AUTUMN/WINTER 2013-14 Paris 1 The Bomber 1. Hakaan 2. Givenchy 3. Sacai 4. Peachoo Krejberg 5. Manish Arora 6. Givenchy The bomber jacket started to emerge as a new fur silhouette in both New York and London but it was in Paris that we saw the trend fully form and interestingly, the bomber was shown with feminine dress shapes for a new positioning on this sportswear classic. Hakaan mixed fur with leather for an edgy look while at Givenchy, full glorious fur was worked into über cool cropped styling for a modern take on the chubby. Loved this look! At Sacai, a Mongolian lamb epaulette was added to create a caped effect and Peachoo Krejberg opted for decorative trim detail to create a more retro-inspired boho feel, while at Manish Arora, the silhouette was streamlined and given a high stand collar for dramatic appeal.
Paris Trend 2 Print & Pattern Mix 1. Dries Van Noten 2. Tsumori Chisato 3. Paul & Joe 4. Lanvin 5. John Galliano 6. Manish Arora As we have seen throughout the collections, decorative looks have been a key trend but what looked new in Paris, was the mixing and matching of fur with print and pattern for a modern take on bohemian dressing. At Dries Van Noten and Paul & Joe, muted jacquard prints looked lovely worked back to recoloured and patchwork furs, while a patterned fur bolero and Japanese styled obi sat pretty alongside a 40s print at Tsumori Chisato. Lanvin integrated the season s signature butterfly print onto a sexy strapless number in ponyskin for a contrasting graphic look and at John Galliano, a black-on-black dress silhouette saw fur mixed with a subtle floral jacquard. Print paired with print made a bold statement at Manish Arora but the look was softened with a pale grey feathered fox lining that added an undeniably luxurious touch.
Paris Trend 3 Modern Retro 1. Lanvin 2. Mui Mui 3. Louis Vuitton 4. Andrew Gn 5. Christian Dior 6. Rue du Mail Throughout the collections, retro-inspired silhouettes have had a subtle yet constant presence and in Paris, what comes through clearly, is a sense of modernity rather than a literal interpretation of an era. 40s-inspired; Lanvin updates the classic fur chubby with a moto jacket feel and graphic colour blocking, while at Mui Mui and Louis Vuitton, a full fur swing coat is belted for a modern take on New Look and a classic silhouette is reworked into electric blue and charcoal grey adding a subtle striped effect. 60s-inspired; At Andrew Gn, the classic A-line sleeve coat is given a parka feel in black-on-black jacquard with fur hood, while Christian Dior breathes new life into a knee-length fit & flare dress by choosing modern grey lamb and creating a DB front. 70s-inspired; At Rue du Mail, a 70s boho look is given a clean contemporary feel in paired down black velvet layered with an edge-toedge cropped fur for a less-is-more appeal.
Paris Trend 4 Skirts & Dresses 1. Allude 2. Akris 3. Celine 4. Vionnet 5. Guy Laroche 6. Garath Pugh At the Paris collections, skirts and dresses took on a modern luxurious feel with styles ranging from simple and streamlined to the ultra dramatic, now positioning fur separates into every woman s fantasy wardrobe. Allude kept things clean with a simple A-line skirt, putting the emphasis on colour and texture, while at Akris and Celine, length and form added a dramatic touch yet still kept a sense of understated elegance. Colour blocking and fur placement made an impact at Vionnet in contrasting black & white, while at Guy Laroche, bold colour and asymmetrical design had an ultra modern appeal. The showstopper dress silhouette was at Gareth Pugh, where a theatrical floor-length sheepskin creation took contemporary eveningwear to a whole new level. Loved it!
Paris Trend 5 Textured Lamb 1. Jean Paul Gaultier 2. Cederic Charlier 3. Akris 4. Guy Laroche 5. Peachoo Krejberg 6. John Galliano Textured lamb is next winter s key fur handle as we saw it used prominently throughout the collections across almost all silhouettes, but what stuck out in Paris, was the dark edginess with which it was used. We loved Jean Paul Gaultier s astrakhan hoodie lined in a vibrant alphabet print and Cederic Charlier s two-tone jumper for a more junior sportswear take, while at Akris, the jacket/skirt ensemble in black-on-black epitomised the fur 2pc trend that has been emerging throughout the shows. The moto jacket at Guy Laroche and streamlined collarless coat style at John Galliano were absolute winners in electric ultramarine, while Peachoo Krejberg upped the ante with an ultra edgy sleeveless dress silhouette in jet black textured lamb for a directional appeal.
