TRENDS IN BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE and the technologies that make them possible Vol.3 Jason Dearden-Watts Senior Technical Development Manager Personal Care Dana Smith Laboratory Development Chemist Personal Care
Stand 429
Remove labels that are based on simple characteristics like age, gender, geographical location and sociodemographics In the US, 67% of Millennials and 52% of Generation X consumers feel more diversity has a good impact on society Brands can reposition to reflect acceptance, unity, and equality Mintel
Google Trends
Google Trends
Google Trends
Google Trends
Every day cleaning Define Yourself Universal youthful Condition your hair Rebalance Your to Make Your with Multifaceted moisturisation from the Outside to Individual Scent Uniqueness Shine Texture Restore the with no sticky Through Individual Within Issues with this Roll on deodorant
Every day cleaning Define Yourself Universal youthful Condition your hair Rebalance Your to Make Your with Multifaceted moisturisation from the Outside to Individual Scent Uniqueness Shine Texture Restore the with no sticky Through Individual Within Issues with this Roll on deodorant
Water Aqua - Solvent 49.78 Merquat 2001 Polyquaternium 47 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 0.50 Merquat 2003 PR Polyquaternium-53 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 1.00 TEGO Betaine F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Evonik Industries Amphoteric Surfactant 13.50 Erylite F 8030 F Erythritol Jungbunzlauer Humectant 2.00 STEPAN-MILD LSB Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate; Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Stepan Anionic Surfactant 30.00 Saliguard PBC Phenoxyethanol; Benzyl alcohol; Chlorphenesin Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00 NINOL CAA Dimethyl Lauramide / Myristamide Stepan Nonionic Surfactant 1.00 Vanilla & Tonka Bean Fragrance Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.40 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride - Thickening Agent 1.00 Sodium Hydroxide (20% solution) Sodium Hydroxide - ph Adjuster 0.02
Water Aqua - Solvent 49.78 Merquat 2001 Polyquaternium 47 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 0.50 Merquat 2003 PR Polyquaternium-53 Lubrizol Conditioning Agent 1.00 TEGO Betaine F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Evonik Industries Amphoteric Surfactant 13.50 Erylite F 8030 F Erythritol Jungbunzlauer Humectant 2.00 STEPAN-MILD LSB Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate; Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Stepan Anionic Surfactant 30.00 Saliguard PBC Phenoxyethanol; Benzyl alcohol; Chlorphenesin Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00 NINOL CAA Dimethyl Lauramide / Myristamide Stepan Nonionic Surfactant 1.00 Vanilla & Tonka Bean Fragrance Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.40 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride - Thickening Agent 1.00 Sodium Hydroxide (20% solution) Sodium Hydroxide - ph Adjuster 0.02
Milder than SLS / SLES Rich and Creamy Foam Biodegradable Sulphate Free
NINOL CAA Fragrance solubiliser Foam boosting Enhances viscosity & mildness 3000 2000 1000 Viscosity Building PEG 40 HCO 0 0.3 0.6 % NaCL
2003 PR Guar / Amodimethicone Aminopropyl Phenyl Tirmethicone PQ-55 Quaternium 91, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl alcohol 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.10% 0.2% Improves foam stability Provides dense creamy foam 60% Improvement in wet combing 40% Improves the softness & 20% smoothness of hair Enhances colour protection
Zones
New launches The rise of masks in Europe 400 350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0 2016 2017 2018 Mintel GNPD
New launches Europe's top 5 mask markets 80 France Germany Russia Poland UK 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 2016 2017 2018 Mintel GNPD
Popular mask applications Other, 4.29% Eye Care, 4.94% Sun - After Sun, 1.82% Hand/Nail Care, 4.94% Foot Care, 7.79% Face/Neck Care, 76.23% Mintel GNPD
Market examples Zones DERMA9 Masks GLAMGLOW - Masks
Formulation Concept Zones I T S Digit-all Open your eyes to Send acne down a black Highlight your dull day Digit-all detox for the youthful skin hole with this charcoal infused T Zone mask with a shimmer brightening S Zone mask future you
Formulation Concept Zones I T S Digit-all Open your eyes to Send acne down a black Highlight your dull day Digit-all detox for the youthful skin hole with this charcoal infused T Zone mask with a shimmer brightening S Zone mask future you
Zones - S Trade Name INCI Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 49.45% Carbopol Ultrez 30 Carbomer Lubrizol Rheology Modifier 0.25% Gold Mica Mica Sandream Impact Colourant 4.50% SURFAC G995V Glycerin Surfachem Humectant 39.50% TEGO Cosmo C250 1-Methylhydantoine-2-Imide Evonik Industries Brightening 1.00% HyaCare 50 Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Evonik Industries Plumping Active 1.00% TEGO Cosmo C100 Creatine Evonik Industries Moisturising 1.00% TEGO Pep 4 Even Saliethanol TEGO Solve 61 Tetrapeptide-21; Glycerin; Butylene Glycol; Aqua Phenoxyethanol Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate; Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate; Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate Evonik Industries Collagen Boosting 1.00% Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% Evonik Industries Solubiliser 1.00% Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.30%
