PRODEW P-DS-12 a Nature-inspired Moisturizer with Biostabilizing Properties 1
Contents Demand for Preservatives Technical challenge Market trend PRODEW P-DS-12 Characteristics Moisturizing property Biostabilizing effect 2
Requirement for Preservatives Fundamental properties: Antimicrobial property, broad spectrum Skin compatibility: irritation, sensitization, stinging No adverse influence on final products, ex. odor, coloration, long-term stability, Easy to handle Additional / bonus properties Natural / vegetable origin Not listed in the positive lists, provide multifunctions 3
To Establish Preservation System Combination is the key. Ingredients with different antimicorbial property profile Partition coefficient Combination with polyol such as Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol Synergetic effect 4
Ingredients with Antimicrobial Properties PCPC INCI antimicrobial effect ph range Odor Solubility Skin compatibility Methylparaben n nn Phenoxyethanol n n n Benzyl alcohol n Benzoic acid n limited Soribic acid n limited Anisic acid n limited n n Phenetyl alcohol n n Glyceryl caprylate n n Caproyl glycine n Ethanol n n Butylene glycol n Caprylyl glycol n n Ethylhexyl glycerine n n Pentylene glycol n n Preferable Undesirable 5
Product Claim Concerning Preservation Preservative free Not in the positive lists Methylisothiazolinone Phenoxy ethanol Paraben Free Natural Chemical free 6
Preservatives Trend <USA> Preservative usage in USA Methylparaben Propylparaben Phenoxyethanol Imidazolidinyl urea Benzyl alcohol Caprylyl glycol Ethylhexylglycerin Source:FDA 7
Preservatives Trend <EU> Preservative usage in EU Skincare Products Phenoxyethanol Methylparaben Propylparaben Benzyl alcohol Caprylyl glycol Ethylhexylglycerin Imidazolidinyl urea Source:Mintel GNPD 8
Free-from-Paraben Cosmetics Products in the Market -1 Example 1: Serum Ingredients: Aqua, glycerin, dimethicone, alcohol denat., isononyl isononanoate, butylene glycol, sorbitol, ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, propylene glycol, Example 2: Body balm Claims: Ingredients: free from PEG, silicone, parabens, phenoxyethanol and artificial colourants., potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, xanthan gum, levulinic acid, parfum(fragrance), galactaric acid, sodium levulin ate, stevia rebaudiana leaf/stem extract, bisabolol*, linalool**, tocopherol, citronellol**, limonene**, terpineol, sorbic acid 9
Free-from-Paraben Cosmetics Products in the Market -2 Example 3: Facial mask Claims: Ecocert-certified skincare that that can can be be trusted and and is is free free from from nasties (parabens, SLS/SLES, silicones, propylene glycol, GMO, and and synthetic fragrances); Ingredients: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice*, glycerin, sodium levulinate, sodium anisate, sclerotium gum, chondrus crispus (carrageenan), lactic acid, sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, 10
Ingredients with Antimicrobial Properties PCPC INCI antimicrobial Skin positive ph range Odor Solubility Ecocert effect compatibility list Methylparaben n nn n n Phenoxyethanol n n n n n Benzyl alcohol n nn n Benzoic acid n limited nn n Soribic acid n limited nn n Anisic acid n limited n n n n Phenetyl alcohol n n n n Glyceryl caprylate n n n n Caproyl glycine n n n Ethanol n n n n Butylene glycol n n n Caprylyl glycol n n n n Ethylhexyl glycerine n n n n Pentylene glycol n n n n Preferable prohibit to use or undesirable 11
Summary 1 To establish preservation system, combination is the key. The use of particular preservatives are decreasing; paraben-free cosmetics are becoming more popular. Especially for natural cosmetics, lack of options of antimicrobial ingredients is a big challenge for formulators. 12
PRODEW P-DS-12 a Nature-inspired Moisturizer with Biostabilizing Properties 13
