High Oil Innovations Formulating with high levels of oils, why and how? James Hodgkinson November 2015
Why oil?
Why oil? Most popular claims in skincare Long Lasting Ethical - Animal Brightening / Illuminating* For Sensitive Skin Paraben Free Vitamin / Mineral Fortified 16.43% 16.62% 16.73% 18.73% 21.88% 21.99% Time / Speed 30.22% Dermatologically Tested 38.17% Botanical / Herbal Moisturising / Hydrating 55.87% 57.27% Source Mintel GNPD. Feb 15-July 15
Why oil? Most popular claims in hair care Ethical / Green Packaging Dermatologically Tested Paraben Free Vitamin / Mineral Fortified Time / Speed Moisturising / Hydrating Long-Lasting Damaged Hair 10.28% 11.67% 16.10% 18.91% 21.14% 21.29% 23.40% 23.78% Brightening / Illuminating Botanical / Herbal 47.41% 51.58% Source Mintel GNPD. Feb 15-July 15
Why oil? They provide many functions Emollients Natural / Green UV Filters Solvents Fragrances Moisturisers Preservatives Conditioners
Why high oil?
Why high oil? The higher the concentration the greater the impact Greater emolliency Longer lasting moisturisation Stronger marketing claims More noticeable sensory properties Ability to create unique applications
Which oils?
Which oils? 30.00% Shea Butter Mineral Oil 25.00% 20.00% Sunflower Oil Jojoba Oil Petrolatum 15.00% Sweet Almond Oil Olive Oil 10.00% 5.00% Coconut Oil Soybean Oil Argan Oil 0.00% 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Source Mintel August 2015
Which oils? 30.00% 25.00% Mineral Oil 20.00% 15.00% 10.00% Petrolatum 5.00% 0.00% 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Source Mintel August 2015
Which oils? 30.00% Shea Butter 25.00% Sunflower Oil Jojoba Oil 20.00% 15.00% Sweet Almond Oil Olive Oil Coconut Oil 10.00% Soybean Oil 5.00% Argan Oil 0.00% 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Source Mintel August 2015
What about innovation?
What about innovation? Niche applications based on oils are becoming more prominent. Including: Cleansing oils Cleansing conditioners Moisturising body wash Body scrubs
What about innovation? 60.0% Use of oils in personal care 50.0% Skincare 40.0% 30.0% 20.0% 10.0% Hair Care Colour Cosm. Soap and Bath 0.0% 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Source Mintel August 2015
What about innovation? 21.0% 19.0% Use of oils in personal care Hair Care 17.0% 15.0% 13.0% 11.0% Colour Cosm. Soap and Bath 9.0% 7.0% 5.0% 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Source Mintel August 2015
In the market
Formulating with oils
Oils in combination with Hair Conditioning Agents Actives UV Filters Rheology Modifiers Surfactants Emulsifiers
Formulations Body and Face Cleansing Oil High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash Cleansing Hair Conditioner Face Cleansing Lotion High Oil Cream 82% Oil 50% Oil 50% Oil 48% Oil 20% Oil
Body and Face Cleansing Oil Clear oil based formulation Foams and lathers during application Could be used in shower or as a hand / face cleanser Moisturising Leaves the skin feeling soft and nourished
Body and Face Cleansing Oil 82% Total Oil DFL 0051 Trade Name INCI Function Tegosoft XC Phenoxyethyl Ester Oil AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus Oil Stepan-Mild GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate Surfactant Tego Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant Viamerine 2500 Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic polyglyceride Oil based active Givaudan Honey Glaze Parfum Fragrance
High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash Used to moisturise the skin during showering Time saving Foams and lathers on application Leaves the skin feeling soft without being greasy Could be used as a highly moisturising hand or face wash
High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash 50% Total Oil - DFL 0023 Trade Name INCI Function Water Aqua - Rewopol SB F 12 P Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Surfactant Tego Betain F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Surfactant Surfac G995V Glycerin Humectant AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Oil Oil Tego Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant/Emulsifier Saliguard COS Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorophenesin Preservative Givaudan Raspberry Sorbet Parfum Fragrance
Cleansing Hair Conditioner Provides 2 in 1 cleaning and conditioning Has a conditioner like appearance Ideal for ethnic hair cleaning Developed by
Cleansing Hair Conditioner 50% Total Oil - DFL 0068 Trade Name INCI Function Water Aqua - Surfacare PQ10 Polyquaternium 10 Conditioner Tego Betain F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Surfactant Surfac G995V Glycerin Humectant STEOL CS 230 HA Sodium Laureth Sulfate Surfactant AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Oil Oil VARISOFT EQ 100 Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate Conditioner Tego Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant/Emulsifier Saliguard COS Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorophenesin Preservative Givaudan Cherry Glow Parfum Fragrance
Face Cleansing Lotion Simple emulsion Could be used as mild daily face wash or for removing make up Uses surfactants in place of traditional emulsifiers to aid cleansing
Face Cleansing Lotion 48% Total Oil - DFL 0054 Trade Name INCI Function Water Aqua - Stepan-Mild GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate Emulsifier Surfacare L30 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Emulsifier AAK Olive Oil Olea Europaea Oil Oil Givaudan Blueberry Fizz Parfum Fragrance Saliguard CGZ Caprylyl Glycol, 1, 3 Propane Diol Preservative
High Oil Cream Carbopol stabilised emulsion Could be used as a day or night cream Can be used as a stable base for addition of active cosmetic ingredients
High Oil Cream 20% Total Oil - DFL 0060 Trade Name INCI Function Water Aqua - Carbopol Ultrez 20 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Emulsion Stabiliser Bio-terge AS- 40 HA SB Sodium C14-16 olefin sulphonate Emulsifier Tego Betain P50 C Cocamidopropyl betaine Emulsifier Glucam E-10 Methyl Gluceth-10 Humectant Surfac G995V Glycerine Humectant Surfac TELA99 Triethanolamine ph adjuster AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Oil Oil Schercemol NGDO Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate Oil AAK Olive Oil Olea Europaea Oil Oil Saliguard CGZ Caprylyl Glycol, 1,3 Propane Diol Preservative Tego Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Emulsifier Givaudan Soothing 71 Parfum Fragrance
Oils Wide range of exotic & functional oils Natural Oils Ubuntu African Oils Viatenza Water Dispersible
Key Technologies
Tego Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Oil soluble anionic surfactant Offers good foaming properties even in high oil formulations Provides excellent emulsion stability Recommended addition 5 20%
Carbopol Ultrez 20 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Provides excellent thickening and oil suspension Electrolyte stable Non-tacky skin feel Provides exceptional emulsion stability Recommended addition 0.2 0.5% Easy to disperse polymer
Stepan-Mild GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate Low HLB non-ionic surfactant Thickener and foam enhancer Alternative to Cocamide DEA Ability to suspend without the need for polymers Excellent solubiliser
Viamerine Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride Cost effective active material Clinically proven antiageing and moisturising benefits Naturally derived Oil soluble Skin image analyser before and 1hr after 5% Viamerine application
In Conclusion
In Conclusion Oils are widely used for their versatile properties Natural oils are gradually replacing synthetics Hair and cleansing are the fasting growing market segment for oil use
In Conclusion Niche applications using oils are becoming more prominent Ingredient manufacturers have developed new technologies specifically for use in combination with oils Formulating with a high oil phase has never been easier!
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