SUSTAINABLE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT: LIFE CYCLE REPORT

SUSTAINABLE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT: LIFE CYCLE REPORT 1

TABLE OF CONTENT INTRODUCTION 3 CURRENT GARMENT S LIFE CYCLE 4 KEY SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES 4 FIBRE 4 TEXTILE PRODUCTION 5 DESIGN 6 MANUFACTURE 7 DISTRIBUTION 7 RETAIL 8 USE-PHASE 8 NEW GARMENT DESIGN 9 NEW GARMENT S LIFE CYCLE 9 ALTERNATIVES 10 FIBRE 10 TEXTILE PRODUCTION 11 DESIGN 11 MANUFACTURE 13 DISTRIBUTION 13 RETAIL 14 END OF USE 14 CONCLUSION 14 BIBLIOGRAPHY 15 2

INTRODUCTION Sustainable Development is development which meets the needs of current generations without compromising the ability to future generations to meet their own needs (Brundtland 1987). It is about the three Ps; People, Planet and Profit, also known as the triple bottom line of social, environmental and financial. A sustainable business model is about finding an equilibrium among these three divisions; ensuring that the business makes a profit while looking after their people and the planet. Karen Millen, born and bred in England, is a global brand known for its elevated and tailored approach to fashion creating investment pieces that will go the distance (Karen Millen 2015). It is currently in over 65 countries across six continents and the brand continues to grow. With growing concerns in sustainability issues, Karen Millen has decided to launch a sustainability range with its Spring / Summer 2016 collection. The introduction of this range is to educate and increase awareness of sustainability issues amongst their current clientele as well as attract new eco-friendly customers who pro sustainability. Karen Millen aims to build a more sustainable business model that will lead to a long-term change within the business as well as the industry. Through redeveloping some of the current designs, Karen Millen will be able to stay true to its brand and heritage while creating positive change and awareness to sustainability issues in the fashion and textile industry. This report will examine the life cycle of the Studded Pocket T-Shirt from Spring/ Summer 15 and raise the key sustainability issues inherent in all stages of the garment s life cycle. It will then redevelop the garment, proposing alternatives that address the sustainability issues identified and map a cradle to cradle life cycle design for this heritage and iconic T-Shirt. Karen Millen Studded Pocket T-Shirt UK 8 Spring / Summer 2015 3

CURRENT GARMENT S LIFE CYCLE The current garment s life-cycle analysis, as seen in the diagram below, is a cradle-to-grave system. It describes the entire life of the garment from fibre (cradle) up to the point of disposal (grave). There are key sustainability issues in each of the life cycle stages. The report will discuss the issues in the fashion and textile industry at large with a specific focus on this garment. MANUFACTURING DISTRIBUTION DESIGN RETAIL TEXTILE PRODUCTION USE PHASE FIBRE CRADLE LANDFILL GRAVE KEY SUSTAINABILITY ISSUES FIBRE: 100% Viscose Viscose is a regenerated fibre made from wood pulp, cotton linters or bamboo. The type of viscose is unclear on the care label. Since it is the more common and environmentally friendly, bamboo will be used for the purpose of this report. Marketed as an eco-green-sustainable fibre bamboo is able to grow to its maximum height in about 3 months and reaching maturity in 3 to 4 years without fertilizers or pesticides (Organic Exchange 2011). Due to the cellulosic nature, bamboo viscose is also claimed as biodegradable and may seem more sustainable. However, there is a lack of transparency in its supply chain (Rose 2008) and deforestation is becoming an increased issue (Green Choices 2015). Forests and subsistence farmers are cleared to make way for bamboo or pulpwood plantations (Green Choices 2015) resulting in sustainability issues such as pollution through bush fire and reducing farming job opportunities. 4

