5 Visit us at NYSCC Supplier's Day, NY May 2-3, 2017, Booth 777 Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs / Switzerlad, Phoe + 41 62 836 17 31 RoyalEpige P5 Rejuveatio through epigeetic sciece Accelerates epidermal regeeratio for smoother ski Activates the cellular cleaig process Reveals a more evely toed ski www.mibellebiochemistry.com SUN CARE INTERVIEW DR. JANE SUM COVESTRO EPIGENETICS COSMETIC DRONES INTERVIEW VAIOS BARLOS CLARIANT MARIE THADAL, CHAIR 2017, NYSCC about the ew veue THE TRUMP EFFECT Eglish/Germa May 2017 VOLUME NO. 25
PAT Plat Milkig Sourcig solutio for your actives Plat Advaced Techologies PAT SA 13 rue du Bois de la Champelle 54500 Vadoeuvre-lès-Nacy FRANCE Tel. : +33(0)3 83 94 03 42 cotact@platadvaced.com www.platadvaced.com ALPAT Alterext: FR0010785790 ALPAT All our activities hold ISO 9001 certificatio
Cotets EURO COSMETICS May 2017 Volume No. 25 Focus Su 5 EDITORIAL 6 NAMES & NEWS 10 INTERVIEWS 10 A coversatio with Dr. Jae Sum, Head of Cosmetics, Covestro 43 Iterview with Marie Thadal Chair 2017, NYSCC 20 TECHNOLOGY R&D 12 Iovative Techologies solve Performace Challeges i Wide Rage of Su Care By Nilesh Shah ad Isabelle Va Reeth 16 Epigeetics A New Way to Rejuveate Ski By Esther Belser 22 Formulatig with Ati-Agig Solutios that Never Get Old By Amit Patel ad Traci L. Cassell 26 Traditioal Ati-Agig Kowledge, Applied To The Ski By Júlia Comas, Cristia Davi, Elea Cañadas, Laia Gozález, Raquel Delgado 32 Repair ad Maiteace of the Epidermal Barrier with Cosmetic Droes By Marisabel Mourelle-Macii & Joa Gozalez 36 REGULATION & LEGISLATION The Trump Effect The Curret State of US Regulatory By Kare Yarussi-Kig 39 NEWS & TALK Vaios Barlos, Clariat talks about the ew Global Competece Ceter i Brazil Dr. Jae Sum, Head of Cosmetics, Covestro 41 NEW INGREDIENTS 43 EVENTS 45 PACKAGING & MACHINES 47 INDEX OF ADVERTISERS/ IMPRINT 48 MARKET PLACE The Jacob K. Javits Covetio Ceter i Mahatta 30 A 1987 2017 dieser Stelle möchte wir us isbesodere bei usere Kude & Parter für das Vertraue herzlich bedake. Wir freue us auf die weitere gemeisame Zukuft. 5-2017 3 EURO COSMETICS
NAMES & NEWS Croda s $170 Millio Ivestmet i Reewable Maufacturig to Be Completed i Q4 2017 Croda Iteratioal Plc, the ame behid high performace igrediets ad techologies, celebrates a milestoe for its ew ECO Project; a $170 millio ivestmet i reewable maufacturig that will reduce reliace o fossil fuels ad the carbo footprit of its ew 100% Bio-Based ECO Rage of Surfactats. The ext milestoe i Croda s ECO project is the fial istallatio of the exterior ifrastructure. With evirometal issues such as climate chage, fidig a alterative for a key petrochemical based source will have a positive evirometal impact ad help impact the sustaiability profile of everyday products from face creams to toothpaste to pait to laudry deterget. Net greehouse gas emissios to the atmosphere will be reduced by use of Croda s 100% Bio-Based ECO Rage of surfactats compared to their petrochemically derived couterparts. Croda s versatile bio-ethylee oxide plat ca accept bioethaol from differet reewable sources. These milestoes are ot oly importat to the produc- tio of the ew 100% Biobased ECO Rage of Surfactats; it also demostrates Croda s log-stadig dedicatio to sustaiability ad puttig iovatio ito actio. With chagig cosumer expectatios for more reewable products ad the drive for improved sustaiability, cosumer goods maufacturers are strivig for igrediets to develop products that meet these eeds. Croda Iteratioal Plc is leadig the way i fidig iovative solutios to meet customer expectatios. Croda s ew 100% Bio-based ECO Rage of igrediets will eable its customers to meet their goals of