AN INTRODUCTION TO HENNA BODY ART
2 Ancient Art: An Introduction to Henna Copyright 2012 by Henna Art FCE Incorporated. All rights reserved. Published by Henna Art FCE INC. Edmonton, Alberta All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any manner without written permission. You may not sell, offer for sale, exchange or otherwise transfer this publication. This publication is for the use of information. Individuals may freely use henna patterns as an inspiration for their own hand-drawn henna work.
3 T H I S B O O K I S T H E R E S U L T O F T H E T A L E N T S A N D E F F O R T S O F M A N Y P E O P L E, A N D S E V E R A L Y E A R S O F H A R D W O R K. I W O U L D L I K E T O T H A N K A L L O F T H E A R T I S T S W H O G E N E R O U S L Y G A V E T H E I R T I M E A N D E X P E R T I S E, S H A R I N G R E C I P E S A N D T E C H N I Q U E S. I W O U L D A L S O L I K E T O T H A N K A L L O F O U R C L I E N T S, M O D E L S A N D F R I E N D S W H O H A V E S U P P O R T E D U S I N O U R E N D E A V O R S. T H E I D E A O F H E N N A A R T W A S B O R N M A R C H 2 0 0 7, W H E N I W A S A S K E D F O R H E L P F O R A H E N N A P A R T Y. A S P E C I A L T H A N K S T O Y A S M I N E A P P A W H O I N V I T E D M E T O T H I S E V E N T, W H E R E I R E A L I Z E D T H E L A C K O F E D U C A T I O N A B O U T H E N N A B O D Y A R T A N D T H E G R E A T I N T E R E S T F R O M I N D I V I D U A L S. M Y I N D I V I D U A L S U C C E S S A T T H E H E N N A P A R T Y E N C O U R A G E D M E T O C R E A T E A C O M P A N Y D E V O T E D T O T H E A N C I E N T A R T O F H E N N A. A F T E R M A N Y M O N T H S O F R E S E A R C H, H E N N A A R T W A S C R E A T E D M A Y 2 0 0 8, I N T H E U N I T E D S T A T E S. T H E C O M P A N Y O P E R A T E D W I T H O N E P E R S O N O N L Y F O R O N E Y E A R B E F O R E O U R T E A M B E G A N T O G R O W. A V E R Y S P E C I A L T H A N K S T O M Y L O V I N G A N D C O M M I T T E D H U S B A N D. H E N N A A R T C O U L D N O T H A V E F L O U R I S H E D W I T H O U T H I S H E L P A N D S U P P O R T.
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5 T H I S B O O K I S I N T E N D E D T O G I V E R E A D E R S A S I M P L E I N T R O D U C T I O N T O T H E A R T O F H E N N A. T H E R E I S M U C H T O K N O W A B O U T T H E A N C I E N T A R T O F H E N N A, A N D T H I S B O O K A T T E M P T S T O A N S W E R T H E Q U E S T I O N S T H A T A R E O F T E N A S K E D : C A N I D O I T? H O W? W H E R E C A N I H A V E I T D O N E? I S I T R E A L L Y G O O D F O R M E? W H E R E D O E S I T C O M E F R O M? W H A T I S H E N N A A L L A B O U T? H O W D O I L E A R N T O D O I T M Y S E L F? W H A T I S H E N N A U S E D F O R? B E C A U S E O F T H E R E C E N T B O O M I N T H E P O P U L A R I T Y O F H E N N A B O D Y A R T, A N D T H E F R E Q U E N T U S E O F T E C H N O L O G Y, T H E R E A R E M A N Y T H I N G S A B O U T H E N N A B O D Y A R T T H A T H A V E B E C O M E L O S T I N T R A N S L A T I O N. T H I S B O O K S T R I V E S T O G I V E T H E R E A D E R T R I E D, T E S T E D A N D T R U E I N F O R M A T I O N A B O U T H E N N A B O D Y A R T. O N C E T H E K N O W L E D G E I S P A S S E D O N, W E H O P E T H E R E A D E R W I L L C O M M I T T O P R A C T I C I N G T H E A R T O F H E N N A I N I T S N A T U R A L E S S E N C E. T H E P R A C T I C E O F H E N N A H A S S U R V I V E D F O R T H O U S A N D S O F Y E A R S. I T I S O U R H O P E T H A T T H I S B O O K M A Y P L A Y A S M A L L P A R T I N T H E T I M E L E S S H I S T O R Y O F H E N N A.
