PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS Textures The Art of Formulation
textures art of formulation this Guide presents Gattefossé s line of emulsifiers and texturizing specialties. It is organized both by type of end product and by desired functionality. this flexibility allows the formulators to select immediately the best combination of ingredients to maximise their creativity. this creativity is best expressed in unique sensorial performances. Gattefossé has created a line of sensorial emulsifiers bringing solutions for formulating chemists to develop innovative and original textures. this can only be achieved when the sensory features brought by each ingredient are known at the beginning of the formulation process. In order to facilitate this procedure, this guide includes a map of the main sensorial characteristics obtained with Gattefossé s line of emulsifiers. this guide is a precious tool for the creator of personal care products, both as a source of inspiration and as an ubiquitous problem solver. Selection by formula type BUTTERS CREAMS SEMI-FLUID CREAMS LOTIONS GEL CREAMS SPRAYS W/O FORMULATIONS APIFIL CG/ EMULCIRE 61 CG EMULIUM 22 EMULIUM DELTA EMULIUM KAPPA 2 EMULFREE P/CBG GELOT 64 CG HYDROLACTOL 70 PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG PLUROL STEARIQUE SEDEFOS 75 PELLETS CG TEFOSE 1500 CG TEFOSE 2000 CG TEFOSE 2561 CG 3
Selection by texture mapping Our expertise in sensorial analysis has enabled us to create this orientation graph, to help you select the right emulsifier for your formulations. Of course, other textures can be achieved with our sensorial and functional emulsifiers. Texture Mapping Light TOUCH Rich Emulfree Line Emulium Delta Emulium Kappa 2 Plurol Stearique Apifil CG Emulium 22 Fluid TEXTURE Viscous Sensorial emulsifiers Apifil CG/Emulcire 61 CG Emulium Kappa 2 Emulium Delta Emulium 22 Emulfree P/CBG Creamy aspect, high melting sensation, moisturizer for active textures. Rich and glossy aspect, cushion feel, natural moisturizer for active textures, comfort upon application. Luxurious aspect, velvet touch, soft after feel. Fine & elegant aspect, easy spreading, evanescent touch. Light textures, quick-break effect, refreshing aqueous sensation. 4
skin care PROBLEM SOLVERS High alcohol content Hydrolactol 70, Emulfree P/CBG, tefose Line Extreme ph Emulium delta, Gelot 64 CG High electrolyte content Emulium delta, Gelot 64 CG, Emulium 22 W/O formulation Plurol diisostearique CG, Hydracire S Viscosity stabilization Emulfree P/CBG PEG FREE & SENSITIVE SKIN FORMULATION Surfactant free formulations Emulfree P/CBG PEG free formulations Emulium Kappa 2, Plurol Line, Hydracire S SOLUBILIZERS & DISPERSERS Superior solubilizer transcutol CG Pigment wetter Cocoate BG TEXTURIZING SPECIALTIES Creaminess & melting touch Lipocire A Body and softness Hydracire S Viscosity & consistency Compritol 888 CG, Emulcire 61 CG Oil gelling agent Compritol 888 CG, Emulcire 61 CG HaiR care CONDITIONERS Emulsifiers tefose HC, Apifil CG/Emulcire 61 CG, Emulium 22 Improved hair shine tefose HC Split end treatment transcutol CG HAIR COLORING Emulsifiers Color enhancement & solubilizers HAIR STYLING Butters Creams, Putties, Mousses Waxes tefose HC transcutol CG Apifil CG/Emulcire 61 CG, tefose HC, Hydracire S tefose HC Compritol 888 CG 5
sun care SUN FILTER FORMULATIONS Organic sun filters Inorganic & organic filters High SPF, 40+ Emulfree Line, tefose Line, Emulium Line, Apifil CG/Emulcire 61 CG, Hydracire S Apifil CG/Emulcire 61 CG, Emulium 22, Emulium delta, tefose Line, Hydrolactol 70, Sedefos 75, Hydracire S Emulium 22, Emulium delta, Hydracire S IMPROVED WATER RESISTANCE W/O formulation Plurol diisostearique CG O/W formulation Emulfree P/CBG SPRAYABLE SUNSCREENS Aqueous, cool sensation Phase Inversion Temperature Emulsion Emulfree P/CBG tefose 2000 CG SPF BOOSTERS Solubilizers & pigment dispersers Cocoate BG SELF TANNING PRODUCTS (DHA) Color uniformity transcutol CG Superior stability Emulium delta make up PRESSED POWDERS Compacting/lubricant Liquid binding agent Compritol 888 CG Isostearyl Isostearate, Cocoate BG LIPSTICK, MASCARA, EYELINER Pigment wetter & color development Cocoate BG Emulsifier moisturizer Apifil CG Improved spreading (lipstick) Lipocire A, Hydracire S Addition of water Hydracire S FOUNDATIONS Emulsifiers Anhydrous or W/O formulation High pigment load Pigment spreading & color uniformity Oil thickening Emulium delta, Emulium 22, Apifil CG/Emulcire 61 CG, Hydrolactol 70 Plurol diisostearique CG, Hydracire S Cocoate BG Cocoate BG Compritol 888 CG 6
