Fision KeraVeg18
Table of Contents Marketing Trends Chemical & Physiological Composition of Hair Fision KeraVeg18 Comparisons: Amino Acid Distribution Hair Strengthening Studies Elasticity Studies Wet & Dry Combing Studies Sensory Study Antioxidant Capacity 2
Marketing Trends CAGR = 26% Source: Mintel (Jan 2010-Dec 2013 Annualized) 3
Top 15 Global Users of Keratin in Hair Care Source: Mintel 4
New Animal Keratin Products Launched to Market Organix Anti-Breakage Keratin Oil - Shampoo TRESemmé Keratin Smooth - Keratin Infusing Shampoo Miracle 7 - Keratin Daily Conditioner Andre Walker Hair - TKO Total Keratin Obsession Deep Conditioner One 'n Only Brazilian Tech - Keratin Kit Source: Mintel Organix Ever Straight Brazilian Keratin Therapy - Shimmering Keratin Oil 5
What is Keratin? Protein composed of 18 amino acids 1 Primary structural component of hair, nails & epidermis Keratin keeps hair healthy and lessens damage Amino Acids in Keratin Alanine Arginine Aspartic Acid Cysteine Glutamic Acid Glycine Histidine Isoleucine Leucine Lysine Methionine Phenylalanine Proline Serine Threonine Tyrosine 1) Obukowho, Patrick. Hair Relaxers Science, Design, and Application. Allured books. 2012. Chapter 1, page 8 Tryptophan Valine 6
Hair Structure The Cuticle outer most layer of hair, provides protection Consists mostly of β-keratin (which protects the hair fiber) Contains cysteine and other amino acids such as arginine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, threonine and tyrosine which form hydrogen bonds (H-bonds) The Cortex constitutes ~80% of hair mass, responsible for strength, elasticity & flexibility Consists mostly of α-keratins (makes up the majority of the hair fiber) Polypeptides coiled into a helical structure 3 alpha helices are bundled together to form microfibrils Microfibrils group together and are embedded in a matrix of high sulfur protein Cuticle contains β-keratin MEDULLA Cortex contains α-keratin 7
Types of Hair Damage Styling Damage Problem: Combing & brushing lift cuticles & break individual fibers Result: Hair is less manageable, can appear dull & more prone to frizz, leaving hair more susceptible to damage Chemical Damage Problem: Changing color (bleaching/dying) & shape (relaxing/perming) increases cuticle porosity & weakens hair fibers Result: Hair is difficult to style, breaks easily, can appear dull & lifeless Oxidative Damage Problem: Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generated by UV and heat treatments can damage hair & scalp Result: Accelerates aging of hair & scalp Weakens fibers & affects color Damages scalp 8
Animal Keratin Benefits & Concerns Hydrolyzed animal keratin fortifies and conditions hair. In addition, animal keratin: Increases strength Repairs damage Increases tensile strength & elasticity Improves overall quality of the hair (e.g. manageability, shine, static, fly-aways) Concerns Industry moving away from using animal ingredients Animal rights, safety concerns Solution Market needs an effective, non-animal alternative to deliver the same benefits 9
Ethical & No Animal Claims Worldwide CAGR = 10% Source: Mintel (Jan 2010-Dec 2012) 10
The Vegetable Alternative Introducing Fision KeraVeg18, the vegetable-based alternative to animal keratin Cohesive solution containing wheat & soy amino acids, with additional pure amino acids carefully selected to mimic the functional ratios in commercial human hair amino acids Pure amino acids are of vegetable fermentation origin 11
Fision KeraVeg18 Features & Benefits Features: Mimics the functional ratios in human hair amino acid Vegetable-based Natural Paraben-free Formaldehyde-free Alternative to hydrolyzed animal keratin Comprised of amino acids to promote greater penetration into hair shaft Less odorous than animal derived keratin Benefits: Increases hair strength Enhances elasticity Helps protect hair from harsh salon processes Makes hair look more shiny & healthy Improves combability of hair (wet & dry combing) Reduces static & frizz, making hair easier to style 12