6 H E N N A, I S T H E E N G L I S H T E R M D E R I V E D F R O M A R A B I C F O R A S M A L L F L O W E R I N G S H R U B. T H E B O TA N I C A L T E R M F O R H E N N A I S L A W S O N I A I N E R M I S. T H E H E N N A P L A N T I S B E S T K N O W N T O U S A S A N AT U R A L P R O D U C T U S E D T O D Y E T H E H A I R A N D B O D Y. H E N N A PA I N T I N G I S A N A N C I E N T C O S M E T I C A R T, T H AT H A S R O O T S B A C K T O A N C I E N T E G Y P T. L E A V E S O F T H E H E N N A P L A N T A R E D R I E D A N D C R U S H E D I N T O A G R E E N P O W D E R, M I X E D W I T H V A R I O U S L I Q U I D S T O F O R M A PA S T E, A N D A P P L I E D T O T H E B O D Y. T H E A P P L I C AT I O N O N T H E B O D Y I S D O N E I N E L A B O R AT E PAT T E R N S A N D D E S I G N S, T R A D I T I O N A L LY O N T H E H A N D S A N D F E E T. T H E R E S U LT I S A T E M P O R A R Y S TA I N, O F T E N B R O W N I S H - R E D I N C O L O R, W H I C H W I L L L A S T F R O M T H R E E D AY S T O T H R E E W E E K S. T H E H E N N A P L A N T I S A L S O U S E D T O D Y E H A I R, H I D E, A N D N A I L S, W H I L E A L S O P R O V I D I N G M E D I C I N A L U S E S.
7 The exact origin of the henna plant is not determined. The practice is so ancient, with mythological origins in so many cultures, it is difficult to determine where it actually began. The earliest evidence of the cosmetic use of henna is from ancient Egypt. It was common among Egyptians to dye their fingernails with the henna plant. Traces of henna have also been found on Egyptian mummies, dating approximately five thousand years old. Traditional henna designs vary in style depending on the region they come from, and can be found in a local culture s fabrics, carpets, and carvings. It is recognized in many countries, and is well deserving of its reputation and timeless beauty. Henna is also believed to be a popular cosmetic among the Hebrews. It is quoted in the Song of Solomon 1:14: While the king was at his table, my perfume spread its fragrance. My beloved to me is to me a cluster of henna blossoms from the vineyards of En Gedi. Muslims have used henna for cosmetic and medicinal purposes for centuries. It is believed that the strong presence of Islamic traditions in the Middle East and northern Africa helped facilitate the spread of henna painting all the way to Morocco.
8 INTERESTING FACT The word for henna in Greek is kypros. For a long period of time it was believed that Cyprus acquired its name from the shrub kypros (lawsonia alba). The plant which is native to North Africa, Arabia, Persia and India has never been found in Cyprus in large numbers. Today, one can hardly find a shrub of kypros which makes it odd that a relatively large island with a rich history and civilization dating back thousands of years obtained its name from a non-native shrub.
9 H E N N A, H A S B E E N U S E D T H R O U G H T H E C E N T U R I E S F O R B O D Y A R T, H A I R D Y E I N G, A S W E L L A S I T S M E D I C I N A L P R O P E R T I E S.
10 The application of henna on the body started as an answer to the need of cooling in the desert. The desert people of Rajasthan, Punjab, and Gujarat became aware of its cooling properties and dipped their hands and feet in a paste made from henna leaves. Even when the paste was scraped off, they noticed that as long as the color remained visible, their body temperatures stayed low. Eventually, some women grew tired of bright red palms and found that one large central dot in the palm of the hand had the same cooling effect. Using twigs and sticks, women started to apply smaller dots around the central dot which eventually gave way to the idea of creating artistic designs.
11 Many people in the west know of henna because it is often used to dye hair and skin. However, henna has been used for thousands of years for its medicinal properties and other functions. One of the primary functions of henna is as a coolant. When applied to the body, it helps lower the body temperatures as well as use as sunscreen. It is believed that Queen Cleopatra went to extreme lengths to protect and enhance her beauty with henna. She would comb a henna rinse through her long black hair, and dip her hands and feet in henna tea to protect herself from the hot Egyptian sun. Because of the cooling effect it has on the skin, a ball of henna paste would be placed in the palm of a fevered child in order to bring the body temperature down Used as an antiseptic and as an astringent, it is has been applied to bruises and sprains, as well as boils, burns and open wounds. Before the intervention of modern science and medicine, the henna plant was used to treat ringworm, headaches, sweaty hands, burning feet, and athlete s foot, jaundice, sore throat, and stomach aches.
