improved daylight defense with micro-encapsulated technologies for the highest sun protection and skin health benefits. professional training manual dermalogica.com 4578
improved Daylight Defense training manual table of contents education Introduction The Importance of UV Protection Regulatory Guidelines Micro-encapsulation Delivers Ultimate Protection UV Smart Booster Technology Introducing Dermalogica s Oleosome Technology Improved Daylight Defense Products 2 3 4 5 5 6 8 products Improved Solar Defense Booster SPF50 Improved Oil Free Matte SPF30 Improved Ultra Sensitive Tint SPF30 Improved Oil Free Matte SPF30 Regulations Questions and Answers 9 10 11 12 13 14 professional.dermalogica.com 1-800-831-5150 in the USA 1535 Beachey Place, Carson, CA 90746 USA London KT22 8JB United Kingdom Dermalogica, 2012 No portion of this manual, or any of the parts thereof, may be duplicated in any format without prior written permission from Dermalogica.
introduction In 2006, Dermalogica transformed the way skin care professionals and consumers thought about sun protection by introducing the Daylight Defense System. This series of new products delivered UV protection with skin care benefits, and the formulations were so elegant they could be used in place of your daily moisturizer. Our Daylight Defense System positioning was clear: 1) SPF should be worn 365 days a year (not just during summer months) to help shield against ever-present UV rays, 2) sun protection formulations must include ingredients that enhance skin health, and 3) the application of sun protection is as critical to any home care regimen as cleansing. Daylight Defense featured high performance ingredients that eliminated the chalky, thick, greasy formulas commonly associated with SPF products. We combined the latest in sunscreen technology with sophisticated ingredients to provide maximum UV protection, while treating each skin s specific condition. These new, sophisticated formulations allowed clients to apply sun protection while actively treating skin issues including skin aging, oiliness, and sensitivity. In addition, select products contained exclusive UV Smart Booster Technology, containing antioxidant vitamins C and E, to help actively diffuse free radicals when protection against them is needed most. The International Dermal Institute continually researches the latest scientific breakthroughs and ingredient technologies to ensure our formulas are delivering the best results possible on skin. In doing so, we have discovered new methods that will, once again, revolutionize how the industry approaches sun protection. This, combined with new national and international regulations, has allowed us the opportunity to innovate and improve our Daylight Defense products. education Our position and goals are the same: the application of SPF should be a mandatory part of a daily skin health regimen, and products should optimize sun protection while enhancing skin health. Dermalogica 2
the importance of UV protection regulatory guidelines Every moment we are exposed to daylight adds up like money in the bank the problem is the payoff. That means unprotected skin will inevitably exhibit premature aging, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, a repressed immune system, and the potential for skin cancer. According to the World Health Organization, one in every three cancers diagnosed is a skin cancer and, according to Skin Cancer Foundation statistics, one in every five Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime. The best defense is to limit daylight exposure and protect skin with Broad Spectrum sunscreen and other protective measures, such as shade, clothing and good common sense. UV Radiation and the Skin UVA UVB Epidermis Dermis The global regulatory climate is ever changing. To that effect, we are committed to the rules and regulations different countries develop. In 2011, the United States Food and Drug Administration (US FDA) released a final rule on sunscreen labeling and testing. This Final Rule will take effect by the summer of 2012, but consumers may begin to see changes to sunscreen labels before the effective date. (Refer to page 13 for details on these new regulations). After many years of reviewing scientific data, the FDA developed a protocol for UVA protection. Passing this test shows that the product provides UVA protection that is proportional to its UVB protection, making it a broad-spectrum product. Dermalogica products with sunscreens have been sent to independent laboratories to ensure that we comply with the appropriate ratio of UVA to UVB protection in order to claim Broad Spectrum. They are also in compliance with European standards of UVA to UVB protection. The US FDA has also proposed a new rule, which, if finalized, would limit the maximum SPF value on sunscreen labels to 50+ due to insufficient data proving SPF values higher than 50 provide greater protection than products with SPF50. Proactively, we have formulated all our sunscreen-containing products with a cap at SPF50. Subcutaneous Layer UV radiation is part of the electromagnetic (light) spectrum that reaches the earth from the sun. It has wavelengths shorter than visible light, making it invisible to the naked eye. These wavelengths are classified as UVA and UVB with UVA being the longest. The longer the wavelength, the more penetration power it has. Both UVA and UVB penetrate the atmosphere and can affect skin function. UVA rays penetrate through clouds and glass, going deeper into the skin than UVB rays. We ve known for a long time that UVA rays can cause photoaging in the form of wrinkles and pigment spots. Now more recent studies show that UVA damages keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, where most skin cancers occur, and may in fact be the first step in developing skin cancer. 3 Dermalogica 4
