ULTIMATE INNOVATION
Sérum Capital Lumière In the wake of the Vital Light creams, Clarins introduces a serum that erases the shadows of the passing years. 2010: Clarins launched the Vital Light creams, an innovative skin care concept that uses the exceptional revitalizing power of pioneer plants to restore the skin s youthful optical properties and reorganize the skin structures responsible for the skin s luminosity and firmness. Today, Clarins Research goes a step further and introduces Vital Light Serum, a highly concentrated anti-age serum that boosts the actions of Vital Light Day and Night while targeting two signs of skin ageing which are difficult to control: dark spots, a darkened complexion and diminished deep-down luminosity. Beyond firmer skin, beyond smoother skin and reduced wrinkles, new advances made in understanding how the skin reflects the light means that women are now assured a brighter-looking complexion that seems to defy the shadows the passing of time can leave behind.
Can a skin care product really offer the ability to fade dark spots, reduce the signs of ageing, restore luminosity and also be well tolerated by the skin? Clarins Research took on this challenge. Vital Light Serum combines two exceptional ingredients able to help even out the complexion and reduce dark spots that often appear with age: hexylresorcinol, a reference anti-dark spot molecule whose effective action and tolerance have been proven by rigorous clinical testing Spergularia extract, a pioneer plant, further reinforces the action of hexylresorcinol.
Hexylresorcinol is the key which helps unlock Vital Light Serum s ability to effectively reduce the appearance of dark spots Effectiveness comparable to that of hydroquinone without the possible side effects Used in the pharmaceutical sector for its antioxidant and antiseptic properties, hexylresorcinol offers a similar effect as hydroquinone, a molecule used in de-pigmentation products but whose side effects limit its use to the medical domain. Hexylresorcinol is well tolerated by the skin and it is possible to use every day: it s the ideal anti-dark spot ingredient used in the skin care industry today. Two-step action on melanin formation Studies carried out on cell cultures demonstrated hexylresorcinol s capacity to intervene in the steps which cause too much melanin to be produced. It helps block tyrosinase, an enzyme which, under the influence of UV rays, inflammatory reactions and hormonal changes, triggers melanocytes to start producing melanin pigments. It also blocks peroxidase, another enzyme that activates the production of darkertoned melanin pigments called eumelanins. MELANIN PIGMENTS ARE NOT ALL ON THE SAME WAVELENGTH What determines the colour of dark spots? This colour is the result of the ratio between phaeomelanins and eumelanins, the two categories of pigments that melanocytes produce. Phaeomelanins absorb the colours blue and green (visible light wavelengths) and reflect a reddish-orange colour. They are produced in larger quantities by those with fair skin tones and those with red hair. These pigments do not offer sun protection. Eumelanins absorb almost all of the light wavelengths and only reflect a very small part which explains their brownish-black colour. They play a protective role against UV rays but also accentuate the colour of dark spots linked to ageing.
Reinforced by Spergularia Spergularia extract, a pioneer plant found in Vital Light Day and Night, further reinforces the effectiveness of hexylresorcinol s ability to fade dark spots via the action it has on tyrosinase. WHY DO DARK SPOTS FORM? The reason dark spots appear can be traced to melanocytes, cells located in the lower layers of the epidermis. The appearance of dark spots is linked to several changes which take place within cellular activity: certain melanocytes become inactive (with age, certain parts of the body do not tan as before), other melanocytes become hyperactive in areas exposed to light like the face, décolleté or hands. Under the influence of UV rays, but also in response to inflammation or hormonal impulses, the hyperactivity of these melanocytes leads to a localized surplus production of melanin. UV RAYS DARK SPOT PHAEOMELANIN INCREASED TRANSFER OF MELANIN TOWARDS CELLS IN THE EPIDERMIS PHAEOMELANIN EUMELANIN INFLAMMATION, HORMONAL IMBALANCES MELANOCYTE
Besides dark spots, how do you fight visible signs of skin ageing while brightening a complexion which has darkened over time? Vital Light Serum has the answer. To help skin regain luminosity skin regain luminosity and firmness lost over the years, the serum s formula adds to the pioneer plant extracts of Vital Light Day and Night three result-boosting ingredients: Katafray extract and a double-weight hyaluronic acid offer their hydrating properties that also play a role in promoting more luminous-looking skin, Cangzhu extract activates cellular metabolism which slows down with age.
