Haircare Devolution Naturally back to basics By Jason Dearden-Watts (November 2014)
Eco Hair Care Economy - Simple formulas Ecology Selection of naturally derived key ingredients Basic Formulas + Claim
Consumer Product Buzz Words. SLES / Sulphate Free PEG Free Paraben Free (MIT Free / Formaldehyde Donors, Phenoxyethanol..??) Natural Organic.Chemical Free..
Complication & Confusion Increased consumer knowledge.. to what extent?
Complete Products Surfachem s Complete Base Formula Offerings: Shampoo Conditioner Hair Gel Spray / Viscous
Shampoo
Shampoo Based on a blend of sulfoacetate, Sarcosinate and High Active Betaine Trade Name Chemical % w/w Deionised Water Aqua 69.900 Lathanol LAL Coarse Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate 10.000 Surfacare L30 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 10.000 TEGO Betain F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6.500 Surfac G995V Glycerin 1.000 Surfacare GLB60 Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glyceryl Laurate 1.000 Saliguard EZ Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,3-Propanediol 1.000 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.500 Perfume Givaudan Pommy 0.100
Shampoo - Key Component Surfactant combination The combination of Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Shampoo - What if I need more viscosity You can add 1-2% salt to thicken, or increase Surfac GLB60, or add Glucamate VLT at 0.5-1.0%. more perfume Surfac GLB60 and Betaine can be used as premix solubiliser, (Additional solubiliser may still be needed) to reduce cost Carbopol Silk 100 can allow a 30% reduction in surfactants giving similar viscosity and can be salt thickened....to suspend particles or pearl Add 0.3-0.4% Carbopol Silk 100.
Carbopol Silk 100 Cost effective solution to stabilise shampoo base Enhanced flow and foam Aid for low active systems Increased cationic and silicone deposition Increased conditioning power Significant wet combing improvement Very good overall wet and dry sensory performance INCI: Carbomer
Carbopol Silk 100
Conditioner
Conditioner Conditioner based on VARISOFT EQ 65 Naturally derived and sustainable Ester Quat Trade Name Chemical % w/w Deionised Water Aqua 89.250 Varisoft EQ 65 Pellets Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol 3.000 Surfac CS Cetearyl Alcohol 4.000 Surfac G995V Glycerin 1.000 Perfume Givaudan Pommy 0.100 Saliguard HDZ JBL Citric Acid Monohydrate F6000 Fine 1,2-Hexanediol, 1,2-Propanediol, Iodopropynyl Butyl Carbamate Citric Acid 0.750 QS
Conditioner - What if I need more viscosity You can increase the Cetearyl Alcohol and/or the level of Varisoft EQ 65. Add small amount of water based thickener. to reduce cost Reduce the Varisoft EQ 65 and increase consistency enhancer, blend Varisoft EQ 65 with another conditioner such as Varisoft BT 85. Most aspects can be adjusted via the Ester Quat / Consistency enhancer blend + addition of claimable
Conditioner - Key Component VARISOFT EQ 65 A Naturally derived, Ecocert approved Ester Quat. Gives a rich cream emulsion.
VARISOFT EQ 65 Naturally derived Ester Quat, biodegradable Complies with Ecocert and Cosmos standards Comparable conditioning to BTAC with better rinse out True cream formulation aesthetics Richer appearance and texture INCI: Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride & Cetearyl alcohol
VARISOFT EQ 65
Hair Gel Spray
Hair Gel Spray Hair Styling Gel Spray based on the new natural Kerastyle Polymer Trade Name Chemical % w/w Deionised Water Aqua 30-45 Kerastyle Alginic Acid (seaweed extract) 2-4 Ethanol Ethanol 50-70 Perfume Perfume QS
Hair Gel - Key Component Kerastyle natural styling polymer Patented formulation works with alcohol unlike other natural styling polymers Performance as good (if not better) in comparison with PVP/VA copolymer systems Developed by scientists at University of Leeds spin-out company Keracol Ltd
Hair Gel - What if I need more viscosity The Kerastyle also acts as a natural thickener, so varying levels has thickening and styling benefits. to reduce cost Less Kerastyle or additives.
Kerastyle Plant sources identified Extract tested and modified with ion-exchange Application developed & efficacy tested New products Ethanol-water formulation Utilises natural biopolymers as key active to replace synthetic polymers Soluble in up to 70% ethanol
Kerastyle Citrus fruit peel converted waste from food and drink industry. Pectin derivative gives both hold and gels the system. Seaweed produced from sustainable seaweed sources growing naturally on British coastline. Alginic acid derivative gives both hold and gels the system.
+ Claims Viatenza ABIL Soft AF 100 Sensomer CT-250 Ubuntu Mongongo Reticulation ABIL UV Quat 50
Viatenza Chosen oil is esterified with Polyglyceryl molecule. Oils become water dispersible All grades are 100% natural & vegetable derived Organic certified grades available for most oils
Viatenza Water Dispersible Oils: Enhanced hair shine / hair feel Oil / fragrance solubilisation Claims support Clear formulations Natural / Organic certification A huge range readily available Potential for bespoke production
Sensomer CT-250 A natural polymer in the galactomannan family (Natural, vegetable-based carbohydrates based on mannose and galactose sugars) Plant grows wild in tropical zones History of use in Ayurvedic medicine for over a thousand years Functions as a thickening and gelling agent INCI: Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Sensomer CT-250 Hair Substantive Quat with Boosted Coacervation Better coacervation than guar Naturally derived from cassia gum Substantive hair conditioner Improved combing and hair aesthetics Low usage: 0.1-0.3% w/w
Sensomer CT-250
ABIL UV Quat 50 Substantive Hair Conditioner with UV Protection: Hair-substantive conditioning quat UV absorbers bound to hair Improved colour protection Improved sensory benefits Usage: 1-5% w/w (2% w/w in colour fade test) INCI: Polysilicone-19 & Dipropylene Glycol
ABIL UV Quat 50 2% w/w ABIL UV Quat 50 gives 50% colour protection
Mongongo Reticulation Film Forming Oil Offering Heat Protection: Oil coats hair shaft forming protective film High refractive index for shine Gloss and conditioning Improved sensory benefits Available as a Viatenza for shampoo INCI: Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
Mongongo Reticulation As heat and light hit the conjugated double bonds within the oil, in the presence of oxygen, an oxypolymer is formed which coats the hair shaft
ABIL Soft AF 100 Targeted silicone conditioner adding volume: Substantive to damaged cuticles only Weightless targeted conditioning Increased hair style volume Improved sensory benefits from silicone Low usage: 0.3-4.0% w/w conditioners Low usage: 0.1-2.0% w/w shampoo INCI - Methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone
ABIL Soft AF 100 Simple CTAC / Cetyl Alcohol base + 2% w/w conditioning agent.
And Finally....Simple bases..natural options..add in claims
Visit Surfachem at stand 308 for more information SurfachemGroup Ltd Registered @ 2nd Floor, 2 The Embankment, Sovereign Street, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS1 4BA, United Kingdom. Tel : +44 (0) 113 3949200 -Fax: +44 (0) 113 3949201 Registered No 3269895. Surfachem-a 2M Holdings Limited Company.