A pl A pl A Splash A!Spla LOUR!Spla 54 RBS SOLITAIRE DEsIGN AWARDs 2012 plash COLOUR A OU OUR! Splash COLOU OU INTERNATIONAL september 2012 The audience at the glittering RBS Solitaire Design Awards ceremony held at Grand Hyatt Hotel was treated to a rhythmic and rocking opening performance by Stephen Devassy, the lead keyboard player for music maestro AR Rahman, accompanied by saxophonist Rhys Sebastian, and percussionist Gautam Sharma. In his address, GJEPC chairman Rajiv Jain gave a brief about the competition s theme Colour Splash and informed that such competitions encouraged manufacturers to raise the level their skills and think innovatively to create globally appealing designs. Young designers are the future the industry and it s important that they are encouraged. Larger brands are tapping younger designers and turning to them for ideas, thus promoting creativity, Jain said. Chief guest Biju Patnaik, regional head - Asia, International Diamond & Jewellery Group, RBS N.V., gave away the awards to the winners. This year, the Solitaire Design Awards A Splash COLOUR! theme was Colour Splash. Colour was chosen primarily because it denotes freedom, joie de vivre, happiness, and a spectrum other emotions. Colour emphasises form, highlights contrasts and creates spatial effects. Above all, colour defines individuality. The competition was divided into two sections: Competition A for IIJS domestic & international exhibitors; and Competition B for non-iijs exhibitors such as students, artisans, designers, etc. Competition A drew in 93 entries in the Formal Wear category and 23 in Daily Wear. Competition B saw a total 223 entries. It was a true test the industry s artistic skills and creative expression. The participants dipped into nature s amazing colour palette and used diverse shades, hues, and pigments to imaginatively blend colourful elements into jewellery. The entries in Competition A used colourful gemstones, enamelling, and electroplating, precious and non-precious materials, and so on to craft some fabulous pieces.
! ash R! The entries were judged by a fivemember panel: jewellery historian Dr Usha Balakrishnan, jewellery designer Farah Khan Ali, renowned painter Bose Krishnamachari, Gehna Jewellers proprietor Sunil Datwani, and fashion photographer Vishesh Verma. The competition was fierce and it was a tough call for the judges to decide on the winners and finalists. Take a closer look at the winning entries and the finalists. A Splash!C COLOUR OU INTERNATIONAL september 2012 55
{ FIRST PRIZE Shankesh Jewellers ANUPAMA The divine gold pendant encapsulates a pretty landscape straight out nature. Symbolising a peaceful co-existence between the creatures and environment. COMPETITION A { D A I L y W E A R SECOND PRIZE Sangam Diamonds BLACK IS IN A ravishing gem-studded peacock pendant shows f its rich feathers hand woven with gold threads. 56 INTERNATIONAL september 2012
RBS SOLITAIRE DESIGN AWARDS 2012 THIRD PRIZE Royal Chains THE COFFEE CUP Hold it in your hand or wear it on your finger, the understated and delicate cfee cup ring crafted in 18-karat yellow gold features white enamel with gold lifting. The ear the cup is decorated with round and taper baguettes, while the brown stone represents the brewing cfee. CRITICS AWARD Sangam Chains THE NEW NEON An adorable, intricately cut acrylic manchette highlighted with cabochon sapphires and gold. INTERNATIONAL SEpTEmbER 2012 57
Finalist Bapalal Keshavlal CRISPY COLOURS Uber cool crisp danglers accented with a line colourful gemstones. The organic shapes are studded with black and white diamonds. Finalist BR Designs AN ODE TO FABERGE Inspired by the acclaimed Faberge Eggs, these finely crafted 18-karat yellow and white colourful ear pendants use rose cuts and diamonds and glass enamel to recreate the magic. Finalist sangam Diamonds USEFUL TRANSITION The multicoloured ring is decorated with hexagonal motifs rimmed with diamonds which showcase delicate floral patterns in yellow and white gold. 58 INTERNATIONAL september 2012
{ RBS SOLITAIRE DEsIGN AWARDs 2012 FIRST PRIZE Ansaa TANGO WITH TURQUOISE A one-f gold anklet showcases a well-choreographed performance the dancing turquoise peacocks. COMPETITION A { F O R M A L W E A R SECOND PRIZE BR Designs ELEGANZA 18-karat white and pink gold studded with diamonds represents the floral burst one witnesses in summers. The flowers articulated in rubies can be detached and worn as a pendant. INTERNATIONAL september 2012 59
THIRD PRIZE Jewels Emporium ENLIGHTENMENT The 18-karat gold pendant with Champleve enamelling unfolds nature s drama a blooming lotus rising through the muddy waters. The lotus, a symbol enlightenment, represents the power staying calm and contented in a chaotic world. The pendant necklace is set with tsavorites, pink sapphires, pearls, turquoise, diamonds, and amazonite beads. CRITICS AWARD Binny s Designer THE POWER OF POSITIVITY The multicoloured cocktail ring emits positive energy with the inner ideas and thoughts represented by larger coloured stones, and the smaller shining stones reflect the outcome our good deeds and ideas. It is all about thinking right and moving ahead with loads willpower that will help us make our lives colourful and easy. 60 INTERNATIONAL september 2012
RBS SOLITAIRE DEsIGN AWARDs 2012 Finalist sama Jewellery SHIMMERING BRILLIANCE The 18-karat gold bracelet is inspired by the splash water by a falling object articulated with a large fluorite. The shimmering splash water is created with diamonds, blue and yellow sapphires, blue topaz, peridots, amethysts and tsavorites. Finalist Dheeman Diamonds APPLE, AN ACCOLADE Art Nouveau ring showcasing a female s hands that gracefully hold a bright enamelled apple studded with diamonds and coloured gemstones. Finalist Rachna Jewellers HEM RACHNA The colourful bracelet symbolises life. The organic gold bracelet comes alive with fresh and beautiful gem-set and enamelled flowers that are supremely eye-catching. INTERNATIONAL september 2012 61