Cochlearia and Waltheria: pioneer plants that help restore skin luminosity Cochlearia helps slow down cellular ageing Exclusive to Clarins and a major ingredient in the Vital Light creams, an extract of Cochlearia officinalis has proven its remarkable revitalizing properties. It restores proteasome activity, diminishes the level of oxidized intracellular proteins and delays the appearance of senescent cells. It helps prevent changes in the complexion caused by the accumulation of oxidized proteins and a diminished cellular activity. The dermis is reorganized by a combination of Waltheria and a tripeptide Also found in the Vital Light cream formulas, the combination of an extract of Waltheria titrated at 95% of tiliroside with a tripeptide ensures a widespread restructuring action, particularly adapted to ageing skin. It stimulates collagen I synthesis, the majority of the type of collagen in the dermis, and helps protect fibres from breaking down. By stimulating the synthesis of fibronectin, a protein that ensures the firm anchoring of fibroblasts with collagen fibres, it reorganizes the dermal fibre network which in turn promotes a better reflection of light. WHAT ARE THE REASONS BEHIND THE LOSS OF DEEP-DOWN LUMINOSITY AND A DARKENING OF THE COMPLEXION? Dysfunctional melanocytes are not the only reason that the complexion darkens. Clarins Research has demonstrated that the loss of the skin s light capital is due primarily to the dermis inability to reflect the light. The dermis is the primary reflective structure in the skin that plays a role similar to that of a mirror s silver layer found under the glass. Unorganized collagen fibres. With age, these fibres become grouped in uneven clusters; oxidized or rigid fibres are no longer removed. This results in a loss of the dermis ability to support the epidermis but also to reflect the light evenly. A breakdown in the intercellular cleansing system. Another reason the complexion can darken is due to an inactivation of proteasome activity, a cellular organelle that helps recycle oxidized proteins. With age, oxidized intracellular proteins accumulate which leads to cellular senescence. Cellular renewal slows down; the skin loses its clear and healthy appearance.
Katafray extract and hyaluronic acid offer increased hydration Water also helps diffuse the light. Marked skin often suffers from a lack of moisture. Clarins has enriched Vital Light Serum s formula with two of the most effective hydrating ingredients. Katafray extract, a Clarins exclusive, optimizes the Natural Moisturizing Factors in the skin and reinforces skin s barrier function. Double molecular weight hyaluronic acid offers hydration action on two levels. On the surface, hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight forms a protective film that traps water and perspiration to be able to maintain a constant moisture level for cells in the uppermost layer of the epidermis, the corneal layer. This makes it possible to optimize light reflection. In the dermis, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid helps restore the skin s main moisture reservoir. It also restores a smoother, plumper aspect to the skin. Cangzhu extract boosts cellular activity Cangzhu extract activates a key protein in cellular membranes called the G protein. This protein helps regulate cellular activity and enhances the messages sent by cosmetic ingredients. It also helps boost cellular activity that slows down with age: it enhances keratinocyte renewal in the epidermis and also stimulates collagen synthesis by fibroblasts.
Firmer, luminous, more even skin: Vital Light Serum restores to the skin what the years have taken away. Vital Light Serum was tested for two weeks by 133 women over age 50. 58% of them claimed to have sensitive skin and more than 80% said they had dark spots on their face. For 99.2% of the women, skin tolerance was judged to be good to excellent. The vast majority of women noticed visible results, not only immediately after application but also after two weeks. After application A RADIANT, LUMINOUS COMPLEXION SKIN IS SOFT AND COMFORTABLE SMOOTHER SKIN 87.8% 96.9% 94.5% Two weeks later DARK SPOTS REDUCED 71.2% MORE EVEN COMPLEXION FIRMER SKIN 87.8% 83.9% Vital Light Serum should be applied before Vital Light Day and/or Night to help boost their efficiency. Lightweight and refreshing, the texture has a slight apricot hue and tender floral notes. It leaves a matte, powdery finish on the skin surface. Very easily absorbed, it won t feel or look oily.
Vital Light: Defy the signs of ageing and regain deep luminosity. Vital Light Day Available in three versions: comfort cream for dry skin, for all skin types and for all skin types with an SPF 15 Amazing age-control action that erases wrinkles, firms the skin and restores deep-down skin luminosity. Vital Light Night Available in two versions: comfort cream for dry skin and for all skin types An expert revitalizing cream that reduces the appearance of fatigued skin, wakes up its tone and restores a fresher-looking appearance. NEW Vital Light Serum A powerful anti-dark spot concentrate that illuminates a darkened complexion due to age and optimizes the action of Vital Light Day and Night creams. A must-have product to help prevent the appearance of dark spots: UV PLUS HP SPF 40 Triple protection against UV rays, the effects of pollution and oxidizing free radicals in a remarkably lightweight texture. Apply after daytime moisturizer. Vital Light is also available as a skin care treatment in Beauty Institutes and was developed by Clarins skin care professionals. The effectiveness of pioneer plants is combined with the benefits of a specific age-control manual method to allow deep-down skin luminosity to rise quickly to the skin surface. A pure moment of well-being which allows the skin to reflect all of its youthful vitality once again.
