Lotioncrafter 532 Point Lawrence Road Olga, WA 98279 Tel: 360-376-8008 Formulary INGREDIENTS IN BOLD PRINT ARE CARRIED BY LOTIONCRAFTER This formula is provided as a basic tutorial on crafting lotions using a high shear mixing method to create stable emulsions. Jen s Bodacious Cream Recipe This is a nice cream recipe using IPM and Dimethicone. A goat milk lotion can be made by substituting 90 grams of goat milk for the 90 grams of Aloe Vera juice. You may use any goat milk you wish, but reconstitute powdered or canned goat milk to proper drinking consistency first, then measure 90 grams. Increasing the amount of goat milk in your formula will greatly increase the difficulty in preserving it. Our Lotioncrafter 1401DC (Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol blend can be substituted for the Dimethicone in this formula, but should be added after the emulsion has formed, just before the fragrance. Water 58.3 528 17.6 Distilled Water 9.9 90 3.0 Aloe Vera Juice 2.2 20 0.67 Silk Amino Acids 0.2 2 0.07 Disodium EDTA Oil 6.6 60 2.0 Shea Butter (or any butter/s you choose) 6.6 60 2.0 Apricot Kernel Oil (or any liquid oil/s you choose) 3.3 30 1.0 DM1000 Dimethicone 5.0 45 1.5 Polawax (Emulsifying Wax NF) 2.2 20 0.7 Stearic Acid 3.3 30 1.0 Lotioncrafter IPM (IPM) 0.7 6 0.2 Covi-Ox T50 Vitamin E 1.0 9 0.3 Phenonip or LiquaPar Optima Fragrance 0.7 6 0.2 Fragrance (adjust to suit) 1. Combine and heat water phase in pot. Bring to a temperature of 176 F, hold for 20 minutes to kill any bacteria and mold spores, and remove from heat. 2. While water phase is coming to temp, combine and heat the oil phase in another pot. Heat directly on the stove, or place the pot in a water bath or double boiler to heat on the stove, if you prefer. Bring to 176 F and remove from heat. Gently stir the oils and waxes to melt them all together. Cover and hold at this temperature until the water phase is ready. - 1 -
3. If your oil phase pot is deep enough to avoid splash out when blending, pour the water phase into it. If not, pour the oil and water phases together into a Rubbermaid-type straight-sided pitcher or deep mixing bowl. Insert an immersion (stick) blender into the mixing vessel, keeping it near the bottom and blend. Move the stick blender around in the vessel to make certain that the lotion is well mixed. 4. Stop blending briefly. Place your mixing vessel into a cold water bath in your sink. Make sure your sink is not too full; you only need enough water to come up to the level of the lotion in the pot (a couple of inches for this recipe). It creates a cooling jacket around your mixing vessel. Immediately resume blending your lotion with your stick blender, moving it around the bottom of the pot to fully incorporate the mix. When the mixture is incorporated (it turns an even white color) blend it until thickening, incorporated and cooled. This should only take about 2-3 minutes. When the mixture starts to thicken, check your temperature. When the temperature is about 95-100 F, remove the mixing vessel from the water and place it on the counter. 5. Check the weight of your batch to make sure you still have 900 grams (30.4 ounces), add more water if needed to replace what may have evaporated. 6. Place the pot back into the cold water bath and resume mixing until the lotion is about 95-100 F (this should take no more than 1-3 minutes more). Remove the pot from the water and place on the counter. 