Paris Trend 6 Motorcycle Styling 1. Chloe 2. Lyubov 3. Lie Sang Bong 4. Damir Doma 5. Jean Paul Gaultier 6. Haider Ackermann As we know, motorcycle jacket styling has been around for a few seasons but there is something about reworking the silhouette with fur that gives it a whole new lease on life. Paris did it best, with so many desirable interpretations that it would be hard to choose just one. Chloe s moto gilet is a top pick, mixing long and shorthaired fur with fabric trim, this style is a must-have for next winter. Lyubov and Lie Sang Bong both give us fantastic fur/leather offerings that would be a prized possession in any girl s wardrobe, while at Damir Doma, a hybrid reefer/moto jacket style looks clean and contemporary. At Jean Paul Gaultier, a fur lined crocodile moto silhouette takes luxury to the max, while Haider Ackermann adds a soft touch appeal to a skinny leather style with a plush lamb lining.
Paris Trend 7 Multi-fabricated 1. Sacai 2. Lie Sang Bong 3. DROMe 4. Lie Sang Bong 5. Hermés 6. Loewe As we saw in New York, the piecing together of fur and fabric to create a partitioned effect has become a strong trend but in Paris, this idea was taken one step further with the use of multiple fabrications in one garment for a bolder graphic statement. At Sacai, three different fur types were added to a nylon puffa jacket to create a subtle colour blocked effect, while Lie Sang Bong and DROMe opted for black-on-black variations. Lie Sang Bong played with contrasting textures for a chevroned cape look while at Loewe, crisscross piecework created a pattern effect for a full fur coat. Hermés introduced metallics and bright red into the mix for a bold graphic look that mixed matt and shine with the soft touch of fur.
Paris Trend 8 Longer-haired Tops 1. Vionnet 2. Dries Van Noten 3. Kavier Gauche 4. Maiyet 5. Kavier Gauche 6. Viktor & Rolf Throughout the collections, we ve seen the fur top emerge as a key silhouette and in Paris, a longer-haired incarnation worked its way to the fore adding another dimension to the look. The fur tabard was a modern update on the gilet style of seasons past; Vionnet kept a natural feel to the look while at Dries Van Noten, it was a simple feminine style in charcoal grey and Kavier Gauche chose a winter white fur layered over a lace-like laser cut leather for added interest. Maiyet opted for a short sleeve with belted waist while at Kavie Gauche and Viktor & Rolf, a more voluminous, longer sleeved version reminiscent of chubby styling came into full bloom in graphic black and white.
Paris Trend 9 Applied Design 1. Valentino 2. Collette Dinnigan 3. Garath Pugh 4. Lie Sang Bong 5. Valentin Yudashkin 6. Maxime Simoens We saw this trend begin to form in London, when Burberry used leather and metal applications to create decorative interest on ponyskin. In Paris, the theme of applied design fully emerged as a look that saw fur being used both on other fabrications to form print & pattern as well as trims and cutwork being applied to fur. Valentino created a stunning Fleur de Lis pattern on mesh for a dress silhouette while at Collette Dinnigan and Gareth Pugh, fur striping was applied to a lace top and full length coat shape. Lie Sang Bong used laser cutting and leather appliqué on a tabard while at Maxime Simoens, fur pieces were used to create a scale effect on a skirt for a textural appeal. At Valentin Yudashkin, fur was interwoven with bright silver metallic leather for an edgy update on a classic flight jacket silhouette.
Paris Trend 10 Black & White Looks 1. Vionnet 2. Lie Sang Bong 3. Valentino 4. Andrew Gn 5. Rick Owens 6. Viktor & Rolf Black & white looks have been a strong trend throughout the collections and although the palette is a classic one, in Paris, the styling was anything but. Vionnet used asymmetric colour blocking on a simple shift dress, adding a silvery grey fox side placement for added dramatic appeal, while at Lie Sang Bong and Valentino, the combination was used to create graphic check and spot pattern effects. Andrew Gn played with proportion by adding an oversized collar to a Price of Wales check coat while at Rick Owens, a theatrical black & white kimono style opera coat stole the show. At Viktor & Rolf, sheared furs and Mongolian lamb were used to create a zebra-like pattern effect for an update on the classic chubby.