N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Taking the latest trends in shampoo Formulating to new levels of Sensory and functional performance Dave Popplewell, global marketing manager, hair care (dpopplewell@ashland.com) 1
Introduction to N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Problem More damaged hair due to: Hair care regimens of shampooing, styling and coloring all lead to damage to the hair Aging population in the developed world Increasing usage of hair care products in developing markets Result is hair that is: More difficult to manage and comb Appears dull and rough Hair alignment is decreased More hydrophilic Increasing number of conditioning ingredients on market but none revert hair to original hydrophobic state and remain on hair. N-DurHance A-1000 is durable and reverts hair to a virgin hydrophobic state for extended periods. 2
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer (INCI name: Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride) N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer- highly charged homopolymer of acrylamido-n-propyltrimethylammonium chloride. It introduces a new chemistry to the Personal Care industry. Hydrophilic 2x Bleached Hair Water droplet spread spontaneously A durable and substantive conditioning polymer for hair providing a more permanent conditioning effect Restores hair to a hydrophobic state Benefits improve over the course of more than 5 shampoo cycles and persists on the hair even after multiple washes No build-up Reduces or eliminates the need for silicone Wet combability is significantly improved Easy processable, ready to use 20% aqueous solution and requires no heating or ph adjustments. Compatible with a wide range of cationic, non-ionic and anionic surfactants. Preservative free Highly purified for personal care Patent application pending 2x Bleached Hair treated with N-DurHance A-1000 3
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Applications and usage Applications Intensive Conditioning Hair Masks Daily Use Conditioners Conditioning Sprays Comb through Conditioning Creams Shampoos for damaged hair, 2-in-1 shampoos, sulphate free shampoos, silicone free shampoos Usage levels 1.0% to 5.0% as supplied (20% aqueous solution) 4
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Chemistry Chemical Structure INCI name: Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride Typical Properties Property Appearance Odor Color, APHA <300 Total solids,% 19-21 Measurement Clear slightly amber liquid Characteristic ph@25 C 3.5 4.5 Brookfield Viscosity,cps (RVT,sp4,10 rpm @25 C) 250-500 CAS number: 26427-01-0 5
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer ISCF (In Situ Controlled Flocculation) A new mechanism of action, ISCF (in situ controlled flocculation). The positively charged N-DurHance A-1000 polymer is attracted to the highly damaged negatively charged hair leaving the hair with an excess of positive charge. Hair is shampooed (with or without silicones) and the anionic surfactants (SLES) form flocculates on hair surface (in-situ) with the cationic polymer During flocculate formation, hydrophobic lauryl groups from SLES coat the hair surface, creating a hydrophobic layer on the hair surface (no need necessarily for silicones). If there are silicones or other oils present in the shampoo, they are attracted to the hair surface during the flocculate formation (boosting of silicone deposition). 6
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Wet combability data conditioner application 160000 Wet comb energy on bleached Caucasian hair 140000 Wet comb energy, g*mm 120000 100000 80000 60000 40000 Commercial Intensive repair conditioner Chassis (Cationic surfactant / Fatty Alcohol) 5 % N-DurHance A-1000 in Chassis 2.5% N-DurHance A-1000 in chassis with 2% Amodimethicone 20000 0 rinse-off 1st wash 3rd wash 5th wash N-DurHance A-1000 polymer enhances conditioning with washing 7 Polymer used at 100% active.