7. Add the Fragrance to the mixture and mix well. 8. Pour the cream when it has cooled, but not "set up". It will continue to set up (for approximately 24 hours) as it sits in the containers. Makes approximately 906 grams or 31 ounces of lotion. Lotioncrafter IPM added to these next two massage oil blends lets the oils sink into the skin, leaving no greasy feeling. Oil drag and buildup on the massage therapist s hands is all but eliminated. Less oil is needed for the massage, but play time (the amount of time the therapist has to massage a given area before more oil is needed) is improved. While the Vitamin E is a nice addition for the skin, its primary purpose in the first formulation is to retard the oxidation of the oils. Caprabella Sensuous Massage Oil A 65 325 10.8 Sunflower Oil (or oil of choice 12 60 2.0 Abyssinian Oil 12 60 2.0 Jojoba Oil 10 50 1.7 Lotioncrafter IPM 1 5 0.17 Covi-Ox T50 Vitamin E Combine above ingredients to make your Massage Oil Base. Base can then be fragranced with essential oils as desired. Other liquid oils can be substituted for any of the above. Makes 500 grams (16.7 oz). - 2 -
Non-Staining Massage Oil A 90 450 15.0 Lotioncrafter FCO (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 10 50 1.7 Lotioncrafter IPM Combine above ingredients to make your Massage Oil Base. Base can then be fragranced with essential oils as desired. Makes 500 grams (16.7 oz) A super silky, oil-free massage oil can be easily made with Lotioncrafter 1401DC Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol combined with Lotioncrafter 995 Cyclomethicone to thin it to an appropriate viscosity for use. A touch of essential oils or fragrance is all that is needed for a luxurious non-staining massage oil that leaves the skin silky soft. Super Silky "Oil-Free" Massage Oil A Lotioncrafter 1401DC Cyclomethicone (and) 66 330 11.0 Dimethiconol B 33 165 5.5 Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone 1 5 0.17 Fragrance or Essential Oil blend 1. Measure out A ingredient into a beaker. 2. Combine B and stir until mixed. 3. Add B to A and mix until uniform. Makes 500 grams (16.7 oz) Caprabella Perfumed Lotion Bar A 23.1 100 3.3 Beeswax 23.1 100 3.3 Shea Butter 23.1 100 3.3 Mango Butter 11.6 50 1.65 Kukui Oil 11.6 50 1.65 Apricot Kernel Oil 4.7 20 0.67 Lotioncrafter IPM 0.5 2 0.07 Covi-Ox T50 Vitamin E B 2.3 10 0.3 Fragrance (adjust to suit) - 3 -
Caprabella Perfumed Lotion Bar con t 1. Combine and heat A ingredients in a pot. Bring to a temperature of about 150 F and stir to combine all ingredients well. 2. Remove from heat. Cool to approximately 130 F. Add B with stirring. 3. Pour into lotion bar containers. Makes approximately 432 grams (14.24 ounces). Goatmilk, Lavender and Oatmeal Tub Teas A 9.0 180 6 Lavender Buds 1.0 20 0.67 Lavender EO 0.2 2 0.07 Disodium EDTA B 25.0 500 16.67 Bicarbonate of Soda 25.0 500 16.67 Powdered Goat Milk 7.5 150 6.0 Titanium Dioxide (water dispersible) C 32.5 650 23.67 Quaker Oats Oatmeal 1. Mix A ingredients and set aside. 2. Combine B ingredients in large vessel, mixing well to evenly disperse titanium dioxide. 3. C, grind oatmeal to a fine powder in food processor or blender (in small batches) and add to B. 4. Add A and mix well. Fill large tea bags with 30 gms (1 oz) of mix and seal end with a hot iron. 5. Package two to a clear cello or poly bag to help maintain freshness. 6. Label with a "Best if used by date" about 6 months out, to be sure people will use them sooner rather than later (although pretty stable in this formulation, the fats in the goat milk powder can go rancid in time). Makes about 66 tub teas. - 4 -
Caprabella Foaming Milk Bath A 28.7 1200 40.0 Salt (non-iodized table salt) 23.0 960 32.0 Bicarbonate of Soda 17.2 720 24.0 Powdered Goat Milk 17.2 720 24.0 Lotioncrafter SLSa 2.3 96 3.2 Titanium Dioxide (water dispersible) 0.1 4.1 0.14 Germall Plus Powder B 7.2 300 10.0 Natrasorb Bath 4.3 180 6.0 Fragrance Oil Note: Lotioncrafter SLSa (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) is a fine powder and can be an irritant to breathe. Wear a mask and goggles when first mixing it. Once it is mixed in with everything else, it is fine, but care should be taken in the beginning. Ditto working with Natrasorb Bath. It's less of an irritant, but it is fine and light and goes everywhere. Mask and goggles help!! Titanium Dioxide powder is quite light, too, so the same precautions are sensible. 