deliverig 100% reewable, high-performace products to their cosumers ad reduce the reliace o fossil fuels i the Uited States. This ew rage of 100% biobased products will be used i may applicatios, icludig lubricats, seat foams ad coatigs i the automobile idustry; air- ad floor-care products i the cleaig idustry; ad drillig fluid i the oil idustry; as well as cosmetics ad hair care products i the persoal care idustry. trate the hair fiber ad provide superior stregtheig i shampoos ad other hair care products by usig cost-effective techology. This fuctioal igrediet is based o glucoside chemistry that stregthes the hair wash after wash, peetratig the atural fibres allowig the hair to be more maageable ad allurig. The Sistera s road to full sustaiability The facilities DKS Co. Ltd. i Japa, the producer of Sistera sucrose esters of fatty acids ad Sistera s mother compay, are approved as RSPO Mass Balace ad Segregated supply chai. Productio with certified ad traceable palm oil accordig to the Mass Balace system of our powder grades has started i Jauary 2017. This meas that the supply of RSPO certified Sistera sucrose esters from the warehouse i the solutio, developed by Ashlad, is compatible with color treatmet systems to stregthe hair durig ad after colorig, ad to repair hair fibers that have bee damaged by chemical treatmets. It helps to stregthe all hair types, icludig Caucasia, Asia ad Africa America. Netherlads has started from March 2017. Sistera is a small user of palm oil, but we recogize the eed for sustaiable palm oil sourcig. It is a essetial issue for the global eviromet, biodiversity ad the workig coditios for the local platatio workers. We wat to take our resposibility so we ca offer a sustaiable palm-based emulsifier. Every step is a ew step o the road to full sustaiability. Ashlad Wis Gold Award for Best New Fuctioal Igrediet at i-cosmetic Global i Lodo SezaGe ad AstraZeeca Iitiate Techology Developmet Collaboratio Ashlad s FiberHace bm solutio received the Gold award for Best New Fuctioal Igrediet today at i-cosmetics Global i Lodo. FiberHace bm impressed judges with its use of uique ad sustaiable igrediets that work simultaeously to create ad stregthe hair fibers without compromisig color. FiberHace bm solutio is a molecule desiged to pee- Solvay is eterig ito medical devices buildig o its world-leadig portfolio of high-performace polymers with a ew detal care busiess lie. Solvay Detal 360 TM spas from a iovative material to replace metal i removable partial deture frames, to eablig a digital workflow that accelerates the work of detal laboratories ad detists. Removable partial deture 5-2017 6 EURO COSMETICS
NEW INGREDIENTS whiteig ad repairig properties. Omyacare is pure white atural calcium carboate with strog opacity ad mastered particle sizes that ca be used i skicare ad color cosmetic formulas. A broad spectrum of specialty igrediets such as atural color pigmets ad sugar-based surfactats were also showcased. Omyadet particles have a core of calcium carboate ad a shell of hydroxyapatite, the mai costituet of huma tooth eamel. The large surface area of the tailor-made Omyadet 100 OG elemets esures high reactivity ad the ability to repair microscopic defects through remieralizatio of tooth eamel. This results i a smoother ad therefore whiter tooth surface. The Omyacare rage cosists of differet atural calcium carboate particles that provide multifuctioal igrediets for iovative skicare cosmetics. These mierals are ECO-certified ad ca be used i a variety of applicatios, icludig emulsios (o/w ad w/o) ad ahydrous (o-powder) formulatios, to provide body ad texture. They deliver smoothess ad a pleasat ski feel whe used i body