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Consumer perceivable performance - salon study 8
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Comparison to other conditioning polymers 160000 Wet comb energy on bleached Caucasian hair - 0.5% N-Hance in conditioner base 140000 120000 Wet comb energy, g*mm 100000 80000 60000 40000 20000 0 Conditioner application 1st shampoo 3rd shampoo 5th shampoo 0.5% N-DurHance A1000 0.5% PQ-10 0.5% PQ-7 0.5% PQ-11 0.5% PQ-55 In the first application the polymers perform equally, but N-DurHance A-1000 polymer provides the most durable conditioning after multiple washes 9
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Contact angle study demonstrating hydrophobicity on treated bleached hair 140 120 Virgin Hair (dark brown European) Equilibrium Water Contact angle 100 80 60 40 20 Bleached Conditioner Chassis Conditioner Chassis + 5% N-DurHance A1000 Commercial Intensive conditioner Chassis + 5 % N- DurHance A1000 + 2x base Washed 0 0 1 2 3 5 8 10 Time (min) Hydrophobicity very close to the level of Virgin hair if using N-DurHance A-1000 polymer. Improved performance after 2 washes with non-conditioning shampoo 10
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Improvement in long-lasting efficacy*- silicone deposition & wet comb energy 0.7 0.6 Relative silicone surface level on bleached Chinese hair after multiple washes with Silicone-containing shampoo 120 100 Wet comb energy on bleached Chinese Hair, 0.2 g/g hair conditioner, 0.1 g/g hair Commercial Silicone-containing shampoo Relative silicone surface level RSSL 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2 0.1 0 rinse off x1 wash x3 wash x5 wash Comb energy /g 80 60 40 20 0 rinse off x1 wash x3 wash x5 wash Benchmark conditioner 2.5% N-DurHance A-1000 in Benchmark Conditioner Benchmark conditioner 2.5% N-DurHance A-1000 in Benchmark Conditioner Adding 2.5% N-DurHance A-1000 polymer into a commercial conditioner improves silicone deposition and decreases wet comb energy *Shanghai R&D team study 11
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Wet combability data shampoo application 90000 80000 Wet comb energy on bleached Caucasian hair - Instron - 0.1 g/g hair shampoo ASI Salon shampoo Silicone-free technologies Intense repair technologies Sulfate-free technologies 70000 1x wash Comb energy, g*mm 60000 50000 40000 30000 3x washes True 2 in 1 Efficacy 20000 10000 0 1 % N-DurHance A1000 + 0.4% Carbomer + 2% Dimethiconol 1 % N-DurHance A1000 + 1% Acrylates Copolymer Commercial silicone-free shampoo Commercial silicone-free shampoo + 1 % N-DurHance A1000 Commercial total repair shampoo Commercial total Sulfate-free repair shampoo + shampoo with 1 % 1 % N-DurHance N-DurHance A1000 A1000 N-DurHance A-1000 polymer in shampoo enhances conditioning with washing in different kind of shampoo applications 12
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Build-up on hair study over multiple washes There is NO polymer build-up on hair (liquid flow rate remains constant as compared with untreated hair) 13
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Formulating guidelines N-DurHance A-1000 is easily incorporated into any cationic formulations such as conditioners and treatments and can also be included into anionic and non ionic surfactants systems. It is recommended that with anionic systems a stabilizer is incorporated such as carbomer or acrylates copolymer. In processing these types of anionic systems it is recommend that N-DurHance A-1000 is added first to the water phase followed by the surfactants in order of their ionic character, so firstly non-ionics and amphoterics and then the more highly anionics such as SLES, SLS. 14
N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Summary DURABLE repair to damaged hair while maintaining: Long-lasting consumer perceivable conditioning through multiple washes Hydrophobicity retention after multiple washes to get very close to non-damaged virgin hair Consumer perceivable conditioning efficacy Ideal for formulating silicone-free conditioners Mechanistic Hypothesis via In-Situ Controlled Flocculation (ISCF ) mechanism to post entrap surfactants and / or silicone (if present) The difference 15
Support and prototypes available Product Data Sheet, specification, MSDS Technical brochure This presentation 8 prototypes as described in following slides Samples (500g) 16
Formulations Available Shampoos Durable Intensive moisturizing shampoo Silicone-free moisture softening shampoo Sulfate-free / Silicone-free conditioning shampoo * Daily conditioners Silicone-free Hair Conditioner with Longlasting Effect Silicone/CTAC-free Hair Conditioner with Long-lasting Effect* Intensive conditioners Hair Mask with Long-lasting Effect 2 phase Detangling Spray Combing Cream All formulations have passed 3 months stability, preservative efficacy testing, and have sensory testing results available 17