1. Using a sieve, sift A ingredients into a bucket or large pan. Break up any lumps with a spoon. Whisk or stir very well to fully mix all ingredients. Set aside. 2. B. Weigh and pour the Natrasorb Bath into another pan or bucket. Whisk in the fragrance oil and continue to stir until it is well mixed. 3. Place the sieve back on the bucket containing A ingredients. Pour the B mix through the sieve to combine with A. Use a spoon to break up any lumps and work anything remaining through the sieve. Set the sieve aside and, using a spoon or a whisk, mix the dry ingredients together until all is mixed together thoroughly. 4. Store in an airtight plastic bucket. This will last a long time and will fill make almost 15 ten ounce jars (Origin's type) or tin tie bags of Foaming Milk Bath. 6. Label with a "Best if used by date" about 6 months out. Although exceptionally stable in this formulation, the fats in the goat milk powder can go rancid in time). Makes 15 10-Ounce Jars - 5 -
Hair Serums are HOT! HOT!! HOT!!! This is a simple hair serum which gets its intense sheen from the small amount of phenyl trimethicone added to the formula. It offers detangling, anti-frizz properties and light conditioning. Note: High shear mixing (ie., a stick blender) is not needed with this formulation. Stirring with a spoon, spatula or wire whisk is recommended. Hair Polishing Serum A Lotioncrafter 1401DC Cyclomethicone (and) 98.9 494.5 16.5 Dimethiconol B 1.0 5.0 0.17 Lotioncrafter 1550 Phenyl Trimethicone 0.1 0.5 0.02 Fragrance (optional) 1. Combine B ingredients and mix well. 2. Add B to A. Mix well. Stop when batch is uniform. Makes 500 grams (16.69 ounces) This version is a slightly less viscous formulation, ideally suited to a treatment pump bottle. The sheen has been kicked up a notch with the addition of more Lotioncrafter 1550 Phenyl Trimethicone. Note: High shear mixing (ie., a stick blender) is not needed with this formulation. Stirring with a spoon, spatula or wire whisk is recommended. High Sheen Hair Polishing Serum A 31.9 159.5 5.32 Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone 8.0 40.0 1.33 Lotioncrafter 1550 Phenyl Trimethicone B 0.1 0.5 0.02 Fragrance (optional) C 60.0 300.0 10.0 Lotioncrafter 1401DC Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol 1. Combine A ingredients and mix well. 2. Add B to A. Mix well. 3. Add A/B ingredients to C with mixing. Stop mixing when batch is uniform. Makes 500 grams (16.67 ounces) - 6 -
Here are hair glossing sprays that can be used in a spray bottle. A touch of Lotioncrafter 1401DC Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol offers conditioning while Lotioncrafter 1550 Phenyl Trimethicone boosts the sheen to a high level. Volatile Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone is the carrier for these ingredients. Conditioning Hair Glossing Spray A 1.0 5.0 0.17 Lotioncrafter 1550 Phenyl Trimethicone 1.0 5.0 0.17 Lotioncrafter 1401DC B 98.0 490.0 16.34 Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone C 0.1 0.5 0.02 Fragrance (optional) 1. Combine A ingredients and mix well. 2. Add A to B with mixing. 3. Add C to A/B. Mix well. Stop when batch is uniform. Makes 500 grams (16.69 ounces) Simply Shine Hair Glossing Spray A 1 5.0 0.17 Lotioncrafter 1550 Phenyl Trimethicone B 99 495 16.5 Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone 1. Add A to B and stir to mix. Makes 500 grams (16.69 ounces) - 7 -
