Gabriel & Co. Our US correspondent Deborah Yonick identifies distinct jewellery trends at the JCK and Couture shows this year. M.K. Diamonds & Jewelry Richline Group 38 solitaire INTERNATIONAL JUNE 2015
From updated classics to wearable technology, the major mid-year jewellery shows in Las Vegas during the last week of May revealed the top trends to follow into 2016. Business was good for many vendors at JCK at Mandalay Bay and Couture at the Wynn. On opposite ends of Las Vegas Boulevard, exhibitors at both locations commented that attendance was off. Some also cited that jewellers were hesitant to make appointments this year, worried about time constraints and the large real estate to cover, especially for buyers running between both venues. While retailers remained focused on their buying strategies, they continued to seek out the new and different in updated classics and on trend styles. Updated classics Favourite styles like solitaire and halo jewellery, cuffs and bangles, and stackable rings with a twist excited jewellers. New was injected in texture and finish, metal and gem colour, special details around prongs, negative space designs, hidden surprises, and the ability to customise. Manufacturers explored different ways of reinterpreting bestsellers. In the important bridal category, one of the most popular trends is yellow gold. Gold is experiencing a major comeback since its popularity in the 1980s, and it s largely because brides are looking for the classic, traditional style of the yellow gold ring to complement the popular yellow gold trend in the jewellery world, hailed Allison Goodman, director of merchandising, Frederick Goldman, New York. She cites rope, bead and twist detailing on the radar, in unique settings that elevate the centre stone. In fact, she stated that the new takes are in the details. Especially strong are stackable rings for both bridal and fashion, said Goodman. Trends for colour, individuality and personalisation make stackable rings a classic that begs to be continually reinvented. It s one of the biggest trends in jewellery. You can mix and match, layering a variety of colours and styles. Popular designs are mixing metal and gem colours, stone cuts, shapes and sizes. Dancing diamonds and multiple diamonds set to create big diamond looks for less remain popular, said Laura Gladfelter, brand manager, Alison and Ivy, division of Fantasy Diamond, Chicago, who sees this trend continuing. Swarovski Make In India Shines At JCK Las Vegas For the twelfth consecutive year, the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) presented the India Pavilion at the JCK Las Vegas 2015 show, one of the largest, glamorous and most prestigious trade events. The India Pavilion comprised 67 top gem and jewellery exporters, encompassing plain and studded diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery. Some of India s finest jewellers were handpicked by the Council to showcase stunning creations at the venue. Spread across 107 booths, the India Pavilion was placed at Bayside Level 1. Developed specially to display at the JCK show, the leading Indian manufacturers and retailers of the gem and jewellery industry showcased the best the country has to offer. GJEPC chairman Vipul Shah commented, We are pleased to present the India Pavilion at JCK Las Vegas where leading gem and jewellery exporters got an opportunity to launch their collections for the global customer. The promotional efforts towards increasing exports to the US through the JCK Las Vegas show, Buyer Seller Meets, and ongoing dialogues with key players in the US, value-additions in the form of design excellence and trends forecast seminars for Indian manufacturers have resulted in a better understanding and exchange between the two regions and the positive state of the industry stands testimony to the Council s efforts. Le Vian Frederick Goldman Swarovski solitaire INTERNATIONAL june 2015 39
Gabriel & Co. Stuller Stuller Imperial Pearl Jane Bohan Swarovski Gem Visions 2016 There s a strong back-to-basics direction, especially for rubies, emeralds and sapphires, reported Maren Rosen, vice president of Bridal and Jewelry, Stuller, Lafayette, Louisiana. She cited greater interest in colour diamonds set in rhodium-plated designs, both contrasted and tonal colours in black, brown, blue, yellow, and some pink. A huge theme at the shows, jewellers also saw more brands and brand building manufacturers offering personalised jewellery options. On trend styles The fine jewellery industry has proven it can jump on trends faster than it thinks with companies small and large, designers and classic manufacturers exploring different ear, ring and body jewellery treatments. Bridging the gap between fashion and fine, popularised on red carpets and runways, it was evident that this trend has gone viral. Big trends in earrings included front-to-back and mismatched, and ear jackets, climbers and cuffs. In rings, different takes on midi and double-finger rings, and horizontal stacking rings that emulate the multi-finger ring look. And, there is definitely more attention on body adornment, cross body pieces, hand jewels, and head adornment in precious and mixed materials. A classic trend that s wildly popular is pearl jewellery. The influence of pearl is far-reaching, extending beyond jewellery into accessories, fashion, cosmetics, even home décor, commented Kathy Grenier, marketing director, Imperial Pearl, Providence, Rhode Island. In pearl jewellery, designs are fresh and exciting be it organic, geometric, hard-edged with soft lines, or wearable in interesting new ways. The landscape of design options has grown along with a new pearl jewellery profile and audience. Hot colours Pantone colours have proven to be significant trend forecasters, a powerful tool for communicating colour, and an array of gemstones are able to complement this 40 solitaire INTERNATIONAL JUNE 2015