Durable Intensive Moisturizing Shampoo Ref: Z309-94 Ingredients (Trade Name INCI) % w/w Supplier Phase A Deionized Water Aqua 22.75 Local Dissolvine Na Disodium EDTA 0.05 AkzoNobel N-DurHance A1000 Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride 1.00 Ashland Betadet HR (30%) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.67 Kao Emal 228D (28%) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 42.75 Kao Glycerin Glycerin 1.00 Local Phase B Ceraphyl 41 C12-15 Alkyl Lactate 0.50 Ashland Escalol HP DimethylPABAmidopropyl Lauryldimonium Tosylate 0.05 Ashland Timiron MP 1001 Mica, Titanium Dioxide 0.10 Merck Phase C Deionized Water Aqua 20.00 Local Citric Acid (50%) Citric Acid 0.05 Local Ashland 980 Carbomer 0.40 Ashland Phase D Optiphen MIT Ultra Methylisothiazolinone (and) Phenylpropanol (and) Propylene Glycol 0.30 Ashland Ceraphyl 60 Quaternium-22 1.00 Ashland Belsil ADM 8301E Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane,Trideceth-5, Glycerin 1.00 Wacker Xiameter MEM 1788 Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate 1.80 Xiameter Perfume Citrus Sparkle & Peach 221 Parfum 0.03 IFF Phase C Sodium Hydroxide (33%) Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 Sigma Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.50 Sigma Total 100.00 *Trademark owned by a third party. 18
Silicone-free Moisture Softening Shampoo Ref: Z327-12C Ingredients (Trade Name INCI) *Trademark owned by a third party. % w/w Supplier Phase A Deionized Water Aqua 24.6 Local Dissolvine Na Disodium EDTA 0.05 AkzoNobel N-DurHance A1000 Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride 1.00 Ashland Betadet HR (30%) Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.67 Kao Emal 228D (28%) Sodium Laureth Sulfate 42.75 Kao Glycerin Glycerin 1.00 Sigma Phase B Ceraphyl 41 C12-15 Alkyl Lactate 0.50 Ashland Timiron MP 1001 Mica, Titanium Oxide 0.1 Merck Phase C Deionized Water Aqua 20.00 Local Citric Acid (50%) Citric Acid 0.05 Local Ashland 980 Carbomer 0.40 Ashland Phase D Optiphen MIT Ultra Preservative Methylisothiazolinone (and) Phenylpropanol (and) Propylene Glycol 0.30 Ashland Ceraphyl 60 Quaternium-22 1.00 Ashland Zenix 4617 Oleth-5 Phosphate 1.00 Ashland Perfume Citrus Sparkle & Peach 221 Parfum 0.03 IFF Phase E Sodium Hydroxide (33%) Sodium Hydroxide 0.05 Local Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.50 Local Total 100.00 19
Sulfate / Silicone-free Conditioning Shampoo Ref: Z327-35 Ingredients (Trade Name INCI) % w/w Supplier Phase A Deionized Water Aqua 55.96 Local Dissolvine Na Disodium EDTA 0.15 AkzoNobel N-DurHance A1000 conditioning polymer Phase B Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride 1.00 Ashland Glycerin GG Glycerin 3.00 Local Benecel E10M Rheology modifier Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 0.30 Ashland Timiron MP 1001 Mica, Titaniumdioxide 0.10 Merck Phase c Iselux LQ-CLR-SB (30%) Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate 19.00 Innospec Lumerol K5019 Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate 8.00 Zschimmer&Schwartz Betadet HR Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.00 Kao Citrus Sparkle & Peach 221 Parfum 0.03 IFF Optiphen MIT Ultra preservative Methylisothiazolinone (and) Phenylpropanol (and) Propylene Glycol 0.30 Ashland Phase D Deionized Water Aqua 3.00 Local Surfathix N Acrylates Copolymer 3.00 Ashland Phase E Sodium Hydroxide (33%) Sodium Hydroxide (33%) 0.30 Local Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 1.00 Local Total 100.00 *Trademark owned by a third party. 20
Sensory Evaluation Wet Bleached Caucasian hair WET state on Caucasian bleached hair- 5 washes with 0.1 g/g hair shampoo Coatedness Smoothness Detangling 5 4 3 2 1 0 Combability Stickiness Commercial silicone-free shampoo Z327-12 Silicone-free shampoo Commercial total repair shampoo Z309-94 Durable Intense moisturizing shampoo Slipperiness After multiple washes both silicone-free (Z327-12) and silicone-containing (Z309-94) prototype shampoo outperform the commercial shampoos in combability / detangling and smoothness. 21