{ COMPETITION B FIRST PRIZE The Evolution By Meghna Bag Representing the time when the cosmos was created including the earth, water, heaven, vegetation, creatures, the bracelet captures harmony in the cosmic chaos brilliantly. This armlet in 18-karat white gold with beautiful cutwork is decorated with aquamarine, peridot, emeralds, topaz, rubies, citrine in prong settings. { S K E T C H E S SECOND PRIZE Swirl Colours By Bimal Koley It is said that the most powerful whirlpools are created in narrow, shallow straits. Swirls fast flowing water indicate the momentum life. The swirl colours in the 18-karat white gold and diamond studded bangle stand for the different emotions we experience in life. Amethyst, pink sapphire, citrine, blue topaz, roholite, yellow sapphire and peridot add colour to the swirls in the curvaceous bangle. 62 INTERNATIONAL september 2012
RBS SOLITAIRE DESIGN AWARDS 2012 THIRD PRIZE Amazing Creature By Hariharan T.S. Inspired by the fins a fish, these 18-karat white gold danglers are super luscious. Set with semi-precious coloured stones and diamonds, the fin-shaped earrings showcase the dazzling display colours that show up when the sunrays fall on the shimmering, gentle creatures the sea. CRITICS AWARD Global Warming By Bhavin Rupani This piece jewellery comes with a strong, social message. The 18-karat white gold broad cuff decorated with diamonds, citrine and yellow sapphires points to the global warming that is causing ecological and environmental havoc in the world. INTERNATIONAL september 2012 63
Judges Response Dr. Usha Balakrishnan Jewellery historian Dr. Usha r Balakrishnan is the only art-historian indian jewellery in the world. she has extensively studied and documented all facets the history indian jewellery and gemstones. she is the author Dance the Peacock: Jewellery Traditions india, which is the most definitive and comprehensive reference work on the subject, and Jewels the nizams, the only publication on this world-renowned collection royal indian jewellery. Usha has catalogued indian jewels in collections around the world and is a consultant to jewellery houses, museums and private collectors. Since this was your first time as a judge at Solitaire Design Awards, how would you describe your experience? It was an honour and privilege to be invited as a judge for the Solitaire Design Awards one the most coveted and prestigious design competitions in the jewellery industry. The opportunity to view and evaluate current design directions and sensibilities was indeed very exciting. Also, the opportunity to meet and exchange thoughts with other like-minded individuals all leading pressionals in their field was indeed stimulating. Congratulations are due to the Solitaire Design Awards team for putting together a superb day interaction and brainstorming. How was the quality the entries? The quality the entries ranged from good to excellent. In any competition this nature, there will always be a range. The interesting shift was to see designs that attempted to break with the conventional and shift to the sphere contemporary couture without compromising on technique and skills that are hallmarks Indian jewellery. What according to you should the industry do in order to retain its Made in India feel? Should designers marry traditionally rich craft heritage with newer formats? The Made in India touch is what will set Indian designs apart from the rest the world. It is very important to retain individual identity. In the Indian context, this can be done in myriad ways. One, course, is the opportunity to marry traditional and modern; another is to retain the purity tradition; or, to interpret contemporary designs in the context traditional techniques etc. Whatever the nature the marriage, it is important to note that just like every other major jewellery producing country takes pride in retaining and showcasing its own indigenous designs and skills, it is important that India also does the same. We can either stand apart and carve a unique niche for the Made in India identity, or merge into an incognito crowd mass-production wherein it does not really matter who makes it or where the product is made. Is there a crying need to incorporate design, techniques, knowledge metals & materials at the degree level in jewellery designing courses? If the jewellery industry in India is to carve a strong niche for itself in the future and retain its cutting-edge, it is very important to develop programmes that bring together in equal importance design, techniques, knowledge materials and manufacturing skills at every level education. Since jewellery education has been formalised, it is important to inculcate all the atelier skills in students. One cannot be a designer without knowledge material and manufacture; one cannot market jewellery if one doesn t know most intimately, the product that one is marketing; one cannot develop a brand identity for a product unless one can speak about design inspiration, details materials and manufacturing techniques. So, yes, this holistic and all-rounded curriculum is very important to produce graduates who can take this industry into the future and also ensure its survival. sunil DaTwani Proprietor, Gehna Jewellers At the young age 16, Sunil set his heart on making it big in the jewellery industry. Without a family