ABSTRACT 1 Introducing de-coloration. The de-coloration service in the salon, definitions, tools, the action of the products 2 De-Coloration di Elgon: plus della linea e d'uso dei prodotti The other materials supporting the line, the technical sheets for each product and the De-Coloration price lists are available on demand.
1 INTRODUCING DE-COLORATION. THE DE-COLORATION SERVICE IN THE SALON, DEFINITIONS, TOOLS, THE ACTION OF THE PRODUCTS De-coloration is the technical service carried out in the salon to make hair lighter. It is the most widely used service in the salon today, together with cosmetic colouring, and it can give very variable results, in terms of both tone and reflection. Combining colour and de-coloration creates image and style, but the stylist must do it in a professional way. Carrying out colour services and highlights on the same hair is a delicate job in the salon, which must be up to the needs of the customers, and must be performed safely and using non aggressive products. Elgon Professional offers a wide range of de-colouring products which are specific for obtaining the tones and the de-colouration you want, together with technologically safe and advance product lines. WHAT DO WE MEAN BY "DE-COLORATION? Color removal: in professional jargon, de-coloration means lightening natural hair. Decapaggio: this term means the operation of lightening hair previously coloured using a cosmetic colour. Differences between de-coloration and colour removal: De-coloration: working on natural hair, one can foresee the difficulties which will arise depending on the natural tone, on the structure of the hair and on its sensitivity, which is not conditioned by previous servious. Colour removal: with this service, there are other variables involved, besides tone, which are hard to foresee. Generally speaking, a light colour is easier to remove than a dark one, but the sensitivty of the hair may depend on many factors: the kind of dye previously used, the volumes of oxygen, the way the colours were applied, their quality, use, if any, of hood dryers or sprayers. After all these variables have been taken into account, one must deal with the situation carefully and without promising the final outcome beforehand. WHAT ARE THE CLASSIC ELEMENTS OF A DE-COLORATION SERVICE? OIL This alkalinising substance has the power to make oxygen react, freeing it and thus bringing about oxidation. In this case, the bleaching force depends only on the volumes of the oxidant. Pro They offer the advantage of not making the hair sensitive Con Their bleaching power is limited to 1 or 2 tones POWDERS They are a blend of various components, some inert, others with tasks of transport or adhesion, so the product can carry out its job properly in touch with the hair, others are emulsifiers which have been added so as to prevent the product from drying out. The active principle of these products consists of persulphates, synthetic substances having a crystalline appearance and containing active oxygen. These substances blended with peroxide solution and in alkaline ph solutions can develop considerable amounts of oxygen. In this case, oxidation comes about thanks to the oxygen of the peroxide and to the decomposition of the persulphates. Pro Considerable bleaching activity Con More sensitivity making than oils and dehydrating agents for scalp and hair
HOW DO DE-COLORANTS WORK? 1. All de-colouring products have an alkaline ph for two reasons: to open the scales of the hair and in order to allow the product to penetrate into the cortex. 2. The alkaline ph makes the oxygen of the peroxide and of the persulphates react thus developing fresh oxygen which, oxidising the melanin, dissolves it and lightens it. 3. The oxidation thus produced separates the granules of pigment, and - as the process goes on - dissolves the colour molecules. 4. Setting: the decolourant progressively dissolves the pigments, acting deeper and deeper and thus lightening the colour. The more the product is able to release oxygen, the stronger and clearer the bleaching will be; hence the change of the strength of the decolourant from product to product. The outcome of the bleaching is also affected by the kind of hair: for example, a dark colour with many pigments requiring oxidation, or hair which is thick and hard to penetrate may give poorer results with the same bleaching force. This is why, when foressing the outcoming, one must notonly choose the right product, but also take into account all the variables on a case by case basis. As with every other service, the outcome of de-coloration also depends on the concurrence of various factors. The first, as always, consists of the target, or if we prefer, of the desire of the customer. This would seem to be a very simple matter, but actually it is one of the most delicate issues. The desire of the customer is the first element to be collected before starting a colouring service. The target set in lightening, the natural pigmentation of the hair and the working technique lay down the choice of the product to be used.
