NCV ANNUAL REPORT 2016 The Dutch cosmetics market in 2016 The diversity of cosmetics sales channels has increased significantly in recent years. The consumer has more and more opportunities to buy cosmetics. The more traditional channels such as supermarket, drugstore and perfumery, are still very important for the sale of cosmetics. However, sales via the so-called alternative channels, such as e-commerce (online), budget stores, lifestyle stores, fashion stores, airports, pharmacy, beauty specialist (beautician) and hairdresser, are increasing every year. Based on data from Nielsen and GfK, the NCV concludes that total consumption spending in 2016 will be nearly 2.8 billion euros and that the total cosmetics market shows a small positive development of about 1 to 2%, mainly driven by the growth in alternative channels. There has also been an increase in the number of packages realized. The turnover of the cosmetics market is under pressure. Almost all the submarkets have an increase in promotional pressure, due to more and "deeper" promotions (for example 1 + 1). As a result, there has been a negative flow of value out of the market. Overall, in personal care, 33.5% (32.1% in 2015) of all purchases were in promotion. Important topics for consumers continue to be health, well-being and care. Purchase decisions are made on the added value and ease of use of the product. According to GfK, there have been more cosmetics buyers in 2016 compared to 2015. However, these people buy on average less frequently and spend a smaller amount per buyer. Most of the personal care products are purchased by families with children. However, the importance of older consumers (55+ shoppers) is increasing significantly. This is because this group is relatively large and more than 80% of all persons in this group purchases personal care products. Their average spend on cosmetics has increased. Hence, they are an important and growing target group! In addition, there is an increase in the spending of cosmetics in young households without children. This group also bought more cosmetics in 2016 compared to 2015, and this group has grown in size. Nevertheless, in absolute terms, they are still in minority compared to the older consumers. The last quarter of 2016 showed a clear growth towards 2015. Consumer confidence has increased sharply and therefore also the willingness to buy. There is a focus on health, but also on beauty. That's why the NCV is cautiously optimistic about spending on cosmetics, even though it is expected that development in the traditional channel will be difficult. Especially in sales due to the expected effects of the VAT reduction on sunscreen cosmetics and toothpaste and the continued increasing promotional pressure. This means that consumers are becoming less aware of the benefits of a particular product and only compare, making their purchasing decisions based on price. To create growth and added value to the market, it is important to continue to create new distinctive products with clear consumer benefits. Online sales will continue to grow in share because of convenience and extensive product range. If the consumer is in the store (especially drugstore / perfumery), he expects quality and good advice.
Using data collected by both Nielsen and GfK the NCV creates, as accurate as possible, an overview of the consumer turnover and trends of personal care products. Nielsen has measured the sale of cosmetics in approximately 98% of the regular supermarket, drugstore and perfumery channels accessible to consumers in the Netherlands. The graphs and tables summarise the way turnover developed in 2016 in the various market segments. All turnover figures are displayed on consumer price level and include VAT (52 weeks). The Annual Report 2016 of the Dutch Cosmetics Association (NCV) is free to download. The submarkets Bath and shower products In the submarket bath and shower products sales are under pressure. In volume there still was a slight growth. The average price of bath and shower products have fallen, especially driven from the drugstore channel through the enormous promotional pressure, which is even more frequent (more often) and deeper. The spa moment in your bathroom at home is a wellness and pampering moment and a trend that has continued. Also oil products are popular. New in the drugstore and supermarket channel are the mousse products, which contribute to a feeling of wellness. These products provide an added value in the submarket. The sale of especially showerproducts in nontraditional (alternative) sales channels has grown. Decorative cosmetics The submarket decorative cosmetics consists of lip, eye, nail and facial make up (skin tone) products and represents a value of almost 389 million euros. The submarket has realized a slight growth in turn over and has remained stable in sales. Growth is mainly due to the complexion (teint) products. There are many new products, the so-called 'new gestures', which step by step help to create certain looks like shapers and concealers. Especially young people are inspired by vloggers. Young girls watch massive tutorials on YouTube and start early with the use of, for example, complexion products. Turnover in mascara's decreases but the eye brow en eyeliner product brought dynamic in the submarket. The sale of nail products is under pressure.
