Haircoloring Know client's motivation: Perform a predisposition & preliminary strand test Hair structure is a determining factor: Cortex layer gives strength & elasticity Coarse large diameter = longer processing, lighter color Medium average response Fine faster processing, darker color Porosity ability to absorb moisture & chemicals high porosity colors quickly then fades, test strand Low porosity tight cuticle, resistant Eumelanin pigment for black or brown hair Pheomelanin pigment for blonde or red hair Contributing pigment pigment underneath natural color Overlapping color breakage or looks like roots known as line of demarcation Lightening diffuses natural or artificial color Permanent color/lightener contains: oxidizing agents, alkalizing ingredients Lightening alkaline peroxide breaks up melanin Nov 21 3:46 PM 1
2. Resistant hair presoften for good coverage Presoftening apply 20 volume peroxide to resistant hair 10 20 min. prior to color, opens cuticle Level lightness or darkness of color excluding tone Level system analyzes color: 1 is darkest 10 is lightest Tone warmth or coolness described as warm, neutral or cool Sandy, tan shades natural tones Cool color absorbs light, appears darker Warm tones reflect light, appear lighter Visible light spectrum contains 3 colors we see Blue pure primary color 1st step: determine Natural level use neutral swatches to match natural color part hair in back of crown where it's darkest make a loop with 1/2 in.hair holding it up to light place swatch next to natural color & match when between levels always choose darker Nov 21 3:46 PM 2
BLONDE HIGHLIGHTS WITH DARK ROOTS Nov 29 1:04 PM 3
Jan 4 9:36 AM 4
DO YOU MEAN THIS INTENSITY OF RED? Dec 7 6:12 PM 5
3. Color Law: primary/secondary colors form base colors Primary RED, YELLOW & BLUE Blue, green or violet eliminate warm tones Red/blue bases appear lighter Equal portions of primary colors = black Secondary ORANGE, VIOLET & GREEN Mix equal parts of two primary colors Tertiary blue/green, red/orange, yellow/green, red/violet Mix equal parts of adjacent primary w/secondary color Complementary primary & secondary color opposite each other on color wheel neutralize each other Gray hair challenges: Percentage of gray hair must figure into color formula Level 7 & darker covers gray best concentrated dye color Color on top of color looks darker. Salt & pepper hair: go 2 levels lighter for natural look 80 to 100% gray color in blonde range, more flattering *50% or more gray add ½ ounce of neutral to formula or use color for gray coverage Consultation: 15 min. extra time 1. Adequate lighting a well lit room w/natural lighting 2. Observe client s natural level, tone, intensity 3. Listen to client, desired color & profession 4. Listen what's been done to hair previously 5. Look client s eye color & skin tone 6. Consider amount of gray you need to color Dec 7 5:42 PM 6
DIFFERENT TYPES OF BROWN RED UNDERTONES NEUTRAL DARK BROWN (ASH) Dec 7 5:43 PM 7
4. Scalp analysis open sores, abrasions, scalp disorders or disease Hair analysis texture, porosity and elasticity Client record completely filled out and dated Release statement signed by client for your legal protection and required for malpractice insurance coverage Predisposition test: (patch test) given and recorded 48 hrs. prior to color, determines allergies to aniline haircolor Required by the U.S. Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act 1. Test behind the ear, next to hairline or crease of elbow 2. Cleanse area about the size of a quarter with soap & water 3. Dry the skin 4. Mix small amount of product (teaspoon), follow directions 5. Apply to test area with cotton 6. Record results: positive or negative on client record after 48 hrs. Positive: redness, itching or a rash Negative: no reaction Remember that color applied over color always looks darker. Permanent color is classified as single or double process. Nov 21 3:46 PM 8
IS THIS WHAT YOU HAD IN MIND? Dec 7 6:20 PM 9