palette, particularly from gem families with lots of options like quartz, garnet, tourmaline, beryl, topaz, spinel, opal, sapphire, and diamond. Blue gems remain a market favourite, with turquoise being important. Many jewellers are exploring a range of semiprecious gems to translate popular colours into fashion designs. Fashion s big 70s push is inspiring the use of turquoise and other hard stones in bold looks. We re seeing strong statements for gem cabochons, bigger pieces in milky cabs, faceted and flat cabs for rings, earrings and pendants ranging from simple prong details to framed in a halo of gems, said Rosen. While Marsala was hailed Pantone Color of the Year, Amethyst Orchid is the jewel in the crown for fall. Warm peach and soft pink hues also are prevalent. In fact, LeVian, of chocolate diamond fame, hailed Peach Morganite Gem of 2016 at its red carpet revue during JCK Las Vegas. The Great Neck manufacturer also sees 2015 s Gem Blueberry Tanzanite continuing to trend into the New Year, as well as Sea Blue Topaz, Pomegranate Garnet and Spumoni Opal. LeVian s fine jewellery forecast also cites design directions trending on the market that are expected to be important into 2016 including Chocolate Deco, lacy fishnet, neo geo (angular shapes and rounded looks in open airy designs), square links, pleated motifs, and gladiator loops. The Austrian-based international brand, Swarovski, launched its annual trends forecast, Gem Visions 2016, to the retail market during the JCK show. It cited trending design motifs and important directions including endless swirls and eternity knots, wings, geometric play, outlines and illusions, techno lace, hardware glam, maxi chains, classic reborn, pearls revisited, same but different (mismatched), body art, and build-it-yourself. Pantone colours have proven to be significant trend forecasters, a powerful tool for communicating colour, and an array of gemstones are able to complement this palette. solitaire INTERNATIONAL june 2015 41
For 2016, we see the emergence of wearable tech as a major innovation and influence, with a functional link to health and entertainment. Alison and Ivy Exciting and new Perhaps the biggest buzz at the JCK show had to do with wearable technology. An advocate of joining tech developers with jewellery designers and manufacturers, Swarovski sees wearable technology as the most exciting new thing brewing in the industry. Wearable tech was the word on everyone s lips at the last Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, said Cheryl Jester trend and communications manager for Swarovski in New York. We ve been keeping a close eye on the infiltration of technology into jewellery and luxury accessories. For 2016, we see the emergence of wearable tech as a major innovation and influence, with a functional link to health and entertainment. Wired magazine anticipates that wearable technology will be as big as the smartphone. What makes this megatrend interesting for us are signs showing that alongside technological advances, a new aesthetic approach is turning these gadgets into jewels or fashion accessories. Earlier this year, Swarovski launched its wearable Shine collection, featuring the Activity Tracking Crystal. Designed in collaboration with Misfit Wearables, this nine-accessory collection includes bracelets, watchbands and pendants designed with Swarovski crystals. Available in a white and violet face, it is a large, faceted centrepiece crystal that counts steps, measures calories burned, and tracks sleep patterns when used with Swarovski s smartphone app. For JCK, Richline Brands, New York unveiled smart jewellery designs and hinted at partnerships since announcing distribution deals with Omate and Cuff earlier this year. The manufacturer is introducing new products featuring differentiated technology from companies including Say and MightyCast, as well as an assortment of compatibles that offer more stylish, luxury alternatives for use with existing wearable products like Fitbit and Jawbone. Le Vian Thyreos Vassiliki Swarovski Gem Visions 2016 42 solitaire INTERNATIONAL JUNE 2015
Richline Group Imperial Pearl We felt it was essential to balance entirely new innovations as well as elegant options for existing products, explained Mark Hanna, chief marketing officer, Richline. On the one hand, there are several popular fitness wearables that we can help make more stylish. On the other, recent advances in technology have made it possible for us to create jewellery for the elegant lifestyle that can do far more than track fitness. Richline introduced two tiers of product offerings: fine jewellery that primarily consists of designs made with precious metals, and fashion jewellery that offers more affordable designs made with bronze and base metals. In addition to fitness tracking, many of Richline s designs will offer features centred on personalisation, notification, and discreet security. Hanna said that designs bring a combination of style and tech to an untapped audience of fashion forward jewellery shoppers. Fiera di Vicenza s Trend Carpet at JCK At the JCK Las Vegas Show, the ICE Italian Trade Agency, in collaboration with Fiera di Vicenza (FDV) and Reed Exhibitions, organised the Italian Trend Carpet Show, an event promoted by the Italian ministry of economic development with the aim of highlighting Made in Italy jewellery to buyers, opinion leaders, trend setters and media in the US market. Forty-eight companies took part in the event that was held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center, the futuristic location where the JCK show is staged. The Italian Trend Carpet Show promoted the distinctive elements of the Italian jewellery production, offering the right visibility to all the 200 Italian companies present at JCK Las Vegas, Luxury Las Vegas and Couture. The Italian jewellery sector is quintessential in representing Italy s creativity and high-end design. Additionally, Italy is seeing a resurgence in the US market due to a radical revision of prices, style, trends, innovation and technology, said Carlo Angelo Bocchi, trade commissioner ICE Los Angeles, adding that, These factors combine into transmitting to the American customer, the experience and the exclusivity of an Italian piece of jewellery. We are very pleased by the renewed collaboration between ICE Italian Trade Agency and FDV, under the auspices of the Italian government, to support Italy s best artisan production and to offer excellent opportunities for Italy s jewellery manufacturers to meet the demand of international buyers from the industry s most strategic companies, said Corrado Facco, managing director of FDV. Madstone solitaire INTERNATIONAL june 2015 43
India LAUDED at Diamond Empowerment Fund s Gala On the sidelines of the JCK Las Vegas show, the Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) held a major gala and fundraising (auction) event called Diamonds in the Sky which honoured India s Prime Minister Narendra Modi and the Government of India with its highest recognition, the 2015 Global Empowerment Salute. Presented for India s global leadership and contributions to democracy, development and the growth and expansion of the international diamond industry, the gala celebrated diamonds and the positive impact made by the diamond industry worldwide. The DEF is a global non-profit organisation whose mission is to support transformative initiatives in diamond communities throughout the world. It believes education is a key component to sustainable development, which, in turn, is essential to empower individuals, communities and society towards future economic prosperity, stability and advancement. Their biggest consumer initiative is Diamonds Do Good. Taking centre stage were student scholars representing DEF s Diamonds Do Good mission of developing the next generation of leaders in diamond communities around the world through access to higher education. Chantal Uwiringiyimana, one of DEF s scholars from the African Leadership Academy and currently a University of Arizona undergraduate, said, Having grown up in a poor Rwandan community, education has been the key to opportunity I am now on track to become one of the few African female engineers. Ashna Mehta, student ambassador for Veerayatan, a DEF beneficiary based in India, said, Without access to education, the cycle of poverty is perpetuated and difficult to break free from Veerayatan enables youth to reach their full potential and become leaders and change-makers in their communities. De Beers Group CEO Philippe Mellier, a co-founder of DEF, stated, A diamond is a rare and powerful symbol for both those who give and receive one. A diamond is also a powerful symbol for those who work with them. Our diamond communities are committed to furthering the building blocks for long-term prosperity through health care, infrastructure, access to education, and employment. De Beers thanks DEF for helping make diamond moments by showing the world how Diamonds Do Good. Accepting DEF s Global Salute was the Indian union home minister Rajnath Singh, who said, It is good to know that the Diamond Empowerment Fund is actively working to help create education programmes for children and for people working in the diamond industry in India. Dignitaries present included David Ramsay, minister of industry, tourism and investment for Canada s Northwest Territories; Peter Vician, deputy minister of industry, tourism and investment for Canada s Northwest Territories; Robert Bouchard, minister of legislative assembly for Canada s Northwest Territories, Nkoloi Nkoloi, deputy permanent representative of Botswana to the United Nations; and Masego Nkgomotsang, first secretary of economic affairs for the embassy of the Republic of Botswana in Washington, DC. DEF co-founder Russell Simmons helped introduce a live auction of four exclusive experiences that brought the evening s total amount close to $1 million. These funds will support DEF s beneficiaries. Grammy Award-winning artist Kelly Rowland, who rocketed to fame as part of Destiny s Child, helped close the evening with her performance. Said Phyllis Bergman, DEF s president and CEO of Mercury Ring, We are thrilled with the success of the evening and look forward to growing DEF s mission. Joining premier presenting sponsors Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, Inc., De Beers Group of Companies, Rio Tinto Diamonds, and Signet Jewelers Limited (Kays Jewelers, Jared the Galleria of Jewelry, Zales Jewelers) were partner sponsor Rosy Blue Group, patron sponsor Le Vian Group, benefactor sponsor KP Sanghvi and empowerment circle partners Forevermark, Asian Star, Exelco, and Leo Schachter. 44 solitaire INTERNATIONAL JUNE 2015