Zones - S Trade Name INCI Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 49.45% Carbopol Ultrez 30 Carbomer Lubrizol Rheology Modifier 0.25% Gold Mica Mica Sandream Impact Colourant 4.50% SURFAC G995V Glycerin Surfachem Humectant 39.50% TEGO Cosmo C250 1-Methylhydantoine-2-Imide Evonik Industries Brightening 1.00% HyaCare 50 Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Evonik Industries Plumping Active 1.00% TEGO Cosmo C100 Creatine Evonik Industries Moisturising 1.00% TEGO Pep 4 Even Saliethanol TEGO Solve 61 Tetrapeptide-21; Glycerin; Butylene Glycol; Aqua Phenoxyethanol Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate; Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate; Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate; Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate Evonik Industries Collagen Boosting 1.00% Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% Evonik Industries Solubiliser 1.00% Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.30%
Technical Focus - TEGO Cosmo C250 Reduces melanin content 1.2 Increase in skin brightening (L*) relative to vehicle [%] Brighter appearance 0.9 0.1% Enhanced reflectance Hot or cold processable 0.6 0.3 1% Kojic Acid TEGO Cosmo C250 After 8 weeks Water soluble After 4 weeks INCI: 1-Methylhydatoin-2-Imide
Technical Focus - Carbopol Ultrez 30 Cushioned and rich skin feel Excellent product aesthetics Easy to disperse Good electrolyte tolerance Low ph tolerance INCI: Carbomer
Technical Focus - Sandream Impact Skin radiance and brightening Subtle through to glitter effects Adding subtle colour, healthy glow Wide range of substrates and coatings INCI: Depending on substrate and colour
New launches The popularity of Spa products 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 Mintel GNPD
New launches The popularity of Spa products 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 Mintel GNPD
New launches 136% The popularity of Spa products 180 160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2016 Mintel GNPD
Spa application areas - 2017 Foot Care 4% Face/Neck Care 4% Liquid Soap 4% Sets 8% Bar Soap 3% Sun - Sun/Sunbed Exposure 2% Body Care 29% Hand/Nail Care 13% Shower Products 19% Bath Additives 14% Mintel GNPD
Spa Claim - 2017 Exfoliating 4% Aromatherapy 5% Long-Lasting 4% Time/Speed 8% ph Neutral 4% Paraben Free 15% Vitamin/Mineral Fortified 3% Botanical/Herbal 26% Moisturising / Hydrating 16% Ethical - Animal 15% Mintel GNPD
Market examples Chillax Elemis spa@home CND - Spa
Formulation Concept Chillax Head Face Body Hands Feet Rich, kind care for Indulge your skin Rub away your Treat dry cuticles A rich feel cream your scalp and for with a calming stresses and with a healthy for luxury your comfort coco chill-out release your free hemp butter relaxation cleanse spirit with the relaxing power of hemp Oil
Formulation Concept Chillax Head Face Body Hands Feet Rich, kind care for Indulge your skin Rub away your Treat dry cuticles A rich feel cream your scalp and for with a calming stresses and with a healthy for luxury your comfort coco chill-out release your free hemp butter relaxation cleanse spirit with the relaxing power of hemp Oil
Chillax Head - Formulation Trade Name Inci Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 73.50% SURFAC DL Panthenol Surfachem Conditioning 0.50% LACTIL Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid Evonik Industries Moisturising 2.00% VARISOFT EQ 100 Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 1.00% SURFAC CS Cetearyl Alcohol Surfachem Stabiliser 3.00% TEGIN M Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries Emulsifier 3.00% VARISOFT BTMS Cetearyl Alcohol; Behentrimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 4.00% VIATENZA Apricot PO10 Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-10 Esters Aldivia Emollient 1.00% Grapeseed Oil Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50% Hemp Oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Aldivia Conditioning 1.00% Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50 SURFAC ARC 165 Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate Surfachem Emulsifier 4.00% Saliethanol Phenoxyethanol Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% HairFlux Ceramide NG; Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil; Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil Evonik Industries Scalp Health 1.00% Kaolim Kaolin - De-toxifying 5.00% Red 33 (1% soln.) Red 33 - Colourant 0.30% ELLA 34 Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.50%