Henna is believed to condition and revitalize the hair. Prior to chemical hair dyes, it was one of the few products available to cover gray hairs. When used on hair, it is said to kill head lice, prevent hair loss, and create volume in the hair. The henna paste is also applied to the fingertips and nails for cosmetic and conditioning purposes. Not only did it moisturize the cuticles, it also stained the finger tips and nails, helping achieve the look of nail polish thousands of years ago. 12
13 Aside from its cosmetic and medicinal functions, henna has been used to dye leather and cloth, hooves and manes of horses, and cow and cattle hides. One theory concerning the origins of henna in India links the arrival of henna with the Persian horses in the year 712. The dying property of henna allowed individuals to mark their animals to show ownership. The paste was often used by farmers to mark their cows with their family symbol. It has also been used as a natural fibre dye to stain a mocha color on fabric.
14 A S A N A N C I E N T F O R M O F A R T, T H E R E A R E M A N Y H I S T O R I C A L T R A D I T I O N S T H AT A R E A S S O C I AT E D W I T H H E N N A.
Even though there are a variety of cultures that practice the art of henna, its primary use remains the same to decorate the palms and feet of the bride (and sometimes groom). In South Asian weddings, the Henna/Mehndi Night is an important pre-wedding function, attended by all the female relations and friends of the bride. In many cultures, the groom s family sends the henna (specially prepared and beautifully wrapped) to the bride before the wedding. It is believed that the deeper the colour of the henna on the bride s hands, the stronger the love between the husband and wife. Some believe that a dark colour means that the bride will be much loved by her mother-in-law. Bridal henna motifs include symbols of love, fertility, loyalty, prosperity, and good luck. These symbols vary from region, but are usually peacocks, flowers, paisleys and leaves. Oftentimes, romantic brides embed their husband s initials in an intricate design, which he has to find on the wedding night. 15
The henna party is a way for women to come together and enjoy each other s company. It is believed that having henna parties after the birth of a child, ensured the mother does not fall into post-partum depression. With the company of her friends and community, the mother has the opportunity to relax and recover from child-birth. The application of henna forces her to rest while friends and family pamper her and take care of chores until she can recover fully. Modern day henna gatherings allow groups of friends to enjoy each other s company while having the opportunity to relax. The power of henna allows it to not only be a beautiful art form, but a magical one as well. 16
Henna reminds us of the cycles of life it is created, then it fades away. 17 There is an interesting connection between the meaning of henna and the women who make it and wear it. Women s bodies are deeply connected to the cycles of the earth, namely the moon, which orbits the earth every 28 days. Henna also has a cycle. It is applied and wears off in two weeks about the time of a woman s ovulation cycle. This is significant because it is during the ovulation cycle that the woman can metaphorically give birth to creation. This is perhaps the reason why the art of henna was so well understood by women. Henna has always been a retreat for women, a space where they could safely bond with one another and share secrets.
There is a certain charm and magic in henna body art. It has been applied historically for a special occasion or in celebration of an event, and has always been done with positive feelings, good wishes, good fortune, and happiness. The power of henna is known to bring luck, fortune, protection, and spiritual wealth. Henna is also thought to cast off the evil eye, guard against black magic and get rid of harmful or supernatural forces. Henna has also been used as an oracle. Sometimes a dot of henna will be put on the forehead to determine the fortune of a man or woman if it stains, it is thought to signal good luck. This is the reason why many traditional Indians will have a red dot on their forehead. 18 Women often practice henna painting and offer their designs to the sprits, gods and goddesses in an effort to please them and win their favors. Women would have henna parties to honor a particular spirit if she believed her sick child could be healed. Such practices can be dismissed as purely superstitious by a nonbeliever. However, the traditional use of henna is similar to prayer admitting to the presence of forces beyond our understanding.
19 Henna has only gained popularity in the past two decades. Today, henna is often used as a temporary tattoo for the body. Many men and women use henna body art to decorate themselves for special occasions. The modern use of henna has altered the traditional patterns, and combined them with new styles for a fresh and modern look. Whereas henna was mostly for women, now men are seen using henna often.
