I S E L U X The clear solution for luxurious lather
UNIQUE OPTION, EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES Cleansing products, whether face washes, shampoos or bath and shower gels, that offer an elegant, rich lather enhance consumer appeal and command a premium. But achieving this in mild, clear, natural-looking formulations is a challenge. Until now. The latest technological breakthrough in surfactant chemistry delivers this valuable combination of luxury and clarity and much more. Introducing Iselux INCI name: Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (SLMI) Innospec has revolutionized the personal care market with Iselux isethionate esters. These unique, mild, sulfatefree surfactants enable the creation of crystal clear liquid personal care products that are exceptionally luxurious and gentle on the skin.
Creative chemistry: from SCI to SLMI Iselux has been developed using the combined technical expertise of Innospec and Huntsman. They found that a minor modification to the structure of sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) results in a unique combination of beneficial properties. The consequences of this small step are, in fact, dramatic. Formulating made easy When using Iselux flakes: Add sufficient level of chelating agent such as Natrlquest E30 or EDTA to water and mix. Typical usage levels of chelating agent are 0.3% active chelating agent for every 10% active Iselux. Usage levels of chelating agents can be reduced or eliminated by using co-surfactants such as sodium alkylamphoacetate or disodium alkylamphodiacetate. Add Iselux, begin heating to 50-60 C and continue to sodium cocoyl liset sethio nate mix until all of the Iselux is dissolved. When using Iselux liquids: Add Iselux into the aqueous phase and mix until uniform. sodium lauro yl methyl isethionate Delivering all the desirable features of SCI, plus good water solubility, broad ph and hydrolytic stability, Iselux heralds the next generation of surfactants. The Iselux difference As a primary or secondary surfactant, Iselux produces a dense, rich, long-lasting lather and an elegant, silky, Then for either form: Add remaining materials (co-surfactants, polymers, conditioning agents etc) and heat if required. Allow to cool if heat has been used. Adjust to desired ph. When using amphoteric co-surfactants optimum clarity is reached at ph 5.0-6.0. If desired, electrolytes such as sodium chloride can be added to increase viscosity. smooth after-feel in: Shampoos, shower gels and body scrubs Hand and facial cleansers plus shaving preparations Luxury foam baths and body washes Baby cleansing products Beauty bars Features Excellent water solubility Dense, creamy, long-lasting lather, elegant after-feel Ultra mild surfactant Sulfate-, 1,4-Dioxane-, and Nitrosamine-free Readily biodegradable, derived from natural/renewable feedstocks Formulates like an ether sulfate, broad ph stability Structured systems achievable Benefits Ideal for clear systems Creates luxurious bath and shower experience Ideal for sensitive skin Safe at all usage levels Environmentally-friendly Easy and flexible formulating Dramatic formulation flexibility for enhanced creativity and exciting visual effects
Positive processing The secondary ester structure of Iselux means it is more hydrolytically stable than many common ester surfactants. This makes it easy to formulate and cost-effective. Clearly luxurious With Iselux, it is easy to produce a dense, creamy lather from completely clear, transparent formulations. To achieve optimum clarity, adding a chelating agent or cosurfactant, such as alkylamphoacetates, is recommended. Iselux offers improved solubility in nwater. Picture shows solubility in 10% aqueous solutions SLMI SCI Iselux offers excellent stability over a broad ph range and can be incorporated into formulations ranging from ph 4.5-8.5. It remains stable at both high and low temperature Luscious lather conditions too. Iselux has an excellent foaming profile. The lather produced, with its dense bubbles, is comparable to SCI while its flash foam and foam stability is equivalent to sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES). Elegant after-feel Importantly, Iselux technology ensures outstanding rinseability. Cleansing product formulations wash away easily, reducing tack on drying and leaving the skin feeling smooth. Iselux solutions thicken easily with electrolytes such as sodium chloride when used in combination with co-surfactants such as cocoamidopropyl betaine and sodium lauroamphoacetate. Skin-kind Free from sulfates, Iselux is gentle on the skin, providing mild yet thorough cleansing. Compared to other common surfactants, such as SLS or SLES, it is less likely to induce skin irritation. CAPB Cocamidopropyl Betaine SLAA Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
