INDUSTRY REPORT. By Nathan Munn.

Similar documents
Price fluctuations. Financial feasibility

Global Diamond and Gemstone Market: Trends and Opportunities ( ) March 2015

Signet Responsible Sourcing Protocol For Diamonds. Ensuring The Integrity Of The Natural Diamond Supply Chain. April 18, 2017

Indian Gems & Jewellery January 2018

US Jewelry Market with Focus on Engagement Rings: Industry Analysis & Outlook ( )

Synthetics drive revolution in diamond technology

Mt RoseySapphires Building a global brand in Luxury Blue

29 January Cullinan Grade versus Value Analysis. Background

CHAPTER NO 1 INTRODUCTION

The US Jewelry Market Report

NATURAL FANCY COLORED DIAMONDS As well as Rubies, Emeralds, and Sapphires, available at Rare Diamond Investor

How Signet Leads: Driving Integrity in the Global Jewelry Supply Chain By Virginia C. Drosos, Chief Executive Officer, Signet Jewelers

A STUDY OF DIAMOND TRADE VIS.-À-VIS. GEMS AND JEWELLERY TRADE AND TOTAL MERCHANDISE TRADE OF INDIA DURING THE LAST DECADE

Global Eyewear Market: Industry Analysis & Outlook ( )

Indirect competitors influence hair styling sales

Simon Corish Deputy Chair, Cotton Australia

SYNTHETIC GEMS THAT ARE MORE FREQUENTLY SYNTHESIZED

Diamonds have evolved into a very traditional business with little innovation. How did it happen?

Popular Jewelry Styles Major Retailers: Facts & Figures Celebrity & Online Trends Polygon Member Insights INDUSTRY REPORT.

2. The US Apparel and Footwear Market Size by Personal Consumption Expenditure,

THE GLOBAL DIAMOND INDUSTRY. Portrait of growth

PVC FACT BOOK Edition VINYL ENVIRONMENTAL COUNCIL (VEC)

Global Handbags Market

PANDORA IN EMEA DAVID ALLEN MARCH 3 RD 2017

CHAPTER - III EXPORT PERFORMANCE OF INDIA S GEMS AND JEWELLERY PRODUCTS IN THE GLOBAL MARKET

Centre of Excellence for Gems & Jewellery. Skill Development Government of Gujarat

S R I L A N K A APPAREL

BUSINESS STRATEGY AND POLICY - MGMT3031

EMERGENTSKY RUSSIA AESTHETIC MEDICINE MARKET REPORT JUNE 2014

For updated information, please visit March 2018

TO STUDY THE RETAIL JEWELER S IMPORTANCE TOWARDS SELLING BRANDED JEWELLERY

Address by CEO Karl-Johan Persson at H&M s AGM 2017

For updated information, please visit September 2017

Thailand s Jewelry Industry Overview 2016

DIAMONDS. Natural Synthetic Treated. Branko Deljanin. Identification of

Mehdi Mahbub CEO & Chief Consultant, Best Sourcing Founder, RMG Bangladesh GLOBAL TRENDS IN THE GARMENT SECTOR AND OPPORTUNITIES FOR BANGLADESH

Levi Strauss & Co: Reimagining Product Innovation for Sustainability

US Denim Jeans Market Report

10 TRUTHS ABOUT ITALIAN COMPETITIVENESS FOCUS ON THE BOATBUILDING SECTOR

Overview of the Global Textile Industry

NATHAN JOHNSON APOSTOLIC CLOTHING

FOURIER TRANSFORM INFRA RED SPECTROSCOPY OF THE LARGE DIAMONDS RECOVERED FROM THE STAR KIMBERLITE AT FORT À LA CORNE, SASKATCHEWAN

For updated information, please visit December 2017

Investment Opportunities in the Design Industry in Taiwan

Food Industry Skin Safety

The Unique Jewel Born from a Star

Standing up for women

Sant Enterprises Introduces the Rose of Mozambique Gemfields Ruby

Global Athletic Footwear Market: Industry Analysis & Outlook ( )

Roo Hsing CO., Ltd. 7/31/2017

INDIAN JEWELLERY MARKET-METAMORPHOSIS INTRODUCTION

Do all rough work in this book. Cross through any work you do not want to be marked.

