The Fine Print All patterns, photos, and information contained in this pattern are the property of Melissa Mora. All rights reserved. Reproduction and redistribution by any means are not permitted. No part of this pattern including, but not limited to, images, diagrams, or verbiage may be used to create other patterns. This pattern or any of its components may not be copied, emailed or shared in any way privately or in a group setting, including any and all social media forums. All components of this pattern are copyrighted and owned by Blank Slate Patterns This pattern is intended and licensed for personal use only. Sales of products produced using this pattern must be done by obtaining a Limited Production License. Please contact Melissa Mora for more info: mellysews@gmail.com Materials Size Shift Dress 44/45 (112cm) 58/60 (150cm) XXS -XL 3.1/4 yards 2 1/4 yards (2.97m) (2.06m) 1X-3X 3.1/4 yards 3.1/4 yards (2.97m) (2.97m) WHERE Do I find... Maxi Dress 44/45 (112cm) 58/60 (150cm) 4.1/4 yards 3 1/4 yards (2.97m) (2.06m) 4.1/4 yards 4.1/4 yards (2.97m) (2.97m) *Tip - Use your bookmark bar on the left to navigate. Fabric Yardages pg 2 Size Chart pg 3 Fitting Adjustments and Sewing Notes pg 4-6 Printing Instructions pg 7 Sewing Instructions pg 8-15 Pattern Pieces pg 16-59 Hood Option (add this amount) 44/45 (112cm) or 58/60 (150cm) 1/2 yard (.46m) 1/2 yard (.46m) Notions: 1 1/ 2 yards (1.37m) of 1/2 inch (12mm) wide single fold bias tape. Optional lighweight fusible interfacing for the non-hooded neckline, 1/4 yard Suggested Fabrics: Light to medium weight woven fabrics. This dress will look quite different depending on fabric used and how much drape it has, but cotton, rayon, silk, etc, are all suitable. Medium to heavy weight wovens are not suitable for the welt pockets or hood lining. Copyright 2016, Melissa Mora. All Rights Reserved. Printing for personal use permitted; other redistribution and reproduction prohibited. 1
HOW to Do a Bust Adjustment Here s how to do a full or small bust adjustment on this pattern. You ll need to have large paper (wrapping paper works well; use the back side) to trace your pattern piece onto. To determine the amount you need to add, take your bust measurement and subtract the bust measurement from the size chart. Divide this number by 2 and that is the adjustment amount (the amount you need to add to the pattern piece). So if you re making a size XL and have a 47 inch bust, you ll subtract 44 to get 3, then divide that by 2 to get 1.5 - which is the adjustment amount you need. In the diagrams below, the full bust adjustment is shown on top and the small bust adjustment at bottom. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Start by cutting your front pattern piece along the lengthen/shorten line (Fig. 1). Working with only the top half of the pattern, cut a line from the bottom of the pattern straight up to the point of the dart, then continuing to but not through the armscye. Cut a second line through the center of the dart to but not through the dart point (Fig. 2). Spread (Fig. 3 top) or overlap (Fig 3. bottom) the pattern the amount of the bust adjustment. Keep the vertical edges of the adjustment parallel by either widening or narrowing the dart. Tape new bodice piece together, adding paper underneath if necessary, then add the bodice back to the skirt half of the pattern and redraw the side seam (Fig. 4). Fig. 3 Fig. 4 Copyright 2016, Melissa Mora. All Rights Reserved. Printing for personal use permitted; other redistribution and reproduction prohibited. 3
HOW to Adjust Dart Height Every body is different, so the dart placement on this pattern may not be perfect for your body out of the box. Correct dart placement is important for a flattering fit. Luckily, this is easy to adjust, and you only need one measurement to do it. Fig. 1 While wearing a top with a seam that sits on the center of your shoulder, measure on your body from the fullest point of your bust straight up to that shoulder seam. Add 1/2 (12mm) to this measurement and write it down. Body Measurement + 1/2 (12mm)= (measurement 1). Next, on the pattern draw a line through the center of the dart and extend 1 1/2inches (3.8cm) past the tip of the dart. This is the bust point. Measure from this point straight up to the shoulder on the pattern and compare this measurement with the measurement written above to determine if you need to