1 ½ %) (gold foil) 2 Vero K-PAK Color 9RG with 20 Volume (6%) Veroxide (copper foil) 3 Vero K-PAK Color 8G with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (blue foil) 4 Vero K-PAK Color 7RC with10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (red foil) 5 Vero K-PAK Color INV with10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (purple foil) Base Color Vero K-PAK Chrome B6 with Activator Model has previously highlighted level 9 (light blonde) and level 6 (light brown) hair. 1 2 Starting on the left side, weave out an overhang and clip it away. Leave a small piece of hair un-foiled around hairline, then take a vertical/diagonal weave with Formula 3. Take a staggered slice and feather in lightener at the edge of the foil so there is no solid line with Formula 1. 3 4 Take a vertical slice parting and apply Formula 3 from the edge of the foil through to the ends. Take a vertical/diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 1, feathering the lightener as before. Take both a vertical/diagonal weave and a staggered slice parting with Formula 2. Take a vertical slice parting with feathering at the scalp area. Continue to take vertical partings in the following manner: one slice Formula 2; one slice Formula 1, feathering the lightener as before; and one last slice with Formula 3.
Color 5 6 Proceed to the top and fringe area and section out the top approximately two inches in width. Take a zigzag diagonal/ horizontal weave parting of overhang and clip it away. 7 Pick up the points of the zigzag diagonally and apply Formula 1, feathering the lightener as before. Take a diagonal slice of Formula 1, then take a diagonal slice parting with Formula 3, a slice parting with Formula 2, a slice parting with Formula 1 ( feathered as before), a slice with Formula 3, a slice with Formula 2, two slice partings with Formula 4 halfway down the slice and Formula 5 on the remainder, and one last slice parting with Formula 3. 8 Proceed to the side section and leave out a triangular section into the fringe area. Bend the foils out of the way, then proceed to the side area and take small slice of hair around the hairline. Take a vertical slice parting and apply Formula 3. Take two staggered slice partings with Formula 1 (using the feathering technique), one placed higher toward the top section and one lower toward the hairline. Continue to stagger higher toward the top section and lower toward the hairline to cover the heavier side with the following formulas: two staggered with Formula 3; two staggered with Formula 2; two staggered with Formula 4 halfway down and Formula 5 on the remainder; one slice with Formula 2; and and two staggered slices with Formula 3. Completed foiling technique. Apply Base Color to regrowth area. Process for 20 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator for 5 minutes, rinse. Style hair with appropriate Joico styling products.
Fashion Flash Statement Stripes Stripes are making a major statement this season, but that doesn t necessarily mean the bigger, the better. Instead, designers at Michael Kors, Victoria Beckham, Preen and Tibi played with positioning and placement to give textiles the striped treatment. salon look This collection is depicted in a number of artistic, runway-inspired manifestations, but the shapes and color techniques are designed to inspire your salon work as well. The interior geometry of the cuts support wearable, all-day styles, while the diffused exterior lines offer unlimited street styling possibilities. As with the shapes, the color techniques are designed to inspire your salon color. Reinterpret the Prism color techniques in client-friendly shades of blonde, brunette and copper for an inspired way to add tone, depth and a sense of illusion to your everyday work. Sporty Minimalism We ve seen full-on sportswear from the likes of Alexander Wang for years, but this go-around, we noticed a pared-down approach to athletic influences at Victoria Beckham, Rodarte, Philip Lim and Chanel. From racing steps to lace-ups to zipper pulls and drawstrings, just a detail here and there kept the looks fresh.
Joico Laboratories, Pointe-Claire QC, H9R 5N3 1-800-267-4676 HAIR: Joico Artistic Team COLOR: Sue Pemberton PHOTO: Hama Sanders J1149