Continuity Daily-Use Conditioner with Long-lasting Effect Ref: Z309-48 Ingredients ( Trade name/inci) % wt Supplier Phase A Deionized water Aqua 86.37 Local N-DurHance A-1000 Polyacrylamidopropyl trimonium Chloride 2.50 Ashland Dissolvine EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.10 AkzoNobel Natrosol 250 HHR PC Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.00 Ashland Varisoft 300 Cetrimonium Chloride 3.00 Evonik Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 0.50 Local Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.20 Local Phase B Jeechem S-13 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 0.70 Jeen Quartamin AB Behentrimonium Chloride 0.30 Kao Glyceryl Stearate Glyceryl Stearate 0.30 Local Kalcol 6850 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50 Kao Isopropyl Myristate Isopropyl Myristate 1.00 Local Phase C Citrus Sparkle & Peach 221 Parfum 0.03 IFF Optiphen BSB-W preservative Benzyl Alcohol (and) Aqua (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate 0.50 Ashland Citric Acid Citric Acid To ph 4-4,5 Local Total 100,00 *Trademark owned by a third party. 22
Longevity Hair Conditioner with Long-lasting Effect Ref:Z327-3 Ingredients (Trade name/ INCI) % wt Supplier Phase A Deionized water Aqua 88.37 Local N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Natrosol 250 HHR PC Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride Hydroxyethylcellulose 2.50 1.00 Ashland Ashland Dissolvine * NA2S Disodium EDTA 0.10 AkzoNobel Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 0.50 Local Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.20 Local Phase B Jeechem * S-13 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 1.00 Jeen Quartamin * AB Behentrimonium Chloride 1.00 Kao Cithrol * GMS 40 Glyceryl Stearate 0.30 Croda Kalcol * 6850 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.50 Kao X-Tend 226 ester Phenethyl Benzoate 1.00 Ashland Phase C Citrus Sparkle & Peach 221 Parfum 0.03 IFF Optiphen BSB-W preservative Benzyl Alcohol (and) Aqua (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate 0.50 Ashland Citric Acid Citric Acid a.n. Local Total 100,00 *Trademark owned by a third party. 23
Intensity Nourishing Hair Mask Ref: Z309-86C Ingredients (INCI/ Trade name) Weight (%) Supplier Phase A Deionized water Aqua 72.97 Local Dissolvine Na Disodium EDTA 0.10 AkzoNobel Natrosol Plus 330 CS Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.10 Ashland Glycerin Glycerin 2.00 Local Phase B Varisoft 300 (30%) Cetrimonium Chloride 5.00 Evonik Prolipid 161 Behenyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Hydroxyethyl Cetearylamidopropyldimonium Chloride 2.50 Ashland Kalcol 6850 Cetearyl alcohol 6.00 Kao Glyceryl stearate Glyceryl stearate 1.00 Local Phase C N-Durhance A1000 Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride 5.00 Ashland Xiameter MEM 1785 Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate 2.50 Dow Corning Belsil ADM 8301E Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Glycerin 2.50 Wacker Citrus Sparkle & Peach 221 Parfum 0.03 IFF Optiphen BSB-W preservative Citric acid Benzyl Alcohol (and) Aqua (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate 0.30 Ashland Phase D Citric acid To ph 4 4.5 Local *Trademark owned by a third party. 24
Powerstay Long lasting Detangling Spray Ref:Z309-54B Ingredients (Trade name/inci) Water Phase Wt% Supplier Demin. water Aqua 98.39 Local N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride 0.50 Ashland Varisoft 300 (30%) Cetrimonium Chloride 0.70 Evonik Jeeteric LM-M30 Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 0.08 Jeen Optiphen MIT Ultra preservative Methylisothiazolinone (and) Phenylpropanol (and) Propylene Glycol 0.30 Ashland Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.03 Local Total 100.00 Oil Phase Cyclopentasiloxane Cyclopentasiloxane 90.75 Local Alcohol Alcohol Denat. 1.20 Local Belsil CM 3092 Dimethiconol (and) Cyclopentasiloxane 7.00 Wacker Jeeteric LM-M30 Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 0.05 Jeen X-Tend 226 ester Phenethyl Benzoate 1.00 Ashland Total 100.00 *Trademark owned by a third party. 25
Durability Leave on Combing cream Ref:Z327-8B Ingredients (Trade Name INCI) % wt Supplier Phase A Deionized Water Water/Aqua 90.49 Local Natrosol 250 HHR PC Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.00 Ashland Dissolvine * NA Disodium EDTA 0.10 AkzoNobel Sodium Hydroxide (33%) Sodium Hydroxide 0.03 Local Glycerin Glycerin 1.00 Sigma Phase B ProLipid 151 lamellar gel Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Stearyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Hydroxyethyl Cetearylamidopropyldimonium Chloride (and) Myristyl Alcohol 2.00 Ashland Kalcol * 6850 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 Kao Ceraphyl RMT ester Castoryl Maleate 0.50 Ashland Ceraphyl SLK ester Isodecyl Neopentanoate 1.00 Ashland Phase C N-DurHance A-1000 polymer Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride 1.00 Ashland Citrus Sparkle & Peach 221 Parfum 0.03 IFF Optiphen MIT Ultra preservative Phase D Methylisothiazolinone (and) Phenylpropanol (and) Propylene Glycol 0.30 Ashland Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.05 Local Total 100.00 *Trademark owned by a third party. 26