AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-15 Milan 1 Cut Proportions 1. Fendi 2. Cividini 3. Scognamiglio 4. Antonio Marras 5. Salvatore Ferragamo 6. Angelo Marani Now that fur/fabric combinations are the norm, we are seeing more cut up proportions come into play adding a new graphic sensibility to the trend. Fox snippets were added to a mesh and wool dress at Fendi while at Cividini and Francesco Scognamiglio, a paneled tee and corseted coat look had a modern appeal. Dimensional contrasts at Antonio Marras and Salvatore Ferragamo added a luxe touch to an evening coat and moto jacket style, while at Angelo Marani, a full fox lapel created an interesting textural look for a! sleeve coat silhouette.
Milan Trend 2 A Textural Mix 1. Salvatore Ferragamo 2. Kristina Ti 3. Massimo Rebecchi 4. Marni 5. Krizia 6. Fendi A huge trend from the Milan runway shows was for bold textural mixes that used contrasting colour rather than the more tonal looks of past season. Salvatore Ferragamo worked a metallic astrakhan with natural fur to create a dress/coat look, Kristina Ti added a multi-fox hood to a textural knit and print ensemble and Massimo Rebecchi played with curly and plush fur handles to create a quirky coat silhouette. Marni and Krizia mixed fur with feathers for an off beat cape look and rounded chubby while at Fendi, a diagonally pieced bolero mixed and matched fur textures for a patterned appeal.
Milan Trend 3 Caped Looks 1. Blugirl 2. Dsquared 2 3. Fendi 4. Dolce Gabbana 5. Marni 6. Spotmax As in New York, caped silhouettes made a strong statement at the Milan shows with Blugirl and Dsquared 2 opting for more vintage-inspired looks in animal printed fur and cream mink. At Fendi and Dolce Gabbana, an asymmetrical fur trimmed neoprene silhouette and floral appliquéd metallic two-piece style pushed conventional boundaries for a more directional allure. At Marni, a horizontally tri-coloured cape look had an almost felted feel while Sportmax added elongated shoulder definition to a leopard spot printed style for a modern retro appeal.
Milan Trend 4 Bold Pattern 1. Angelo Marani 2. Blugirl 3. Au Jour Le Jour 4. Marni 5. Prada 6. Roberto Cavalli Bold colour and pattern has been a strong trend throughout the collections so far and in Milan, a large number of designers were tapped into this statement style. We saw geometric pattern work at Angelo Marani, horizontal and vertical striping at Blugirl and Marni, while a fox print dress at Au Jour Le Jour in bright purple and white demonstrated a more whimsical side to the trend. Prada used sheepskin to create a standout trim signature on bold printed outerwear styling while at Roberto Cavalli, linear abstract piecework in black, red and white was worked into a knee-length chubby for an edgy patterned appeal.
Milan Trend 5 Dressed Up Parka Looks 1. Emilio Pucci 2. Max Mara 3. Fendi 4. Fendi 5. Alberta Ferreti 6. Ports 1961 The parka has been a key silhouette for the past few season but what looked new for next winter was a more tailored, dressed up approach that updated traditionally casual styling. Emilio Pucci went for a sleeveless giletinspired version with fur trim detail while at Max Mara and Fendi, coating weights replaced performance fabrics for a tailored update on the look. Also at Fendi, a velvety sheared fur with splattered bleach effect created a soft feminine feel, while at Alberta Ferreti and Ports 1961, satin parkas with plush fur trim merge day into night for a ladylike dressed up appeal.
Milan Trend 6 The Fur Chubby 1. Etro 2. Costume National 3. Emilio Pucci 4. Roberto Cavalli 5. Fendi 6. Sportmax The fur chubby is a classic silhouette that has a timeless appeal and in Milan it was out in full force, showcasing the gorgeous luxurious nature of fur. Etro added an ethnic touch to a cropped style with geometric trim detail, Costume National kept things clean and simple with a minimal white chubby worn over a streamlined mini dress, while at Emilio Pucci, voluminous fox was given a patterned hem, spotted body and contrasting collar for a more decorative feel. Roberto Cavalli and Sportmax relied on the natural texture of fur to make an impact for collared versions of the silhouette while at Fendi, a statement front zip added an edginess to tonal pieced fox for a thoroughly modern appeal.
Milan Trend 7 Animal Printed Furs 1. Dsquared 2 2. Trussardi 3. Sportmax 4. Chicca Lualdi 5. Ermanno Scervino 6. Gucci Animal printed furs continued as a strong direction in Milan with designers like Dsquared 2 and Sportmax summoning the past for vintage ladylike looks in classic leopard spots while others like Trussardi opted for a more modern update in a sporty zebra jacket/skirt ensemble. Chicca Lualdi for Beequeen went for a menswear inspired look with tailored gabardine collar and lapel, while at Ermanno Scervino, a simple shell top looked clean and contemporary and at Gucci, a DB coat with swing hem had a 60s retro appeal.
Milan Trend 8 60s Influences 1. Laura Biagiotti 2. Dsquared 2 3. Fendi 4. Angelo Marani 5. Gucci 6. Dolce Gabbana At the Milan shows, retro influences continued on from this season with the 1960s becoming a key inspiration for silhouette direction. A long Mongolian lamb trimmed cardigan has a Go Go girl feel at Laura Biagiotti while at Dsquared and Fendi, a cropped swing coat in sleek grey mink and short sleeved bolero in plush sheared fur have a classic vintage appeal. A simple edge-to-edge coat is given a groovy pattern detail in tonal mink at Angelo Marani while at Gucci, dyed raccoon is worked into a shrunken peacoat silhouette and Dolce Gabbana uses fur to adorn a neat little suit ensemble with appliquéd flower power for a sophisticated update on 60s dressing.
Milan Trend 9 Plush Top Looks 1. Anteprima 2. Aquilano Rimondi 3. Kristina Ti 4. Dolce Gabbana 5. Fendi 6. Trussardi In London we saw fur worked into sporty pullover silhouettes for next winter but in Milan, a much plusher sophisticated sensibility has emerged from the collections. Dense shearling and luxurious mink shell tops are added to eveningwear looks at Anteprima and Aquilano Rimondi, while at Kristina Ti, plush fur is layered over a floral printed chiffon blouse and patterned skirt for a modern bohemian feel. Velvety sheared fur handles at Dolce Gabbana and Fendi are worked into a decorative jumper style with! balloon sleeves and a punched fur tank layered over a mock neck knit with fox shoulder detail at Fendi. At Trussardi, a plucked fur in saturated pale grey works with a honeycomb knit and leather skirt for a rich sophisticated appeal.
Milan Trend 10 Bohemian Brights 1. Kristina Ti 2. Marni 3. Tods 4. Marco De Vincenzo 5. Prada 6. Massimo Rebecchi As we have seen throughout the collections, dyed fur is a huge trend for next winter but what looked new in Milan was an artful palette of bohemian brights that were worked together through colour blocking or fur placement to create a sense of artistic expression. Kristina Ti and Marni used fox stoles in saturated colour to create horizontal lines while at Tods, a pop of ultraviolet blue offsets an all-mauve grey look and at Marco De Vincenzo and Massimo Rebecchi, fur placement works with print & pattern to create decorative bohemian looks. The contrast of off beat brights and earth tones has a particularly sophisticated feel at Prada, where an artist s eye for colour transforms an oversized sheepskin silhouette that layers over an silky eveningwear style in rich ochre for a masculine/feminine appeal.