The manufacturing process of viscose also requires hazardous chemicals such as caustic soda and sulphuric acid to treat the wood pulp (Kadolph & Langford 2002). Unless carefully controlled, this process released toxic compounds that pollute the air and water which is environmentally damaging (Dibidiakova & Timmerman 2014). TEXTILE PRODUCTION: Fibre-dyed Jersey Weft Knit Throughout the entire life cycle in textile manufacturing, extensive amount of natural resources such as water, oil and land are used. The industry at large undergoes many processes that are environmentally damaging. The production process depletes the earth s natural resources and pollutes the environment with chemicals. Below are some of the statistics: Global textile industry uses 378 billion litres of water each year (Clay 2004). Up to 20 percent of the total industrial water pollution is contributed by textile dyeing and treatment (World Bank 2011). Fuel consumption in textile mills is almost equivalent to water used causing the textile industry to be one of the world s major energy users (Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Vol 37 2012). The global textile industry contributes up to 10 percent of the total carbon impact and uses up to 1 trillion kilowatt hours every year (Textile Exchange 2010). Estimated 8000 different synthetic chemicals are used in the textile manufacturing process (Earth Pledge). Many industry chemicals are persistent bio-accumulative chemicals which can be toxic to the aquatic environment (Toxic Threads Greenpeace 2012). Statistics taken from Redress 2014 This fabric is dyed at the fibre stage before being produced to yarns and then knitted into textile. Dyeing at the fibre stage may seem to be more sustainable as it requires lesser procedures. However, the most common solvents used in fibre dyeing is highly toxic and not sustainable for the environment (Muthu 2014). The discharge of dyes in water can also affect the aesthetic quality and transparency of water bodies leading to damages to the aquatic environment (Chequer et al. 2013). In addition, fibre dyeing results in a limited end use of the coloured fabric. If the colour does not sell or was dyed incorrectly, the entire batch of filament yarns or the final textile essentially 5

goes into landfill as textile waste. Another sustainability issue is human rights issue. The fashion and textile industry require large amount of man-power and hours of work. In order to keep the cost low, there are sweatshops operating in less developed countries such as China, India and Bangladesh where workers are made to work long hours, with little or no breaks and low pay (War on Want 2015). DESIGN: Karen Millen s 11 step design process Karen Millen is obsessed with quality and design. Without a Buying department, designs are done in-house which is our biggest point of difference (Karen Millen Australia 2014). Karen Millen follows an eleven step design process; 1. Design, 2. Fabric selection, 3. Trim selection, 4. Pattern development, 5. Toile, 6. Cutting, 7. Machinists, 8. Selection, 9. The fit process, 10. Grading and 11. Manufacture. Analysing each of the steps, several processes do raise sustainability issues. Trim Selection The trim selection of metal studs on the pocket raises sustainability issues as the metal studs are made from brass, a mixture of zinc and copper. Making brass from new copper and zinc is wasteful of raw material and depleting the Earth s natural resources. Fortunately, the brass industry globally is using recycled brass scrap to manufacture (European Copper Institute 2015). Despite of its sustainable nature, Karen Millen s customers are usually uninformed and uneducated, thus many will throw the T-shirt into the landfill when it reaches its end of life. Design/ Printing Resist printing is used to print the logo and sizing on the inside of the shirt. Machineries used in this process require substantial amount of energy. As Karen Millen is not known for its sustainability or eco-friendly values, it is assumed that the dye used for printing is toxic to the environment. Therefore, although viscose is biodegradable, incorrect disposal of the T-shirt may impact the environment negatively as it decomposes and integrates back to the Earth. Toile In addition, toile also raises sustainable issue as it is often made in calico or muslin (Karen Millen 2015). Toile helps designer visualise the final product to ensure that design is at its finest. However, calico or muslin is a fabric made from unbleached cotton. Cotton is highly unsustainable as it requires large amount of water, land and pesticides (Kadolph & Langford 2002). 6