Technical File
Cangzhu Atractylodes lancea Originally from the central and northern mountains in China, cangzhu has been used forever in traditional Chinese medicine. Its root has a bitter taste and is cooked and eaten for its toning properties. It is also eaten raw to help reduce water retention. In skin care, Clarins Laboratories have demonstrated how, with the help of the G protein, the root extract optimizes the skin s barrier effect. Cochlearia Cochlearia officinalis Cochlearia spreads its long stems covered in small, fragrant white flowers over the shoreline rocks and sand dunes of the English Channel and Atlantic Ocean. As a salt-loving plant, it is well-suited to growing in harsh coastal conditions. Nourishment is stored in its thick, oily leaves that protect vital nutrients from evaporating. Cochlearia is rich in vitamin C- in the past it was used to treat sailors suffering from scurvy- and also has antiseptic and fortifying benefits. A Clarins exclusive ingredient, the anti-ageing action of Cochlearia is now patent pending. Katafray Cedrelopsis grevei Originally from Madagascar, katafray unfolds its thin silhouette in the arid forests of the southern and western parts of the island. Its light wood is just as resistant as ebony and is very useful to the local population. In traditional medicine, the bark is used in an infusion and is used for its toning and fever-reducing qualities. Its essential oil is known for its strengthening and soothing actions. Recently, it was discovered that the extract of katafay bark made it possible to improve the quality of the stratum corneum and enhance the skin s natural hydration mechanisms. The extract used by Clarins Laboratories was developed exclusively for Clarins and is obtained following a process that helps preserve the biodiversity of the tropical forest at the heart of a sustainable development programme.
Spergularia Spergularia rubra From June to September, the Spergularia s pink flowers blossom on sandy rock areas across Europe, North Africa and Asia. Spergularia grows in abundance thanks to its long, tough root that grows down deeply into the ground to find sufficient water supplies. In North Africa, it is ground into a powder and mixed with olive oil to make a cream that diminishes the visible appearance of freckles. Spergularia is also known as stone-breaker and is used for medicinal purposes when treating kidney stones. A Clarins exclusive ingredient, Spergularia demonstrated its anti-hyperpigmentation benefits during in vitro tests. Waltheria Waltheria indica Found commonly in the tropics, Waltheria satisfies its need to grow by spreading over sandy or rocky areas or in places where ground soil has been damaged. Its leaves are covered in fine hairs that help prevent evaporation. Fascinated by the plant s stubborn desire to grow in desolate areas, local populations throughout history also discovered its antiseptic and pain relief benefits. Clarins has selected Waltheria titrated to 95% of tiliroside, a molecule with soothing and anti-ageing benefits. By combining titrated Waltheria with a tripeptide, Clarins Research has formulated an innovative and patented complex that delivers a wide range of anti-ageing skin care benefits.
Vital Light Serum, dark spot correcting, age repairing concentrate Concentrated ingredients that erase the shadows of the passing years. ACTIONS INGREDIENTS 1. Reduces the appearance of dark spots Regulates the synthesis of melanin by inhibiting the two key enzymes involved in the melanogenesis process: tyrosinase and peroxidase Hexylresorcinol, Spergularia 2. Reorganizes the dermis to ensure firmer skin and prevent prevent a dull-looking complexion Restores proteasome activity in order to prevent cellular senescence Stimulates collagen synthesis and helps prevent dermal fibres from breaking down Cochlearia Waltheria + tripeptide 3. Hydrates the skin and enhances surface radiance Reinforces the skin barrier and prevents transepidermal water loss Restores moisture reserves in the dermal layer Katafray, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid 4. Optimizes cellular activity Stimulates the G protein, a molecule that enhances cellular receptivity toward ingredients and boosts their functions Cangzhu Dermatologist tested. Non-comedogenic. Presentation: 30 ml glass pump-bottle
www.clarins.com Réf: 06108910 - Clarins - 1 er trimestre 2011 - Printed in E.C.