Remo Ruffini, President and CEO of Moncler Issue # 31 September 30th 2015 Marcolin obtains Moncler The first collection under the new license agreement will be launched by March 2016. pg. 3 Is there a crisis in China? Italia Independent Group continues to grow pg. 3 From Hong Kong, Lisa Jucca, Asia Finance Editor for Reuters, sketches out the Chinese market. pg. 2
Is there a crisis in China? Lisa Jucca, Asia Finance Editor for Reuters, talks exclusively to WMIDO about what is happening in the world s second largest economy. What is the reason for China s economic crisis? For 30 years China has grown at an annual rate of over 10% because of massive industrial development and it is now entering a normalization stage, which is inevitable for an emerging economy that is becoming more mature. Today, China is the world s second largest economy after the United States and has 7% growth, a figure that is astounding for countries like Italy. But there has been a decline in this trend. Factories in China have reached saturation levels, in other words they produce more washing machines, shoes and computers than the market needs. When there is a falloff in demand, the government is forced to promote large infrastructural works to support growth. But this creates considerable indebtedness and China s debt both public and private is now over 250% of GDP. Is there a risk that the crisis will create a social gap between rich and poor and emphasize the existing gap between the cities and the countryside? China is becoming an urbanized country with considerable wealth in only a few hands. Over 50% of Chinese live in cities, with more than 20 million inhabitants in Beijing and Shanghai. But the real problem with China s strong industrialization and urbanization is its devastating impact on the environment. Today, a third of China s rivers are polluted and in large cities inhabitants must wear anti-smog masks because of air pollution. Beijing is promoting the use of clean energy, but converting millions of factories takes time. What effect is this crisis having or will have on Europe and the United States? The first effect of the slowing down of the Chinese economy was the collapse in the demand for oil and other raw materials. Since it does not have huge energy resources, China is forced to import them. But a drop in production was accompanied by a reduction in the import of energy sources. More worrying for Europe and for Italy is the downturn in domestic demand: because of the size of the Chinese market, this is felt by European exports in all sectors, from cars to apparel and accessories. If growth in China slows even more, Beijing could be facing unemployment almost non-existent at the moment and with it the risk of social instability. What are the possible ways out? The answers to the crisis can come from China itself. The government is trying to steer the economy increasingly toward the services sector. It is also attempting to make companies more competitive, but because they are frequently state-owned it is difficult to foster competition in an economy that for many years has been under the influence of state subsidies and protected by a closed market. There are good proposals, but the slowing down and collapse of the stock exchange could delay the reforms that China needs. world weekly wonders WMIDO 2
Luxottica included in Forbes ranking Sixty-fifth for innovation, worldwide, and the only Italian company in the top 100 for the five continents. These are the ratings of The World s Most Innovative Companies ranking according to Forbes, the authoritative American magazine that awarded Luxottica for creativity and innovative materials in the 2015 edition. Luxottica the reasons state has never backed away from experimentation. It was one of the first to latch on to the trend of using materials typical of the aerospace industry and is experimenting with the first 3-D molds. The Oakley brand is working with chip manufacturer Intel on a new line of smart eyewear expected for next year. The development of wearable technology opens up new horizons for innovation and is also the basis of the collaboration with Google announced in 2014. Both these partnerships are certain to expand the confines of eyewear. Italia Independent Group continues to grow Italia Independent s strong growth continues with a 34.7% increase in net turnover during the first half of 2015 compared to the same period in 2014. Consolidated net turnover stood at 24.94 million euros thanks primarily to the growth of the eyewear sector: in the first half of this year, it generated 86% of revenues (against 82.6% in the same period last year). The eyewear sector in particular has experienced increased turnover in Italy (+43.9% compared to the first half of 2014) and abroad, with significant growth in Spain, France, Germany (5.16 million euros vs 3.49 million euros), USA and the rest of the world (4.82 million euros vs 3.84 million euros). Indications of good performance by foreign markets that account for 46.5% of revenues from eyewear. Andrea Tessitore and Lapo Elkann Moncler chooses Marcolin Giovanni Zoppas, CEO of the Marcolin Group Last week the Marcolin Group and Moncler SpA signed an exclusive global license agreement for the design, manufacture and distribution of sunglasses, men s and women s optical frames and ski goggles for men, women and children with the Moncler label. The license will run from January 2016 through December 2020, with the option to renew for another 5 years. The launch of the first eyewear collection is scheduled for March 2016. Apropos of this, Marcolin Group CEO Giovanni Zoppas commented: The partnership with Moncler will give Marcolin the opportunity to target the world of consumers for whom the product is everything. Of the same opinion is Remo Ruffini, president and CEO of Moncler: We are extremely pleased about the agreement with Marcolin, one of the world s leaders in the eyewear sector. Marni s eyewear goes to Marchon Marni and Marchon have signed a global license agreement for the development, manufacture and distribution of Marni Eyewear collections under the guidance and artistic direction of Consuelo Castiglioni. The two companies will launch the new men s and women s collections in the sun and optical segments from spring/summer 2016. The aim of the partnership is to further expand Marni s accessories collections by establishing a long-term agreement with the American group. The collections will be distributed to Marni boutiques and a selected network of eye care professionals and fashion retailers throughout the world. During the last twelve months Marni celebrated with a series of international events its first 20 years, that have been characterized by unique styles and designs, frequently as an alternative to the world of traditional luxury. world weekly wonders WMIDO 3