HIGH PERFORMANCE SULFATE-FREE SOLUTIONS With Iselux, you can create high performance sulfate-free formulations, without the prohibitive cost. Iselux is designed to perform exceptionally as a primary surfactant and eliminates the need for masking malodors, costly viscosity modifiers, added conditioning agents, irritation mitigants or multiple co-surfactants. Added functionality, not cost Less complex systems using fewer ingredients positively impact formulation development, manufacturing, raw materials costs and handling, and product stability. A modest increase in surfactant cost can be easily offset by the added benefits Iselux can yield. Furthermore, our research has shown that by using Iselux as the primary surfactant, a total surfactant package cost of less than 0.75 per kg can be achieved with the equivalent functionality of a sulfate-based alternative. MLS - Market leading shampoo A - 8% Iselux, 2% CAPB (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) B - 5% Iselux, 2% CAPB C - 5% Iselux, 2% CAPB, 2% Sodium Lauroyl Amphoacetate D- 4% Iselux, 2% CAPB, 4% Sodium Cocoyl Amphoacetate Label friendly As demonstrated above, reduced levels of Iselux are required to achieve the desired performance, enabling manufacturers to make reduced chemical claims and enhance their environmental credentials. Iselux is also readily biodegradable. WINNING FORMULATIONS Iselux bath & shower gelée AC156 Sulfate-free and amide-free formula. This formulation features Iselux LQ-CLR which provides a dense creamy lather and luxurious after-feel while the Condicare PQ7 offers slip and contributes an improved rheology to the product. INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) %w/w A Aqua q.s to 100 Sodium Chloride 0.50 B Polyquaternium-7 Condicare PQ7 (Innospec) 1.00 Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Iselux LQ-CLR (Innospec) 30.00 Citric Acid (50% soln) q.s. to ph 5.5-6.0 C Preservatives, Dyes, Parfum q.s D Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35% soln) 20.00 Preparation procedure 1 2 3 4 Add phase B sequentially to phase A. Adjust ph of system to 5.5-6.0 with 50% citric acid solution as needed. Add compatible preservative, perfume and dyes. With smooth agitation, slowly blend in D, (viscosity will increase significantly with betaine addition). Properties Appearance : Clear viscous liquid Viscosity* : 18,000-25,000 cps * Brookfield DV-E @ 5rpm, 25 o C, #5 spindle (RVT) Note: Incremental additions of either sodium chloride or Cocamidopropyl Betaine can be used to further increase viscosity if desired.
STRUCTURED LIQUID SURFACTANT SYSTEMS, SIMPLY A unique benefit of Iselux surfactants is their ability to form structured liquid systems. Why structured liquids? Making the incompatible compatible When used in combination with selected co-surfactants, Iselux promotes the formation of a liquid crystalline structure capable of suspending and delivering active ingredients or other beneficial components such as oils and conditioning agents. Using structured liquid technology, formulators can incorporate high levels of otherwise incompatible ingredients into their formulas for delivery via wash off applications. The outstanding lathering properties of Iselux are not compromised by these ingredients. This patent-pending technology enables formulators to easily prepare rich, lathering personal cleansing products that provide tangible benefits to the skin or hair. Special effects The unique rheology of structured liquids allows you to create exciting visual effects such as layering different coloured phases to form stripes, or suspending beads, glitter or other solid particles. What are structured liquids? A structured liquid is a surfactant system in a unique physical state. Why Iselux? Existing technologies use sodium laureth sulfate or Using the phase diagram technique, optimum surfactant combinations are identified to promote the formation of this physical state. Once in the structured state, the resulting products have unique rheological properties capable of suspending high levels of particulates and active ingredients otherwise incompatible in standard surfactant-based formulations. Examples of particulates include ingredients such sodium trideceth sulfate as the primary surfactants to form structured liquid systems. These ingredients have some distinct drawbacks. The table below highlights just some of the benefits of using Iselux versus sodium trideceth sulfate. as natural oils, petrolatum, silicones, emollient esters, active ingredients and conditioning agents. Iselux Sodium trideceth sulfate Sulfate-free Yes No When properly formulated, structured liquid systems are extremely stable and durable. Upon application (water dilution), these formulas rapidly transition to 1,4 Dioxane-free Yes No a more traditional micellar physical state generating a dense, creamy lather and releasing the particulates to deposit on the hair or skin. Ethylene oxide-free Biodegradability Yes Readily No Inherently While the science of identifying optimum ingredient ratios to promote the formation of the ideal structured state is complex, the actual process to prepare the formulated products is fairly easy and does not require any special processing equipment. Hydrophobe source Odor Natural Sweet lauric Petrochemical Strong pungent Foam type Luxurious lather Lacy bubbles Innospec has spent considerable time identifying the optimum phase profile for Iselux and provides easy-to-use optimized systems. We offer support to help you Mildness Mild as is Mildness must be created develop formulas which best fit your application and performance goals.