20 T H O U G H M E A N I N G S O F S P E C I F I C S I G N S A N D P A T T E R N S M A Y V A R Y F R O M C U L T U R E T O C U L T U R E O R E V E N F R O M P E R S O N T O P E R S O N, T H E U S E O F S Y M B O L S I S U N I V E R S A L. S Y M B O L S A R E T H E L A N G U A G E O F T H E U N C O N S C I O U S A N D O F T H E A N C I E N T S. S Y M B O L I S M O C C U R S O N M A N Y L E V E L S I N T H E P R A C T I C E O F H E N N A B O D Y A R T. T H E R E I S S Y M B O L I S M I N T H E A C T O F P A I N T I N G. T H E A R T I S T A N D T H E P E R S O N R E C E I V I N G T H E D E S I G N S H A R E A B O N D W I T H O N E A N O T H E R. T H E A C T O F H E N N A P A I N T I N G F O R C E S T H E T W O T O T O U C H, T A L K A N D B O N D T O G E T H E R O N P H Y S I C A L A N D S P I R I T U A L L E V E L S. T H E A C T O F H E N N A P A I N T I N G I S T H U S A S Y M B O L O F C E L E B R A T I O N A N D A V E S S E L F O R S P R E A D I N G P O S I T I V E E N E R G Y. T H E R E I S A L S O A M E T A P H O R I C A L S I G N I F I C A N C E O F T H E P L A N T I T S E L F. H E N N A R E M I N D S U S O F T H E C Y C L E O F L I F E. E A C H Y E A R T H E P L A N T B L O O M S, T H R I V E S A N D T H E N D I E S I T F L O U R I S H E S A N D T H E N G E T S H A R V E S T E D. S U C H I S L I F E W I T H A C E R T A I N B E G I N N I N G A N D D E F I N I T E E N D. T H E R E I S S Y M B O L I S M I N H E N N A D E S I G N S T H E M S E L V E S. W H I L E W E C A N N E V E R K N O W F O R C E R T A I N W H A T S I G N I F I C A N C E T H E S Y M B O L S I N H E N N A D E S I G N S H E L D F O R W O M E N O F T H E P A S T, W E C A N T A K E A G L I M P S E A T T H E T I M E L E S S N A T U R E O F T H E I R U N I V E R S A L M E A N I N G.
The paisley is a droplet-shaped vegetable motif of Persian and Indian origin, similar to half of the Yin Yang symbol. This motif was very popular to decorate royal regalia, crowns, court garments, as well as textiles, during the Safavid Dynasty of Persia from 1501-1736. It is believed that the paisley is representative of abundance in India. The symbol was used to communicate with neighbors that the crops are ready for harvest. 21
22 Flowers and leaves are often used in henna designs because they represent timeless beauty. In Indian henna patterns, the lotus flower is used often, as it means unattached beauty. The flowers and leaves also represent new life or birth. Flowers and leaves are the most reoccurring motif found in Indian and Arabic henna.
The peacock motif is of Indian origin, mostly used in non-muslim bridal designs. The peacock is indigenous to Asia and is the national bird of India. It symbolizes glory, immortality, royalty, and loyalty, and is often used in Indian bridal designs. It is also associated with the deity Lakshmi, who represents benevolence, patience, kindness, compassion and good luck. 23
24 The Mandala is also of Indian origin. The center is a dot which represents seed or sperm, meaning the beginning of life. The word mandala is a term for verse hymn, originating from the Rig Veda. The motif as a whole represents the universe with all the physical aspects around the center, holding both life and spirit inside the boundaries. The mandala is often drawn on the palm of the hands and is seen in many traditional Indian designs.
25 S I M P L E Q U E S T I O N S T H AT G E T A N S W E R E D.
How does henna work? Henna is applied as a wet paste. It takes about 20-30 minutes to for the henna paste fully dry indoors. Once the paste is dry it forms a crusty layer on top of the skin. This layer is left on the skin for at least another hour but should remain on the skin as long as possible, preferably overnight. The paste is then removed. The properties in the henna plant cause the paste to release the burnt orange/brown color onto the skin. As your skin naturally exfoliates, the henna fades away. Scientifically, henna has a dye molecule called lawsone. This molecule is small enough to penetrate a skin cell. Instead of spreading out, the molecules go straight down, staining the skin in the pattern as clear as the application. The skin cells closest to the henna paste will have the greatest dye saturation. It is important to leave the henna on the skin for as long as possible to ensure that the layers of the skin absorb the dye molecule. Why is henna temporary? Each day our bodies grow new layers of skin. As our bodies get rid of the dead layers of skin, the henna stain lightens. The layers of the skin that are dyed with the henna paste will eventually flake off naturally and as you exfoliate. This is the reason why henna tattoos are temporary, but require time to fade. It is a natural process that you have to allow your body to go through. Tattoos, on the other hand, have pigment placed beneath the dead layers of skin, into living tissues. That is why tattoos bleed and hurt, while henna does not. Why does the henna stain get darker? If you have ever cut a potato or apple in half and left it open, the flesh starts to get dark. This process is called oxidization. The henna stain also oxidizes within the first 2-3 days. Oxidization is also a natural process, but can be sped up by steaming or heating the skin. Just like the apple or potato gets darker the longer it is exposed to air, the henna design gets darker as it become exposed to air. The design will peak in color 36-48 hours after application, and then will begin to fade as the skin naturally exfoliates.