lotios, body creams ad colored cream products which are iteded for reduced tackiess ad faster dryig times. Omya s showcased highlights were rouded off with high purity botaical colorats, pigmets ad atural atioxidats from its distributio portfolio. As such, the compay s ew Natural Gardeia Red colorat was itroduced at i-cosmetics as a ideal igrediet for vega cosmetic formulatios. www.omya.com Alba Muller will itroduce several atural iovatios at NYSCC Supplier s Day As the recipiet of the Most Sustaiable Compay Award, Alba Muller, l Expert du Naturel, will share its Gree visio at NYSCC Suppliers Day o May 2 3 i New York at the Javits Ceter. 5 New Bled of Plat Extracts: Cosméphyta-MIX, the ultimate plat actives cocktail to boost your formulas Thaks to its exclusive extractio processes of active molecules, Alba Muller develops 100% atural, eco-desiged plat extracts. The ew Cosme-Phytamix rage is a combiatio of plat extracts cocetrated i actives for a powerful syergistic ad targeted actio to meet specific eeds. 2 Iovative Cosmetic Actives, Ati-pollutio: Preparami & Protectami, the protectio agaist pollutio Alba Muller has created 100% Natural active igrediets to prepare ad protect the ski from exteral aggressios such as pollutio. Preparami & Protectami are the perfect cosmetic active solutios for city dwellers. 4 New Skicare i vogue: Ready-to-beauty, 4 ew refereces obtaied from the best of our expertise Alba Muller eriches its exclusive offer of formulated cosmetic products with 4 ew refereces, illustratig its ability to combie Excellece ad Sustaiability such as: The Vegetal Golde Mask: This iovative skicare is made of a high cocetratio i 100% Natural Plat extracts: Cosme-Phytamis Gigko biloba, horse chestut ad red vie. This luxurious texture mask provides a sesatio of wellbeig ad relaxatio. It reduces the sigs of tiredess ad time, it moisturizes ad relaxes the ski. www.albamuller.com SILAB WELLAGYL Agig well is the art of beig i harmoy with your age WELLAGYL is a uprecedeted cosmetic active igrediet which respods to a visio of beauty clearly expressed by wome determied to ehace their wellbeig while stayig i harmoy with their age: agig well. WELLAGYL is a purified active igrediet, rich i oligosaccharides, from the Bulgaria rose (INCI Name: Rosa damascea), obtaied from a o-deaturig maufacturig process. The rose is the quee of flowers. It is the symbol of purity, love ad beauty. The Bulgaria rose is oe of the most famous ad its beefits mostly target the body s geeral well-beig. I the Atiquity, this rose was used for its effects o mood ad its capacities to ehace beauty. Available i aqueous solutio, WELLAGYL is a pateted active igrediet, easy to formulate ad compliat with global cosmetic regulatios (Europe, Uited States, Japa ad Chia). To stay beautiful ad still look your age, WELLAGYL is recommeded for all mature ski care products (recommeded amout: (1 to 2.5%). www.silab.com
GlyAcid is the ew global bechmark for high purity glycolic acid. CrossChem s GlyAcid is produced usig a proprietary acid sapoificatio ad purificatio process that does ot use formaldehyde while deliverig a high purity glycolic acid i 57% solutio, 70% solutio, ad 99% crystallie. Replace your curret glycolic acid with a igrediet produced specifically for today s persoal care formulatios. CROSS P U R E C H E M I S T R Y 1-800-621-0500 coastsouthwest.com