Current cotton fiber market in Russia

China Home Textile Industry Report, Apr. 2013

Global Medical Aesthetics Market Report

INDUSTRY OVERVIEW. No. of establishments 117 (manufacturing) March ,257 (import and export) December 2000

Understanding Takt Time in the Modern Office

PLATINUM JEWELLERY BUSINESS REVIEW

POST EVENT REPORT ON INDIA PAVILION VIDEO CLICK HERE

Cilotex CIRCULAR LOGISTICS A NEED FOR MORE TRACEABILITY? JAN MERCKX

Global Handbags Market Report

How to Simplify Your Frac Site. Presented by Firstname Surname, Job Title

ALASKA GROSS STATE PRODUCT

For updated information, please visit July 2018

PROBLEMS OF INDIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY S Madhavi* 1, Dr T Rama Devi 2

LAB GROWN DIAMONDS OVERVIEW

CONsCIOUs ACTIONs Highlights 2012

CHRISTIAN DIOR 2017 RECORD RESULTS

Notes on an Obsession

REPORT ON Jewellery Shanghai 2011 China Int l Gold Jewellery & Gem Fair, at Shanghai 16 th June 19 th June, 2011.

Textes et photos mis librement à disposition des médias pour diffusion journalistique

THE NATIONAL COUNCIL OF TEXTILE ORGANIZATIONS REPRESENTING THE ENTIRE SPECTRUM OF THE U.S. DOMESTIC TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Dear Excellencies, Ladies and Gentlemen, Dear KP Family,

Medical Aesthetic Devices: Technologies and Global Markets

businesses with over 20, 30 or 40 years market experience, and yet we can say that we are present in more markets than they are, and in record time.

1. Global Production and Trade of Raw Jute and Jute Goods: A Low Level Equilibrium Market 2. Production and Export of Jute and Jute Goods in Banglades

Global Fast Fashion Market with Focus on The United States: Size, Trends & Forecast ( ) June 2016

Sports Footwear Industry Challenges for leather sector

Corporate Responsibility. Les Krepa - Head of Audit and Risk Signet (23 January 2014)

Development of Certificate Programme in Jewellery Designing through ODL

Diamond Education on Loose Diamonds, Diamond Rings and Jewelry

Strong consumer connect is the essence of brand value.

Diamond exporters look to domestic market as rupee gains strength

MarketsandMarkets. Publisher Sample

MANAGEMENT PROGRAMME

42 DAYS OF THE PURPLE DIAMOND REIGN

«The entrepreneur is enterprising he is not just a financier.» Philippe Gaydoul

Impact note on import duty hike

Post Event Report on 2 nd Indo Russia Jewellery Summit 2012

Hairdreams Celebrates 25 Years of MicroLines: THE #1 HAIR THICKENING SYSTEM IS BETTER THAN EVER!

CAPRI HOLDINGS LIMITED

Kadgee Clothing. Scenario and requirement

Louis Vuitton in India

PREMIER DIAMOND GROUP (NORTH AMERICA) LTD.

From Cotton To Retail: Consumption & Future Implications. Robert Antoshak

LEO. Natural Diamond Segregator For Mounted & Loose Stone

CV. BEAUTY KASATAMA COMPANY PROFILE.

SUGI INTERNATIONAL. Headquartered in Hong Kong, Sugi International Ltd is a leading player in the footwear industry. CONTENTS

ADVANCED DIPLOMA OF BUSINESS BSB60215

TURKISH COSMETICS MARKET

Transcription:

INDUSTRY REPORT By Nathan Munn www.polygon.net

1 Rise of the Synthetic Stone: A Polygon Industry Report INTRODUCTION SYNTHETIC DIAMOND TECHNOLOGY NATURAL DIAMONDS: PEAK SUPPLY? UNDISCLOSED SYNTHETICS IN SUPPLY CHAIN CIRCLING THE WAGONS CONCLUSION. 2. 3. 4. 5. 7. 8

2 INTRODUCTION On March 15, 2015, the world s largest diamond greenhouse opened for business in Singapore. Owned and operated by IIa Technologies, the facility is a sprawling testament to the potential of disruptive innovation. Located in an industrial area of Singapore, the complex spans 200,000 square feet; inside, around 200 state-of-the-art machines produce Type IIa diamonds around the clock using the Microwave Plasma Chemical Vapor Deposition (MPCVD) method. IIa Technologies isn t the only diamond farm to undertake a major expansion in recent months. Scio Diamond, a South Carolina-based diamond grower, announced in March that it would double production capacity after receiving a $2.5 million investment from Heritage Gemstone Investors. Like IIa Technologies, Scio is able to produce high-quality Type IIa diamonds for a variety of applications, with a focus on the industrial market. These companies are expanding at a pivotal moment for the diamond industry. While synthetic diamonds have been around for decades, the quality, ubiquity and scale of production of synthetic stones in 2015 is unprecedented. Producers of natural diamonds are understandably concerned about the increasing viability of synthetic diamonds as a desirable product for the luxury jewelry consumer.