PRODEW P-DS-12 Humectant, moisturizer Biostabilizing effect Booster for antimicrobials Not in the positive lists Natural Derived from amino acid Proline and fatty acid Aqueous solution, 30% active High solubility in water, easy to handle, suitable for cold-process Slight color & odor: 14
PRODEW P-DS-12 PCPC INCI Name:Sodium Caproyl Prolinate Fatty acid(capric acid) Proline Derived from L-Proline and fatty acid (natural origin) 30% Aqueous solution: High solubility in water, easy to handle, suitable for cold-process 15
Humectant Evaluation 100% Hygroscopicity curve 80% Water 60% 40% Water absorption 20% Water retention 0% 0 7 14 21 28 Days High humidity (25, 65%RH) Low humidity (25, 35%RH) 16
Hygroscopicity of Various Humectant 17
Challenge Test-1: Skin Toner (wt%) SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.10 WATER balance SORBITOL 5.00 AJIDEW NL-50(50%) 3.00 GLYCERIN 5.00 ALCOHOL 2.00 PRODEW P-DS-12(30%) 1.68 / - Dermosoft 1388ECO* 0.20 CITRIC ACID ph 5.5 100.00 *Dr. streatmans / PCPC INCI: Water, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate 18
Challenge Test-1: Skin Toner With PRODEW P-DS-12 Without 19
ph dependence Dermosoft PRODEW strain ph 1388ECO P-DS-12 E.c. P.a. S.a. C.a. A.b. 0.50%A.I. 4.6-4.7-0.50%A.I. 0.20% 5.5-0.50%A.I. 6.2-6.4 - the day to extionction 7days the day to extionction 14days the day to extionction 28days in a downward tendency Over 10 4 cfu/g on the 28th day E.c. Escherichia coli, P.a. Pseudomonas aeruginosa, S.a. Staphylococcus aureus, C.a. Candida albicans A.b. Aspergillus brasiliensis 20
Solubility 1 month Storage temp. 5 o C 25 o C 45 o C PRODEW P-DS-12 (%, active) ph 4.3 4.5 4.7 5.2 5.7 0.5 I I S S S 1.0 I I S S S 2.0 I S S S S 0.5 I I S S S 1.0 I I S S S 2.0 I S S S S 0.5 I* I* S S S 1.0 I* I* S S S 2.0 I* S S S S S Clear solution I Turbid or precipitate I* Oil drops separeted 21
Challenge Test -2:Skin Care Cream (wt%) Emollient oils 23.00 Fatty alcohols 3.80 Waxes 2.10 Emulsifiers 3.45 AMIHOPE LL 0.30 XANTHANGUM 0.20 WATER balance CITRIC ACID ph 5.8 ~ph 6.0 SODIUM CITRATE 0.20 PRODEW P-DS-12 (30%) 1.68 / - PHENETHYL ALCOHOL* 0.50 100.00 *Dermosoft PEA ECO (Dr. Straetmans) 22
Challenge Test -2:Skin Care Cream With PRODEW P-DS-12 Without 23
ph dependence Phenethyl alcohol 0.50% PRODEW strain ph P-DS-12 E.c. P.a. S.a. C.a. A.b. 0.50%A.I. 4.8-5.3-0.50%A.I. 5.8-6.0-0.50%A.I. 6.7-6.8 - the day to extionction 7days the day to extionction 14days the day to extionction 28days in a downward tendency Over 10 4 cfu/g on the 28th day Natural cream formulation E.c. Escherichia coli, P.a. Pseudomonas aeruginosa, S.a. Staphylococcus aureus, C.a. Candida albicans A.b. Aspergillus brasiliensis 24
Combination with Other Preservatives Recommended combination: Benzoic alcohol (Phenoxyethanol, Phenetylalcohol) Polylols (Butylene glycol, Propanediol) Organic acid (anis acid) Not effecitve: fatty polyol ester (glyceryl caprate, sorbitan caprylate) 25
Summary PRODEW P-DS-12 Amino acid based humectant derived from L- Proline and fatty acid 30% Aqueous solution Humectant : Good water retention capacity Biostabilizing effect Preferable:tonner, lotion, cream Not effective:cleansing formulation(facial wash shampoo) Recommended use level 0.2~1.0%(Active) 26
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Requirement for Preservation Broad antimicrobial spectra Safety PCPC positive list Natural origin(ecocert, COSMOS etc ) Odor Easy to handle 28
Challenge Test-1: Skin Toner (wt%) SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.10 WATER balance SORBITOL 5.00 AJIDEW NL-50(50%) 3.00 GLYCERIN 5.00 ALCOHOL 5.00 PRODEW P-DS-12(30%) 1.68 / - Dermosoft 1388ECO* 0.20 CITRIC ACID ph 5.5 100.00 *PCPC INCI: Water, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate With PRODEW P-DS-12 Without 29