EVENTS Iterview with Marie Thadal, Chair 2017, New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) EURO COSMETICS: This year you start at a ew veue at Javits Covetio Ceter i New York City. What is the backgroud to this decisio for the move from New Jersey to New York? Marie Thadal: It was time. The evet had humble begiigs, more tha 30 years ago, whe it took place i a hotel lobby with a couple of local suppliers. Year after year Suppliers Day has ejoyed tremedous growth ad idustry support. The 2016 umbers speak for themselves 7,785 attedees ad 415 iteratioal exhibitors represetig 38 coutries. The move to the Jacob Javits Ceter i New York City was ecessary to best serve the global cosmetic igrediets marketplace that is represeted at the show. EURO COSMETICS: How was the respose from the exhibitors o the move? Marie Thadal: The move to NY came from surveyig our exhibitors ad attedees ad askig them i what city ad veue they preferred the Suppliers Day to be located i the future. The move has bee well received by our exhibitors ad the show floor will be 10% larger. The Board ad committee members also took careful cosideratio ito the cost of doig busiess i New York City ad crafted a cost structure to esure that the Suppliers Day show at the world reowed Javits Ceter cotiues to be cost effective ad a good value. EURO COSMETICS: How ca participats beefit from the ew locatio? Marie Thadal: Suppliers Day at the Javits Ceter will ow be held all uder oe roof i oe cotiguous hall at the covetio ceter. Beig at a veue that is i the heart of the global beauty ad fashio commuity as well as a hub for our idustries product developmet ad marketig, attedees ca travel by trai, bus, ad the ew 34 th street/hudso Yards subway stop right by the Javits Ceter. Additioally, Suppliers Day will be havig shuttles Marie Thadal, Chair 2017, NYSCC ruig back ad forth from Pe Statio, Grad Cetral ad Port Authority as well as all desigated hotels. Ad, eve from two New Jersey locatios. New features ad show experieces that attedees ca expect at Suppliers Day 2017 iclude: Pre-Show SCC Workshops: Becomig a Cosmetic Chemist ad Cosmetic Formulatios A Ribbo Cuttig ceremoy with past NYSCC presidets & WAR PAINT performers Iovatios Alley Frech Pavilio Future Chemists Workshop Digital Age of Beauty Discover Sustaiability @ Suppliers Day 2017 Awards Night Party ad sustaiability iovatios celebratio Special tickets to the ew Broadway musical WAR PAINT celebratig Helea Rubistei ad Elizabeth Arde EURO COSMETICS: What iovatios will be there this year? Marie Thadal: Suppliers Day has become the leadig evet for the itroductio ad access to the latest iovatio i the cosmetic idustry from leadig maufacturers, suppliers ad distributors of raw materials ad igrediets. Suppliers of testig, measuremet ad research equipmet, as well as iovative service solutios ad software providers, packagig desigers ad suppliers also feature ovel products ad services. EURO COSMETICS: At the first time you orgaize a Kick-Off party. Please tell us more about this evet. Marie Thadal: The NYSCC Awards Night Party will take place the eveig of May 2d at Stage 48 i NY. It is a celebratio desiged to brig our membership together i a social settig to ackowledge our move to NYC, ad showcase those compaies i our idustry that have exhibited a leadership positio o sustaiability. Compaies like Alba Muller, Croda ad Seppic were recogized as Most Sustaiable Compay by NYSCC i February, ad will also brig their expertise to the DISCOVER SUSTAINBILITY @ Suppliers Day o the exhibit floor o May 3 rd 2017. We also will be recogizig the year s best sustaiability efforts from our exhibitors. There will be a registratio table for o members to joi the SCC ad the Awards Night Party will be a great tie to relax after the show, have fu with peers from the cosmetic idustry, make ew busiess coectios, ad lear about all that beig a SCC membership has to offer. EURO COSMETICS: How do you see the future developmet of the show? Marie Thadal: The atioal SCC as well as the 