DAY 3 6 th August, 2016 WHAT S ON TODAY Seminar: (Mezzanine, Hall 1) Time: 10.00 am - 11.00 am Topic: GJEPC Institutes Speak (Free Session) Time: 11.00 am - 12.15 pm Topic: Parameters to Increase Profitability Time: 12.30 pm - 1.30 pm Topic: Facilitate Gold Financing (Session in Hindi) Time: 1.30 pm - 2.30 pm Topic: Identify Synthetic Diamonds Time: 2.30 pm - 4.00 pm Topic: Power of Merchandising - Visual & Product Time: 4.00 pm - 5.30 pm Topic: Price v. Volume Platinum earrings set with diamonds and emeralds by Rosentiques good design is the soul of a jewellery piece, and at the 33rd A edition of the IIJS, one gets to see many such collections that highlight a blend of creative and technical expertise. Exhibitors this time have picked up cues and have come up with super-light jewellery across the pret, couture and bridal categories owing to the sluggish pace of the market and the high gold rate. A well-designed collection of cuff links in silver titled Thee Wild is displayed by Jewels Emporium, Jaipur. Partner Anup Bohra informed that apart from showcasing their avant-garde and one-off Masterstrokes collection, this time they have decided to venture into men s jewellery. The rugged and wellexecuted line has an element of crystal in each piece. Justin Varkey of Jewel Ace, Jaipur, revealed that their lariats with thewa motifs have generated a lot of interest at the show. Another collection that is receiving a good response is the diverse range of cuff links crafted in gold or silver. Priced between R1,500 and R50,000, the cufflinks are adorned with enamel, thewa work, honeycomb structures and antique finish. The cuff links also have hints of tiny emeralds, turquoise, lapis lazuli, rubies, sapphires and more. This category works very well for gifting purposes and customers have placed many orders on India International Jewellery Show Haute Couture Jewels Shine At IIJS day one itself, Varkey noted. The other lines that Jewel Ace is getting great response for is the Tamanna collection weighing between 12 gm and 14 gm, consisting of pendant and earring sets ornamented with fine quality pearls. The company has also introduced diamond- and gem-studded interchangeable earrings that can be worn in three or four different ways. It can take you from the work place to a party in the evening within seconds. Mansukh Kothari of Vasupati Jewellers, Mumbai, commented that he and his design team had done their homework months in advance and they decided to bring in three new collections in 22-karat gold that are contemporary yet connect to Indian traditional roots. The Zahra line bears blooming gold flowers suspended from textured and plain necklaces. The Aavali collection is dominated by multiple rows of gemstones dotted with motifs adorned with South Sea pearls, polkis and emeralds and rubies, and the Samyukta collection consists of traditional antique jewellery adorned with South Sea pearls, khakha motis and more. We have tried to rein in the price points, while not compromising on the design element. Platinum jewellery at Rosentiques got a touch of colour thanks to fine quality Zambian emeralds. Amish Kothari, (continued on page 2)
COVER STORY (continued from page 1) director of the firm, has specially designed a limited edition of 10 earrings and rings in platinum set with fancy-cut diamonds and emeralds in various cuts such as pears, cabochons, octagons and carved gems. The earrings are as light as 25 gm to 30 gm, while the range of rings weighs between 15 gm and 20 gm. The retail price of this platinum collection is between R10 lakh and R15 lakh. The confluence of ancient crafts and new technical treatments is bringing in a new genre of fusion jewellery. Vipul Mehta of Laxmi Jewellery Exports presented some exquisite pieces of kundan partaj work in bridal sets that married technical excellence with crafts such as filigree, bead work and more. Mehta said, We have tried to reduce the gold weight in every bridal set by around 20-25% even as we have retained bigger, fuller forms. Our collection Gem-set cuff links by Jewel Ace for the Nazraana brand features diamonds from Rio Tinto and we have enhanced these magnificent choker sets with South Sea pearls and fine enamels. These, too, are getting a very good response at the show. Umrao Jewels saw a good Textured gold bangles by NM Karel & Sons number of clients on day one. Shashwat Shah, co-founder of the company, stated, We have reinvented old classic designs that will appeal to the modern woman. Fiveand seven-row ladas are extremely popular. Chokers with antique finish and layered with long multi-row necklaces are still going strong. Pasas and jhoomers are the other hot-selling categories. D.D. Karel, director of NM Karel & Sons, New Delhi, informed that this time the company had experimented with different surface textures in their 22-karat gold bangles and kadas. The designs are minimalistic yet very arresting