The third time for Neymar Jr For the third year running, Police has chosen Neymar Jr - the famous Brazilian forward who plays for the FC Barcelona soccer team - as the testimonial for its line of eyewear. Once again the visuals for the advertising campaign are by Rankin, one of the world s most famous photographers who boasts shots of international celebrities in his portfolio. Together with Neymar Jr is beautiful Uruguay top model Constanza Saravia. The theme is reflections : with a play of mirrors and the ingenious touch of the photographer, the different Neymars are shot from different angles. Spontaneous and feisty, Neymar Jr is idolized by men and women of all ages and is the perfect embodiment of the spirit of the Police brand. With over 53 million followers on Facebook and another 30 million fans on Instagram, the star of world soccer has reached the pinnacle of success in just a few years. A new license agreement for Brando Eyewear A music compilation for Kuboraum Brando Eyewear, a wholly owned subsidiary of the Mondottica Group, has announced a license agreement with Alyson Magee. The license will run until 2022 and the first collection of sunglass and optical frames is scheduled for launch in the fall of 2016 and will be available at major retailers, worldwide. Starting in the mid-80s with Alain Mikli, Alyson is best known as the co-founder and creative force behind the Face à Face brand for nearly ten years. She has worked for brands as diverse as Lafont and Anglo-American and in 2005 Alain Mikli launched the first Alyson Magee collection under license, where it ran for five years. Since leaving Mikli she has worked under the radar for some of the world s best known brands. Last August, during the Berlin Atonal Festival - which hosted world-class artists of contemporary, electronic and experimental music - Kuboraum Berlin presented together with the legendary British music producer and artist Karl O Conor, aka Regis, their very first music compilation The Immortal. Eye of only 21 numbered editions, worldwide. The box set features 5 so far unreleased tracks by Oake, Talker, Grebenstein & Joscha Bauer, Antonym and Autumns on Regis Downwards Records label. All 21 CDs include a pair of handcrafted Kuboraum Mask C7 Layers Burnt sunglasses. The Immortal Eye was released on Friday, August 21, at a sound installation by OAKE and Regis at the Kuboraum Flagship Store in Berlin. Turn over design by Mario Milana Giacomo Canessa CEO Malo Eugenio Manghi CEO Betty Blue Corrado Masini General Director Moschino Lorenzo Panerai COO Pollini Simona Zito General Director for Italy Chopard world weekly wonders WMIDO 4
Design, fashion & lifestyle Heads down in Paris The Unfinished exhibition Sebastian Erras, a young photographer from Germany, has found a different and very interesting way to depict Paris. Instead of focusing on the classics - from the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame Cathedral, to the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre, from the Champs-Elysées to Montmartre - Sebastian has looked down and photographed the floors at his feet. The resulting project, Parisian Floors, shows how much beauty is to be found even on the ground: tiles, mosaics or geometrical patterns become real works of art. And to remind us that these are in fact floors, Sebastian has signed every photograph with his feet. Mercanteinfiera OFF returns to Parma from September 25 through October 31 with an avant-garde exhibition dedicated to the unfinished works of international artists provided by the digital museum MoRE an acronym of Museum Of REfused and unrealized art projects. Over 30 never completed projects by artists who over time have become successful on the national and international cultural scene, are hosted at Palazzo Pigorini. Entrance is free to the exhibition curated by Elisabetta Modena and Marco Scotti (the creators of MoRE) which gives visitors a chance to see unfinished projects by Valerio Berruti, Davide Bertocchi, David Casini, CRASH! (Scott King & Matthew Worley), Matthew Darbyshire, Regina José Galindo, Goldschmied & Chiari, just to mention a few. Emporio Armani The age of genderless accessories According to the latest edition of Mipel the Bag Show from September 1 through 4 at Rho- FieraMilano, the increasingly intimate blend of male and female that emerged in the men s fashion shows, is expressed through the arbitrary use of accessories. So homosexuality and transsexuality has been joined by genderless or liquid sensuality, to use a term borrowed from the web. Amid arguments and debates, fashion is aestheticizing the phenomenon that in the world of show business is already embodied by Conchita Wurst, the splendid and disconcerting creature with a thick dark beard. The consequence? Simple. New and important opportunities are opening in the leather goods market that in this particular economic climate should not be missed. Shoes like sculptures The creative partnership continues between Errazuriz and Melissa, the Brazilian brand famous for its rubber footwear. After the exhibition in 2013, which featured 12 footwear models inspired by 12 different types of lovers - 12 shoes for 12 lovers -, the duo has returned with a capsule collection based on the exhibition. The shoe-sculptures of 2013 were printed in 3D and challenged the laws of fashion and design but the new models have not fallen short: The Boss proposes chic brass knuckles while the heel of The Goldigger has been replaced by a golden miniature atlas.the shoes will be on sale at shops in London, São Paulo and New York City. Editorial Director: Francesco Gili MIDO Srl Unipersonale Via Petitti, 16-20149 Milano (Italy) Phone +39 02 32673673 P. Iva IT 07164050150 Cod. Fiscale e n. Iscr. Ufficio Imprese di Milano 07164050150 Cap. soc. 120.000,00 i.v. R.e.a. 1710133 Company subject to the direction and the coordination of Anfao - Associazione Nazionale Fabbricanti Articoli Ottici WMido is published in cooperation with Publicomm srl Via Quadrio 20/40-20154 Milano (Italy) P. Iva 02030290999 email: redazione@wmido.com world weekly wonders WMIDO 5