19 chapters that make up our society is committed to havig local evets occur throughout the US. These shows ad evets are strategically desiged to meet the busiess ad educatio eeds of the local members. The NYSCC Suppliers Day will cotiue to reach out to brig iovatio from all areas of the globe ad to ehace the show experiece for all participats. The log term sustaiability of the chapter is paramout ad is made possible because of the success of Suppliers Day ad its hard-workig committee, which i tur fuels NYSCC s ability to meet the educatioal missio of the chapterprovidig advace best practices i cosumer educatio, sourcig, sustaiability ad more. EURO COSMETICS: Thak you for the coversatio. 5-2017 43 EURO COSMETICS
PACKAGING & MACHINES KRÜSS software revolutioizes drop shape aalysis for cotact agle measuremet KRÜSS presets a completely ew image evaluatio algorithm for cotact agles i the ADVANCE software. For aalyzig wettig ad adhesio, the software detects the drop shape ad the iterface betwee drop ad surface (base lie), eve i the face of severe iterferece, which ca be caused by extraeous light or shadows, for example. With covetioal software, these cases make evaluatio difficult, whereas ADVANCE ca almost always carry it out automatically, which makes the measuremet of cotact agles faster. Furthermore, the aalysis becomes less depedet o the user, as maual itervetio is o loger required. The effectiveess of the software becomes particularly oticeable with positio-depedet wettig measuremets, for istace whe checkig the homogeeity of a coatig or cleaig process. I this case, drops are frequetly dosed oto a umber of sample positios i a rectagular matrix. Therefore, several drops lie o a lie betwee the illumiatio source ad the camera of the cotact agle measurig istrumet. Previously, drops had to be removed i the course of the measuremet to esure that they did ot throw troublesome shadows. The extremely robust image evaluatio of ADVANCE makes this step obsolete. I may applicatios, such as quality cotrol of glass cleaig processes, very flat drops form as a result of samples with good wettability. This rage betwee 1 ad 10, which was previously techically difficult to measure, is resolved outstadigly well with the ew algorithm. ADVANCE is therefore able to detect the smallest ihomogeeities i the course of programmed procedures. KRÜSS Maagig Director Floria Automatic cotact agle measuremet o a close successio of drops with ADVANCE Automatische Kotaktwikelmessug a eg hitereiader liegede Tropfe mit ADVANCE Weser sees the further developmet of ADVANCE as a milestoe i iterfacial sciece. KRÜSS Software revolutioiert die Tropfekoturaalyse bei der Kotaktwikelmessug KRÜSS stellt erstmalig eie völlig eu etwickelte Bildauswertealgorithmus für Kotaktwikel i der Software ADVANCE vor. Für die Aalyse vo Beetzug ud Haftug detektiert die Software die Tropfekotur ud die Greze zwische Tropfe ud Oberfläche (Basisliie) auch bei starke Störuge, zum Beispiel durch Fremdlicht oder Schatte, die bei herkömmlicher Software automatisierte Auswertuge icht zulasse. Dass die Bildaalyse so gut wie immer automatisch erfolge ka, beschleuigt zum eie die Kotaktwikelmessug, zum adere wird diese uabhägiger vom Beutzer, da keie mauelle Eigriffe mehr otwedig sid. Sehr deutlich wird die Leistugsfähigkeit der Software bei positiosabhägige Beetzugsmessuge, beispielsweise um die Homogeität eier Beschichtug oder Reiigug zu prüfe. Dabei werde Tropfe häufig auf viele Probepositioe i eier rechteckige Matrix dosiert. Daher liege jeweils mehrere Tropfe auf eier Liie zwische der Beleuchtug ud der Kamera des Kotaktwikel-Messistrumets. Früher musste da Tropfe währed des Messablaufs etfert werde, damit