9 Cosmetic Industry in Figures Whilst the stark statistics show as a rather unspectacular year for the cosmetics industry, we started to see the uncertain economic future and consequently shopping behaviour starting to change and maybe point to future trends. In Great Britain, the value of the market rose year on year.1% to 9.38 billion whilst the actual number of packs purchased dropped 1.2% to 2.6 billion. - 9,379,264-9,373,156.1% Increase This broadly indicated that shoppers, whilst seeking out bargains, didn t use this as an excuse to buy more volume, rather they used their money more wisely and shopped around including moving between a wider range of shops and the internet. Particularly within toiletries, we saw deflation as the grocers took on the discounters (and clawed back some business but at a price). By the end of we were just starting to see inflation creep in, mainly driven by increased costs due to the fall in the value of the pound. Tim Nancholas Strategic Insight Director Home, Health & Beauty, Kantar Worldpanel, April 217 CTPA GB Market Report The report covers a wide range of products and each one tells a slightly different story. Fragrance, for example, whilst seeing a decline in the number of buyers, also saw a value growth of 1% as shoppers purchased more expensive perfumes (we saw volume decline 3.1% year on year). Reviving fragrance as a Christmas gift would further help this market. Colour cosmetics, sometimes seen as an indicator of consumer confidence (which is seeing signs of falling) was the best performing category delivering over 1.64 billion to the British economy, as only the lips sector saw decline whilst the nail products (generally a cheaper treat) saw the best growth. Skincare saw a.8% value decline but this was an improvement from the previous year on year trend. Lip products (with new products being launched) and the men s market picking up were bright spots but body (general purpose) skincare struggled in the face of price deflation. Baby skincare also struggled. s Dec-15 s Dec-16 % Change Fragrance * 1,788,76 1,87,56 1. Fine Female Fragrance 973,338 999,725 2.7 Fine Male Fragrance 538,491 543,823 1. Mass Female Fragrance 133,812 13,482-2.5 Mass Male Fragrance 16,681 91,428-14.3 Fine Unisex Fragrance 32,749 38,894 18.8 Mass Unisex Fragrance 3,689 3,154-14.5 * includes gift packs/coffrets Colour Cosmetics * 1,58,373 1,643,41 4. Face 642,494 669,771 4.2 Lips 265,43 258,876-2.5 Eyes 465,37 49,377 5.4 Nails 27,412 224,17 8. * includes gift packs/coffrets Skincare 2,177,889 2,16,32 -.8 Prestige Skincare Total inc Gift Packs 587,421 556,635-5.2 Face Care Non-medicated 889,262 91,943 1.4 Face Care Medicated 91,684 9,381-1.4 Face Care Male 72,992 74,968 2.7 Hand Care 53,271 52,546-1.4 Body Creams & Lotions 177,791 171,139-3.7 Baby Care Products 16,698 15,513-7.1 Lipsalves 51,2 56,285 9.9 Sun Preparations 237,57 24,91 1.4 28
CTPA Annual Report s Dec-15 s Dec-16 % Change Haircare 1,62,695 1,61,386-1.2 Shampoo 446,814 442,34-1. Hair Colorants Inc Lightening 298,93 296,83 -.7 Conditioners 283,15 278,394-1.7 Hair Sprays & Setting Sprays 119,487 113,36-5.2 Hair Creams/Waxes and Gels 51,62 5,486-2.2 Settings Lotions and Mousses 15,845 15,25-3.8 Home Perms 1,9 949-12.9 The more mass market sectors like haircare and deodorants continue to be victims of the price war, i.e. grocers have started to match discounter pricing and withdraw multi-buy promotions for example, so the shoppers pay lower prices but are not encouraged to buy more volume. Shampoo saw a.8% volume decline and a 1% value fall to use as an example. Shower/bodywash