micro-encapsulation delivers ultimate protection Dermalogica uses two sophisticated technologies to boost product performance, ensure the highest level of protection and maintain the elegant skin care feel of our sun protection formulas. 1. UV Smart Booster Technology The sun has powerful effects on the skin, eyes and the body in general. Sometimes a sunscreen is not enough to battle the damaging effects of UV radiation. Research has shown that UV rays cause skin reddening, DNA damage, and also trigger formation of free radicals, which wreak havoc on cellular material. Free radicals, also known as Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) are unstable molecules capable of altering DNA, enzyme function and other critical processes. Free radical formation in skin, along with the damaging effects of UV rays, ultimately results in sun-induced skin changes such as pigmentation, wrinkling, actinic keratosis, and even skin cancer. 2. Oleosome Encapsulation Technology Oleosomes are naturally-occurring spheres of emollient oils and Vitamin E found in Safflower Seeds. These unique molecules can deliver active ingredients such as sunscreens, directly to the skin surface, and release them over time to ensure the maximum skin benefits. These qualities are especially relevant when formulating with chemical sunscreens because they allow us to achieve a high SPF rating while using fewer sunscreen agents, lessening the chance of sensitivity and providing an elegant feel and wearability. Dermalogica s new Solar Defense Booster SPF50 and Oil Free Matte SPF30, with Oleosome Technology, can deliver much more UV protection without unwanted oiliness or chalkiness. how oleosome technology works For enhanced photoprotection against harmful UV rays and free radicals, we have incorporated antioxidants into formulas via our revolutionary UV Smart Booster Technology. We have encapsulated essential antioxidant vitamins C and E into a microcapsule that activates only when needed. In this case, these vitamins are released when exposed to UV rays, delivering enhanced photoprotection when it is needed most. Oil sunscreen emulsifiers how uv smart booster technology works Water UV Smart Booster Capsule Dermalogica Daylight Defense with UV Smart Booster Technology UV Rays Emulsifiers interfere with sunscreen ac4vity at higher SPFs. Oleosome/emulsifier Oleosomes can be loaded with sunscreens and act as a natural form of emulsifier Each UV Smart Booster microcapsule contains an active complex of vitamins C and E. Upon application, the UV Smart Booster remains inactive on skin. When UVA and UVB rays (ultraviolet light) strike skin, the UV Smart Booster bursts, releasing the vital vitamins onto skin. This provides enhanced photoprotection, free radical protection and maximum solar defense against the sun s rays any time skin is exposed to daylight. Less emulsifiers means higher SPF 5 Dermalogica 6
new and improved daylight defense products The International Dermal Institute is constantly reviewing recent scientific findings for improvements that can increase skin health results. In order to optimize skin health results and comply with mandatory changes from the US FDA, United Kingdom and Europe s regulations, we have created new and improved formulations of our popular Daylight Defense products. To reflect these formula improvements, we are transitioning four Daylight Defense products into their respective skin condition segments. New packaging will reflect the coordinating segment to further enhance the skin care professional s prescription of a cohesive product regimen for specific skin conditions. As always, Dermalogica products are free of Mineral Oil, Lanolin, artificial fragrances, colors and S.D. alcohol. summary of changes product old name new features Solar Defense Booster SPF50 Solar Defense Booster SPF30 Increase of SPF from 30 to 50. Includes UV Smart Booster Technology and Oleosome Technology. Transitions into Skin Health System (gray packaging). Super Sensitive Shield SPF30 Super Sensitive FaceBlock SPF30 Contains UV Smart Booster Technology. Transitions into UltraCalming system. Ultra Sensitive Tint SPF30 Ultra Sensitive FaceBlock SPF25 Increase of SPF from 25 to 30. Includes UV Smart Booster Technology and UltraCalming Complex. Transitions into UltraCalming system. products Oil Free Matte SPF30 Oil Free Matte Block SPF20 Increase of SPF from 20 to 30. Includes MediBac Clearing ingredients to help control the four main factors that contribute to adult acne. Includes UV Smart Booster Technology and Oleosome Technology. Transitions into MediBac Clearing system. 7 Dermalogica 8