with Synthetic Melee Screening Services Gaining Pace The first seminar on day two on the screening and identification of synthetic diamonds was moderated by Shripal Desai of GII. The seminar touched upon the various options available for fast, accurate and cost-effective methods of screening synthetic diamonds. Dr. M.D. Shastry, head of R&D at GII, informed that the newly launched GII-Aerotek Quick-CHK instrument is able to detect the phosphorescence of colourless IIa and IIb synthetics in melee sizes, a category that is a growing concern for the trade. Most IIb lab-grown diamonds show good phosphorescence and this makes it possible to locate them in studded jewellery as well, he revealed. Dr. Shastry also noted that synthetic diamond manufacturers are now able to grow ultra-large type IIa single crystal diamonds of up to 100 carats using HPHT methods. Matthew Hall of GIA India said the quality of CVD and HPHT synthetic diamonds and the technologies to produce them have improved significantly in the past 10 years. Hall added that the most accurate and efficient way to sort melee diamonds is to determine the diamond type all white melee synthetic diamonds are type II, while all HPHT treated white diamonds are type II or type IaB. He informed that the GIA has recently developed a sophisticated device for melee diamond screening, with high accuracy and efficiency that also sorts diamond colour automatically. Hall said the GIA will introduce the Melee Analysis Service in India in September this year. Synthetic melee in the trade are mainly produced using HPHT technology as CVD technology is not financially suitable for mass production of melee diamonds. Apart from the main CVD diamond manufacturers such as Singapore-based Gemesis (IIa Technologies), and the US-based SCIO (Apollo), Washington Diamonds and Diamond Foundry, there are many growing facilities in China and India, Hall revealed. Multi-row choker by Vasupati Jewellers Pradeep Jethani of Jet Gems informed that illusion-set baguette and round diamonds in square shapes were in demand apart from detachable multiple rings that could be worn singly or all together. Gold-intensive bangles predominant use of twisted gold coils and gold tubes finished with filigree, lace work and enamelling. Other than design, the weight of the piece is the primary factor when buyers make the decision to order jewellery. Fusion necklace by Laxmi Jewellery Exports with light, lacy forms or creased textures were favoured. Pink gold is an all-time favourite with consumers this season, he added. Earrings and bracelets are the most popular jewellery categories that buyers are looking at, said Karan Garodia of Sanskriti. Their floral earrings set with pink and yellow sapphires in briolettes and pears were favoured. Also, their back-to-front earrings and ear crawlers, all fashioned with corals, tanzanites, morganites below R1 lakh were preferred. Most manufacturers agree that buyers want a high design quotient with lower price points. Most of the buyers have cut down their purchases by 30% to 50% as compared to last year, but the average sweet spot for necklace sets is between R5 lakh and R7 lakh, and earrings and rings under R3 lakh. Anything above R15 lakh is moving slowly. Pink and blue sapphire ear studs by Sanskriti Transparency & Standardisation A Must To Retail In Rural India The seminar Retailing Jewellery in Rural India enlightened participants about the psyche of a rural consumer, his needs, and the growth potential of retailing in rural India. Anil Prabhakar, director of 4 AAy s Consulting, was the moderator for the seminar. India s rural and semi-urban markets account for 60% of India s gold jewellery consumption. While earlier the market was dominated by traditional family jewellers, many chain stores have turned their focus on rural markets. Vaideeshwaran N., the national sales head for Goldplus, a Titan brand that caters to the semi-urban and rural areas, pointed out that one needs to create awareness about the brand and engage consumers. Goldplus created awareness by taking the Karat Meter to various villages and asked people to come and test the purity of their jewellery. 96% of the jewellery that was brought was under-karated. We then educated them about hallmarked jewellery and gave them an opportunity to visit our factories to convince them about Goldplus high quality controls and checks and gold purity assurance, said Vaideeshwaran N. He added that brands also need to convince people in rural India to break the bond with their family jewellers. This can be done by showing that that the brand stands for honesty and transparency. Keyur Shah, CEO of Muthoot Exim Precious Metals Division, said that a brand need to standardise its products. In 2013, Muthoot launched its jewellery brand Swarnavarsham Jewellery which offers hallmarked jewellery with easy instalments between 1.5 gms and 9.5 gms in tamper-proof