Fision KeraVeg18 INCI: Wheat Amino Acids, Soy Amino Acids, Arginine HCl, Serine, Threonine Suggested Applications: Shampoos Conditioners Leave-on hair treatments Styling products Suggested Use Level: 2 5 % Comparison studies to hydrolyzed animal keratin: Amino Acid Distribution Hair Strengthening Studies Elasticity Studies Wet & Dry Combing Studies Sensory Study Antioxidant Capacity 13
Similar Amino Acid Profile Amino Acid Hydrolyzed Fision Keratin KeraVeg18 Alanine 5.30 2.72 Arginine 11.41 10.51 Aspartic Acid 8.70 6.44 Cysteine 2.00 0.20 Glutamic Acid 16.27 22.19 Glycine 7.55 8.31 Histidine 1.10 1.28 Isoleucine 2.55 2.73 Leucine 5.60 4.91 Lysine 3.95 2.87 Methionine 0.55 0.86 Phenylalanine 2.40 3.52 Proline 8.21 6.61 Serine 10.46 11.75 Threonine 7.20 9.80 Tyrosine 1.10 2.35 Valine 5.65 2.95 Total 100.00 100.00 Amino acid distribution of Fision KeraVeg18 is close to hydrolyzed keratin Values reported for hydrolyzed keratin are average values of 2 commercially available hydrolyzed keratins from different suppliers 14
Fision KeraVeg18 = 10.51% Arginine Benefits of Arginine include: Reinforces and strengthens hair fibers Helps resist hair breakage and brittleness Delivers strong conditioning properties Enhances hair and skin hydration 1. Arginine is the most nitrogen-rich amino acid Nitrogen carries a positive charge which helps arginine bond to negatively charged hair Proteins with more arginine have superior bond with hair 2. Arginine remains substantive to hair throughout harsh coloring and straightening treatments Arginine has highest positive charge in widest ph spectrum and holds well at low ph conditions Highest pka (12.5) of any amino acid, enabling molecule to retain positive charge and remain bonded to hair shaft 3. Arginine binds more water and provides intense moisturization 6 water-binding sites in molecular structure Binding and holding water helps prevent brittleness and breakage caused by dry and damaged hair 15
Hair Strength Studies Performed studies using damaged hair, resulting from common hair treatments Study 1 Caucasian Hair Damaged with a triple bleaching process Measured improvements in elasticity & strength Study 2 African Hair Damaged with a no-lye hair relaxer Measured improvements in elasticity & strength 16
Similar Performance Strength & Elasticity are 2 of the defining qualities of healthy hair: Healthy hair can better withstand frequent combing & styling forces that can otherwise break hair The elastic nature of the hair fiber can allow it to stretch during styling without becoming damaged Measuring Strength: The amount of force required to break a hair fiber Measuring Elasticity: The amount of force that can be applied to stretch the hair before it becomes damaged 17
Study 1 Details Hair Elasticity & Strength (Caucasian Hair) Category Details Test Model 90 Triple bleached Caucasian hair fibers taken from the same swatch (prior to bleaching, hair was a medium brown) Materials 2% Fision KeraVeg18 & 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed Keratin) in aqueous solutions Treatments Group 1: 2% Fision KeraVeg18 Group 2: 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin Group 3: Untreated (serves as baseline for before treatment value) Instrument(s) Treatment Methods Conditions Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester & Dia-Stron Crimp Assembly System Hair was soaked a total of 3 times in treatment solutions for 30 minutes For the first and second treatments, hair was allowed to dry for 24 hours under ambient conditions After the last treatment, hair equilibrated for an hour prior to testing. Brass crimps were then added to the ends of the individual hair fibers following Dia- Stron s methods. Tensile strength was then determined by measuring the total work required to break the individual hair fibers Water Temperature: 40 C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20 C ± 2 18
Study 1 Results for Increasing Elasticity More elastic hair is considered to be healthier and less prone to breakage from styling. Results show Fision KeraVeg18 improves elasticity up to 18%. 19
Study 1 Results for Increasing Strength The triple bleaching process weakens hair. Before & after results show Fision KeraVeg18 performs similarly to hydrolyzed animal keratin for improving strength. 20