improved solar defense booster spf50 improved oil free matte spf30 All skin conditions. Skin prone to excess oil production or breakouts. Broad Spectrum sunscreen that adds critical UV defense to your moisturizer or foundation. Oil-free, Broad Spectrum sunscreen helps prevent shine on oily and breakoutprone skin. Boost the UV defense of prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizers by mixing equal parts together. May also be used alone for maximum SPF50 coverage. Sophisticated, non-chalky formula forms an invisible shield against skindamaging environmental assault. Antioxidants help improve skin smoothness and softness while providing added defense against skin-aging free radicals. Active ingredients: Avobenzone, Octinoxate. UV Smart Booster Technology: an encapsulated complex of antioxidant vitamins C and E; scavenges UV-induced free radicals while enhancing photoprotection. Oleosome Technology: a Safflower-derived, sunscreen-filled capsule that provides enhanced moisturization while boosting SPF. Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed and Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea): soothing botanical extracts that provide anti-enzyme and antioxidant protection. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) and Tocopherol (Vitamin E): antioxidants that improve skin smoothness and softness, and help control damage caused by free radicals. 1. Apply directly to face and neck for full SPF50 coverage, preferably 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. option: For daily sun protection, mix equal amounts of Solar Defense Booster SPF50 and prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer or Treatment Foundation in palm of hand. Apply to the face with smooth, upward strokes. To complete a professional skin treatment, apply Solar Defense Booster SPF50 following prescribed Dermalogica Toner. May be mixed with prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer or used alone. Lightweight, ultra-sheer formula absorbs surface oils to prevent shine without any powdery residue, delivering an all-day matte finish. Oil-free formula is perfect for oil-phobic clients. Helps regulate sebum production. Advanced blend helps regulate oil production and soothe inflammation. Active ingredients: Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate, Oxybenzone UV Smart Booster Technology: an encapsulated complex of antioxidant vitamins. C and E; scavenges UV-induced free radicals while enhancing photoprotection. Oleosome Technology: a Safflower-derived, sunscreen-filled capsule that provides enhanced moisturization while boosting SPF. Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer: helps absorb excess oils on skin. Niacinamide, Yeast Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice), Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B 5 ): help regulate sebum production and soothe inflammation. Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract: a powerful antioxidant with antiinflammatory properties. 1. After cleansing and toning, apply evenly and liberally to face, preferably 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. 2. May be applied after or instead of prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer. 3. For continuous protection, apply regularly. Reapply as needed after swimming or exercise. 9 Dermalogica 10
improved ultra sensitive tint spf30 improved super sensitive shield spf30 11 Environmentally-sensitized skin. Broad Spectrum sunscreen with tinted earth minerals helps calm sensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin. Contains our exclusive UltraCalming Complex. Lightly-tinted sunscreen with natural humectants in a rich base helps protect against moisture loss and blends easily on face. Ultra-fine porcelain particles of chemical-free, non-irritating Titanium Dioxide reflect the sun s damaging rays. Antioxidant vitamins and soothing botanicals help guard skin against premature aging and irritation. Active ingredient: Titanium Dioxide. UV Smart Booster Technology: an encapsulated complex of antioxidant vitamins C and E; scavenges UV-induced free radicals while enhancing photoprotection. UltraCalming Complex: helps reduce sensitivity, redness, irritation and inflammation. Sodium PCA: a moisture-binding protein that acts as a humectant to allow for more effective moisture absorption. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C) and Tocopherol (Vitamin E): antioxidants that improve skin smoothness and softness, and help control damage caused by free radicals. Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed and Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea): soothing botanical extracts that provide anti-enzyme and antioxidant protection. Melissa Officinalis (Balm Mint) Leaf and Echinacea Purpurea (Coneflower): help calm and soothe skin. Iron Oxides: provide a natural tint to formula. 1. After cleansing, toning and moisturizing, apply evenly and liberally to face, preferably 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. 