I. Patterns by Enlargement Method And Needlework Technique

I. Patterns by Enlargement Method And Needlework Technique This index is for both volumes of Fashions of the Gilded Age. For each entry, the volume number is given, followed by a colon, then by the page number(s); then, if appropriate, by a semicolon, another volume number, then page number(s). References to the introduction and chapter 1 are given as 1 & 2, since this material is repeated with the same page numbers in both volumes. Numbers in parentheses distinguish different patterns with the same name. Crocheting, Knitting, and Knotting Crocheted Chemise Yoke, 2: 379 Crocheted Edging, 2: 389 Crocheted Fringe (1), 2: 407 408 Crocheted Fringe (2), 2: 408 Crocheted Fringe (3), 2: 409 410 Crocheted Fringe (4), 2: 410 411 Crocheted Fringe (5), 2: 411 412 Crocheted Fringe (6), 2: 412 413 Knitted and Buttonhole-Stitched Edging, 390 Knitted and Crocheted Mitt, 2: 340 341 Knitted Insertion, 2: 385 Knotted Fringe, 2: 409 Mignardise and Crochet Insertion, 2: 386 387 Serpentine Braid and Crocheted Edging, 2: 375 376 Tatted and Crocheted Edging, 2: 375 Woven Braid and Crocheted Edging, 2: 388 389 Woven Braid and Crocheted Trimming 2: 374 375 Cutting by the Cloth Chemise, 1: 98 102. See also chemise patterns under Drafting with Apportioning Scales Skirt, 2: 467 471. See also skirt patterns under Drafting with Ordinary Units Developing from Another Pattern Bertha (1), 2: 397 Bertha (2), 2: 398 Bodice with Narrow Shoulders and Back, 1: 171 172 Bodice with Square Neck, 1: 252 Bodice with Two Side Pieces, 1: 169 Bodice with Yoke, 1: 170 Circular Mantle, 2: 218 219 Close-Fitting, Four-Piece Jacket, 1: 200 201 Close-Fitting Jacket (1), 1: 236 Close-Fitting Jacket (2), 1: 237 Collars, 1 & 2: 40 41 Dolman Coat, 2: 238 239 Dolman Mantelet, 2: 229 231 Half-Fitting Coat (1), 2: 173 174 Half-Fitting Coat (2), 2: 175 176 Half-Fitting Coat (3), 2: 177 178 Half-Fitting Coat (4), 2: 179 180 Half-High Shawl Neckline (1), 1: 272 Half-High Shawl Neckline (2), 1: 273 Half-Low Neckline, 1: 274 Jacket with Shawl Collar (1), 1: 181 182 Jacket with Shawl Collar (2), 1: 191 192 Long Vest, 2: 116 Low Shawl Neckline, 1: 275 MacFarlane, 2: 194 195 Mantle with Optional Pelerine and Hood, 2: 200 203 Practice Coat, 1 & 2: 37 39 Sacque Coat, 2: 181 182 Shawl-Shaped Fichu, 2: 314 Single-Breasted Coat with Skirt, 2: 161 162 Sleeves, 1 & 2: 41 44 Square Neckline, 1: 276 459

Index I Traveling Coat or Waterproof with Pelerine, 2: 196 199 Traveling Mantle or Waterproof, 2: 185 187 Vest, 2: 118 Drafting with Apportioning Scales Ball Mantle, 2: 222 Basque Bodice for Medium Sized Ladies, 1: 173 174 Basque Bodice for Very Stout Ladies, 1: 175 176 Basque Bodice with Imitation Vest, 1: 198 199 Basque Bodice with Lace Trimming, 1: 196 197 Basque Bodice with Revers, 1: 187 188 Basque Bodice with Round Neck, 1: 263 264 Basque Bodice with Square Neck, 1: 257 258 Basque Bodice with Tails (1), 1: 214 Basque Bodice with Tails (2), 1: 218 219 Coat with Contrasting Material, 1: 208 209 Coat with Shawl Collar, 2: 157 158 Chemise Buttoned on the Shoulders, 1: 95 Chemise with Crossed Neckband, 1: 84 85 Chemise with Heart-Shaped Neck and Pleats, 1: 86 87 Chemise with Narrow Neckband, 1: 81 Chemise with Narrow Shoulders, 