Study 1 Caucasian Hair Stress Strain Comparison Fision KeraVeg18 displays similar strengthening properties to Hydrolyzed Keratin Compared to the placebo, KeraVeg18 allowed the hair to tolerate more force before breakage Example of average difference in stress strain curves using Fision KeraVeg18 vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin after 5 applications 21
Study 2 Details Hair Elasticity & Strength (African Hair) Category Details Test Model 90 hair fibers from no-lye relaxed African hair (originally curl type VII) (30 fibers/material) Treatments Group 1: 2% Fision KeraVeg18 in commercial shampoo & conditioner Group 2: 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin in commercial shampoo & conditioner Group 3: Commercial shampoo & conditioner (placebo) Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester & Dia-Stron Crimp Assembly System Treatment Hair was relaxed using Soft Sheen Carson Healthy Gloss 5 kit, per Methods manufacturer s instructions. After relaxing, hair was treated with 5 cycles of shampooing (1 min) and conditioning (2 min). Hair dried for 24 hours under ambient conditions. Brass crimps were added to the ends of the fibers following Dia-Stron s methods. Conditions Water Temperature: 40 C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20 C ± 2 22
Study 2 Results for Increasing Elasticity Fision KeraVeg18 improves elasticity of relaxed African hair. Elasticity is an important attribute of healthy hair. Hair with greater elasticity is considered to be healthier and less prone to breakage from styling. 23
Study 2 Results for Increasing Strength Chemically relaxing hair has been shown to significantly weaken the hair fiber. Fision KeraVeg18 is shown to increase hair strength while hydrolyzed animal keratin does not appear to be effective. Increasing hair strength can help protect hair from styling damage. 24
Study 2 African Hair Stress Strain Comparison Fision KeraVeg18 displays superior strengthening properties vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin Compared to the placebo, KeraVeg18 allows the hair to tolerate more force before breakage Example of average difference in stress strain curves using Fision KeraVeg18 vs. Hydrolyzed Keratin after 5 applications 25
Hair Elasticity & Strength Conclusions These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can: Improve elasticity for healthier hair Increase hair strength to prevent breakage Protect hair from styling damage Help damage recovery to improve hair health 26
Combing Studies Performed studies using damaged hair, resulting from common hair treatments Study 3 Wet Combing One-time bleached Caucasian hair Measured improvements in wet combing ease Study 4 Dry Combing One-time bleached Caucasian hair Measured improvements in dry combing 27
Study 3 Details Wet Combing Category Details Test Model 9 single bleached brown Caucasian hair swatches approximately 15 cm in length (3 swatches per test material) Treatments 10% SLES pre-treatment to clarify the hair 2% Fision KeraVeg18, 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed Keratin) in separate shampoo & conditioner (placebo) All three treatments were tested in triplicate Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester in combing orientation. Treatment Methods Conditions After pre-treatment, swatches were dried under ambient conditions for 24 hours. Swatches were then treated with the respective shampoos and conditioners for a total of 5 times. Combing forces were measured after 1 and 5 applications. Water Temperature: 40 C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20 C ± 2 28
Study 3 Results for Wet Combing Hair is weaker when wet. Fision KeraVeg18 made wet hair easier to comb. This can help reduce risk of hair breakage when combing & make hair easier to style. 29
Study 4 Details Dry Combing Category Details Test Model 9 single bleached brown Caucasian hair swatches approximately 15 cm in length (3 swatches per test material) Treatments 10% SLES pre-treatment to clarify the hair. 2% Fision KeraVeg18 & 2% Hydrolyzed Animal Keratin Protein (Hydrolyzed Keratin) in separate vehicle shampoo & conditioner (placebo) All three treatments were tested in triplicate. Instrument(s) Dia-Stron MTT175 Miniature Tensile Tester in combing orientation. Treatment Methods Conditions After pre-treatment, swatches were dried under ambient conditions for 24 hours. Swatches were then treated with the respective shampoos and conditioners for a total of 5 times. After treatments, swatches dried for 24 hours under ambient conditions. Combing forces were then measured after 1 and 5 applications. Water Temperature: 40 C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20 C ± 2 30