Chillax Head - Formulation Trade Name Inci Supplier Function w/w % Deionised Water Aqua - Solvent 73.50% SURFAC DL Panthenol Surfachem Conditioning 0.50% LACTIL Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid Evonik Industries Moisturising 2.00% VARISOFT EQ 100 Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 1.00% SURFAC CS Cetearyl Alcohol Surfachem Stabiliser 3.00% TEGIN M Glyceryl Stearate Evonik Industries Emulsifier 3.00% VARISOFT BTMS Cetearyl Alcohol; Behentrimonium Methosulfate Evonik Industries Conditioning 4.00% VIATENZA Apricot PO10 Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-10 Esters Aldivia Emollient 1.00% Grapeseed Oil Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50% Hemp Oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Aldivia Conditioning 1.00% Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil AAK Emollient 0.50 SURFAC ARC 165 Glyceryl Stearate; PEG-100 Stearate Surfachem Emulsifier 4.00% Saliethanol Phenoxyethanol Salicylates & Chemicals Preservative 1.00% HairFlux Ceramide NG; Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil; Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil Evonik Industries Scalp Health 1.00% Kaolim Kaolin - De-toxifying 5.00% Red 33 (1% soln.) Red 33 - Colourant 0.30% ELLA 34 Parfum Givaudan Fragrance 0.50%
Technical Focus - HairFlux Bio-inspired Ceramide Improves the overall scalp health by reducing itching, dryness & erythema Outstanding repair efficacy on chemically treated hair INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Ceramide NG
Technical Focus - Varisoft EQ 100 Conditioning agent with improved sustainability Excellent conditioning on both wet and dry hair Superior manageability, lubricity and softness BTAC Better VARISOFT EQ 100 Better -1-0.5 0 0.5 1 Build-up later Build-up directly Manageability Antistatic Body / volume Shine Curl retention Dry feel Dry comb Detangling dry Wet feel Wet comb Detangling wet Skin feel after rinse Rinseability Skin Feel INCI: Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate
Technical Focus - Hemp Oil Omega 6 rich oil Regenerating Anti-inflammatory 173% increase in product launches* INCI: Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil *Mintel GNPD(2016-18 vs 2013-15)
SUPERFOOD S & CUSTOMISABILE BEAUTY identified as top global trends for 2018* *Cosmetic Business
nutrient-rich foods considered to be beneficial for health and well-being. Safflower oil use has increased 20% every year for the past decade The rise of the super food 50% OF uk CONSUMNERS WANT PRODUCTS CONTAINING NATURAL INGREDIENTS Products containing pineapple have doubled in the past two years Mintel GNPD
CUSTOMISABLE PRODUCTS CUSTOMISATION IS NOT AN OPTION, IT'S A MUST-HAVE FOR THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY. MINTEL HOWEVER A THIRD (34%) OF PEOPLE IN THE UK BELIEVE SUCH PRODUCTS ARE EXPENSIVE AND THAT CUSTOMISATION WILL LEAD TO INFLATED PRICES. 48% OF ADULTS IN THE UK ARE INTERESTED IN PERSONALISED BEAUTY Mintel
Customisable face cream Harness Your Superpowers with SUPER Food Serums Feed Your skin with 4 of your 5 a day using super skin foods for sought after nourishment Strip back dull skin to reveal your glow with invigorating powers of coffee and kukui Purify the face from daily grime with a skin friendly piña colada wash Baste yourself in buttery rich warm skin spices including turmeric, curry leaf & cinnamon Younger Fresher Cleaner Silica has never been so sexy smooth
Customisable face cream Harness Your Superpowers with SUPER Food Serums Feed Your skin with 4 of your 5 a day using super skin foods for sought after nourishment Strip back dull skin to reveal your glow with invigorating powers of coffee and kukui Purify the face from daily grime with a skin friendly piña colada wash Baste yourself in buttery rich warm skin spices including turmeric, curry leaf & cinnamon Younger Fresher Cleaner Silica has never been so sexy smooth
STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH
Rich touch, with discreet afterfeel Co-surfactant properties for detergent formulas Solubilises Salicylic Acid
STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH
STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH
InuMax Advance Retinol HyaCare 50 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH
8% retinol inulin encapsulated Stable, targeted retinol delivery Low irritation compared to free retinol Deep skin layer bioavailability
InuMax Advance Retinol HyaCare 50 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 Phytosphingosine HCL Herbapurifine TEGOSOFT SH
Synergistic Antimicrobial and Anti inflammatory activity Naturally occurring lipid in the stratum corneum Strengthens microcapillaries to improv blood circulation Before application 60 days after application
InuMax Advance Retinol HyaCare 50 STEPAN-MILD L3 ERYLITE F8030 TEGOSOFT SH Phytosphingosine HCL Herbapurifine TEGO Enlight TEGO Pep 4 Even
30 Lightening effect [ITAºC] Sodium phytate (rice bran) stimulates natural exfoliation, reduced melanin White mulberry antioxidant inhibits 0.6 0.3 Vehicle 2% TEGO Enlight Vehicle 2% TEGO Enlight tyrosinase Base Line After 8 weeks
TRENDS IN BEAUTY AND PERSONAL CARE and the technologies that make them possible Vol.3 Jason Dearden-Watts Senior Technical Development Manager Personal Care Dana Smith Laboratory Development Chemist Personal Care Sources: Mintel Global New Products Database (GDPR), Mintel Presentations (Various), Cosmetic Design-Europe, Cosmetics Business, Evonik Industries Nutrition & Health, Lubrizol, Stepan,