1: 88 Chemise with Narrow Shoulders and Small Sleeves, 1: 77 Chemise with Neckband, 1: 80 Chemise with Round Neck, 1: 75 76 Chemise with Round Yoke, 1: 82 Chemise with Short Sleeves, 1: 93 Chemise with Square Neck, 1: 90 91 Chemise with Square Yoke, 1: 94 Chemise with Tucked Pieces, 1: 92 Close-Fitting Coat-Jacket (1), 2: 151 152 Close-Fitting Coat-Jacket (2), 2: 155 156 Close-Fitting Polonaise, 1: 314 315 Close-Fitting Sleeve, 1 & 2: 18 Corselet or Corset, 1: 52 Corset for Stout Ladies, 1: 55 Corset for Young Ladies, 1: 51 Corset without Gussets, 1: 54 Cuirass Bodice, 1: 189 190 Dolman for Evening, 2: 223 224 Double-Breasted Basque Bodice (1), 1: 215 216 Double-Breasted Basque Bodice (2), 1: 217 218 Double-Breasted Jacket with Attached Skirt, 1: 229 230 Double-Breasted, Half-Fitting Jacket or Coat, 1: 242 243 Double-Breasted, Long Morning Dress, 1: 135 136 Double-Breasted Vest, 2: 119 Double-Breasted Winter Coat, 2: 153 154 Dressing Gown with Watteau Pleat, 1: 122 123 Evening Mantilla for Elderly Ladies, 2: 221 Gored Chemise with Moderately Low Neck, 1: 79 Gored Chemise with Simple Sleeves, 1: 78 Half-Fitting Dressing Gown, 1: 120 121 Half-Fitting Jacket with Pocket Flaps, 1: 244 245 Half-Fitting, Single-Breasted Jacket (1), 1: 238 239 Half-Fitting, Single-Breasted Jacket (2), 1: 240 241 Half-Fitting Waterproof or Traveling Mantle, 2: 188 189 High-Necked Jacket Bodice (1), 1: 183 184 High-Necked Jacket Bodice (2), 1: 210 211 Long, Close-Fitting Waterproof, 2: 183 184 Long, Single-Breasted Jacket Bodice, 1: 177 178 Low-Cut Basque for Ball and Evening, 1: 247 248 Low-Cut Round Bodice for Ball and Evening, 1: 249 250 Mantelet for Evening (1), 2: 204 Mantelet for Evening (2), 2: 205 Nightdress with Back Yoke, 1: 137 138 Nightdress with Bands of Trimming, 1: 139 140 Night Jacket, 1: 141 Peignoir, 1: 118 119 Plain Bodice for Medium-Sized Ladies, 1: 161 162 Plain Bodice for Stout Ladies, 1: 165 166 Plain Bodice for Very Stout Ladies, 1: 167 168 Plain Bodice for Well-Developed Ladies, 1: 163 164 Pointed Basque for Ball Toilette, 1: 251 Polonaise with Two Side Pieces, 1: 321 322 Practice Bodice, 1 & 2: 15 19 Princess Chemise, 1: 96 97 460

Patterns by Method Princess Dress, Waterproof, or Coat, 1: 426 428 Redingote with Revers, 2: 169 170 Riding Bodice or Riding Jacket, 2: 124 125 Riding Bodice with Basque, 2: 120 121 Riding Bodice with Short Basque, 2: 122 123 Shawl Mantilla for Evening, 2: 209 Simple Half-Fitting Coat, 2: 159 160 Single-Breasted, Close-Fitting Jacket, 1: 185 186 Single-Breasted, Half-Fitting Coat, 2: 163 164 Single-Breasted Jacket Bodice, 1: 212 213 Single-Breasted Jacket with Attached Skirt, 1: 227 228 Single-Breasted Morning Dress, 1: 133 134 Tucked Chemise with Heart-Shaped Yoke, 1: 89 Tucked Chemise with V-Shaped Yoke, 1: 83 Underbodice with Heart-Shaped Neck, 1: 104 Underbodice with Round Neck, 1: 103 Vest with Falling Collar, 2: 117 Vest with Narrow Standing Collar, 2: 115 Waterproof, 2: 190 191 Waterproof for Stout Ladies, 2: 192 193 Winter Coat, 2: 171 172 Drafting with Ordinary Units Bashlyk (1), 2: 284 Bashlyk (2), 2: 285 Bedouin for Evening, 220 Circular Evening Cloak with Hood, 2: 216 Collar-Shaped Ball Cape, 2: 213 Court Train Skirt, 1: 145 146 Demitrain Skirt, 1: 144 145 Drawers with Two