Study 4 Results for Dry Combing Hair treated with Fision KeraVeg18 made hair easier to comb. Reducing the force required to comb the hair improves manageability to help limit styling damage. 31
Hair Combing Conclusions These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can: Improve combability of wet & dry hair Reduce damage that results from excessive combing Aid in damage recovery to make damaged hair more manageable Fision KeraVeg18 is a good alternative to animal derived keratin for improving styling ease and aiding in damage recovery (repair) 32
Study 5 Sensory Study Perceivable Improvements Consumer test simulation 5 females of various descents evaluated the following parameters after 4 applications of Fision KeraVeg18 & hydrolyzed keratin Hair Characteristic Knot Removal Styling Ease Combing Shine/Luster Frizz Static 33
Study 5 Details Sensory Study Consumer Test Participants Model Details 5 females of various descents Mannequin heads with Caucasian Hair Test Materials 2% Fision KeraVeg18, 2% Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein-free Placebos: Commercial Shampoo & Conditioner Treatment Methods Conditions 10% SLES clarifying pre-treatment wash was used to ensure hair was clean. Evaluators rated the condition of dry hair based on several parameters. Heads were shampooed and conditioned for a total of 4 cycles. Subjects rated improvements in wet hair first. Hair was allowed to dry under ambient conditions for 24 hours prior to performing the dry hair evaluations. Evaluations determined on an 11-point scale from 0 (worst) to 10 (best) Water Temperature: 40 C ± 2, Relative Humidity: 50% ± 2, Room temperature: 20 C ± 2 34
Study 5a Sensory Study Results for Perceivable Improvements on Wet Hair After 4 applications, participants noticed superior improvement in the above characteristics when comparing Fision KeraVeg18 to hydrolyzed keratin. 35
Study 5b Sensory Study Results for Perceivable Improvements After 4 applications, participants noticed a similar improvement in the above characteristics when comparing Fision KeraVeg18 to hydrolyzed keratin. 36
Perceivable Improvements Conclusion These studies indicate Fision KeraVeg18 can: Conditions the hair to help remove knots Helps make hair easier to style Improves combing Increases shine/luster Reduces Frizz Decreases static Fision KeraVeg18 performed comparably to hydrolyzed animal keratin 37
Study 6 Antioxidant Capacity Amino acids can provide antioxidant protection and limit Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) damage ROS can weaken hair fibers and alter color 38
Study 6 Antioxidant Capacity Results Fision KeraVeg18 delivers similar antioxidant protection at 1% 39
ROS Protection Conclusion UV & hair treatments create oxidative stress that can damage hair & scalp Fision KeraVeg18 provides similar antioxidant protection as hydrolyzed keratin May help limit oxidative damage to the hair & scalp 40
Fision KeraVeg18 Summary INCI: Wheat Amino Acids, Soy Amino Acids, Arginine HCl, Serine, Threonine Suggested Applications: Shampoos Conditioners Leave-on hair treatments Post-treatment hair products Suggested Use Level: 2 5 % Benefits: Increases hair strength Enhanced elasticity Helps protect hair from harsh salon processes Makes hair look more shiny & healthy Improves combability of hair (wet & dry combing) Reduces static & frizz, making hair easier to style Comprised of amino acids to promote greater penetration into hair shaft Performs comparably to hydrolyzed animal keratin Helps to fortify hair, making it stronger and more elastic Decreases force required to comb both wet and dry hair, thus making it easier to comb and style Prevents damage Aids in damage recovery 41
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