Sulfate-free body wash AC136b This mild, sulfate-free cleanser features Iselux LQ-CLR-SB and Pureact WS Conc. to produce a dense, creamy lather upon application. The Activsoft C-17 imparts a soft, elegant feel to the skin and also helps improve the foam quality. The Activsoft S and the Aminol CM Flakes thicken this formulation and help stabilize the foam. The Finsolv TN acts as a mild solublizing agent to gently remove soils from the skin as well as to provide conditioning. INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) %w/w A B C D E F Aqua q.s to 100 Sodium Chloride 4.00 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Activsoft C-17 (Innospec) 0.20 Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate 7.50 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS Conc. (Innospec) 7.50 Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum Activsoft S (Innospec) 0.50 Glycerin 1.00 G H I J Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Iselux LQ-CLR-SB (Innospec) 30.00 Cocamide MEA Aminol CM Flakes (Innospec) 3.50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.00 Canola Oil 10.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Finsolv TN (Innospec) 2.00 K Preservative, Dye(s), Parfum q.s. L Citric Acid (50% aqueous solution) q.s. to ph 5.0-5.6 Preparation procedure 1 2 Dissolve sodium chloride in deionized water. With smooth mechanical agitation, slowly blend Activsoft C-17 in water system. Mix until completely dispersed and uniform. 3 4 5 Slowly blend D into system. Mix until uniform. Warm system to 40-45ºC with smooth mechanical agitation. Slowly blend Pureact WS Conc. into heated system and mix until completely dissolved. In a separate mixing vessel, combine Activsoft S and glycerin. Mix into a soft slurry that is completely uniform. Slowly blend this pre-mix slurry into main system and mix until uniform. 6 7 8 9 Slowly blend Iselux LQ-CLR-SB into system. Mix until uniform. Slowly blend Aminol CM Flakes into system. Mix until uniform. Remove heat. Slowly blend I into system. Mix until uniform. In a separate mixing vessel, combine canola oil and Finsolv TN. Mix until uniform and blend into main system with smooth agitation. 10 11 Add compatible perfume, dye(s) and preservative. Adjust ph of system to 5.0-5.6 with citric acid solution (50% aqueous.) as required. The system should thicken noticeably with the ph adjustment. Mix for at least 30 minutes to reach final consistency.
Iselux complements Innospec s portfolio of mild surfactants, emollients, conditioning agents and biodegradable chelants. Innospec Active Chemicals provides high quality speciality chemicals which improve processes and finished product formulations. We blend technical and scientific expertise with a creative partnership approach to develop innovative solutions to meet the specific needs of the personal care industry. V2 : 03 2011 For inspiration, ideas or further information, please contact us. Technology invented by Innospec Active Chemicals Americas Tel: +1 888 633 8023 Email: americas-ac@innospecinc.com denotes that Natrlquest is a registered trade mark in the UK, the European Union and the USA in the name of Innospec Ltd denotes that Finsolv is a registered trade mark in the USA in the name of Innospec Active Chemicals denotes that Iselux is a registered trade mark in the UK in the name of Innospec Ltd denotes that Aminol is a registered trade mark in the USA in the name of Innospec Active Chemicals Europe, Middle East and Africa Tel: +44 (0)151 348 5754 Email: emea-ac@innospecinc.com Asia-Pacific Tel: +65 6336 6286 Email: aspac-ac@innospecinc.com Printed on paper from well-managed forests and other controlled sources The facts stated and the recommendations made are based on our own research and/or the research of others, and are believed to be accurate. No guarantee of their accuracy is made, however, and unless otherwise expressly provided by law or in written contract, the materials are sold without warranties, expressed or implied, in particular without guarantee as to suitability for particular purpose. Innospec assumes no responsibility for injury or damage to users or third parties. Recipient agrees to assume all risk and liability whether used singly or in combination with other materials. www.innospecinc.com www.iselux.com