Colour 2 Advanced COLOUR 1 INTRODUCTION TO COLOUR Colour
WORKSHOP CONTENT Hair Science Colour Chart Tone and Reflect High-lift and Bleaching Application Techniques Colour Scenarios
HAIR SCIENCE The three layers of the hair shaft will be individually affected when applying colour Cuticle -The cuticle is the outer layer of the hair shaft. It consists of hard, flattened, overlapping, colourless, scales-like cells. When a temporary colour is performed colour molecules attach to the outer scales and for more permanent colours the cuticle is opened and colour molecules penetrate through this layer to the cortex Cortex - The cortex makes up 80% of the hair s bulk, and is important in determining such physical properties as elasticity, strength and texture. Permanent colours are mainly deposited in the cortex and will either stay in this area for the duration of the colours life or slowly be washout as the colour ages. High lift colours remove natural hair pigment (melanin) colour from the cortex and are replaced with artificial pigment. Medulla -The medulla is the centre core or hollow of the hair, it serves no purpose in human hair and in some cases maybe absent. There is a very minimal amount of colour deposit in this layer.
COLOUR MOLECULES SIZE Each colour molecule has a different size: Bleach is the smallest: Permanent Colour is slightly larger: Semi Permanent Colour is larger again: Temporary Colour is the largest:
DEPOSITING COLOUR ON THE HAIR SHAFT Colour molecules will penetrate the hair shaft in varying degrees depending on the strength and type of colour product being used
REMOVING COLOUR FROM THE HAIR SHAFT There are two types of melanin removed from the hair shaft: Eumelanin Black and brown in colour Pheomelanin - Red in colour Eumelanin is removed from the hair first, followed by Pheomelanin resulting in the hair becoming lighter. Highlift permanent colours can remove melanin and deposit colour at the same time to create the desired tone.
Colour products physical and chemical effects on the hair Colour Product Physical Effect Chemical Effect Temporary Deposits colour and adds tone No peroxide used so the colour sits on the outer layer of the hair shaft (cuticle). Last approximately 1 shampoo Semi- Permanent Deposits colour and adds tone and shine. In some cases highlight to prelightened areas No peroxide used so the colour sits on the outer layer of the hair shaft (cuticle). Last approximately 4-6 shampoos (in some cases longer depending on product) Demi permanent Deposits colour and adds tone, shine and darkens highlighted or prelightened areas. Usually does not lighten hair Low percent peroxide allows colour molecules to partially enter the cuticle layer and last in the hair approximately 4-6 weeks Tint and High lift tint Natural colour is removed and artificial colour deposited. Can lighten or darken the hair 1.9 12% Peroxide can be used. The ammonia opens the cuticle and the lightener and hydrogen peroxide lighten the natural pigment while depositing the artificial pigment. Need to grow this colour out.
CONTRAINDICATIONS A contraindication is something that will have an ill effect on the clients hair condition, scalp or the ability to achieve the desired result. A contraindication is a factor that increases the risk involved with a procedure or service. Example of possible contraindications: Presence in hair of metallic, compound or vegetable based dyes Previously chemically restructured (permed or straightened) Highly bleached, damaged or porous Scalp abrasion, infection or allergy You must always carry out a skin test to check for irritants and allergies and also test the hairs porosity for strength prior to commencing with a colour service.
COLOR DOES NOT REMOVE ARTIFICIAL PIGMENT Each hair colouring process has it's own set of variables. If the hair was previously coloured, the formula becomes slightly more complicated as you must take into account the artificial pigment already on the hair. In this case it's imperative you know that colour does not remove artificial pigment, so if you want to lighten already coloured hair...you're going to need bleach...and it will lighten slower than the natural re-growth.