Trimmings, 1: 73 74 Fichu, 2: 313 314 Long Gaiters, 2: 359 360 Long Underskirt in Two Styles, 1: 111 113 Moderately Full Skirt without Train, 1: 147 149 Moderately Full Skirt with Train, 1: 150 151 Modern Riding Skirt, 2: 128 129 Modern Riding Trousers, 2: 135 138 Nightcap, 2: 277 Ordinary Long Riding Trousers, 2: 130 132 Short Gaiters, 2: 359 Short Riding Trousers, 2: 133 134 Short Underskirt in Two Styles, 1: 107 108 Shoulder Cape for Ball Toilette, 2: 212 Train Skirt, 1: 145 Tunic for Evening Dress, 1: 286 287 Underskirt for Evening Toilette, 1: 152 154 Underskirt with Buttoned-On Train, 1: 114 116 Walking Skirt, 1: 144 Embroidery Border, 2: 384 Border in Application and Embroidery, 2: 409 Border of Colored Embroidery on Batiste (1), 2: 404 Border of Colored Embroidery on Batiste (2), 2: 404 Border of Colored Embroidery on Batiste (3), 2: 405 Braided Cloth Jacket, 1: 231 235 Chain Stitch Border, 2: 405 Chain Stitch Embroidery, 2: 403 Chemise with Russian Embroidery, 2: 377 Cravat Bow with Spanish Embroidery, 2: 306 Cravat End, 2: 301 302 Cravat in Filigree Point, 2: 303 304 Designs for Embroidered Collars, 2: 294 Embroidered Border, 2: 413 Embroidered Chemise, 2: 380 381 Embroidered Cloth Dress, 1: 405 407 Embroidered Parasol, 2: 348 Embroidered Reticule, 2: 353 354 Embroidered Slipper (1), 2: 364 365 Embroidered Slipper (2), 2: 365 Embroidery Design for Slipper, 2: 369 Insertion, 2: 384 Neck Bow, 2: 299 Renaissance Embroidery Border, 2: 392 Satchel with Spanish Embroidery, 2: 355 356 White Embroidery Border (1), 2: 385 White Embroidery Border (2), 2: 388 White Embroidery Border (3), 2: 391 White Embroidery Border (4), 2: 391 White Embroidery Border (5), 2: 392 White Embroidery Border (6), 2: 392 Lace Making Border for Ball and Evening Dresses, 2: 405 Border of Point Lace Embroidery on Net (1), 2: 390 461

Index I Border of Point Lace Embroidery on Net (2), 2: 391 Border of Point Lace Embroidery on Net (3), 2: 391 Collar in Point Lace Embroidery, 2: 289 290 Collar of Russian Braid, 2: 288 Darned Net Fichu, 2: 310 311 Point Lace Embroidery on Net Border (1), 2: 387 Point Lace Embroidery on Net Border (2), 2: 387 388 Wrought Guipure Border, 2: 387 Projecting or Gridding Basque for Blue Crepe Lisse Dress, 1: 253 255 Basque for Brocade and Velvet Visiting Dress, 1: 220 222 Basque for Green Chambery Gauze Dress, 1: 254 256 Bathing Cap, 2: 276 Bathing Cap Trimmed with Leaves, 2: 274 Bathing Cap Trimmed with Ruffle, 2: 274 275 Batiste, Tulle, and Lace Vest, 1: 105 106 Beaded Tulle Fichu-Mantle, 2: 206 Blonde Bertha, 2: 395 Blue Cloth Riding Habit Bodice, 2: 126 127 Bodice for Striped Percale Suit, 1: 193 195 Braided Cloth Jacket, 1: 231 235 Brocade Basque, 1: 265 267 Brocade Bridal Toilette, 2: 107 111 Bunting Grenadine and Quadrillé Gauze Dress, 1: 429 433 Camel s Hair Opera Cloak, 2: 225 226 Cashmere and Satin Hood, 2: 280 281 Cashmere Peasant Bodice, 1: 179 180 Cheviot Cloth Dress, 1: 376 381 Coattail Basque, 1: 268 271 Collar in Point Lace Embroidery, 2: 289 290 Collar of Russian Braid, 2: 288 Darned Net Fichu, 2: 310 311 Designs for Embroidered Collars, 2: 294 Dimity Bustle, 1: 68 70 Dress with Pointed Basque, 1: 391 393 Drilling Bathing Slipper, 2: 367 Ecru Flannel Bathing Suit, 2: 142 144 Embroidered Bag, 2: 352 