Resort 2012 10 Crosby Alexander Wang Alice And Olivia Alice Balmain Carolina Herrera Carven Christian Louboutin Collette Dinnigan Derek Lam Diane Von Furstenberg Elie Saab Elizabeth And James Erdem Erin J Mendel Jason Wu Jonathan Saunders Lela Rose Marchesa Matthew Williamson Michael Angel Monique Lhuillier Nicholas Kirkwood Oscar De La Renta Peter Pilotto Peter Som Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler Roland Mouret Roksanda Ilincic Tashia Theyskens Theory Temperley London The Row Vera Wang Vpl Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo 10 Crosby Alexander Wang Alice And Olivia Alice Balmain Carolina Herrera Carven Christian Louboutin Collette Dinnigan Derek Lam Diane Von Furstenberg Elie Saab Elizabeth And James Erdem Erin J Mendel Jason Wu Jonathan Saunders Lela Rose Marchesa Matthew Williamson Michael Angel Monique Lhuillier Nicholas Kirkwood Oscar De La Renta Peter Pilotto Peter Som Prabal Gurung Preen Proenza Schouler Roland Mouret Roksanda Ilincic Tashia Theyskens Theory Temperley London The Row Vera Wang Vpl Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Designed by
MICHAEL ANGEL This season, I continued to evolve print by working to repeat, scale and panel artwork for the first time ever, which resulted in patchwork, micro-plaid and an original stripe. Colors like raspberry red, sunshine yellow and deep teal seen in the collection, are brought to life in sun-faded linen, sand-washed crepe de Chine and silk twill. Fusing the prints and fabrications together was a playful approach that led us to images full of character and emotion - clothes that have distinct personality. Our woman is unapologetic, witty and oddly elegant. - Michael Angel PETER SOM This collection is all about crisp and graphic clothes that are effortless but also have a sense of fun and style. Peter Som 2 3
JASON WU Resort was inspired by all these colorful houses in Puerto Rico. I went to Old San Juan for vacation and the houses looked like they came out of a movie set but they re actually the most traditional houses. There was even a pink church with white molding! The architecture I thought it was really charming, it felt really happy and completely influenced the Resort collection. - Jason Wu ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO In need of sun during a cold dreary winter, Maria Cornejo looked to her travels in warmer climates for inspiration. A voyage to Miami takes the collection to a tropical paradise filled with sun, clear ocean waters and hibiscus plants. Prints are personal photographs taken by Maria; the Flora Print is a kaleidoscope of blossoming flowers, the graphic black and white Tile Print and the Chocolate Flake Print feels like an English chocolate bar. Like a Bird of Paradise, the collection is filled with bright colors jade, guava, fuchsia pink, neon, sun yellow and warm coppers. Fabrics are either structured - reef jacquard and punctured leather like the scales of a fish or fluid - fluorescent colored silk velvet and bold double stretch georgette. Styles are high-waisted a short peeking drape dress paired with a structured tobacco leather jacket, body conscious yet voluminous. A collarless tuxedo jacket and wide legged pants in white cupro herringbone or a silk taffeta tunic and shorts make modern twists to classic tailored suits. Cropped knee pants in structured Drill elongate the leg. Eveningwear is in a long super slim fuchsia dress, a long grosgrain strapped flower print dress or an yves blue cut out dress. 4 5
PREEN This Resort SS12 Collection was inspired by our travels in Japan and in particular Kyoto, the clash of tradition and craft with modern and technology really inspired us. -Thornton Bregazzi Diane Von Furstenberg Urban surfer, beach networker and snowboarding dreamer are what Diane von Furstenberg and Yvan Mispelaere had in mind for this collection. Holiday impulse light and impactful. A wrap jumper and featherweight dresses give off a collected and casual vibe. Sportswear pieces with a twist knits adorned with neon zippers, windbreakers reinterpreted as silk vests, a nonchalant ladylike jacket with surf shorts or a sporty top with a gray mélange ruffled skirt. Clean, sharp silhouettes in muted shades of gray, white and nude come alive with shocking jolts of orange, blue and acid green. All the colors fade back to black so they can be worn virtually anywhere Lots of soft layers, like Millefeuille...or sharp angles a la origami Prints are as graphic as ever. Inspired by street culture yet romantic a balance of hip-hop and heartfelt. Accessories are important, they punctuate the overall look with elegant edginess. Whether in neutrals or vibrant colors oversized bags are functional and fun. A satchel is unzipped to become weekendready with an expandable hidden neon layer. Shoes are modern, sexy, smart and sharp with slashes of silver and neon. Sunglasses are mirrored to reflect a sporty and mysterious persona. Effortlessly cool at once selfassured, mischievous, playful and vivacious 6 7