Deodorant The market deodorant has to cope with a very high promotion pressure, this promotion pressure has increased in 2016. There is pressure on the price per package and thus a demolition of the submarket. In volume, the submarket has shown a positive development. The Private label collection of deodorants has been expanded by various retailers. Consumer needs are care, refreshment, anti-stain and protection. The category of products for the prevention of Yellow spots and white stripes are the fastest growing and add value. In the submarket most of the sales are from regular aerosols (over 70% of the total deodorant market). Fragrances The submarket represents a value of 460 million euros and is the largest market. In turnover this market remains stable, but it has declined in sales. The development in women's scents are still slightly positive, but for males negative. Also in this market the promotional pressure is rising. Women switch easier than men to a different scent and are easier tempted by an introduction or price. Men like to buy a scent they are used to. There were fewer introductions than normal. Mother's Day, Sinterklaas and Christmas are important purchase moments. The online sales for fragrances have shown a strong growth. The estimation of the NCV, based on information from Nielsen and Gfk, is that's certainly 10% of the purchases are done online. Hair care In the total hair care market there is a decrease in both sales and volume noticeable. The submarket consists of shampoo, creams, hair cures, hair styling, hair dyes and others products. Shampoo, the biggest category, showed after 2 year of decline a slightly positive development. Popular are the shampoo products where oil has been processed. Both in shampoo and in creams/ hair cures the average price increased. The category 'styling' is difficult. There are more and more promotions but the promotions are less profound, resulting in a number of cases whereby a higher price is established. The average price for hair colouring products Is under pressure especially because it is a promotional market. Private labels share the growth. There are new (soft)products for aging hair on the marketed, which help with a loss of condition or changes in texture of the hair. There is a lot of interest for products with natural ingredients. Hair care is also a big category in the alternative channel (such as budget stores), but the growth has been smoothed because sales in the drugstore is increasing. Skin care The market for skin care involves almost 426 million euros. Sales are under pressure, both in the drugstore and in the perfumery channel. The submarket is strong promotional driven. There were more and deeper promotions (for example, 1 + 1). In sales is a slight growth especially driven by facial care. Face care is the largest category within the submarket. We experience postponed purchases in the selective channel through promotions and a runoff to the drugstore and online. The sales in care products fall through the promotional pressure. In cleaning products we see the so-called micellar water products (cleaning water) growing, especially in the drugstore. These products are not that expensive that is why this does not result in a growth of the category. Interest for national brands is a trend. In the body care category the weather plays a big part. Some products just become functional in winter while others are more functional in summer (for preparation). In addition, there are many emotional reasons to use skin care products. Like "a moment for yourself". Body care declined in
turnover. The skin enhancing performance products still grow, but the basic products not. The sensorial experience of the products is important to many consumers and this is being addressed by manufacturers with creams that feel delicious, withdraw fast and are effective. Oral care The market for oral care is stabilized in turnover, the promotional pressure is high. In sales there is a growth of 2% realized. The family toothpastes are under pressure but the added value (and often more expensive) products, like whitening products, grew slightly. Dentist's advice and attention or oral hygienist for a good oral care is important. Many innovations respond to the needs of the particular elderly people. Also private label products, in particular travel packages, show growth. Shaving products The market for shaving products is under pressure. There is an increase in promotional pressure, which affects the price and gaining value from the market. The volume is growing slightly through sales in promotion. The beard trend is still going on in our country. Also in this submarket we see a shift of traditional channels to alternative channels. Also online sales have increased. Soap (bars & liquid) There are more products sold but the market has not shown a positive development due to lower prices. The proportion of liquid soap is the largest. In this submarket the sale of private label and sales through the alternative channel is important. Sun cosmetics The summer season 2016 started late and therefore the sales as well. Nevertheless, there was a good after summer. The turnover is slightly negative in this sub-market. In packaging there is a positive development. The promotional pressure in this submarket increased. The sales of antisunburn products has remained stable. Good protection is important, therefore many people buy products with high factors. More than 78% of the sold packages was a product with protection factor SPF 30 or higher. Still, by far not everyone is using an anti-sunburn product. Many people use too little of a product and not regularly enough. People have to lubricate at other times then during holidays especially if they are exposed to the sun for long periods of time (sports, hiking, gardening, etc.). Products for children are also important here. Application of anti-sunburn should increase on for example the playground. As an application form, the roller is new. This application form makes it possible to apply antisunburn easier. The most used application form is still the milk bottle. Private label sales drop and also sell in the selective channel is under pressure. Various This submarket includes wet wipes for babies and children, lips pommade, products for intimate hygiene, foot care products and talc. The market has experienced a growth both in turnover as well as in sales. The growth was mainly driven by the development In lips pommade. The large collection and the many innovations with variations and 'fun' elements make products feel like 'collectors items' and this gives the category an impulse. However, brands focusing on care (the key necessity of lips) are most contributing to growth. The market for wet wipes is full promotion driven. The category of foot care is under pressure.
Dutch Cosmetics Association (NCV) The NCV is the association of manufacturers and importers of cosmetics and products for personal care. This includes not only products for daily care, such as deodorant, shampoo and toothpaste, but also products that serve to embellish, like make-up and hair dyes. NCV represents the common interests of Dutch business, within in the Netherlands as well as abroad and provides a variety of services for its members. Approximately 100 companies are member of the NCV. They cover almost all sectors of cosmetics, such as mass and selective brands, professional hair care, and nail care. The NCV Board consists entirely of representatives of member companies. The board and members of NCV fulfil a crucial role in the work of the organisation. They determine the association s policy and play a crucial role in the provision of information. Most of the work of representation and service provision is carried out by a secretariat of 6 staff members. NCV P.O. Box 914 3700 AX Zeist Phone: +31-(0)30 604 94 80 E-mail: info@ncv-cosmetica.nl Internet: www.ncv-cosmetica.nl