was hit hardest as the market lost nearly 7% of its value and volume as we made products last longer and didn t stock up on multi-buys as in the past. Toothpaste showed how mature markets can grow by offering consumers premium solutions to problems such as teeth whitening and sensitive teeth. Salons (Industry estimate) 44,614 44,614. Toiletries 2,25,439 2,167,11-1.7 Toothpaste 476,558 49,16 2.8 Depilatories 47,239 45,268-4.2 Foot Preparations 136,674 137,12.3 Deodorants 588,746 574,469-2.4 Shaving Soaps 74,96 71,2-5.2 Mouthwashes 188,22 19,261 1.1 Talcum Powder 16,27 15,924-2.1 Bath Additives 76,994 73,312-4.8 Shower and Body Wash 342,581 32,48-6.6 Liquid Soap 172,896 169,665-1.9 Toilet Soap 84,373 79,926-5.3 Whilst in the discounters and bargain stores gained share, grocery fought back with pricing as its chief weapon. The High Street probably did better than expected as shoppers still want a large range of cosmetic products and are prepared to look for the item that best fits their needs and budget. Internet purchasing reached an all-time high but growth was a little less than previous years. Black Friday, for example, saw internet sales in beauty fall compared to as shoppers become less impressed with special offers and sense they can find them throughout the year. In the past, some beauty markets such as colour cosmetics, have been quite resilient to the economic woes of the nation but we are seeing signs that consumers in general are keener to spend their money on experiences rather than possessions.e.g. a short break holiday rather than a new coat. Therefore, the cosmetics industry needs to continue to innovate to offer products that are not just a commodity but offer an experience to the user. 217 will see a difficult time for the cosmetics industry as there will be two main pressure points to overcome inflation, particularly in the mass market toiletry area, whilst welcome for some manufacturers this will leave the dilemma of passing on increased costs to shoppers, reducing margins for retailers or reducing their own margins I suspect a combination of all three will actually occur. Brexit and consumer confidence is the other issue we have seen households spending more income on utility bills and housing, this leaves less to spend on non- essential items. 217 could be roller coaster of a year so hold on tight and you might come out of it with an experience to remember! 29
9 Cosmetic Industry in Figures Sector Share (%) of Category Dec 16 vs Dec 15 by Value (rsp) Methodology & Data Sources (3.1) Fragrances Sector Year on Year % change by Value -.8 Skincare -1.2 Haircare -1.7 Toiletries 23.1% (23.5%) Toiletries 17.1% (17.3%) Haircare 23.% (23.2%) Skincare 17.5% (16.9%) Colour Cosmetics 19.3% (19.1%) Fragrances Sector Share (%) of Category Dec 16 vs Dec 15 by Units 3. Sector Share (%) Dec 16 9,379,264 (9.3) 9.7 Colour Cosmetics (16.9) 17.1 (17.5) 17.5 Skincare Haircare Toiletries Sector Share (%) Dec 16 2,61,44 Units 1. Fragrances (53.2) 4. Colour Cosmetics 52.7 IRI market tracking data: Census EPoS data from Asda, Boots, Iceland, Morrisons, Sainsburys, Superdrug, Tesco, Waitrose, Wilkinson, The Cooperative Group. Sample EPoS data from Symbol Grocers, other Coops, independents and chemists. Other data representation (audit and estimation methodology) from convenience stores, petrol forecourts, chemists and other impulse outlets. Kantar Worldpanel Purchasing data (Worldpanel) Individual purchasing data from a panel of 3, households which for this report will cover other GB outlets not mentioned in IRI tracking plus Aldi, Costco, Holland & Barrett, Lidl, Marks & Spencer, Savers, Bodyshop, bargain stores (such as Poundland, B&M Bargains, Home Bargains, 99p Stores) and other smaller outlets. Kantar Beauty Panel A panel of 15, individuals who record their purchasing of fragrances, colour cosmetics and skincare products across all relevant outlets (including department stores, Boots, Bodyshop, Internet, mail order and direct sales) via online data entry. Report Definitions Measures: Value Sales = sold (in s) % Chg = % change versus same time a year ago Further Details IRI www.iriworldwide.co.uk Kantar Worldpanel www.kantarworldpanel.com Sector Year on Year % change by Units -3.1 Fragrances 2.7 Colour Cosmetics Skincare -1.4 Haircare -2.1 Toiletries 3
CTPA Annual Report UK Trade in Global Markets* Balance of Trade - EU Vs Non EU The UK is a vibrant and innovative cosmetics producer growing the value of both export and import markets in by 13% and 13.1% respectively over. However, this left the UK as a net importer for both EU and non-eu markets. 3 25 EU Non EU By worldwide region, the EU is the UK s largest trading partner in cosmetic products with 66.2% of the worldwide market in exports and 67.1% of imports. However, the US is the most important non-eu partner market being the second largest import market and the third largest export market for UK cosmetic products. Within the EU, consistent top export markets for British goods remain the Irish Republic (first) and Germany (second) with France and Germany the first and third importers into the UK. * All data sourced from www.uktradeinfo.com - SITC codes 553 (exc air freshners/candles) and 554 (toilet soap and liquid soap only) Balance UK Trade (Millions) 2 15 1 5-5 -1-15 212 213 214 UK Imports and Exports Worldwide Imports 3699.5m Exports 3539.6m % share worldwide market European Union 28 2482.4 / 67.1% 2342.2 / 66.2% Key: Value year on year Imports up & down Exports up & down Western Europe (exc EU 28) 133.3 / 3.6% 14.2 / 4.% Eastern Europe (exc EU 28) 2.7 /.1% 34.5 / 1.% North America 587.3 / 15.9% 399.6 / 11.3% Middle East & North Africa 32.1 /.9% 26.2 / 5.8% Other America 3.7 /.1% 33.6 /.9% Sub-Saharan Africa 2.2/.5% 49.6 /1.4% Asia & Oceania 437.9 / 11.8% 333.8 / 9.4% 31
9 Cosmetic Industry in Figures UK s Largest Worldwide Export Markets Figures in m 599.3 455. 339.5 39.7 25.8 529. 22.9 419.6 13.5 262.4 161.3 Germany USA 12.9 79.8 167.1 91.8 Irish Republic 13.3 267.7 Belgium Netherlands France Spain 81. UAE UK s Largest Worldwide Import Markets 88.1 64.2 Poland Italy Figures in m 744.6 539.2 52.2 712.6 256.7 494.8 255. 235.7 178.3 483.7 169.7 151.3 112.6 185.7 21.6 23. 127.2 France 32 USA Germany Poland China Italy Netherlands 125. 126.3 Spain Belgium 15.8 Irish Republic
CTPA Annual Report Import Comparison of Non-EU -212 Export Comparison of Non-EU -212 7 4 North America 6 5 North America Asia/Oceanic 3 Asia/Oceanic 4 3 2 1 212 213 Western Europe (exc EU 28) Other Non-EU Markets 214 2 1 212 213 214 Middle East & N Africa Western Europe (exc EU 28) Sub-Saharan Africa Eastern Europe Other Amercia EU 28 Vs. Non-EU Import -212 EU 28 Vs. Non-EU Export -212 2,5 EU 28 Non-EU 2,5 EU 28 Non-EU 2, 2, 1,5 1,5 1, 1, 5 5 212 213 214 212 213 214 World Import and Export Data by Category Import Category share Import Export m m Perfumes 756.3 69.8 Beauty (skincare/decorative) 1657.6 146.1 Haircare 492.7 384.4 Oralcare 195.7 253.4 Men s shaving 33.6 18.4 Deodorants & Antiperspirants 142.8 37.9 Bath preparations 85.1 56.4 Depilatories & other toiletries 61. 93.5 Toilet soap 11.4 173. Liquid soap 164.3 146.6 Total 3699.5 3539.6 Export 33