THEYSKEN S THEORY Leave it to Theyskens to give acid wash a new lease on life. His denim pieces had a slouchy, 1980 s sensibility, as in the acid yellow shorts a model wore with a white shirt and a mélange knit linen sweater, or the baggy red jeans the designer paired with an ombré button-down and a bouclé blazer with a U-shaped cutaway on the back. Just like it sounds, quirky tailoring played a big part in the collection. The goal of the cutaways and collar slits, he explained, was to give jackets the ease of a cardigan without losing a shred of their edgy elegance. Breezy bias-cut dresses in delicate prints inspired by the work of painter James Ensor aren t necessarily oozing edge, but add one of Theyskens cropped and fitted leather perfecto jackets and voilà. 10 CROSBY DEREK LAM For Resort 11 I was inspired by the idea of pairing traditional men s pajamas proportions with smart feminine tailoring. This mix of relaxed lounge garments and sophisticated career wear fells new and the way a downtown woman would go to work or even out in the evening. I was fascinated by taking men s pajama patterns such as checks and paisleys and giving them fresh often oversized proportions and graphic color combinations. The fabrics are all crisp and sometimes quite classic but cut in unexpected ways such as a fitted gown made in semi-sheer shirting fabric or bi-stretch equestrian twill angled modern blazer - Derek Lam 8 9
CAROLINA HERRERA I always start with a woman in mind and this season more than ever. This collection embraces the mood that feels right for today-light in spirit and fabrics, strong in color and never ever too serious. The new collection for Resort embraces how a woman of today lives, from an easy Capri pant to a knit t-shirt all the way to a spectacular evening dress with movement and of course, just the right amount of drama. Throughout all, you will find a touch of something, a hint of grosgrain touches almost all pieces throughout the collection, a little embroidery for sparkle-always something to make it unique. -Carolina Herrera NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD Pre Spring/Summer 2012, as a precursor to the main Spring/Summer Collection, introduces a lighter, feminine feel to the Kirkwood aesthetic both in terms of colour and fabrications, offering an array of trans seasonal options. Key styles include the Apache Sandal, offered in water snake and lace fused calf, while the diverse colour palette offers options in sky, acid yellow and neon blush as well as softer shades of latte, coral and peach gold. 10 11
ELIE SAAB ELIE SAAB is launching its first precollection, for the Spring-Summer 2012 Resort season. This new collection is the most recent launch in the Haute Couture house s development strategy, which launched its ready-to -wear collection in 1998 and an accessories collection in 2005. This year also sees the launch of ELIE SAAB s first fragrance, which will be available to buy as of the forthcoming Haute Couture week in Paris. The first ELIE SAAB precollection will present more casual silhouettes than the main readyto-wear line. Dresses, twinsets and tops will come in lightweight fabrics such as silk chiffon, as well as jersey and knitwear. The collection s looks will have a simpler, easier feel to them, all the while retaining ELIE SAAB s brand DNA: femininity, elegance, refinement, attention to detail. Bodycon silhouettes prevail, delicately finished with lace, chiffon, and delicate embroideries. 12 13
VERA WANG Resort 2012 is all about easy shapes with a definite emphasis on prints. Strong brights counterbalanced by gentle geometrics and dots. PROENZA SCHOULER Pre-Spring saw Proenza Schouler revisit the psychedelic folk art vision of the 1960 s. Taking a road trip through the West Coast down and beyond the borders of Mexico crafts were key. Mexican embroideries sit side by side with American patchwork. Luxurious silks and leathers are fused with dry rich cottons and juxtaposed with marbled sequins in deep burnt desert hues. Silhouettes are boyish and cool, a style that has become synonymous with the Proenza Schouler girl. Accessories are an exciting offer combining printed python and psychedelic graffiti leathers with grain sack inspired canvases and topped with patchwork wedges. 14 15
BALMAIN Las Vegas, Mexican style, Western style and Elvis. - Olivier Rousteing J. MENDEL For Resort 2012, designer Gilles Mendel has created a collection that is infused with ease, elegance and understated luxury. Inspired by a trip to the Southwest, Mendel focused on the texture, beauty and drama of the desert and the canyons and translated these qualities into new ways of manipulating fabric. Delicate trims were added to cool, slouchy separates and layers of hand-frayed organza to long, sinuous gowns. I wanted to take the raw elements of nature and present them in a very cool couture-like way, says Mendel. The ripple of the fabric like the raw edges of the canyon, the colors taken from the setting sun - everything is organic but still fresh and made for the chic urban customer. 16 17
JONATHAN SAUNDERS Inspired by Victorian wallpaper motifs, Saunders wanted the Resort collection to be more feminine, replacing the strict silhouette of Autumn Winter with voluminous skirts with below-the-knee lengths. ERDEM For this season I was particularly inspired by screen actresses Tippi Hedren and Romy Schneider. This Pre-Spring 2012 print evokes the same combined sense of intensity and restraint. -Erdem Moralioglu 18 19
PETER PILOTTO Abstract florals, leaves, and imagery drawn from microscopic views of fabric, metallic thread, and mercury are the key graphic motifs in the collection. California beach culture, evident in the clover prints and sunny colors evoke the joyous spirit of the season. MARCHESA Marchesa s Resort 2012 collection is a breath of Riviera air inspired by Slim Aarons A Place in the Sun. The collection is a burst of 1950 s provenance with sun kissed tints, from coral to aquamarine to seafoam and fuschsia. Feather light pleated organza s, delicate silk chiffons and sculpted gazar combine with airy animal prints to create sophisticated seaside glamour. Floaty and summery waves of citrus, emerald, papaya and fresh white are adorned with jewel inspired beading and embellishments. With an ode to never-ending glamour and effortless joie de vie Marchesa s Resort 12 collection is a modern day way to «Catch a Thief» and look endlessly chic doing so. 20 21