2 ELGON DE-COLORATION: LINE PLUS AND PRODUCT USE De-coloration means the complete system of bleaching/decoloration products developed in order to respond to the different requirements of bleaching: light, medium and strong. This is the brand of the Pro/Tekh division which brings together the de-coloration products. The De-coloration range products have been designed to afford the best performance of the colour service by the stylist. The following belong to De-coloration: _ Kit Blonde Oil _ Ammonia Free _ White Bleach _ Blu Bleach _ Blueberry Bleach _ Superbleach _ 6.Pasta The technical features of each of these products are provided together with the colour services which can be made and the main differences, depending on the goals of the stylist. MISSION TARGET NEED COMPOSITION Bleach Professionals Getting every kind of lightening tone respecting the structure of the hair and the sensitivity of the scalp 7 products (one of them in the Kit) Optimising the colour service through de-coloration LINE PLUS Different formats for each need of use by the stylist Bio-dynamic and ammonia free formulations Presence of conditioning substances to protect and keep the hair hydrated, during the setting time Anti-yellow reflections Anti-orange reflections User friendly products BENCHMARKING These are "classic" products in the salon life. Every company in the business produces de-coloring substances. The unexpert client would have to evaluate the aggressiveness of the product against its bleaching power. Elgon offers a range of products intended to satisfy the different needs of the salon in the field of bleaching, with specific products
KIT BLONDE OIL Cosmetic bleaching oil treatment for light bleaching on natural hair and on coloured hair (1-2 tones). It consists of emulsifying and conditioning products and alkalininsing substances. It is a very delicate product, ideal for the stylist who is looking for specific solutions or who want to carry out small colour changes in conditions of absolute safety. Easy to apply, Kit Blonde Oil allows you to: _ obtain natural bleaching without committing oneself to an oxidation colour _ create light and natural bleaches on natural hair _ remove haloes and stripes on cosmetic colours _ bring out copper and red colours on dark natural backgrounds _ soften the contrast of natural re-growth on hair with highlights COMPONENTS Alkalining blend Moisturizing components Cationic surface active agents Gel texture ACTIONS Light bleaching action Hair conditioner, prevents burning feeling Adheres perfectly to the hair Easy application, does not drip Preparation: Mix 40 ml of Blonde Oil in a non metal container with 80 ml of its specific activator, contained in the kit. Setting: The setting time lasts between 15 and 25 minutes, depending on the bleach you want. Using a heat source, the bleaching action will be quicker. When to use it: 1. To lighten natural hair: a) all over the hair, b) in specific areas to make sun effects. Procedure: Apply the mixed Blonde Oil on dry, unwashed hair. The setting time lasts between 10 and 20 minutes to lighten by 1 tone, and 20 to 30 minutes to lighten by 2 tones, depending on the background. Check the level of bleach reached every 5 minutes. Using a heat source will cut down the setting time and slightly increase the bleaching effect. Once the bleaching level you wanted has been reached, rinse thoroughly and shampoo. The Kit Blonde Oil has been designed to obtain small colour changes on natural or coloured hair. The delicacy of the formula means the operator can feel completely relaxed during the setting time. It creates shaded off effects, without stripes. Its bleaching effect can be different, depending on the natural or cosmetically coloured base it is applied on. On coloured hair, the bleaching effect will be more delicate. 2. To remove stripes and colour stains: Apply Blonde Oil on the areas with colour overload to dry and unwashed hair. Let it set for 15 to 25 minutes and check every 5 minutes. Do not massage. Once you have reached the bleach level you want, rinse thoroughly and apply the chosen colour on dried hair.
3. To bring out the reflection in red and copper colour: apply Kit Blonde Oil on dry hair, only on the lengths, excluding the roots. Massage carefully, let set for 10 to 20 minutes, check regularly every 5 minutes. Once the desired bleach has been reached, rinse thoroughly and apply the colour you want on the dried hair. 4. To smooth out natural re-growths on hair with méches: apply KIt Blonde Oil on dry, unwasher hair. Be careful to treat the re-growth only. Do not massage. Let it set for 10 to 20 minutes to bleach by 1 tone, 20 to 30 minutes to bleach by 2 tones. Check regularly every 5 minutes. Once the desired bleach has been reached, rinse thoroughly, wash with Moisture Shampoo Mood and start styling. Suggestions: _ Shake the bottle well before using it. _ Always make a preliminary test on a lock of hair. _ Do not use the bonnet in order not to make haloes or spots. _ Using heat sources will cut down the setting time. _ Mix Blond Oil carefully with Oxidant Cream so as to create a homogeneous, gelatinous and non liquid compound. _ Isolate the face contour using cotton without covering the hair roots. _ Check the bleaching level regularly, so as to avoid differences between the roots and the lengths. _ Do not use on recently permed hair. Wait at least one week. _ Do not apply on an irritated scalp or on a scalp affected by pathologies (eczema or psoriasis).