sie keie störede Schatte werfe. Dak der äußerst robuste Bildauswertug mit ADVANCE ka dieser Schritt etfalle. Bei viele Aweduge, wie etwa der Qualitätskotrolle eier Glasreiigug, bilde sich aufgrud gut beetzbarer Probe sehr flache Tropfe. Dieser bisher messtechisch schwer zu erfassede Bereich zwische 1 ud 10 wird mit dem eue Algorithmus hervorraged aufgelöst. So ka ADVANCE gerigste Ihomogeitäte im Zuge programmierter Prozedure detektiere. KRÜSS Geschäftsführer Floria Weser sieht i der Weiteretwicklug vo ADVANCE eie Meilestei i der Grezflächewisseschaft. Cotact: KRÜSS GmbH Borsteler Chaussee 85 22453 Hamburg www.kruss.de 5-2017 45 EURO COSMETICS
L I N K T O I N N O V A T I O N S I N C E 1 9 5 5 Global R&D Director of Dow Home, Istitutioal ad Persoal Care Solutios, about ew effective ati-agig techologies Seior Director of Customer Marketig, MeadWestvaco (MWV) A cosmetic approach agaist cellular ageig processes By Agela Kleier By Alicia Gimeez et al. By Shyam Gupta, PhD By Jeaette Jacki, MD Europea Busiess Developmet Maager Cosmetics, Bretag Holdig GmbH, about INNOVI s ew GPS-S (Guidig Performace System - Surface) By Imoge Matthews By Sara Maso Director of Developmet/ Cosmetics Applicatio Techology, Worlée Cosmetics By Howard Epstei, Ph. D. Part 2 By Yuliya Berezki ad Dr. Yash Kamath By Marc Eema et al. By Jeaette Graf, M.D. By Imoge Matthews DISCOVER THE WORLD OF BEAUTY Log i Discover Lear more Brad ew iteratioal articles ad much more Prit & Olie Ask for a sample copy 1955 2015 OF PASSION EXPERIENCE AT YOUR SERVICE Supported by 60 years of experiece, the resources to formulate your future. 6 Eglish/Germa Cotets: Editorial 5 Names & News 6 Visit us at Cosmetic Busiess i Muich Jue 10-11, 2015 Hall 3, Booth D 18 Iterview A coversatio with Nilesh Shah, 8 A coversatio with Tracy Doherty, 10 Techical Articles Whe ski is gettig o i years 13 Oe igrediet that solves all the eye 19 cotour cocers Cosmetics Cotract Maufacturig: 22 A Bird's Eye View Use of Plat ad Huma Stem Cell Extracts 26 i Cosmeceutical Ati-Agig Products News & Talk A coversatio with Dr. Fracois Bouto, 30 Treds & Markets Ski ageig: the evolutio of the 34 ati-ageig tred Sara Speaks The Promise of Stem Cells 35 for Ski & Hair Rejuveatio New Igrediets 38 New Products 40 Formulatios 41 Packagig & Machies 43 Evets Beyod Beauty Paris 46 Cosmetics Packagig 46 Advertiser s Idex 47 Market-Place 48 Evet Caledar 51 Impressum 47 7/8 Eglish/Germa Cotets: Editorial 5 Names & News 6 Iterview A coversatio with 11 Floria Preuße, Dipl. Ig. (FH), Techical Articles The Sigifi cace of Homeostasis 16 o Ski Agig Uique Multifuctioal Polyurethae 22 Film Formers for Creatig Log Lastig ad Vibrat Hair Styles Specialty Silicoes Provide Log-Lastig 30 Color ad Uique Sesory Experiece Color Cosmetics: Their Ati-Agig Effi cacy, 33 Issues, Opportuities ad Iovatio Treds & Markets Treds i ethic cosmetics: 36 targetig the eeds of a growth demographic New Igrediets 37 New Products 39 Formulatios 42 Packagig & Machies 44 Evets CosmeticBusiess i Muich 45 i-cosmetics Brazil 45 i-cosmetics Korea 46 Advertiser s Idex 47 Market-Place 48 Evet Caledar 51 Impressum 47 RAW MATERIAL GUIDE 2015 20 Volume No. BRODATECH Special Rossow - Headquarters, FRANCE - Tel: +33 (0)1 41 21 87 87 - cotact@rossow.fr - www.rossow.fr Rossow USA - New Jersey, USA - Toll free: +1 (855) 776-7769 - cotact@rossow-usa.com - www.rossow-usa.com Jue 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 July/August 2015 23. JAHRGANG / VOLUME NO. 23 INTER-EURO MEDIEN GMBH Euro Cosmetics P.O.B. 440255 D-80751 Müche/Germay Phoe: +49 (0) 89 / 36 03 74 27 Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 32 66 75 53 ifo@eurocosmetics.de www.eurocosmetics.de