packaging, a first of its kind in India. They have met with great success and have had 1,30,000 customers in the last three years with 40% of them being repeat customers. He also added that consumers are not affected by the stock market or gold price. Sankar Sen, chairman and managing director of Senco Gold Group added that rural India is neglected when it comes to designs and high quality products. Urban customers are pampered with more choices. Senco Gold ensures that they treat their rural customers at par with their urban counterparts. The stores in rural India too are well stocked with hallmarked jewellery in a wide variety of designs. Senco initially met with resistance in the local markets but once they convinced the people about transparency and quality, the brand was well accepted. 2
GJEPC NEWS The Generic Diamond Campaign Is About Creating An Impact When will you start working on the campaign? The posters are already up at IIJS to invite retailers to be a part of this initiative. I strongly urge the retailers to register themselves with the GJEPC and there is no cost involved in it. Sachin Jain President, Forevermark India Can you tell us more about the De Beers MoU with the GJEPC? We ve just signed the MoU and it is still in the initial stages. There is a strong requirement for generic promotion to boost the demand for diamonds as well as consumer sentiments. This is one thing that we at De Beers and the GJPEC both feel strongly about. It is a collaborative effort. We will offer concept and branding strategy for the generic promotion and the GJEPC will provide the legs to the programme by roping retailers into the campaign. C GJEP S NEW Venue: Hall 2 Tell us more about the promotion. Who is your target audience? Basically, this campaign is about creating an impact. We are looking to target young married couples between the age group of 25 and 35. Consumers don t just buy jewellery after seeing an ad. We want to bring in an emotional connect. We also want the campaign to be inclusive and reach out to everyone. We plan to focus on small diamonds in order to keep diamonds accessible to all. Since it is a very short period, we will not develop a new product for this campaign at this stage. We will work with something that the retailers already have in their inventory. We are looking to promote cluster-set diamond jewellery. These are not high-end pieces and are easily affordable. The campaign will focus on the new husband s perspective the fact that he cherishes his wife and the happiness that she has brought into his life. How soon will you launch the campaign? The initiative will roll out in October during the festive season and will continue for three months. Tell us more about Forevermark s designer collaborations? The designers bring in their own perspective. We launched a collection with Bibhu Mohapatra in April and will soon launch a collection with couturier Sabyasachi Retailers & Manufacturers TO PA RTICIPATE IN TH E NATI O NAL ADVERTI S I NG C AM PAI G N. STARTI NG O C TO B ER 2 016. VISIT THE GJEPC B O OTH FO R D ETAI LS AND R EG I STR ATI O N. Mukherjee in September. The collection has a vintage appeal and draws on the aesthetics of the art deco era, particularly the 1920s to 1940s. The collection focuses only on earrings and rings. Forevermark s merchandising strategy for Bibhu Mohapatra s collection is different; currently, it is available only in two stores. The response is very decent and it should pick up in the coming months. Soon the collection will be available in eight stores. GJEPC Meet On Proposed Gems & Jewellery Park At IIJS Date: August 7, 2016 Time: 12.30pm to 1.30pm Industrial parks have become an integral part of business models for leading sectors all over the world; they enhance business and trade development which leads to economic growth. T he Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) has invited all its members, IIJS exhibitors, and the trade at large in Maharashtra and beyond to attend a presentation on the proposed state-of-theart Gems & Jewellery Park, which will be based in the financial capital, Mumbai. The main aim of the Gems & Jewellery Park is to integrate the small and medium manufacturers of handmade plain gold and studded jewellery under one roof. The ministry of commerce had requested the GJEPC to frame the policy of the Gems & Jewellery Park along the lines of the software, leather or textile parks in the country. The Park will be the first of its kind in the country, 4 WE WANT YOU equipped with the best technology and machines for greater efficiency and to promote better work culture. The main thrust of the Gems & Jewellery Park will be to offer a convenient manufacturing location to the handmade and small-scale sector. The Council has already initiated discussions with the Maharashtra government for the venture and the signs are encouraging in developing this concept in the near future.