AMMONIA FREE Ammonia free, de-colouring powder, especially suited for bleaching coloured or sensitive hair. It does not swell and it does not get chalky during setting, it leaves the hair in a good state. Suitable for every bleaching technique: méches, highlights, etc. Apply on dry and unwashed hair. It has a gradual bleaching action. Bleaches up to 6 tones. Preparation is easy and quick. The dilution ratio is 40 grams of de-colouring powder (1 measure) to 80 ml of Oxidant Cream at 10-20 - 30 volumes. COMPONENTS Balanced mix of oxidising powders Silex derivates Emulsifying stearates Surface active agents FURTHER PLUS Ammonia free Non invasive Delicate ACTIONS They bleach natural colour and remove cosmetic colour Limit the development of powders Protect scalp and hair Facilitate removal and washing ACTIONS Smoother impact on the hair Leaves the hair in good condition Suitable to every technique of bleaching and colour removal Mixing, doses, indicative setting time for the greatest bleaching AMONIA FREE Volumes BLEACHING Tones MAXIMUM SETTING Time 1 measure equal to 40 grams 80 ml 10-20 - 30 volumes Up to 6 tones 60 minutes Advice and warnings: _ It contains persulphates. Avoid contact with the eyes. In case of contact, rinse immediately and thoroughly with water. _ Keep out of the reach of children. _ While mixing, do not raise powders. _ Use proper gloves throughout the handling phases: preparation, application, washing. _ In case of first application, in contact with the scalp, make the test touch 48 hours before application. _ Do not use to bleach eyelashes, eyebrows, beard or moustache. _ Do not apply on an irritated scalp or on a scalp affected by pathologies (eczema or psoriasis).
WHITE BLEACH Universal, non volatile white de-colouring agent. Reduces annoyance due to excess powderiness. Does not swell or become chalky during setting and leaves the hair in excellent condition, suitable for every bleaching technique: complete de-colouring, mèches, highlights, etc. Apply on unwashed and dry hair. After mixing with hydrogen peroxide, the de-colourant stays active for about 60 minutes. Preparation is easy and quick. The dilution ratio is 40 grams of de-colouring powder (1 measure) to 80 ml of Oxidant Cream at 10-20 - 30 volumes. COMPONENTS Balanced mix of oxidising powders Cationic compounds Silex derivates Emulsifying stearates Surface active agents ACTIONS They bleach natural colour and remove cosmetic colour Guarantee perfect adhesion to the hair Limit the development of powders Protect scalp and hair Facilitate removal and washing Mixing, doses, indicative setting time for the greatest bleaching. WHITE BLEACH Volumes BLEACHING Tones MAXIMUM SETTING Time 1 measure equal to 40 grams 80 ml 30 volumes Up to 6 tones 60 minutes
BLU BLEACH Blue de-colouring powder, not powdery, with lavender bouquet. It reduces annoyance due to excessively volatile powder. With a high bleaching power, up to 7 tones. The blue pigment eliminates the residues of natural pigment which appear as yellow shades on the bleached background. It leaves the hair in a good state, it does not swell and it does not get chalky during setting. The ideal for contrasting yellow-orange reflections of natural pigmentation. To get the utmost bleaching effect without warm reflections. Especially suitable for méches, highlights, contrasts, etc. Use in combination with Easy Méches Elgon, aluminium or other techniques. Preparation is easy and quick. The dilution ratio is 40 grams of de-colouring powder (1 measure) with 80 ml of Oxidant Cream at 10-20 - 30 volumes. COMPONENTS Balanced mix of oxidising powders Cationic compounds Silex derivates Emulsifying stearates Surface active agents Blue pigment Slight lavender bouquet ACTIONS They bleach natural and cosmetic colour Guarantee adhesion to the hair Limit the development of powders Emulsifiers, protect scalp and hair Facilitate removal and washing Limits the yellow reflections of the de-coloured background Pleasant for the technician and the client Mixing, doses, indicative setting time for the greatest bleaching. BLU BLEACH Volumes BLEACHING Tones MAXIMUM SETTING Time 1 measure equal to 40 grams 80 ml 10-20 - 30 volumes Up to 7 tones 60 minutes
BLUEBERRY BLEACH De-colouring powder with purple non powdery pigment, with myrtle bouquet. It reduces annoyance due to excessively volatile powder. With a high bleaching power, up to 7 tones. The purple pigment has an anti-yellow effect during the bleaching, it eliminates the residues of natural pigment which appear in yellow streaks on the bleached background. It leaves the hair in a good state, it does not swell and it does not get chalky during setting. Product plus: _ Purple colour (it stays purple throughout the setting time) _ Good, quick and easy mix _ Dust free _ The mix has a good viscosity, does not solidify and does not swell during setting _ Bleaching is quick, easy to apply _ The ideal for getting the utmost bleaching effect with a neutral blonde outcome _ Bleaching up to 7 tones _ Format in 500 g cup It can be used with the following techniques: foil, easy méches 10-20 volumes, free hand, spatula etc. 20-30 volumes. Mixing, doses, indicative setting time for the greatest bleaching. BLUEBERRY BLEACH Volumes BLEACHING Tones MAXIMUM SETTING Time 1 measure equal to 40 grams 80 ml 10-20 - 30 volumes Up to 7 tones 60 minutes SUPERBLEACH This is a white extra-light powder, to get the most bleach with the shortest setting time. The ideal for short highlight services. How to use it: use it 1 to 2 like every other de-colourant. Plus: cuts down bleaching time.