3 Nearly all industrial demand for diamonds is satisfied with HPHT synthetics. SYNTHETIC DIAMOND TECHNOLOGY HPHT vs. CVD True synthetic diamonds can be manufactured using several methods. The most reliable and common of these methods are High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD), which are used by nearly all synthetic diamond manufacturers. Diamonds created using these methods typically exhibit properties that are on par with or superior to those exhibited by natural diamonds, including hardness and the ability to conduct heat. Diamonds created using HPHT or CVD can be used in a wide variety of applications, from industrial-strength abrasives and tools used for cutting and polishing hard materials, to CO2 lasers, heat sinks, power switches and gyrotrons. They can also be cut into gems and treated with radiation to produce colors, including yellow, orange, brown, blue, green and clear white. However, gem-quality stones created with HPHT method are not in high demand because HPHT stones are generally of a low quality, with poor clarity and a tendency to be tinted yellow or brown. In 1956, General Electric perfected the HPHT method, which led to the widespread adoption of HPHT diamonds for industrial uses. Today, ResourceInvestor.com estimates that 98% of industrial demand for diamonds is satisfied with synthetics made using HPHT. The CVD diamond production method was patented in 1954, two years before General Electric s discovery of HPHT, but efforts to produce gem-quality diamonds using CVD were not recognized by scientists until the late 1980 s. Cont d. >>

4 Annual global production of rough diamonds peaked in 2006 at 176.7m carats. In a research paper from 2013, Kitco notes that CVD production of diamonds is much more economical than the HPHT method, despite the fact that HPHT diamonds require fewer ingredients and less time to create. For this reason, HPHT is generally used to produce industrial-grade diamonds, while CVD is used almost exclusively for gem-quality stones. Currently, synthetic diamonds account for only about 2% of total gem diamond sales worldwide. NATURAL DIAMONDS: PEAK SUPPLY? Globally, the production of natural rough diamonds is in decline. According to data from research firm Frost & Sullivan, annual global production of rough diamonds peaked in 2006 at 176.7 million carats. Between 2006 and 2013, annual global rough production has fallen significantly from this peak, with only 131 million carats produced in 2013. Of all the rough diamonds produced globally every year, 99% originate from one of nine countries: Angola, Australia, Botswana, Canada, the DRC, Russia, Namibia, South Africa and Zimbabwe. Dwindling production at most major mines in these countries is forcing extraction companies to dig deeper, driving up production costs and shortening the lifespan of the mines. The Bain Global Diamond Industry Report for 2013 projects that beginning in 2019 global rough diamond production will fall by 1.9% annually. As well, many new mines being proposed today have projected life spans of less than 20 years. For example, the new Gahacho Kue mine in Canada is only expected to operate for 11 years. The Snap Lake mine, also in Canada, was bankrolled by De Beers Group to the tune of $2 billion in 2012. The mine has not yet reached production goals and has a lifespan of only 20 years. Cont d. >>

5 Undisclosed synthetics are increasingly being found in batches of natural stones. Exploration budgets for diamond mining have also plummeted: after peaking at $985 million in 2007, only $490 million was spent on diamond exploration in 2013. While other numbers seem to contradict the projections of dwindling rough production, even these optimistic assessments include figures that reflect a worrying gap between projected diamond supply and growing global demand: KPMG notes that while total global supply of rough diamonds is expected to rise to 175 million carats by 2020, driven by increasing production at new and existing mines, global demand for diamonds is expected to surpass available supply by 72 million carats during the same timeframe. It is this projected gap between supply and demand that is the primary motivator driving today s synthetic diamond producers. The predicted gap between global rough diamond supply and increasing consumer demand represents a huge opportunity for producers of lab-grown diamonds, who are positioned to fill the gap with a practically unlimited supply of synthetics. UNDISCLOSED SYNTHETICS IN SUPPLY CHAIN Despite the availability of synthetic diamond detectors, undisclosed synthetics are increasingly finding their way into the natural diamond supply chain. In February 2015, 110 undisclosed synthetic stones were discovered among a batch of natural diamonds in Surat, India, the largest diamond cutting center in the world. This event was just the latest in a series of high-profile discoveries of synthetic diamonds hidden within parcels of natural stones to occur in recent years. The discovery added fuel to the fire of natural producers concerns about the pervasiveness and quality of synthetic stones, but also about the effect that ongoing discoveries of synthetics among packages of natural would have on overall consumer confidence in diamonds as both commodity and luxury item. Cont d. >>