DESIGN CORNER Designs & Trends Are Changing Faster Than Ever Saurabh Mody Co-founder, Amdean Exports (Angaaraa) How would you rate IIJS in terms of meeting new clients? Being the largest trade show for the gems and jewellery industry in the country, it definitely is a big platform to meet and connect with the fraternity. Tell us more about the collections/ themes that you will be displaying at the show. Design is an evolving process. How one presents the story is as important as the design. We have built a lot of designs around centre stones, in classic formats. Also, we have worked extensively on building a separate line using illusion centres with brilliant cuts surrounding it, so it looks exciting. Overall, we are keeping the format simple, and letting the diamond be the hero. You use a lot of colour in your jewellery. What are the popular gemstones trending currently? I love colour! It adds character to a piece of jewellery. What we use at Angaaraa is what our customers ask us to use and what we believe looks good, complements the design and enhances the jewel. We have stuck to the basics and have extensively used rubies, emeralds, spinels, rubellites and tanzanites in different shapes. Are you concentrating more on any one product category? If yes, which one? We have made a range of products from rings, earrings, sautoirs and cuffs in different price points. No degree of separation here but, if you were to ask me, earrings sell well as a woman can adorn herself with a nice pair of earrings along with a nice dramatic cuff and she is ready to go out for a party. What according to you does the customer of today prefer? The perception of jewellery is changing. The consumer has an endless supply chain to choose from. Trends are changing faster than ever before. People are far more exposed and travelled and understand luxury in a much deeper way. I believe that in today s day of high competitiveness, there is still room for design and creativity. Products which are high on aesthetics and detailing will always have an edge over the rest. What are your expectations from this show? In these challenging times, it will be interesting to see the fraternity respond and adapt to changes. I wish all exhibitors a successful IIJS 2016! Our Jewellery Is A Twist On The Classics Aakash Barmecha CEO Yoube Jewellery, Mumbai Is this your first venture in IIJS? Or have you been participating under a different company name? We have participated in IIJS earlier but took a break for a short while. However, we are now back! What are your expectations from the show this time? After a very dull year, hopes are up for this show as the markets seem to show some signs of recovery. Your company deals in designer diamond jewellery. What are you going to present at the show? Yes, we always strive to present something innovative and unique. We are presenting The Luxe collection, which consists mainly of rings and earrings featuring fancyshaped diamonds in bigger sizes. It s a twist on the classics. Tell us in detail about certain collections. Have you only used diamonds or other gemstones? Using only diamonds is plain boring unless they are solitaires. Being a gemmologist, I am passionate about colour gemstones and so, they are a must in most of my pieces. You can find all sorts of precious and semiprecious stones used in our collections. All the collections are unique and sure to stand out from the crowd. Which gem and diamond cuts have you used? What are the popular price points for diamond jewellery? We have used full-cuts, rose-cuts, polkis and teamed them with stones like kunzites, rubies, emeralds, and tanzanites. As for the retail price range, we are offering diamond jewellery priced from H2,00,000 to H10,00,000. What are the latest market trends and what do consumers prefer these days? Smaller pieces with larger diamonds and minimal design are moving well. Which jewellery category is most popular now? Given the market conditions, earrings are probably the hottest-selling category as of now, followed closely by rings. 6
BRAND WATCH Csaba Hegedus Isabelle Lopes Shaun Leane Gem Visions Swarovski presents its 2017 edition of Gem Visions offering a detailed examination of the cultural megatrends that are currently shaping design directions for the fine and bridge jewellery industry. Swarovski s team of select industry experts has analysed the results of the detailed investigations conducted and has extracted four dominant themes governing jewellery design. The four trends are Existence, Haute Gems, Easy-Trans-Form, and Self-Art. Daniela Villegas In Existence, science meets spirituality in a dance of exploration that seeks to integrate the hidden and perhaps mystical aspects of the planet into a grand story that celebrates life on earth set within the context of the wider universe, while Haute Gems celebrates the resurgence of opulence as seen in monumentally spectacular jewels that shout pure drama. Jessica Fong Easy-Trans-Form is part of a new desire for versatility in jewellery, for jewels that adapt and transform, that work together with women s multi-faceted lives. The fourth trend, Self-Art is a completely new approach to self-expression through jewellery. Featured here are designer pieces in collaboration with Swarovski that stay true to the four trends for the coming year. Lydia Courteille Sarah Ho Tomasz Donocik Isabelle Lopes 8