2. May be applied after or instead of prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer. 3. For continuous protection, apply regularly and reapply as needed after swimming and exercise. Sensitized skin. Chemical-free Broad Spectrum sunscreen ideal for sensitized, reactive and recently resurfaced skin. Contains our exclusive UltraCalming Complex. Micronized, mineral sunscreens help shield against photodamage and provide maximum protection against UVA and UVB rays. Formulated specifically for sensitized skin using only natural mineral UV protectors (no chemical sunscreens). Antioxidants and botanical extracts help guard against premature aging and irritation. Sheer formula provides optimal hydration and helps protect and reinforce barrier lipids. Active ingredients: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide. UV Smart Booster Technology: an encapsulated complex of antioxidant vitamins C and E; scavenges UV-induced free radicals while enhancing photoprotection. UltraCalming Complex: helps reduce sensitivity, redness, irritation and inflammation. Citrullus (Watermelon), Lens Esculenta Lentil Extract and Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract: a phytochemical blend that delivers immediate hydration, soothes and strengthens connective tissues. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (Licorice) and Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) extracts: contain soothing isoflavonoid polyphenols to calm irritation. Hyaluronic Acid: helps maintain optimal hydration and improves elasticity. Dimethicone: a skin conditioning silicone that protects and reinforces barrier lipids, which are often compromised in sensitized skin conditions. 1. After cleansing and toning, apply evenly and liberally to face, preferably 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. 2. May be applied after or instead of prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer. 3. For continuous protection, apply regularly. Reapply as needed after swimming or exercise. Dermalogica 12
regulations questions and answers Below is a list of the most recent regulations on sunscreens as determined by the US FDA. Familiarize yourself with these standardizations, as you will be hearing about them in industry-related news. Understanding them will also help you when prescribing Daylight Defense products, and outlining the added skin health benefits of Broad Spectrum defense. Broad Spectrum: Only sunscreens that pass the FDA s Broad Spectrum test may be labeled as Broad Spectrum. SPF15 or higher: Only Broad Spectrum sunscreens with an SPF value of 15 or higher can claim to help reduce the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging if used as directed with other sun protection measures. Waterproof, sweatproof or sunblock claims are no longer allowed due to the fact that they overstate the effectiveness of the product. (This also applies to the term FaceBlock. ) Water resistance claims: Label must indicate whether the sunscreen remains effective for 40 minutes or 80 minutes while swimming or sweating, based on standard testing. Drug Facts Panel: All sunscreens must include standard Drug Facts information on the back and/or side of the container. What is the difference between a chemical sunscreen and physical sunscreen? Chemical sunscreens work by penetrating your skin to absorb rays and convert them into less harmful heat energy. Physical sunscreens work by remaining on the top layers of skin and reflecting and scattering damaging ultraviolet rays. It is recommended that individuals with more sensitized skin use a physical sunscreen, as there is less chance of irritation. For individuals that do not have sensitive skin, chemical sunscreens are an ideal choice. Should a client apply sun protection before or after moisturizing? Super Sensitive Shield SPF30, Ultra Sensitive Tint SPF30 and Oil Free Matte SPF30 may be applied after or instead of their prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer, preferably 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. Solar Defense Booster SPF50 may be mixed with the prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer (or foundation), or worn over prescribed Dermalogica Moisturizer for full SPF50 protection. Why has Dermalogica decided to increase Solar Defense Booster to a level of 50? Dermalogica s position has always been that the amount of chemical sunscreen required to increase the SPF only a few percentage points of protection did not warrant the increase in chemical sunscreens that were added to the formula. This is of particular concern for individuals that are sensitized by regular use of chemical sunscreens. The introduction of Oleosome Technology allows us to achieve a higher SPF rating in certain (not all) formulas by using fewer sunscreen agents, lessening the chance of sensitivity while providing a more elegant feel. In addition, our increase in our recommended amount of SPF coincides with the US FDA s increased recommendation from SPF15 to SPF30, based upon studies conducted that reveal many users are not applying enough sunscreen for adequate protection. 13 Dermalogica 14
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