Thread Another important element is the thread used in seams. A mix blend of polyester / cotton thread is commonly used for 100% viscose products. Polyester and cotton are the two dominant fibres that pollute the environment (Lee 2009). Polyester is sourced from oil while cotton requires a large amount of water and pesticides for farming. Polyester / cotton thread is thus damaging to the environment. As it can not be recycled, the T-shirt needs to be thrown to the landfill after use despite the biodegradable nature of viscose. Pattern Making Most pattern making processes result in an average of 15% of textile waste (Redress 2013). Textile waste is unsustainable as both natural and human labour resources invested in the textile production process also go to waste. Since demand on natural resources is high for the process, textile waste poses a threat to the earth s limited resources. MANUFACTURE: Made in China A key sustainable issue arises with the country of origin, made in China, as there are countless of sweatshops in China. As a brand, Karen Millen does not show any concern in sustainability issues and is not transparent with its supply chain. As mentioned earlier, sweatshops are a major concern in the fashion and textile industry especially in less developed countries. Sustainability is related not only with environmental protection but also human rights. Thus, manufacturing in sweatshops is unacceptable in a sustainable business model. The manufacturing process also requires large amount of energy in the form of electricity. Brown coal used to generate electricity released many pollutants that contribute to climate change and other health problems (Tantaro 2010). Care labels, which are sown on at the manufacturing process, are compulsory in any garment sold in Australia. The care label for the T-shirt is a direct print on satin polyester ribbon. As mentioned earlier, both dye and polyester raise key sustainable issues such as the release of pollutants that are harmful to the planet. DISTRIBUTION: China - UK Warehouse - Australia Dock - Australia Warehouse - Retail Store The distribution of fashion products is complex and dynamic as fashion has a short life cycle (Shen 2014). There are several unnecessary distribution channels before the stock arrives into store. With new stock entering into the retail stores every two weeks at Karen Millen, 7

transportations by air and land is an essential element in the distribution phase. Therefore, incurring carbon emission associated with the fashion industry is inevitable especially given its global dimensions in terms of both manufacturing plant locations and demand markets (Shen 2014). Within the distribution phase, packaging is an important element to consider. The T-Shirt was packaged in a plastic sheet with tissue protecting the garment. It was distributed to the Emporium store in a cardboard box with other stock. Large amount of plastic sheets and tissue go into the landfill as they are not recyclable resulting in a key sustainability issue. The cardboard boxes go into the shared recycled bin in the basement. RETAIL: Emporium, Melbourne The retail sector is one of the largest users of resources and producers of waste (NRA 2015). To maintain a constant internal temperature in a shopping centre, energy, mainly from nonrenewable and greenhouse gas intensive sources, is used (Mate 2012). Large amount of water is also needed to ensure the functionality of a shopping centre. In addition, sustainability is also concerned about profit. Emporium, although is located in the heart of Melbourne, has become a walk-through shopping centre for people. The stores in Emporium are relatively high-end and expensive. Thus, the centre are generally quiet during the week. This means that the business may not be sustainable as it is unable to generate revenue and profit. USE-PHASE: Wearing and washing the product Sustainability issues also arise in the use of domestic washing machines. Currently, fresh water supplies are under pressure and most households in Australia do not have access to rainwater or any alternative water supply (Tantaro 2010). In addition to the water demands, the detergent used and grey water release is also a rising concern. This may affect plant, human and animal life negatively as the detergents contain toxic ingredients that is harmful to them (Tantaro 2010). 8

NEW GARMENT DESIGN This T-shirt poses many key sustainability issues that could be improved or avoided. Below is a suggested garment redevelopment proposing alternatives that address the issues identified in the current garment s life cycle. This T-shirt is a heritage Karen Millen piece so the design and pattern of the garment will be kept. To stay on trend for Spring / Summer 2016, the colour will be redeveloped into a denim blue hue. The sustainability aspect will be introduced through changes made in the core of the garment such as fibre, threads and trims used. Other aspects that will be discussed are textile and garment manufacturing process and garment distribution channel. DETAILS: Material: 100% Lyocell Fibre Thread: 100% Organic Cotton Trim: Recycled brass in light rose gold colour Country of Origin: Made in China NEW GARMENT S LIFE CYCLE The suggested new garment s life cycle is a cradle-to-cradle model (McDonough 2003) which takes a holistic economic, environmental and social framework. The diagram shows a closed loop cycle. It is a system that is not only efficient but also waste free. Cradle-to-cradle is more than just recycling, it offers a framework in which the effective, regenerative cycles of nature provide models for wholly positive human designs (McDonough 2003). It is essentially redesigning to take waste out of the system and recycling or upcycling used materials. This report will provide alternatives, both in materials and processes, that address the issues identified above to create a cradle-to-cradle product design that is more sustainable for the launch of this new collection. 9