Does henna hurt? No. Henna is a cool paste that is squeezed from a plastic cone or applicator bottle, and is drawn on the skin. It dyes the outer layer of the skin and as the skin exfoliates naturally, the henna slowly disappears. How long does the henna design last? The duration of the henna depends on each individual s skin. Henna can last usually from 3 days to three weeks days depending on the color and skin. It depends on how quickly your skin tends to exfoliate, how often you wash the area of application, how long you leave the design on for, and what part of the body the design is on. The best place to put henna is on the hands and feet, as they have the most layers of skin, and will stain very dark. Next, the arms, shoulders and legs are recommended for application. Areas such as the back, stomach and neck will stain much lighter than the rest of the body. What color is henna? A natural henna tattoo is copper-orange to reddish-brown. A design will start orange and then darken within the first 24-48 hours. This is the only NATURAL colour to henna. Are there any side effects while using the henna? Henna is an ancient art that has been used for thousands of years. It is 100% natural and allergic reactions are very rare. If you have the slightest concern, be sure to research the ingredients in the paste. How long does it take to apply a design? How long it takes a person to apply a design is based on their level of expertise. A professional artist will be able to apply small to medium design in designs within 15-20 minutes. Some large design will take normally up to an hour. The time it takes depends on the details of the design and the speed of the artist. These times are approximate and will vary from session to session, and person to person.
How should I prepare the skin before application? It is important to moisturize well in advance. You can improve the efficiently of the henna stain if you are well moisturized before the application. However, remove the area to be painted of all oils and lotions. These often have wax and prevent the skin from receiving the henna stain well. Soft, well hydrated skim will take the color much better than skin that is dry or chapped. Should I shave the area that will receive the henna treatment? Shave the area you will receive the treatment if you would have normally shaved there, for example, the legs. Shaving the night before protects your skin from irritation. Should I exfoliate the skin prior to receiving henna? Exfoliating the skin the night before is helpful. It is like you are preparing the canvas for a painting. Is there anything I need to do before applying the henna? There are no additional steps you need to take apart from your day to day routine. The application of henna should be a treat and break, not a task. What should I do after the henna has dried? Once the henna is dry to the touch, you need to apply a mixture of sugar and lemon water. (1 part sugar, two parts lemon-juice). Saturate a cotton ball with this mixture and gently dab it on your skin. The sugar in the solution helps the henna stick to the skin longer and the acidity from the lemon juice helps bring out the henna dye. If you are keeping the paste on overnight, do the following: Wear dark clothes, use bed linens that you do not mind getting a stain on, wrap the area in tissue and plastic food wrap, or wear an old sock over the design.
Should I reapply the henna to achieve a darker color? A second application is not necessary or recommended. Allow the henna to work its magic. Wait a full 48 hours from initial application for the henna to peak. You cannot make your design darker once it has faded. The only way to achieve a darker design is by reapplying it once it has already started to fade. How do I remove the paste? To remove the dried paste, scrape it off with a plastic knife or just by rubbing your hands on it. Try not to wash away the area with water for as long as possible. Even with the dried paste off the skin, the residue will continue to work. The longer you leave the residue or paste on your skin, the darker the color will be. It is recommended that you remove the paste over a sink so you can wash away the particles immediately. How do I clean up the dried paste? The paste can be cleaned up by simply sweeping it away or by vacuuming. You can throw the dried paste in the garbage or wash it down the sink. Will the henna endure showers and baths? Yes. You can carry on your day to day showering and bathing routine. Apply an oil before showering to protect the design. This will help your design stay on longer. The henna will last anywhere from 3 days to three weeks with normal routines. If you swim often, your henna will fade away faster due to the chlorine content in the swimming pool. Will henna stain my clothes? Henna can stain your clothes if there is any moisture remaining in the henna or on your clothes. The dried paste will not stain your skin or clothes unless your skin or clothes are even slightly wet. If the henna does get on your clothes, wash the area immediately, and apply laundry detergent to the area and let it soak. Dryclean the clothes if necessary.
30 B O D Y T E M P L AT E S T O H E L P S TA R T Y O U R O W N H E N N A D E S I G N P O R T F O L I O