BRAND WATCH Razzle Dazzle Imagem presents Dazzle a classy collection created for the global woman of today, who is liberal, well-informed and independent to the core. The collection focuses on solitaire-styled jewellery which is made affordable through the intelligent use of round diamonds and baguettes. Fine lines of gleaming -2 size diamonds complement and encase the composite emeralds and rounds. The collection consists of elaborate designs for special occasions as well as classy minimalistic designs for everyday wear. Imagem, the authorised licensee for Disney Jewels, will also launch their exclusive collection of pendants, earrings, rings, charm bracelets, necklace sets and oval baby kadas crafted in plain gold, studded with diamonds as well as with Swarovski cubic zirconia. Fusion of Colours YS18, a high-end jewellery brand of Intergem Exports, Indore, presents a stunning range of colourful baubles that are suffused with contrasting shades of gemstones. The ombre-shaded unique creations in yellow, white and rose gold, set with gems and fancy colour diamonds, are perfect accessories for daily or party wear. Blending colours with everyday life is the inspiration for this collection, says Sudeep Sethi, director of YS18. Our personal passion and interest in colour stones and appreciating their value is the foundation for many of our jewellery pieces, adds Sethi. We love the Art Deco style, but also wanted to build a collection around exclusive pieces that offer the same luxurious appeal and importantly, are affordable. Bursting with the spirit of new life, our selection of modern jewellery will add that extra special touch to your personality, says Sudeep. The collection is designed by acclaimed painter and jewellery designer Yogendra Sethi, who believes that colours infuse a fresh spirit in life. 10
BRAND WATCH Contemporary Cuffs This season, Sundaram Chains has launched a collection of their statement 18-karat gold bracelets encrusted with diamonds. Crafted with modern techniques, the inspiration has been taken from floral temptations. The composition of fancy-cut diamonds adds to the beauty of the pieces. The double-safety magnetic lock not only provides security, but also a fancy look. These pieces can be teamed with both Indian and Western outfits. A bridal necklace with matching earrings are defined with modern textured finishes and kundan work. The 22-karat pachheli bangle is set with kundan and intricate meenakari work. The 22-karat geometric bangle is highlighted with modern motifs in traditional meenakari work. Only For Brides N. M. Karel & Sons, New Delhi, presents a new line of 22-karat gold jewellery that displays interesting textures, kundan work, and intricate Bikaneri meena to create a rich heritage look with a touch of modern influences. Flaunt these ornate traditional pieces on your special day and feel like royalty. 11
BRAND WATCH Dance of the Peacock Gold Artism celebrates nature through its creations and immortalises them in gold and diamonds. The layered necklace depicts a peacock perched atop a gold scroll. While the peacock is set with blue stones, its feathers are illustrated with blooming flowers. The necklace is further accented with a polki-encrusted kundan motif with a hanging blue droplet that breaks the monotony of the gold. Inspired by Kathakali, a South Indian dance form, the necklace is simple yet expressive. TRADE FAIR Couture India 2016 Registration Opens Indian Jeweller (IJ) magazine is organising an exclusive business boutique show named Couture India from September 24-26, 2016 at the Taj Palace in New Delhi. Couture India will showcase the top 40 makers of designer, jadau and fine jewellery who will get a chance to connect with the top retailers of the country. The exhibition is open to all retailers and storeowners who want to add couture or fine jewellery to their inventory for the upcoming Diwali and bridal season. For Registrations, visit www.coutureindia.show for more details or call 0141-4112393 or 022 26756055. Venus Online Challenge At IIJS Venus Jewel, a leading manufacturer and supplier of polished diamonds, has started a contest to communicate its technological capabilities at the IIJS (Booth #J 25-29 & H 26-30). The challenge is to judge the clarity grade of a diamond after having viewed it virtually on the website www.venusjewel.com. The right answer will win a surprise gift! Venus Jewel believes that the buying experience on its website is just as good as physically seeing the diamond. To encourage confidence and trust in every customer and every prospective buyer, it is important to first provide maximum product information, educate them and ultimately empower our partners in their buying decisions, says Rajesh R. Shah, partner, Venus Jewel. HIGHLIGHT Regulars ELITE CLUB The Elite Club comprising large and medium retailers has undergone a comprehensive makeover and now includes leading buyers from tier I, II & III cities across India. It offers select retailers privileged hospitality in their exclusive lounges, where one can rejuvenate, interact with guests, get refreshments and experience relaxation at its best. COMPLIMENTARY SHUTTLE SERVICE For Bombay Exhibition Centre (BEC): From Goregaon (E) station to the venue, between 7.30 am and 10 am. From the venue to Goregaon (E) station between 5 pm and 8 pm. For The Lalit Hotel: Shuttle Bus Services from BEC to The Lalit Hotel will be available at regular intervals. ONLINE BUSINESS MATCHING PROGRAMME The Online Business Matching Programme enables registered visitors to find and interact with exhibitors that match their business profile. It allows visitors to post their businessrelated enquiries, view the latest collections, send enquiries and schedule appointments. Managed by experienced representatives, the kiosks are located throughout the halls. COFFEE SHOPS & CAFETERIAS Grab a cup of coffee or a sandwich at any of the 10 coffee shops spread across Halls 1, 5 and 6 operated by Barista Lavazza, Di Bella and Moshe s. Additionally, the cafeterias located near Hall 2, 3 and 6 provide a delicious spread of vegetarian food, including meals for members of the Jain community. BUSINESS CENTRE A full-fledged Business and Communication Centre is set up in Hall 1 for your convenience. Facilities like internet access, meeting & conference rooms, photocopying and fax are available on a chargeable basis. SMOKING LOUNGE Smoking is strictly prohibited in the entire exhibition area. A smoking lounge facility has been provided for exhibitors and visitors. Editorial, Design and Production www.spentamultimedia.com Disclaimer: This publication may not be reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the written consent of Spenta Multimedia.