6.PASTA It is an innovative bleaching paste that offers an alternative to powder bleaching products guaranteeing a high lifting power. Benefits of the paste application and products advantages: - easy to mix and possibility to measure the fluidity of the compound obtaining custom-made xblondes, adapting the fluidity of the mix to the desired work technique. - absolute lack of volatile powder - in spite of a low amount of ammonia, the risk of irritation is much lower than with other powder xcolorants - easy to use with any bleaching technique - thanks to the creamy texture the application is easier and the product adheres better to the hair fiber - maximum protection of the hair lipidic component - stable texture because it does not swell and dry out - the product remains effective and active during the whole application - the max. desired lifting is reached in 40 min. - more safety during mixing and application for the hairstylist (it does not liberate dust because it is xa cream); no inhalation risk. Advantages for the hairstylist: - paste bleaching is suitable for those customers that do not trust powder bleaching, because they xconsider it aggressive to hair - customer loyalty with special jobs (the paste allows more precision during the application) and xpossibility to perform more bleachings a year on the same customer thanks to the lower xaggressiveness to the hair fiber - no fuss for the colorist during mixing and application - adjustability of the product to the work technique. Results: - Hair results shinier and silkier - Thank to the creamy component with the adding of almond oil, the hair fiber is less affected by xthe aggression of persulphates and peroxide - 6 tones lifting equal to the best powder bleachers. Dilution: the product is activated only mixed with OXI DANT CREAM, 20/30/40 VOL. ALL-OVER APPLICATION OR STREAKS IN FOILS STREAKS WITH COMB Volumes Dilution Developing Times 20 /30 30/40 1:1 1:2-1:3* 1:1 1:2-1:3* 20 to 40 min 40 min max * dilution depending on density and desired lifting. * a high dilution slightly reduces the lifting performance.
DO NOT EXCEED the recommended developing times, DO NOT USE heat sources, DO NOT COVER hair with caps and DO NOT gather or tie hair. Lifting Tones: 6 Instructions for use: - take out the necessary amount of bleaching paste (20 to 40g) - add the necessary amount of the specific OXI-CREAM (free dilution, depending on the density xand desired lifting, 1+1 to 1+3) - mix using a spatula (non metallic) or a brush until a smooth and even cream is obtained. Apply xcarefully on the hair avoiding the contact with the scalp - let is develop at room temperature for max. 40 minutes until the desired lifting is achieved - rinse abundantly the hair and finish with a delicate shampoo - do not mix with other powder bleachers
COMPARISON AMONG BLEACHING PRODUCTS Ammonia Free Bleaches up to 6 tones Gradual bleach Medium strong bleaches. On coloured and treated structures White Bleach Bleaches up to 6 tones Fast bleach For strong bleaches Blue Bleach Bleaches up to 7 tones Ultra-fast bleach For strong bleaches and to contrast yellow-orange pigmentation Blueberry Bleach Bleaches up to 7 tones Fast bleach For strong bleaches and to contrast yellow pigmentation Superbleach Bleaches up to 7 tones Ultra-fast bleach For extra-light highlights, to cut down bleaching time. The ideal for partial effects 6.Pasta Lifts up to 6 tones More safety Ideal for precision effects Note. The bleaching effect is affected by the natural or cosmetically coloured background colour and by the hair structure. Produced by: PIDIELLE SRL Via Bergamina, 7-20014 Nerviano (MI) - Italy Tel. +39 0331 580166 Fax +39 0331 415677 www.elgoncosmetic.it / elgon@elgoncosmetic.it