THE COLOUR CHART Identify.. the different areas of the colour chart (colour families) differences between semi and permanent colour charts the numbering and lettering systems of different colour charts how and when to use the colour chart the reflects ratios, mixing and timing virgin or retouch high lift ranges toning levels
REFLECT COLOURS Reflect colour is the colour that is reflected from natural or artificially coloured hair such as red, gold, violet, orange, ash, matt, mahogany or brown. A reflect colour can be any of these colours or combination of colours from the colour wheel. Most colour product manufactures use a numbering or letter system to indicate what level or intensity of reflect colours are in the colour product. For colour companies that use the numbering system the number after the / indicates the reflect colour or if there are two numbers then the first is the major and the second is the minor reflect colour 6/7 or 6/71 Depth Reflect Major reflect Minor reflect
COLOUR WHEEL YELLOW WARM GREEN ORANGE BROWN BLUE RED COOL VIOLET
COLOUR CHART ACTIVITY From the colour chart you have been provided : 1. Name the base shades? 2. Name the reflect groups? 3.Name the high-lift shades? 4. Give 3 examples of neutralising colours for: Yellow Orange Red 5. Name 3 concentrate colours?
Base Level Underlying pigment Toner 1 Black 2 Dark Brown 3 Medium Brown 4 Light Brown 5 Dark Blonde 6 Medium Blonde 7 Light Blonde 8 Very light Blonde 9 Extra light blonde 10 Lightest Blonde Deep red Red Red/orange Orange Orange/yellow Yellow Pale yellow Palest yellow Deep green Green Deep Blue Blue Blue/violet Violet/purple Pale Violet
DETERMINING CLIENT S NATURAL BASE SHADE To determine the natural hair color, take a ½" square section of hair and hold it, allowing light to pass through. Take the manufacturer s level swatch and fan out the hair strands. Place the swatch near the scalp, making certain that the hair nearest the scalp is compared with the scalp as well as the strands further out. You should also consider if the hair is clean, as natural oils will darken the hair. Also if the client has a lighter colour on the ends E.g. previous high-lift colours. The base shade may also look darker than normal.
UNDERLYING PIGMENT+ ARTIFICIAL COLOR = FINAL RESULT Your clients finished hair colour is a result of you choosing the correct artificial colour to neutralize or enhance the underlying pigment. In some cases you will want to reduce the visibility of a underlying pigment E.g. Tone the brassiness (yellow) from a highlift colour OR provide a rich red base to a bright copper fashion colour.
COLOUR BALANCING There are two methods commonly used for balancing or refreshing an existing colour. 1. Once the permanent colour has been applied and commenced or near the end of the processing time you will need to wet down the mid lengths and ends with water and than emulsify the permanent colour through to the ends. 2. Once the permanent colour has been applied and commenced or near the end of the processing time you will need to mix up a semi or demi permanent colour which matches the permanent colour and apply this colour through to the mid lengths and ends The length of time the refresher colour is required to process will be dependent on the degree of fade on the ends of the hair and the manufactures instructions. Most salons will include, when doing a colour service, a post colour treatment. The treatment is designed to close down the cuticle and lock the colour into the hair shaft.
TYPES OF LIGHTENING PRODUCTS There are a rang of lightening products on the market these include: High-lift Tint Bleach Powder Bleaching Cream Oil Bleach (Not as common) Most hairdressing product companies have a high-lift range that will consist of one or more of these products Some include bleaches that lift and tone in one process Each will have there own manufactures instructions which need to be closely followed.
THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING A LIGHTENING PRODUCTS?? Is the colour is to be applied on-scalp or off-scalp How many levels of lift are required Is there is an existing artificial colour Is the hair extremely damaged Is their a high percentage of grey hair Is the scalp sensitive Is the client in a hurry What is the cost of the service
HIGH-LIFT PERMANENT COLOURS Most colour product manufacturers have a High-Lift range. These colours are different from normal tints as they have a higher percentage of ammonia and can be used instead of bleach when lightening. High-lift colours will: Lift the natural colour 4-5 levels Require you to use 9 or 12% peroxide (Depending on colour range) Need to be mixed using 2parts developer to 1 part product Be applied from mid-lengths to ends first, than applied to the roots (Virgin application only) Processed for 45 minutes 50 minutes Always follow manufactures times). Lift natural colour as well as tone Not remove artificial colour (Will need to use bleach to do this) Give a warmer natual blonde as apposed to bleach which will give you maximum lightening
BLEACHING PRODUCTS Bleach is used to lighten hair. The bleach reacts with the melanin in hair, removing the colour in an irreversible chemical reaction. The bleach oxidizes the melanin molecule. The melanin is still present, but the remaining molecule are less visible. Bleach reacts more readily with the dark eumelanin pigment than with the phaeomelanin, so some gold or red residual colour may remain after lightening. Hydrogen peroxide is one of the most common developing agents. The peroxide is an alkaline solution, which when mixed with bleach opens the hair shaft to allow the bleach to react and remove the melanin.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF USING POWDER BLEACH WHEN PERFORMING A LIGHTING SERVICE? Advantages are Colour can lighten quickly. (This will depend on the peroxide strength). Some products can lift and tone in the one process Good for off scalp applications such as foiling or streaks Removes difficult to remove built up artificial colour Can lift more than 4 levels Disadvantages are Can be damaging to hair if left on for extended periods of time Can be irritating to skin and scalp Has to be watched carefully to ensure it does not lift higher than desired colour
BLEACH APPLICATION TECHNIQUE VIRGIN HEAD Mix peroxide and bleach quantities as directed by manufacturer Apply to mid-lengths and ends 1-2 cm away from scalp Develop approximately 20-30 minutes Mix fresh bleach and apply to root area Development for 50 minutes on roots REGROWTH Always use a product that is designed for on scalp use Mix peroxide and bleach quantities as directed by manufacturer Apply to root area only Take care when applying colour as bleach swells due to heat band Develop up to 50 minutes. Remove whilst making sure the water is not too hot. Apply a toner if necessary Apply Colour Saver to prevent colour fading.
BLEACH PROCESSING TIME When there is no manufacturers instructions to indicate when to remove bleach you will need to conduct a visual analysis by doing a test stand at 10 mins and every 5 mins thereafter to determine when the desired amount of lift has been achieved. Times set by the manufacturer should always be followed. For example, bleaches that are designed to be left on for 40-60 minutes may not achieve the desired result if removed to early.
THE TONING PROCESS Toners are used to either: Neutralise unwanted shades or To create a desired reflect shade Products used for toning are: Permanent Colour Semi Permanent Colour Temporary Colour Coloured Shampoo/Conditioner When wanting to achieve a cooler reflect, prelighten the hair at least a full shade lighter than desired as cool tones tend to look darker. When wanting a warm reflect, pre-lighten to the level required but always remember to leave a little warmth in the hair for the reflect to adhere to. Permanent Colour is generally only used if the prelightened hair is slightly darker than the required level or on extremely resistant hair Semi Permanent Colour is used on normal to slightly porous hair Temporary Colour is used on porous to extremely porous hair Coloured Shampoo & conditioner is used to maintain a clean shiny blonde & can also be used to neutralise unwanted tones of pale yellow from chlorine
COLOUR CARE AND HOME MAINTENANCE All colour services should include the client being provided with colour care products, as well as clear guidance and information about how to looking after and maintain their colour after leaving the salon. This information should include: The appropriate use of shampoo and conditioner that is specifically designed for ensuring the colour does not fade and the condition of the hair is maintained. The hair is appropriately protected from harsh climatic conditions such as sun and salt or chlorinated water. The hair is suitably protected against the over use of thermal styling equipment such as straightening irons and blow-dryers. The client is re-booked for their following colour service before leaving the salon to ensure the colour is kept looking fresh and with a minimal regrowth.
GROUP ACTIVITY Identify when and why you would choose a Temporary, Semi-permanent or Permanent Colour when conducting a colour service Group is to make a list of different reasons for each of the three colour methods.
APPLICATION METHODS There are a range of application methods from the very basic virgin application or regrowth application through to the more advanced and very creative methods you may have seen at hair shows or hair magazines. A colour service can change a good hair cut into an amazing haircut. The images below are only an example of what is possible with hair colour
ACTIVITY - COLOURING TECHNIQUES Design your own technique. Draw on head sheet a colouring technique you would like to try. It can be from something you have seen before or a completely new concept Include the application pattern, product type and colours to be used. (Be inventive).
COLOUR SCENARIOS You are now required to complete the list of colour scenarios provided by your trainer!!!