sensorial emulsifiers NAME FORM INCI VALIdAtEd APIFIL CG PELLEtS PEG-8 Beeswax EMULFREE CBG LIQuId Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol Cocoate (and) Ethylcellulose EMULFREE P LIQuId Propylene Glycol Laurate (and) Ethylcellulose (and) Propylene Glycol Isostearate EMULIUM 22 PELLEtS tribehenin PEG-20 Esters EMULIUM DELTA PELLEtS Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 EMULIUM KAPPA 2 PELLEtS Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate functional emulsifiers EMULCIRE 61 CG PELLEtS Cetyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 GELOT 64 CG PELLEtS Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate HYDROLACTOL 70 BLOCK Glyceryl Stearate (and) Propylene Glycol Stearate (and) Glyceryl Isostearate (and) Propylene Glycol Isostearate (and) Oleth-25 (and) Ceteth-25 PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG LIQuId Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate PLUROL STEARIQUE PELLEtS Polyglyceryl-6 distearate 7
This line is designed to confer unique sensorial characteristics to emulsified personal care products. HAIR CARE MAKE UP SKIN CARE SUN CARE TOILETRIES PROPERtIES APPLICAtIONS O/W emulsifier for creams, to be used in combination with EMuLCIRE 61 for semi-fluid emulsions or lotions. unique natural modified beeswax. Excellent compatibility with all types of lipophilic ingredients and inorganic powders. In vivo substantiated moisturizing properties. Innovative emulsifier-free and PEG-free system. Incorporated into the oil phase, allows the formation of a bigel : an intimate blend between an oil and a gelled aqueous phase. Wide compatibility with cosmetic oils including non-polar oils. Offers excellent emulsion-like sensory benefits. Provides natural non-transfer and water-resistance properties, substantiated in vivo. Recommended for sensitive skin products. Innovative oil-based emulsifier-free and PEG-free system which allows the formation of a bigel : an intimate blend between an oil and a gelled aqueous phase. Excellent compatibility with medium to high polarity oils, sun filters and perfumes. Non transfer and water-resistant properties. Recommended for sensitive skin products. unique O/W emulsifier for creams and lotions, based on substantive behenic chain. Fine and particularly homogeneous dispersions. Provides thixotropic behavior for improved spreadability (SPF booster) and comfort during application. Wide compatibility with oils, ph and specific active ingredients (Zn derivatives, dha ). Elegant paradox between rich and creamy appearance and evanescent feel. Excellent dispersion of pigments, ideal for foundations and tinted emulsions. O/W emulsifier for creams. Adapted to most cosmetic oil phases, tricky actives (such as straighteners, hydrogen peroxide creams, antiperspirants, dha ), extreme ph ranges (3-13). Adjustable sensory profile depending on use level and optional presence of gelling agent. Presence of liquid crystal structure. Natural, PEG-free emulsifier bringing extreme luxurious softness to your formulations. EMuLIuM KAPPA 2 is based on a patented technology of hydrophilized vegetable waxes that can absorb up to 6 times their weight in water. EMuLIuM KAPPA 2 boosts moisturizing capacity, providing the skin with a unique, cushion-soft feel and long-lasting comfort. This selection of high performance emulsifiers, addresses the challenges of sophisticated formulations. O/W emulsifier for creams. Allows the formulation of stable emulsions in the presence of difficult-to-use actives (depilatories, AHAs, hair relaxers, hand creams with a high percentage of glycerin ). Provides excellent heat stability. Can be used alone or in combination with APIFIL CG. O/W emulsifier for creams. Able to emulsify difficult-to-emulsify materials like sunscreens, depilatories, neutralizers or hair relaxers Wide ph compatibility. Can use low-energy/one-pot manufacturing process. Adapted for mass-market formulations. O/W emulsifier for lotions, sprayable fluids and soft creams. Intended for the formulation of inorganic powders (sunscreens, pigments), hydro-alcoholic products, sprayable deodorants, anti-perspirants. Can use low-energy/one-pot manufacturing process. Adapted for mass-market formulations. W/O, PEG-free emulsifier to be used alone (creams) or in combination with PLuROL OLEIQuE or PLuROL ISOStEARIQuE (lotions). Compatible with inorganic powders. Provides natural waterresistance. Allows the formulation of cold or hot-processed emulsions. Consistency agents recommended for wider oil compatibility. Protects hydrolipidic film for dry/sensitive skin or baby products. O/W, PEG-free emulsifier for creams and lotions. Ideal for all products. dry and powdery afterfeel. Recommended for green lines, sensitive care and baby lines. 8
