Powderfeel WR One solution for multiple textures
Powderfeel WR O/W emulsifi er based on pickering emulsion technology. It allows the development from sprayable formulas to high oil load butters, highly moisturizing with barrier-repairing properties. Powderfeel WR provides high stability of cold-processed emulsions and reduces skin irritation by minimizing the use of surfactants. Emulsion instabilities Coalescence Aggregation of the droplets and breakage of the interface Irreversible process Flocculation Union of the droplets without interface disruption It may be reversible with agitation Creaming Separation of the phases by gravity effect Occurs when there is a signifi cant difference of density between the phases Ostwald ripening Increase of larger droplets and reduction of the smaller ones How Powderfeel WR works Pickering emulsion technology allows the obtaining of stable emulsions by the presence of solid particles in the droplet interface, in the absence or in low concentration of surfactants. These particles form a mechanical barrier to prevent instability processes. Oil Water + Powderfeel WR = Water Oil Solid particles
Characterization of Powderfeel WR emulsion 1. Polarized light and scanning electron microscopy Deposit of crystalline particles represented by the white ring around the droplets, shown by the polarized light microscopy. Formation of mechanical barrier that protects the emulsion against coalescence, shown by the scanning electron microscopy. 2. Viscosity curve Powderfeel WR in different conditions 1200000 1000000 800000 600000 400000 200000 Notes Brookfi eld LV Viscometer. * 1 TF2.5 / * 2 TF5.0. 0.90% laureth-7 + 0.50% sorbitan oleate. Powderfeel WR % change (in water) 0 0 2 4 6 8 10 % Powderfeel WR Addition of vegetable oil (Powderfeel WR 4.12% + surfactants 1.40%) 1600000 1400000 * 2 1200000 1000000 800000 600000 400000 200000 0 0 10 20 30 40 50 * 1 % Sunfl ower seed oil * 1 ph variation (Powderfeel WR 4%) 90000 80000 70000 60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Addition of ethanol (Powderfeel WR 4%) 80000 70000 60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0 0 10 20 30 40 50 ph % Ethanol
Efficacy Clinical assessment corneometry and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) 21 female volunteers Ages 18-50 years Application on the forearm Powderfeel WR 3% Surfactants *3 0.5% Water (up to 100%) Preservative T0: initial T2: after 2h T4: after 4h T6: after 6h 22% of moisturization increase after 2 hours Hydration increased by 18% after 4 hours compared to control Skin barrier repair TEWL 0 T2-T0 T4-T0 T6-T0-5 % in relation to basal -10-15 -13-20 -25-22 -25 Note * 3 0.35% laureth-7 + 0.15% sorbitan monooleate.
Benefits High emulsion stability in cold process Multiple textures from spray to butter 22% increase of skin hydration 25% improvement of skin barrier Wide range of applications compatible with wide range of ph, concentration of ethanol and up to 40% of oil phase Easy-to-handle Application Cream, butter, lotion, sprayable lotion, cream-gel and serum. For formulations with oil phase above 20% it is recommended to check the process described in the product literature. Stability and compatibility Stable at ph: 5-10 Can be heated up to 50 C Compatible with a wide range of ethanol concentration up to 40% Compatible with high concentration of oil phase up to 40% May be incompatible with cationic systems Can decrease the viscosity in the presence of high load of electrolytes In homogenizer, do not exceed 30 minutes in up to 3000 rpm Concentration of use Main emulsifier: 2.0-5.0% Co-emulsifier or sensory modifier: 0.5-2.0% INCI Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate (and) Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
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