OSCAR DE LA RENTA 22 23
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PRABAL GURUNG The Resort 2012 collection is inspired by the portraits seen throughout the George Condo: Mental States exhibit that was showcased at the New Museum and Yayoi Kusama s uniquely vibrant aesthetic. Kusama s art channels the free love moment of the 1960 s with her bright pop colors, polka dot motifs and colorful, floral prints. The silhouettes are relaxed including A line day dresses and sheaths, youthful cocktail dresses inspired by the 50 s, slouchy menswear detailed shirting in exuberant prints and textures, cropped jackets with hardware and long, lean pants. The color palette is composed of bright pink, yellow, green and orange with an incorporation of neutrals such as khaki, black and white. Fabrics this season will include washed silk gazar, cotton faille, printed fille coupe bow detailing, woven cotton, canvas matelasse, silk and cotton matelasse and colorful intarsia knits inspired by vintage prints. ERIN This season Erin Fetherston s romantic aesthetic is expressed with a soft color palette and delicate details. Inspired by the joy of holiday dressing, Fetherston offers an array of whimsical pieces with subtle adornments in her signature mix of ivory, blush and black, which is intensified with a bold infusion of conceptual zebra print and a pop of fuschsia. Fetherston ultimately creates a collection of easy to wear pieces that are ethereal, feminine and playfully chic. 26 27
ALEXANDER WANG The Alexander Wang Resort 2012 Collection follows the fast pace and exhilaration of competitive sports, capturing movement and colors with their own pulse. Extracting elements from cycling, swimming, and running and absorbing them into new perspectives, pieces fluctuate between the overlap of sport and utility. Shirts have elongated carpenter pockets; a compact cotton worker vest is paired with a scuba waistband ; and a windbreaker funnel neck fuses with a boiled wool blazer. Patterns from cycling uniforms inspire the graphic multi colored nylon windbreakers. Baseball jerseys, perforated track pants, mesh bonded inserts, basketball pinnies and intarsia knits help create the new urban uniform. THE ROW For Resort 2012, THE ROW continues to expand its range, paying particular attention to the superior tailoring techniques on which it was founded. Ethereal forms and embroideries evoke the Belle Époque, the cultural golden age of late 19th century Europe. Strong masculine shapes in exquisite cottons are paired with fluid silhouettes of silks and floral embroideries formed of metal filaments. Jackets constructed of cashmere linen in a Prince of Wales check along with crisp white separates reflect a classic sartorial elegance. Playful luxury takes form in a sailorstriped minks, cottons, cashmeres. Coastal colors of blue, mint, lilac, and white conjures the joie de vivre of the French Riviera. 28 29
MONIQUE LHUILLIER 30 31
ROKSANDA ILINCIC The collection was inspired by a relaxed and luxurious old Hollywood ambience. Fresh spring colours added a real crispness to it. With electric green and tangerine against navy and white, the colours work to make the cut of the pieces stand out. There is a lightness to the collection, with bold cut out details alongside the drapes. This collection is all about an effortless, casual glamour. ZAC POSEN From extravagant gowns to daywear suiting, Posen s namesake collection empowers the strong, sexy, creative, and intelligent women who have become synonymous with the label. The Resort 2012 collection looks towards the historical and emblematic archetypes of femininity and juxtaposes them with structured and architectural design. Fusing classic couture techniques with his acute understanding of the feminine silhouette, Posen s signature style brings to life the idea of regality and the aspiration for luxury. 32 33
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON The photography of Araki and the juxtaposition of dynamic Tokyo cityscapes with traditional Japanese gardens inspire this seasons collection. Pre-Spring 2012 explores the idea of relaxed glamour and feminine laid back luxe. A fresh and juicy palette of jade, apple, raspberry, coral and grape accented with synthetic pops of neon pink and lime keeps the collection very true to the Matthew Williamson DNA. COLLETTE DINNIGAN With an elegant Island adventure in mind, Collette Dinnigan Resort 2011-2012 defines the contemporary female wardrobe, a treasure chest of the sea. Flawlessly nonchalant, the collection takes us on an exciting journey of deep sea beauty. Clean Japanese lines influence the silhouette this season with a focus on the lean and elegant. Shapes are effortless and fluid; kimono inspired gowns and dresses, voluminous chiffon with slash details, sculpted cocktail dresses, easy trousers and softly belted waistlines all contribute to this aesthetic. Luxe natural fabrications of silk and linen are combined with foiled lacquered lace, patchworks of mixed brocade and ombre hand sequin. Traditional techniques of silk thread embroidery are mixed with intricate metal embellishments and bright pom pom trims to emphasise the visual contradictions found within Japanese culture. 34 35