background in the trade, he knew that the journey ahead was formidable. But he was determined to go ahead. Academics took a backseat and instead, he took an intensive course in studying gemmology. He also worked closely with the designers and craftsmen to get hands-on experience in learning the intricacies jewellery making. His ever-growing thirst for knowledge to learn everything about jewellery is insatiable. He is an expert in analyzing jewellery and market trends that helps him to cater to customers who like unusual and fusion jewellery. Today, the fruit his labour, Gehna Jewellers, is a force to reckon with. It was a wonderful first-time experience to judge the Solitaire Awards, and I was delighted to interact with other members the jury. The event was beautifully organised and the ambience created was wonderful. The quality entries was superlative. It is heartening to see amazing talent in India and it is for the industry to tap the unending potential budding jewellery designers. I think it is nearly impossible to refrain from using Indian elements in our jewellery. Our cultural influences are too strong. They steer our minds and influence our design sensibilities. For instance, my new collection at Gehna has an exciting mix elephants and peacocks set with uncut diamonds, champagne diamonds, rubies, emeralds and South Sea pearls. New formats are being cleverly incorporated in design and being very well received by the customer. Creating newer formats in jewellery design cannot happen in isolation. It is important for a designer to know techniques, knowledge metals and materials, and have a strong theoretical background. 64 INTERNATIONAL september 2012
RBS SOLITAIRE DEsIGN AWARDs 2012 Vishesh Verma Fashion photographer Vishesh Verma graduated as a graphic designer from the National institute Design (NiD), and soon after worked towards becoming a fashion photographer. Listed on national television as the youngest india s Top Ten fashion photographers, his work in advertising and editorial has grown along with his fashion work. shooting for clients in india and abroad, his works have been featured in Elle, L Officiel, Cosmopolitan, Harper s Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, Filmfare, Verve and more. he has also shot editorials for international labels like Moschino, Louis Vuitton and Chanel. some his famous jewellery campaigns have been done for the World Gold Council, De Beers, Rosy Blue, Joyalukkas, and TBZ. When I accepted the invitation to judge the Solitaire Design Awards, I didn t know what to expect. I was pleasantly shocked to see the level quality and craftsmanship that had gone into the making the jewellery pieces. I feel good to be part the event primarily because this reason. I am also happy with the final selection. India has a great and unique tradition in jewellery. It is a tradition that is alive. We are a country that believes in adornment, so minimalism doesn t work for us. Having said that, I feel we have to adapt to newer formats and silhouettes. As a fashion photographer, I feel the importance jewellery is not its value, but its design statement. There has to be a story behind each piece jewellery that is created. If I had to gift jewellery, I would pick out a piece that has a great story to tell, and is innovative in form. BOsE KRisHnaMaCHaRi Painter a graduate sir J.J. school art, Mumbai, Bose Krishnamachari is one india s most renowned artists. his canvases are vibrant and colourful and his abstract paintings are a mix contrasting designs and texture. Krishnamachari also curates exhibitions and projects. He is driven by a desire to support the younger generation indian artists. Currently, Bose is busy organising for the festival Contemporary Visual arts, Kochi-Muziris Biennale, which is scheduled to debut in December 2012 and will last for three months. This was my first time as a judge at Solitaire Design Awards, and I must say it was a memorable experience and a worthy award for a field that is growing in importance in India. I also felt the overall quality was extremely good across the board, but course there is always room for improvement. I was happy with the selection process and final decisions, the judging process was well-managed and it was an enjoyable experience throughout. Jewellery design has always been strong in India, but today designers are much more influenced by what is happening internationally and are beginning to create a new design language that is both Indian and at the same time international in appeal. FaRaH KHan ali Designer and owner, Farah Khan Fine Jewellery Farah Khan ali is a recognised jewellery designer and gemmologist india. a topper from the Gemological institute america in santa Monica, California, Farah creates jewels that are visually impactful and appealing. With 18 years experience in the field jewellery designing, Farah has clients ranging from Bollywood celebrities to top business families india. Distinctive in style, Farah s jewellery is bold, flamboyant and adventurous, yet they have an underlying feminine charm. Billy Alexander sxc.hu INTERNATIONAL september 2012 65
RBS SOLITAIRE DESIGN AWARDS 2012 1 st Standing Tall Swarovski Gems bagged the first prize for the RBS Solitaire Stall Design Awards, while Platinum Guild International (India) stood second. Royal Italian came third, and Gold Star and Crafts to Jewellery were co-winners the critics award. The stalls at the IIJS were judged by renowned architect Rattan Batliboi, pressor industrial design and art Devika Krishnan, and founder & managing director, Lemon Design, Dipendra Baoni. 2 nd 3 rd Critics Award Critics Award 66 INTERNATIONAL september 2012