functional emulsifiers NAME FORM INCI VALIdAtEd SEDEFOS 75 PELLETS CG PELLEtS triceteareth-4 Phosphate (and) Glycol Stearate (and) PEG-2 Stearate TEFOSE HC PELLEtS Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 TEFOSE 1500 CG BLOCK PEG-6 Stearate (and) PEG-32 Stearate TEFOSE 2000 CG BLOCK PEG-6 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Steareth-20 TEFOSE 2561 CG BLOCK PEG-6 Stearate (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Steareth-20 LABRAFIL LINE, PLUROL OLEIQUE, PLUROL ISOSTEARIQUE microemulsion technology L.A.S. LIQuId PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides PLUROL DIISOSTEARIQUE CG LIQuId Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate PLUROL ISOSTEARIQUE LIQuId Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate PLUROL OLEIQUE CG LIQuId Polyglyceryl-6 dioleate TRANSCUTOL CG LIQuId Ethoxydiglycol 9
HAIR CARE MAKE UP SKIN CARE SUN CARE TOILETRIES PROPERtIES APPLICAtIONS O/W emulsifier. Polyvalent anionic base for emulsions. Can be used for fluid to viscous textures. Fine and homogeneous dispersions. Excellent creaminess and very easy to spread. Recommended for use in sun care products. O/W emulsifier dedicated to hair care products. Adapted for various types of formulations such as creams, balms, waxes or lotions. Provides bright and glossy creams. Can be formulated over a wide range of ph. Recommended for the design of conditioners, hair relaxers, styling and coloring products. O/W emulsifier. Polyvalent base for creams. Can use low-energy/one-pot manufacturing process. Adapted for mass-market formulations. O/W emulsifier. Polyvalent base for fluid creams, lotions and sprayable emulsions (Phase Inversion temperature technology). Can use low energy/one-pot manufacturing process. Adapted for mass-market formulations. O/W emulsifier. Polyvalent base for lotions and soft creams. Wide ph compatibility. Can use lowenergy/one-pot manufacturing process. Adapted for mass-market formulations. Co-emulsifiers. Microemulsions are an innovative galenic form, offering transparency and remarkable fluidity. They present many advantages over traditional emulsions: higher solubilizing power, capacity to boost the efficiency of cosmetic active ingredients and strong technological interest in manufacturing methods (spontaneous formation and thermodynamic stability). Primary surfactant for microemulsions. Cosurfactant for microemulsions. Generally recommended for higher content in oil phase. Particularly effective when used in combination with L.A.S. Cosurfactant for microemulsions. Generally recommended for higher content in aqueous phase. Particularly effective when used in combination with L.A.S. Cosurfactant for microemulsions. Generally recommended for higher content in aqueous phase. Particularly effective when used in combination with L.A.S. Cosurfactant for microemulsions. Allows the formulation of anhydrous microemulsions when used in combination with L.A.S. Some limitations may apply in certain countries. 10
texturizing specialties NAME FORM INCI VALIdAtEd LIPOCIRE A PELLEtS C10-C18 triglycerides COMPRITOL 888 CG AtOMIZEd POWdER or PELLEtS Glyceryl Behenate HYDRACIRE S BLOCK Acacia decurrens/jojoba/sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters solubilizers and dispersers TRANSCUTOL CG LIQuId Ethoxydiglycol COCOATE BG LIQuId Butylene Glycol Cocoate sensorial emollients ISOSTEARYL ISOSTEARATE LIQuId Isostearyl Isostearate LABRAFAC CC LIQuId Caprylic/Capric triglyceride DPPG CG LIQuId Propylene Glycol dipelargonate MOD LIQuId Octyldodecyl Myristate 11