raise or lower the dart. Fig. 2 Fig. 3 Trace the original dart onto another piece of paper (Tip: use a dark marker that will show up if you place your paper under the pattern). Now draw a new line on the pattern from the shoulder toward the bust point that is the same as the measurement you wrote above. With the new bust point as the center, draw a circle with a 1 1/2 inch (3.8cm) radius. Next, move your traced dart up or down until the point touches the circle. Retrace the new dart and redraw the side seams as needed to align with the new dart. Fig. 2 shows a raised dart, Fig. 3 shows a lowered dart. Copyright 2016, Melissa Mora. All Rights Reserved. Printing for personal use permitted; other redistribution and reproduction prohibited. 4
HOW To Lengthen, Shorten and Blend Sizes To determine the finished length of your dress, measure from the topmost shoulder point to the hem on the dress back. Measure the same distance from the large bone at the top of your spinal colum to check length. If you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern based on your personal preference, cut along the lengthen/shorten lines on the front and back pattern pieces. To lengthen spread the pieces apart and tape new paper in the gap; to shorten overlap the pieces. To blend between sizes (only AFTER doing any necessary bust adjustments from previous page), choose your bust, waist and hip points off the size chart. Use your high bust size when determining shoulders, then draw a new line connecting the different sizes to the armscye, waist and hem points to make a custom size. Copyright 2016, Melissa Mora. All Rights Reserved. Printing for personal use permitted; other redistribution and reproduction prohibited. 5
SEWING Notes Difficulty Level This is an advanced beginner project! Pattern includes 1/2 inch (12mm) seam allowances on all seams unless otherwise noted, and 1 1/2 inches (38mm) for the hem. Pinning and cutting your fabric Follow the cutting directions on the pattern pieces to cut the pieces out. Transfer the markings for the welt pocket placement to the right side of the dress and the wrong side of the pockets. You may also want to mark the bottom edge of the pocket, so that you don t inadvertently place it on your dress upside down. Transfer the dart and dot markings to the wrong side of the dress. A note about finishing seams - you can choose to zig-zag and trim, serge, or try a French seam. For more information and how-to s for seam finishing, see this post: http://mellysews.com/2013/01/a-guide-to-seamfinishes.html Copyright 2016, Melissa Mora. All Rights Reserved. Printing for personal use permitted; other redistribution and reproduction prohibited. 7
A Test Square 2 in x 2 in 5 cm x 5cm Size Key XXS XS S M L XL 1X 2X 3X 16
17 Grainline B A
18 C B
D 19 Blank Slate Patterns FOLD Grainline Leralynn Dress by Melly Sews BACK FACING Cut 1 on fold non-hooded version only 1/2 (12mm) seam allowance included C
20 E D
E 21
A F 3/4 inch (18mm) seam allowance this edge 3X 2X 1X XL L M S XXS XS Blank Slate Patterns 22 Leralynn Dress by Melly Sews FRONT Cut 2 (right and left) 1/2 (12mm) seam allowance included
B G A 23 Blank Slate Patterns Leralynn Dress by Melly Sews FRONT FACING Cut 2 (right and left) non-hooded version only 1/2 (12mm) seam allowance included F
Blank Slate Patterns C B 24 Leralynn Dress by Melly Sews G BACK Cut 1 on fold 1/2 (12mm) seam allowance included H
D I C 25 H
XL 1X 2X 3X XXS XS S M E J L D 26 XXS XS S M L I
E 27 J
XS XL F K 28Lengthen or Shorten Here Grainline XXS S M L
G F 29 K L
Grainline H G FOLD 30 Lengthen or Shorten Here L M
I H 31 M N
J O I Blank Slate Patterns 32 Leralynn Dress by Melly Sews WELT POCKET Cut 2 1/2 (12mm) seam allowance included Grainline Make sure this edge is closest to hem when placing pocket N
XL 1X J 2X 3X 33 O
1X 2X 3X K P XXS 34
XS L K S M L XL 1X 2X 3X 35 P Q
M L 36 Q R
N M 37 R S
P U 38
Q P 39 U XXS XS S V
R Q 40 V W
S R 41 W X
Knee length, 1 1/2in (37mm) allowed for hemming U Z 42
V a M U XL L 1X 43 2X 3X Z
Knee length, 1 1/2in (37mm) allowed for hemming W V 44 a b
X W 45 b
O N 46 S T
O 47 T
X Y 48 Blank Slate Patterns Leralynn by Melly Sews HOOD Cut 2 of main, cut 2 of lining 1/2 (12mm) seam allowance included Grainline S T
T 49 Y
Y X 50
Y 51
Z c 52
a d Z 53 c
b a 54 d e
b 55 e
c 56 Maxi length, 1 1/2in (37mm) allowed for hemming
d c 57
e d 58 Maxi length, 1 1/2in (37mm) allowed for hemming
e 59