6 The world s largest producers of rough have formed a new industry association. Other recent discoveries of undisclosed synthetic diamonds include: - In May 2012, more than 600 undisclosed synthetics were sent to the International Gemological Institute in Antwerp in an attempt to have the stones certified as natural. A separate parcel of 10 undisclosed synthetics was sent to an IGI lab in Mumbai around the same time. - In January 2013, New York City-based Analytical Gemology & Jewelry received a parcel of 4,556 stones; 243 turned out to be synthetic. CIRCLING THE WAGONS: PRODUCERS OF ROUGH TAKE AIM AT SYNTHETICS Traditional producers of rough aren t taking the challenge from diamond growers lying down. In March 2015, Bloomberg.com reported that representatives from the world s largest diamond producers had met to discuss concerns about the future of the diamond industry and the increasing supply of synthetic stones in the global supply chain in particular. Anglo American PLC, Alrosa AO, Rio Tinto Group, Petra Diamonds, Gem Diamonds, Dominion Diamond Corp., Lucara Diamond Corp. and OAO Lukoil all participated in the meeting, which resulted in the creation of the world s first diamond industry association. It was reported that the new association would have an annual budget of $6 million, to be used to promote natural diamonds and the traditional supply chain model. Industry analysts were quick to note that, in the past, diamond producers have generally been averse to collaborating with competitors and that the new association signaled an unprecedented level of cooperation between producers, indicating a real concern about the future of the industry among its most prominent players. Cont d. >>

7 De Beers Group produces several devices that can detect synthetic diamonds. Together, the eight producers of the association account for the majority of the world s supply of rough diamonds. The association represents a new era for the diamond industry, which has been without cultural or structural leadership since 2004, when De Beers Group lost a decade-long legal battle with the United States government over charges of diamond price fixing. As a result of the ruling, De Beers was effectively barred from doing business in the U.S. between 2004 and 2014, limiting the group s power within the industry. Now that De Beers is once again allowed to ply its trade in America, the producer has rolled out a comprehensive strategy to consolidate its position as an industry leader while simultaneously taking aim at synthetic stone producers. In February 2015, De Beers Executive Head of Strategy Bruce Cleaver reportedly declared synthetics to be a threat to profitability and sustainability; In April, the company published an article on its website titled De Beers Leads The Way In Tackling Undisclosed Synthetics. De Beers is an industry leader in synthetic detection, and produces several devices that are able to identify potentially synthetic diamonds including the Automated Melee Screener (AMS), and the DiamondView and DiamondSure devices.

8 CONCLUSION The value and utility of high-quality synthetic diamonds lies entirely in the eye of the beholder. For consumers, synthetic stones represent an opportunity to buy diamonds at lower prices and to support sustainable production practices; for unscrupulous parties, synthetics offer an opportunity to take advantage of uneducated buyers. Synthetics provide economical solutions for industrial, medical and high-end technology products that require the precision and durability of diamonds. Synthetics also directly challenge the market dominance of the diamond production cartels of the past century. It is ironic that the diamond market for so long, tightly controlled and manipulated by the De Beers Group is being thoroughly disrupted by technology innovators who have no reverence for the diamond producers of the 20 th century. For traditional producers, the very existence of high-quality synthetic stones threatens to undermine (no pun intended) the value of the global natural diamond supply. There are several reasons why the latest iteration of diamond-producing technology is poised to disrupt the diamond industry in ways that previous generations of technology have not, including quality, ubiquity, cost and social acceptance. Beyond these reasons, there is a fundamental weakness, and business opportunity, in the global diamond supply chain that the synthetic diamond industry addresses directly, with potentially destructive results for producers who continue to expend time and resources digging diamonds out of the ground.

9 Sources GIA.edu ResourceInvestor.com Kitco.com Frost & Sullivan Bain & Company JCK Online Bloomberg.com Wikipedia.org DeBeersGroup.com KPMG JewellerMagazine.com IDEX