Dr. Su-Jeong Hwang Shin, Associate Professor Office: HS 201 C Email: su.hwang @ ttu.edu Website: www.myweb.ttu.edu/shwang Agricultural / chemical (raw material suppliers) Advertising Publications Merchandising Trade associations Selling Agents Fiber/ Yarn manufactures Knitting / Weaving mills Converters (Finished fabrics) Finishers Apparel Manufactures Contractors Wholesale Jobbers Retailers Consumers 1
The major steps in manufacturing a garment (Tate, p. 39) Concept phase Develop storyboards and pre-selling concepts Sampling (sample patternmaking) Textile development and selection Line merchandising and costing Marketing and sales 2
(Tate, Chapter 2) Design apparel products to sell. Develop a line. Designer have interaction with the sales and production departments of manufacturing plant. (Design+ Production+ Sale) Must understand the production procedures. Know about compatibility with the price range (fabric price), technical limits of the production (sewing ability). Should recognize potential problems. Should test fabric reaction, washing/dry cleaning, etc. 3
Sales meetings to explain to sales people the styling of a line and the specific information to sell the merchandise to buyers. Should have contract with retailers. Should have other outside sources to discuss fashion trends and consumer reaction. Visit stores to see figures. Designer is promoted as a personality and makes a fashion shows or in retail stores. Researching colors and fabrics Investigate color trends and set color story. Review textile lines. (Fabric selection) Usually one type of fabric (e.g. denim) Design fabric (e.g. knit fabric) A successful style Runs(=continues) one season to next season. Tract styles (hot items) And, re-fabricate (= put the good body into another fabric) 4
Creating styles for the line Work within the narrow constraints of the category. E.g. a junior, moderate dress- rayon print dress. Overspecialization is danger (if goes out of fashion). Diversify the product line is necessary! Think about the customer (who will buy)!!! Must understand what the customers want!!! Direct sale to customers / Multi-channel retailing Catalog sales/ home shopping/networks/ online catalogs E-commerce: direct market to consumers E-retailers: Spiegel group, Eddie Bauer, JC penny, the Gap. Creating styles for the line Constantly shop stores/retail outlets that distribute their line to evaluate how their styles are selling. Knock-off good sellers Aesthetic Appeal Attractive design to the target customer. Hand (feel) of the fabric. Hanger appeal in retail store. Computer simulation. 5
Creating styles for the line Price Similar price points in a store. Market competitors. Timing Fit Care & Durability Developing a Line Draw/ create a working sketch using a computer program and give it to pattern makers. The silhouette (shape of the garment) is important to tell how much fullness in a skirt, sleeves, or bodice. Copies of working sketch. Identify the sample pattern and the cost sheet. Draping muslin or the final fabric/ or Working on the flat (flat patternmaking) 6
Developing a Line Good design: the Right fabric, cut, & trimming, the Right price, and the Right margin of profit!!! Creating a line = a Team effort!!! A designer must cooperate with the sales force, the production department and merchandisers. Assistant designer (first patternmaker) Sample and Dupe (=Duplicate) cutter Sample maker Sketcher (computer flats & storyboards) Designer Fit models Miscellaneous duties: Shopping for findings, filling out cost and spec sheets, receipts, etc. 7
Merchandising the line After all samples, merchandised to weed out (modified or discarded) potentially unsuccessful styles. The owner, chief operating officer (COO), sales manager, and production staff are asked to participate in weeding the line. High-priced lines contain more styles for exclusiveness and broad selection. Pattern Development Pattern making, grading, and marker. Designer may involve the pattern development. Advise the production to make the garment fit better, to make it easier to produce, minimize fabric yardage in a garment. Pre-production Basic pattern (showroom model) Stock pattern size (missy 8-10 junior 7-9) Grade for every size (e.g. missy 2-16) 8
Distribution The showroom, contracting buyers to review. Trade shows for selling garments e.g. Man s Apparel Guild in California (MAGIC) in LA Fashion show and Trunk Show The designer begins a new season by presenting/explaining the line, the styling, and theme at a sales meeting. Initial order may not be large but, Check (=sell well) are reordered in greater quantity. Good styling means profits for both manufacturers and retailers. Custom design Usually small manufacturing firm. The custom designer should have knowledge of fitting and patternmaking to have flexibility in creating design. Have direct contract with customers. 9
Developing a Taste level A person develops a taste level by constant exposure to better merchandise in stores, in publications, and on the streets. Good taste is the ability to recognize styles that will appeal to a specific segment of the market. Specializing without researching market is risk! Successful designers create a product for a specific customer and view the customer objectively. DO NOT impose personal design on their product!! Topic: Inspired to Design (Brannon, Ch. 2) Bring your Journal Sketchbook! 10