5. Temporary color large color molecules coat cuticle layer with FDA certified colors that shampoo out, no chemical change. Lasts shampoo to shampoo. eg. colored shampoos, mousse, rinses, spray on, gels and mascara Semi permanent color gradually fades, no line of demarcation, lasts 4 6 weeks gradually fading. Color molecules stain cuticle layer. Deposit only color. Demi permanent color deposit only hair color, no lift Penetrates hair shaft, requires a patch test 24 hrs. prior Creams, gels and liquid form Semi & demi permanent colors use alkalizing agents other than ammonia but they aren't less damaging Permanent color single process color lightens & deposits Uncolored dye precursors are diffused into hair shaft Dye precursors combine with peroxide to form aniline derivatives. Requires patch test 24 hrs. prior. High lift colors require 40 volume peroxide. Natural haircolor deposit only limited vegetable colors such as Henna from leaves or bark of plants. Interferes with chemical color services. Metallic Dyes Progressive or gradual color buildup, gradually darkens hair with daily application. Contains metal salts & creates a dull appearance. Don't use with other chemicals, hair swells and smokes, like it's boiling from the inside out. hair. Advertised as progressive color for men. Nov 21 3:46 PM 10
DIFFERENT TYPES OF REDS orange red fire red purple red Dec 7 5:54 PM 11
6. Types of haircolor: liquid applied with a tint bottle cream applied with a brush and bowl gel applied with a bottle or brush Hydrogen peroxide developers oxidizing agents combine with oxidizing color to release oxygen that develop color molecules Forms of Peroxide: 1.Dry peroxide tablet or powder form 2.Cream peroxide contains thickeners and conditioners 3.Liquid peroxide no additives, processes faster Strength of Peroxide: 10 volume lifts haircolor 1 level for deposit of color 20 volume lifts up to 2 levels, used most often 30 volume lifts up to 3 levels 40 volume lifts up to 4 levels for maximum lift without bleach Preliminary test strand apply color formula to a strand of hair & develop to determine results and timing. Recommended for all new formulas. Virgin hair no chemical services or damage from elements Single process color lightens & deposits in one step Single process on virgin hair processes fastest at scalp Color retouch apply color to the re growth only Glaze refresh faded ends during a retouch by a applying non ammonia color to mid shaft & ends Nov 21 3:46 PM 12
BLONDE VAIL WITH DARK BROWN TRIANGLE PEEKABOOS Dec 7 6:05 PM 13
7. Toners pastel, delicate, pale color for pre lightened hair creates correct contributing pigment requires patch test 24 48 hrs. prior Double process color: two step process 1. Prelighten then color or tone 2. Presoften then color Hair lightening permanently removes pigment Pigment left in hair contributes to end result of color 3 Types of lightener: 1. Oil bleach on scalp lightener, mildest, lifts 1 2 levels for facial & body hair 2. Cream lighteners on scalp application lifts to level 10 Mix activators w/hydrogen peroxide to increase lift 1 3 dry activators boost lift 3. Powder bleach strongest, off scalp, can irritate scalp or cause abbrasions, lifts to level 10 for foil or cap highlights, special effects Bleach continues to lighten if kept moist Thoroughly shampoo & rinse to stop lightening action Levels level 1 is darkest, level 10 is lightest Stay within 2 levels of natural color for a natural look Decolorizing degrees of lifting, 1 10 Color going lighter apply 1/2 inch off scalp, ¼ inch subpartings up to porous ends Lightener/Bleach apply 1/2 inch off scalp w/1/8 inch subpartings up to porous ends Nov 21 4:03 PM 14
8. Highlights coloring strands of hair lighter Lowlights coloring strands of hair darker Foil technique weave or slice alternate strands of hair, apply lightener, enclose in foil Weaving narrow sections of picked up in a zig zag motion & placed in foil w/lightener Cap technique pull dry strands thru a perforated cap w/hook comb to remove tangles, apply lightener & cover Slicing place a narrow section of hair in foil w/lightener Baliage/free form paint lightener directly on hair, subtle Highlighting shampoo combination of shampoo,color & peroxide, slight change lifts natural or artificial color Fillers equalize porosity & deposit base color Conditioner fillers recondition damaged hair, equalize porosity Color fillers equalize porosity, deposit color Red Hair fastest fading color Color remover removes artificial dark color Soap cap combines left over color & equal parts shampoo adds color to faded hair Nov 21 3:46 PM 15
FOIL WEAVING Dec 7 6:06 PM 16