METAL STUD PURSE ALTERNATIVES FIBRE: Tencel 100% Lyocell Fibre Lyocell s most common trademark is Tencel. Tencel is a closed loop production process and is made from FSC-Certified eucalyptus. Eucalyptus has a high growth rate and requires little water and few pesticides to thrive (H&M 2015). Tencel is biodegradable, which means that it can be thrown into the backyard when it reaches the end of life (Donatelli 2013). 10

Holding similar characteristics of viscose such as drapability, silk-like and versatile, Tencel, a cellulose fibre obtained by an organic solvent spinning process (Fibre Source 2015), is a more sustainable substitute for viscose. Unlike the manufacturing process of viscose, Lyocell manufacturing uses organic chemicals during the process and no cellulose derivative is released from it (Chavan & Patra 2004). The process also involves less steps and chemicals, using mostly recyclable solvent and water (Chavan & Patra 2004). Lyocell is also a more cost effectively option; the production process uses less time, water and energy than viscose manufacturing (Chavan & Patra 2004). Ultimately, Tencel is a more sustainable option with regards to the triple bottom line. TEXTILE PRODUCTION: Yarn-dyed Jersey Weft Knit Lyocell fibres do not need to be bleached as it has a pure white colour with a soft and silky texture (Donatelli 2013). This means that it is also highly absorbent to dyes resulting in brighter colour dye and quicker dyeing process (Donatelli 2013). Due to this, it is feasible to dye at the yarn stage of the textile production instead of the fibre stage. This increases the flexibility of the final fabric and gives room for mistake which essentially reduces waste. As mentioned earlier, the textile industry has massive human rights sustainability issue with many sweatshops in less developed country. Karen Millen, thus, aims to ensure that the textiles used are purchased from suppliers who are fair trade and transparent in their supply chain. In addition, Karen Millen will employ textile manufacturers who have environmental management certification as such companies have a more sustainable production chain (Business Victoria 2014). DESIGN: There are several sustainability issues in this life cycle stage. The new design remains quality obsessed and design driven using alternative methods and materials that will produce similar end results. There will also be an added innovation that upcycles a section of the garment when it reaches its end life. Trim Selection In order to keep the design of the T-shirt, the trim selection remains unchanged. Brass, as mentioned earlier, has a sustainable nature. Both copper and zinc are durable and recyclable. Karen Millen aims to increase client s awareness in recycling brass by training their staff and including an informative statement on recycling brass on the care label. This will therefore remind clients to recycle the brass and ensure that the metal studs do not go to landfill. 11