Perfumed Body Sprays are as simple as can be when you're working with cyclomethicone! Lotioncrafter 995 Cyclomethicone can be used alone with just the addition of some fragrance. Remember, though, cyclomethicone evaporates completely, leaving nothing behind. It can almost feel drying. However, if you add a bit of Lotioncrafter 1401DC Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol or Lotioncrafter DM1000 Dimethicone to them, they leave the skin with a silky dry-down that is not greasy, but luxurious. Silky Dry Oil Perfume Spray A 97 485 16.17 Lotioncrafter 995 Cyclomethicone 1 5 0.17 Lotioncrafter 1401DC Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol or Lotioncrafter DM1000 Dimethicone B 2 10 0.34 Fragrance 1. Mix A ingredients together. 2. Add B to A and stir to mix. Makes 500 grams (16.68 ounces) Forget Polysorbates which can leave a sticky residue as it settles on floors and linens! Formulating Linen & Room Sprays with Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone is incredibly easy. Simply combine your desired fragrance or essential oil blend with the Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone in a spray bottle. Test your sprays on cotton (and perhaps silk or satin) fabric if you are selling them, just to sure the fragrance oil s components won t stain them. Please note, while a great many are, not all fragrances or essential are miscible with cyclomethicone. Mix a little cyclomethicone with the fragrance or essential oil you want to use first. If they are not compatible, the mixture will cloud or separate into two separate phases, like oil and water. If it mixes well, you're good to go! Quick and Easy Linen & Room Spray A 96 480 16.0 Lotioncrafter 995 Cyclomethicone 4 20 0.67 Fragrance 1. Mix A ingredients together. Decant into bottles. Makes 500 grams (16.68 ounces). - 8 -
Lotioncrafter LC995 Cyclomethicone can be combined with virtually any oils you choose, along with a little Vitamin E (as an antioxidant for your oils) to make very nice after bath oils that glide on the skin and sink in quickly with no greasy feel. Lotioncrafter IPM is an emollient ester that improves the spreading co-efficient of the oils. Due to the high volume of oils in this formula, it can be slippery on the bath or floor, so care should be taken in use (and your bottles labeled appropriately if you are selling your product). Luscious After Bath Oil A 47.7 238.5 8.0 Lotioncrafter 995 Cyclomethicone 10.0 50.0 1.67 Lotioncrafter IPM 15.0 75.0 2.5 Abyssinian Oil 15.0 75.0 2.5 Rice Bran Oil 10.0 50.0 1.67 Jojoba Oil 1.0 5.0 0.17 Covi-Ox T50 Vitamin E 1.0 5.0 0.17 Fragrance 0.3 1.5 0.05 Phenonip (optional) 1. Mix A ingredients together. Pour into bottles. Makes 500 grams (16.68 ounces). Indulgent, satin smooth "oil" based on the B&BW concoction of the same name. Try our silicone elastomer Lotioncrafter EL51 to create a powder soft emollient body smoother. Smoothing Oil (a la B&BW) A 66 330 11 Lotioncrafter EL51 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 25 125 4.17 Lotioncrafter LC995 B 8 40 1.33 Lotioncrafter Squalane C 1 5 0.17 Fragrance or Essential Oil Blend 1. Combine A ingredients and mix until smooth. 2. Add B to A with mixing. 3. Add C and mix until uniform. 4. Package in small serum-type treatment pump bottles for pulse point application, or larger bottles for all over smoothing. - 9 -
Want to make a glitter gel in no time at all? Here s one that s as simple as it gets! This powder soft gel beautifully suspends our ultrafine (.004) iridescent glitter; add a little fragrance and you re all set! The glitter glides onto the skin with no sticky residue. Package in little pump bottles or in luscious little lip balm pots. One Minute Glitter Gel A 75 75 2.50 Lotioncrafter EL51 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 20 20 0.67 Lotioncrafter LC995 B 2 2 0.07 Fragrance C 3 3 0.10 Lotioncrafter Winter Radiance Ultrafine Glitter 1. Combine A ingredients and mix until smooth. 2. Add B to A with mixing. 3. Add C and mix until uniform. Makes 100 grams (3.3 oz). Here s a satin soft salt scrub made with Lotioncrafter BTMS for its emulsifying and skin conditioning benefits and exfoliating salt to slough off dead skin cells to reveal fresh, glowing skin. You can make this scrub with sugar in place of the salt, adjusting the amount of sugar, if necessary to obtain a smooth blend. Satin Soft Salt Scrub A 4.6 46 1.53 Shea Butter 4.6 46 1.53 Rice Bran Oil 4.6 46 1.53 Jojoba Oil 9.3 93 3.10 Sunflower Oil 4.6 46 1.53 Lotioncrafter BTMS 0.7 7 0.23 Covi-Ox T50 Vitamin E 1.3 1.3 0.04 Polysorbate 80 B 70.3 703 23.43 Salt C 1 10 0.3 Fragrance or Essential Oil Blend - 10 -