HAIR CARE MAKE UP SKIN CARE SUN CARE TOILETRIES PROPERtIES APPLICAtIONS LIPOCIRE A improves the feel on skin or lips. Adapted for lipsticks, cosmetic pencils and emulsions. LIPOCIRE A improves spreadability and heat stability. two other grades are also available: LIPOCIRE CM and dm, with different melting points. thickener for oils. Results in 100% lipidic, gelled forms with superior heat stability. Particularly effective in anhydrous products to formulate actives which are unstable in aqueous media. Stabilizes W/O and O/W emulsions. the atomized version is a perfect compacting agent for make-up powders, which does not modify pigment coloration. HYdRACIRE S is a 100% vegetal active texture agent based on a hydrophilized complex of Jojoba, Mimosa and Sunflower waxes. It improves sensorial properties and stability of O/W or W/O emulsions. It brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin (proven in vivo). Makeup innovation, Hydracire S is particularly interesting for its capacity to introduce water to traditionally anhydrous formulation. Superior solubilizer and efficacy booster for cosmetic formulations. Applications in self tanning products, antiperspirants, antimicrobial soaps, nail polish removers, fragrances, conditioners, hair dyes, products for acne prone skin Some limitations may apply in certain countries. transparent pigment wetter and disperser for organic and mineral sun filters. Provides a dry and soft touch. Brings a powerful SPF boosting effect to sunscreen formulations by enhancing pigment performance. Ideal ester for make-up, make-up removal and suncare applications. Fluid emollient for oils. Provides a rich feel and improves spreading on the skin. Appropriate for use in lipsticks. Binding agent for make-up powders. does not modify pigment coloration. Provides superfatting properties to compensate for the drying effect of powders. universal emollient for oils and emulsions. Improves the feel and spreadability on the skin. Crystal-clear grade. Fluid emollient for oils and emulsions. Provides a dry feel and improves spreadability on the skin. Can be used in hydro-alcoholic preparations in aerosol or pump form. Fluid emollient for oils and emulsions. Provides a rich feel. Improves the spreadability on the skin. Non comedogenic. 12
Worldwide Locations Regional Affiliates Canada Gattefossé Canada, Inc. 170 Attwell Drive, Suite 580 Toronto, Ontario M9W 5Z5 Tel. +1 416 243 5019 Fax +1 416 243 8628 China Gattefossé China Trading Co., Ltd Room 302, Building N 6, Lane 289 Bisheng Road, Zhangjiang Hi-Tech Park 201204 Shanghai, P.R. China Tel. +86 215 895 8010-601 Fax +86 215 895 8015 France Gattefossé France 5 rue Montesquieu F-92018 nanterre Cedex Tel. +33 1 41 47 19 00 Fax +33 1 41 47 19 29 Germany Gattefossé (Deutschland) GmbH Rheincenter, Hauptstrasse 435 D-79576 Weil am Rhein Tel. +49 7621 91 54 64 0 Fax +49 7621 79 22 93 India Gattefossé India Pvt Ltd. Ground floor, Bombay College of Pharmacy C.S.T. Road, Kalina Santacruz (East) Mumbai - 4000 098 Tel. +91 22 2665 60 31/32/33 Fax +91 22 2665 60 33 Italy Gattefossé Italia s.r.l. Via Durando, 38 I-20158 Milano Tel. +39 02 39314073 Fax +39 02 66200440 Spain Gattefossé España, s.a. Av. Diagonal 460 6 A E-08006 Barcelona Tel. +349 3 416 05 20 Fax +349 3 415 35 46 Gattefossé España, s.a. C/Padilla, 73, 1 B E-28006 Madrid Tel. +349 1 402 13 11/16 12 Fax +349 1 402 00 82 Switzerland Gattefossé AG Haldenstrasse 11 CH-6006 Luzern Tel. +41 41 418 40 44 Fax +41 41 418 40 59 United Kingdom Gattefossé (UK) Limited Arc House, Terrace Road South Binfield, Bracknell, Berkshire RG42 4PZ Tel. +44 1344 861 800 Fax +44 1344 451 400 U.S.A. Gattefossé Corporation Plaza I, 115 West Century Road Suite 340, paramus 07652 New Jersey Tel. +1 201 265 4800 Fax +1 201 265 4853 PERSONAL CARE textures-gb-1d5-8ab (2000Gt) Corporate Headquarters Gattefossé: 36 chemin de Genas - BP 603 - F-69804 Saint-Priest Cedex - France Tel +33 4 72 22 98 00 - Fax +33 4 78 90 45 67 infocos@gattefosse.com - www.gattefosse.com Gattefossé is an independent, multinational company headquartered in France which creates, manufactures and distributes specialty products used as ingredients by the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Present in 60 countries worldwide, Gattefossé enjoys a strong know-how and position in lipochemistry, biology and extraction from natural sources. Gattefossé offers the cosmetic industry a variety of high performance products classified as: Bases and Additives: emulsifiers, coemulsifiers, emollients, dispersers, solubilizers, thickeners traditional plant extracts substantiated active ingredients from vegetable, mineral and marine origins.