Design / Printing As Lyocell fibre is cellulose in nature and highly absorbent, natural dyes that are biodegradable can be used to print the logo and sizing on the inside of the shirt. This ensures that the entire product is biodegradable and safe to throw when it has reached its end of use. Toile This process in the design stage is highly unsustainable as it uses large amount of calico and muslin. To replace this process, it is suggested that Karen Millen uses a Pattern Design Software, Optitex, to draft and edit the design. This software provides an exact replica of the design, its drapability and texture, without actually creating the design (Optitex 2014). By using the software, it eliminates the use of calico and muslin, which reduces waste that leads to a more sustainable process. Thread Instead of using a mix blend of polyester and cotton, 100% organic cotton threads will be used. While the use of thread may seem like a minor portion, using biodegradable threads are important as it ensures that the product is biodegradable and safe to throw when it reaches its end of life. Pattern Making It is suggested that Karen Millen adopt a zero-waste design approach to cut down on textile waste and the demand on natural resources to manufacture textile. Zero-waste pattern is to use the entire piece of textile by fitting the pieces like a jigsaw puzzle with no textile waste (Redress 2013). While this approach may require a lot of research and time, zero-waste pattern is plausible. As this is a heritage Karen Millen piece, the T-shirt is relaunched every season in a new colour. This means once the zero-waste pattern is created, the pattern can be reused every season. Innovation An additional innovation is upcycling the metal studded pocket into a purse when the T-shirt reaches its end of life. Instead of sewing the pocket directly onto the base T-shirt fabric, the pocket will be attached to the shirt as a purse with the studs in the front and a plain fabric at the back. The top of the purse will not be sown together to maintain the original aesthetic. The back fabric will use a heavier gauge Lyocell knit and have an additional triangular flap that will act as a cover for the purse as well as the mechanism to attach the purse to the base fabric. 12

The triangular flap is then slit to the inside of the T-shirt and sown on. When the T-shirt has reached its end use, the user will be able to easily detach the pocket by unpicking the seam. Please refer to diagram below for illustration. Upcycling to a purse Triangular Flap Slit for metal stud to close the purse Front of pocket with metal studs Back of pocket Final Product MANUFACTURE: There are similar sustainability issues that arise in the textile manufacturing stage. Karen Millen s main manufacturers are in China which may raise many human rights issues. Thus, in order to combat any accusations, Karen Millen should seek to work with credible environmental and social compliances certificated manufacturers. Reputable certifications include ISO 14000/14001, WRAP, GOTS, Oeko-Tex Standard 100, SCS Global and bluesign certification (Clark 2013). Care labelling is an essential aspect of manufacturing and must be included in every garment. An innovative and more sustainable method is to print the care label on the T-shirt instead of having a polyester ribbon care label hanging on the inside of the garment. Since the garment has to go through a printing process for the logo and sizing, care label can be printed at the same time. This reduces double handling and eliminates an entire process. The care label can be printed at the bottom back of the shirt. DISTRIBUTION: China - Retail Store At this stage, transportation by air and land is inevitable. Thus it is recommended that the stock leaves from the China manufacturers to the retail store directly, avoiding the UK and Australia docks and warehouses. This reduces the distribution channel which in turn reduces the carbon foodprint released by aeroplanes and trucks. Product packaging is an essential element in the distribution phase. Large amount of plastic sheets and tissue go to waste in this process. To rectify this, Karen Millen will package the products in recyclable bags which will be given to clients during their purchase to protect their garments. 13

RETAIL: Since sustainability is also concern with profit, it is important to note that making money is of priority in every business. As the shopping centre is facing some challenges with low traffic, Karen Millen has decided to reduce the number of staff working at a given time. This will vary as the business varies. Thus retail staffing will be evaluated regularly. END OF USE: At the end of the product life, there are several disposal and upcycling methods. First, the T-shirt can be thrown into the backyard or recycled as all the materials used are 100% biodegradable. This means that the new garment design is a cradle-to-cradle model where the resources used to produce the garment ultimately return back to the Earth as resources. Second, the pocket of the T-shirt can be upcycled into a purse. Upcycling is the process of using waste materials to create new materials or products of better quality or environmental values. After the life of the purse, the metal studs are recyclable and the fabric can once again be thrown into the backyard or recycled. CONCLUSION This report has given many alternatives that address the key sustainability issues identified in the current garment s life cycle. The proposed redevelopment has a high production cost and resulting in a higher recommended retail price. This may result in a decline in sales on the retail level. Therefore, it is suggested that Karen Millen redevelop its current garment one at the time by modifying the greatest sustainability impact first. This allows Karen Millen to modify their retail price slowly and accordingly. Similar to the H&M Conscious concept, Karen Millen can launch a sustainable collection to raise awareness and attract new clientele. With Karen Millen s global presence, sustainability issues can be made known and rectify, slowly but surely. 14

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