Satin Soft Salt Scrub con t 1.Combine A and heat to 170 F (or sufficient to melt and combine oils, butter and wax). Remove from heat 2. Add A ingredients to B with mixing. 3. Place vessel in cool water bath and continue mixing until temperature drops to about 80 F and oils no longer come to the top of the mix (if you stop mixing). 4. Add C fragrance and mix well. 5. Scoop into jars. Mix will continue to solidify over 24 hours. Makes 1000 grams (33 oz) Simple & Luxurious Hair Conditioner A 86.0 860 28.67 Distilled Water 2.0 20 0.67 DL-Panthenol 0.2 2 0.07 Disodium EDTA 6.0 60 2.0 Lotioncrafter BTMS 5.0 50 1.67 Lotioncrafter DM1000 B 0.8 8 0.27 Fragrance 1. Combine and heat A ingredients to 167-176 F. Remove from heat and place pan in cold water. Using a stick blender, blend mixture as it cools to about 130 or below. 2. Add B fragrance and stir well. Fill bottles. Product will continue to set up over 24 hours. Makes 1000 grams (33 ounces) Make a simple conditioning sugar scrub by combining 1 part or our Simple & Luxurious Hair Conditioner with 4-5 parts sugar and whisk well. Place in jars or Malibu tubes. Exfoliating Body Conditioner* A 17.2 860 28.67 Distilled Water 0.4 20 0.67 DL-Panthenol 0.04 2 0.07 Disodium EDTA 1.2 60 2.00 Lotioncrafter BTMS 1.0 50 1.67 Lotioncrafter DM1000 B 0.16 8 0.27 Fragrance C 80.0 4000 133.3 Sugar - 11 -
Exfoliating Body Conditioner* con t 1. Combine and heat A ingredients to 167-176 F. Remove from heat and place pan in cold water. Using a stick blender, blend mixture as it cools to about 130 or below. 2. Add B fragrance and stir well. 3. Add C sugar and mix thoroughly. 4. Fill Malibu tubes or jars. Makes 5000 grams (167 ounces) * Thanks to Cindy Bonnett of A Rare Treasure for contributing a great name! Working with CME The simplest formulations are made by mixing 1 part Caprol Micro Express (CME) with 9 parts water, and adding 1% fragrance. If it s not clear, add a bit more CME, a few drops at a time with stirring until the mix clears. That s it. You can use a water soluble preservative like Germaben II at 0.5 to 1%. Germall Plus and Liquid Germall Plus are not recommended for aerosol products. Body Sprays can be created by substituting water soluble actives for any part of the Distilled Water. Also try Aloe Vera Juice, Herbal Extracts and Hydrosols. One percent fragrance works well for a body spray, but if you want to use 2 or 3% fragrance in a room or body spray, you will need to increase the amount of CME used. A 3% fragrance load requires that you use about 15% CME. So a formula might look like this: Linen Spray A 81.5 407.5 13.60 Distilled Water 15.0 75.0 2.50 Caprol Micro Express (CME) 0.5 2.5 0.08 Germaben II B 3.0 15.0 0.50 Fragrance 1. Combine A ingredients with stirring. 2. Add B fragrance to A with whisking. If resulting emulsion is not clear, add small amounts of CME to mix with stirring until mixture clears. Makes 500 grams (16.67 oz) - 12 -