Embroidered Bathing Suit, 2: 145 146 Embroidered Batiste and Lace Apron, 2: 318 Embroidered Camel s Hair Dress, 1: 408 414 Embroidered Cloth Dress, 1: 405 407 Embroidered Reticule, 2: 353 354 Embroidered Slipper (1), 2: 364 365 Embroidered Slipper (2), 2: 365 English Surtout, 2: 165 168 Evening Dress with Removable Train, 2: 76 81 Faille and Brocaded Wool Dress, 1: 354 358 Faille and Foulard Dress, 1: 386 390 Faille Evening Dress, 2: 72 75 Fan Skirt, 1: 155 157 French Bunting Dress, 1: 415 419 Grosgrain and Pointillé Cloth Wrapper, 1: 131 132 Grosgrain and Satin Dress, 1: 369 375 Grosgrain Reception Dress, 1: 348 353 India Cashmere Pelerine, 2: 214 215 India Shawl Worn as a Cloak, 2: 240 241 Japanese Corset, 1: 56 57 Lace Shawl Worn as a Fichu-Mantilla, 2: 207 208 Lace Shawl Worn as a Mantle, 2: 210 211 Linen and Lace Collar, 2: 295 Linen Apron, 2: 317 Long, Close-Fitting Waterproof, 2: 183 184 Loose Watteau Wrapper, 1: 127 130 Mantilla for Batiste Dress, 1: 320 Matelassé Hood, 2: 282 Muslin Hoopskirt, 1: 62 64 Muslin Kitchen Apron, 2: 315 316 Muslin Petticoat, 1: 109 110 Nainsook and Lace Vest, 1: 105 106 Negligee Corset, 1: 58 61 Opera Hood, 2: 278 279 Opera Mantle, 2: 217 Ottoman Silk and Figured Plush Dress, 1: 420 425 Overdress for Cashmere and Satin Dress, 1: 341 344 Overdress for Mousseline des Indes Dress, 1: 311 313 Overdress for Reception Dress, 1: 329 332 Overskirt for Beige and Satin Dress, 1: 308 309 Overskirt for Beige Dress, 1: 283 285 462

Patterns by Method Overskirt for Cashmere Dress, 1: 293 294 Overskirt for Directoire Basque and Round Skirt, 1: 299 301 Overskirt for Foulard Dress, 1: 305 307 Overskirt for Grosgrain Dress, 1: 291 292 Overskirt for Habit Suit, 1: 288 290 Overskirt for Percale Dress, 1: 295 298 Overskirt for Summer Dress, 1: 302 304 Overskirt for Traveling Costume, 1: 279 280 Overskirt for Traveling Suit, 1: 281 282 Pannier Bustle with Petticoat, 1: 65 67 Pannier Mantle, 2: 232 234 Plain and Plaid Percale Dress, 1: 359 363 Polonaise for Batiste Dress, 1: 316 319 Polonaise for Country Suit, 1: 336 340 Polonaise for Grenadine Dress, 1: 323 325 Polonaise for Grosgrain and Damask Dress, 1: 326 328 Polonaise for Wool and Surah Satin Dress, 1: 333 335 Redingote for Sateen Dress, 1: 202 204 Removable Petticoat Train, 1: 117 Sacque for Morning Gown, 1: 124 126 Sacque for Skating Suit, 2: 147 148 Satchel with Spanish Embroidery, 2: 355 356 Sateen Dress, 1: 394 398 Satin and Brocade Evening Dress, 2: 86 89 Satin and Tulle Ball Dress, 2: 52, 56 60 Satin Ball Dress, 2: 52 55 Satin Bridal Toilette, 2: 98 101 Satin Dress, 2: 67 71 Satin Duchesse and Brocade Reception Dress, 2: 82 85 Satin Merveilleux Blouse with Velvet Bodice, 1: 223 226 Satin Merveilleux Bridal Toilette, 2: 102 106 Scarlet Flannel Bathing Suit, 2: 139 141 Scotch Plaid Dress, 1: 364 368 Shirred Mantle, 2: 242 243 Sicilienne Visite, 2: 235 237 Swiss Muslin Bridal Dress, 2: 92 97 Swiss Muslin Cap, 2: 272 Tulle Evening Dress, 2: 61 63 Velvet and Brocaded Gauze Evening Dress, 2: 64 66 Velvet and Cashmere Dress, 1: 376, 382 385 Velvet and Lace Collar and Cuff, 2: 286 287 Velvet and Satin de Lyon Basque, 1: 205 207 Velvet Basque, 1: 259 262 Watteau Basque Dress, 1: 399 404 White Serge Bathing Suit, 2: 139 141 Worth Mantle, 2: 227 228 463