Natrasorb Bath and Croda s Cromollient SCE are added to these bath bombs. Both ingredients help the added oil disperse in the water, to make them the ultimate for silken, skin softening appeal in the bath. Bodacious Bath Bombs A 56.0 570 19.0 Bicarbonate of Soda 28.0 285 9.5 Citric Acid 7.0 72 2.4 Natrasorb Bath B 0.2 2 0.07 D&C or FD&C Colorant of choice C 4.4 45 1.5 Sweet Almond Oil 1.5 15 0.5 Cromollient SCE 2.9 30 1.0 Fragrance D qs qs qs Water/Witch Hazel 1. Combine A ingredients and mix gently. Do not be concerned if Natrasorb Bath tends to sit on top at this point. 2. Mix B colorant with a small amount of A ingredients in a mortar and pestle until lump free. Add to A and mix with hands or whisk to incorporate colorant evenly. 3. Combine C ingredients and stir until mixed evenly. Pour C ingredients over A/B. Using your hands, mix thoroughly, rubbing ingredients through fingers until mixture is crumbly. It will have pea-sized lumps throughout. When squeezed in the hand, it will form clumps that easily break apart. 4. Fill a spray bottle with water, witch hazel, or a combination of the two. Begin to spritz dry ingredients with water/witch hazel, mixing thoroughly between sprays just until mixture is damp enough to hold together when squeezed in the hand. 5. Working quickly press the mixture into the molds. Let bombs dry in the molds for a few hours. Remove from molds and let dry for several days before packaging. Mixture will fill 4 large (baseball size) molds or 6-8 smaller molds. - 13 -
Olive oil and Lotioncrafter Squalane (from olives) are used in this formula, along with Cromollient SCE to create a cleansing oil that is applied to a dry face to dissolve dirt and makeup and then rinsed away with warm water. The ratios of Cromollient SCE, Lotioncrafter Squalane and olive oil can be adjusted in this formula to create a feel that is just right for you. Increasing the Cromollient SCE, for example, will leave less oil on the face, increasing the olive oil will leave more emollient oils behind. Adding additional squalane will thin the product out further. You can also substitute Lotioncrafter FCO (caprylic/capric triglycerides) for the squalane in this formula. It is also possible to substitute other oils for the olive oil Rice Bran Oil might be a good one! Olive Cleansing Oil A 74.6 373 12.43 Olive Oil 12.0 60 2.00 Lotioncrafter Squalane 12.0 60 2.00 Cromollient SCE 1.0 5 0.07 Covi-Ox T50 Vitamin E 0.4 2 0.07 LiquaPar Oil 1. Combine all ingredients and mix well. Makes 500 grams (about 16.67 ounces) Dispersible or blooming bath oils just got easier! Making a dispersible bath oil is as simple as combining about 10% Cromollient SCE with your fixed oil of choice, along with fragrance. Here s one made with Macadamia Nut Oil. Your choices are only limited by your imagination! Dispersing Bath Oil A 88.6 443 14.77 Macadamia Nut Oil 10.0 50 1.67 Cromollient SCE 1.0 5 0.17 Covi-Ox T50 Vitamin E 0.4 2 0.07 LiquaPar Oil 1. Combine all ingredients and mix well. Makes 500 grams (about 16.67 ounces) - 14 -
This lotion is thin enough to be sprayed from a mister and it stays well emulsified. You can substitute Lotioncrafter FCO (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) or Mineral Oil for the Squalane. Do not sub fixed oils for the Squalane as they will be too heavy. You can sub any other water soluble active or amino acid (like silk) for the Hydrolyzed Oats, or just use water in its place. Hydrosols can also be used in place of some or all of the water. Have fun! Light Sprayable Lotion with Olive Squalane A 84.7 423.5 14.10 Distilled Water 2.0 10.0 0.33 Glycerin 2.0 10.0 0.33 Hydrolyzed Oats B 5.0 25.0 0.83 Lotioncrafter Squalane 2.0 10.0 0.33 Lotioncrafter IPM 1.5 7.5 0.25 Cetearyl Alcohol 0.6 3.0 0.10 Glyceryl Stearate 1.2 6.0 0.20 Ceteareth 20 0.5 2.5 0.08 Phenonip C 0.5 2.5 0.08 Fragrance 1. Heat A ingredients to 176 F. Cover and hold at this temperature for 20 minutes. 2. Heat B ingredients to 176 F. 3. Add A to B and stick blend until cool, placing pot in cool water to speed cooling process. Keep stick blender well submerged in pot to avoid excess incorporation of air into formulation while mixing. 4. Pour into bottles. Makes 500 grams (16.67 oz) Lotioncrafter 2003-2005 Lotioncrafter All Rights Reserved Revised 8/5/05-15 -