WORKWEAR FOR PROTECTION FROM STEAM AND HOT WATER: THE DESIGN PROCESS AND MOCK-UP DEVELOPMENT

WORKWEAR FOR PROTECTION FROM STEAM AND HOT WATER: THE DESIGN PROCESS AND MOCK-UP DEVELOPMENT Sihong Yu *, Megan Strickfaden, Elizabeth Crown University of Alberta, Edmonton, Canada *Corresponding author s email: sihong@ualberta.ca ABSTRACT People working in the Western Canadian oil industry are often exposed to adverse working environments, hazardous materials and dangerous equipment. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is essential for worker protection. Industry reports reveal an increase in the number of steam and hot water burn injuries in recent years which indicates that the current protective work-wear system is inadequate to fully protect the worker. The focus of the research herein is to apply the functional apparel design process to guide in designing a new outer layer work-wear for workers performing hazardous tasks that involve steam and hot water exposure. The process includes analysis of photographs taken during site visits, precedent garment observation, and focus group analysis with manufacturers and oil industry safety advisors. This paper reports on the key stages taken in the design process, and includes design recommendations and a half-scale mock-up of the workwear that was developed. Key Words: Oil Industry; Garment System; Hot Water & Steam Hazards; Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) 1. INTRODUCTION People working in the Western Canadian oil industry are often exposed to adverse working environments and hazardous materials and equipment, such as flash fire and radiant thermal exposure, chemical drills, extreme temperatures inside and outside oil refining and extraction plants. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) plays a highly important role in protecting and assisting workers in performing routine and specialized tasks. Recently, industrial highpressured steam and hot water have been extensively used to extract and produce oil from oil sands and in oilfields producing heavy oil (Strickfaden et al., 2010). Usually confined in the pipes on oil extraction or refining sites or in the field, the steam used is under extreme pressures up to 13,500 kpa and temperatures as high as 375. In addition, industrial hot water is normally 80 to 90, which is enough to cause partial thickness burns (Crown & Dale, 2005; Fennel, 2009). In the industry setting a garment system is typically a major component of the PPE that consists of several layers: an under layer of shirt and pants, an outerlayer of coverall or uniforms, and sometimes an additional layer of outer workwear for extra protection. While a long established garment system in this industry has been accepted with an emphasis on protection from flash fire hazards, reports from industry indicate an increase in steam and hot water burn injuries (Fennel, 2009; Enform, 2010). The work herein follows the belief that with a better understanding of current PPE and access to improved protection against such hazards, there will be fewer injuries. Our proposal towards workwear for protection from steam and hot water began with investigations that were initiated by an industry advisory group in two western Canadian provinces. The safety advisors are responsible for developing safety standards and guidelines, safety training, on-site inspection and more. Our explorations into protection from steam/hot water began through fieldwork that examined the experiences of working in extraction and refinery plants and working in the oilfield (Strickfaden et al., 2010). This research involved conducting observations and interviews among and with workers and industry safety advisors in the work environment. Some of the findings of this preliminary study identified specific tasks that exposed workers to steam and hot water, which include steam quality sampling,

opening traps and high pressure steam valves, spraying steam onto wellheads, and more (ibid). Further research on the particular work environment included identifying areas of the body that are most vulnerable and then creating design specifications towards new safety standards (Yu et al., 2012). With the help of the industry advisory group, we established two levels of garments systems in order to proceed with mock-up and prototype development. These are: level 1 for routine tasks throughout a worker s shift where the current PPE would be replaced by new PPE that protected from the usual hazards (e.g., flash fire) and steam/hot water; and level 2 where an added layer would be worn, for short durations only, during very specific tasks involving steam/hot water. Continuing from this earlier research, the work reported herein focuses on the design and development of an outer layer work-wear for the level 2-garment system. This work focuses on research and design: to further identify and understand the functional, comfort and aesthetic requirements/needs of potential wearers; to develop detailed design criteria that can be applied to protection from steam and hot water; applying the functional apparel design process towards developing mock-ups of the level 2 workwear in preparation for prototype development. 2. FUNCTIONAL APPAREL DESIGN PROCESS There are many theories and models on how designers engage in the design process; however, in the case of designing functional and protective clothing, two principal sources seem to dominate the industry (Orlando, 1979; Watkins, 1995). Even so, it is acknowledged in our research that a user-centred approach is paramount to getting a more holistic view of the design problem. That is, the user-centred approach allows various lenses on the environment in question and the complexity of the use environment, including exactly how a person interacts and directly interfaces with their surroundings and how the designed things they use and wear, support, hinder or fail therein. Orlando s process, with its strategy-control for functional apparel design, is particularly useful for designing functional apparel as evidenced through its implementation in various studies such as the design of protective coveralls (Huck & Kim, 1997), and military flightsuits (Tan et al., 1998). In our case, the design of workwear for oil-industry workers, this process has been adapted with detailed input based on specific needs to understand the complexity of the design problem and seek optimal design solutions. Combined with a usercentred approach, our adapted design process aims to aid in the research, development and plan of a design outcome that fulfills many needs within a specialized work environment, including protection, functional fit, comfort and aesthetic considerations. Within the scope of this paper, it is not possible to report all the stages of the design process. As a consequence, we focus on how and what we further identified and consequently understand about the functional, comfort and aesthetic requirements/needs of potential wearers towards developing the level 2 garment system mock-up. Three key strategies were used: visual analysis of photographic documentation, an in-depth analyses of information from earlier fieldwork (Yu et al., 2012), precedent garment observation of work-wear and sportswear, and focus group interviews with manufacturers and industry safety advisors. These strategies were used at different stages of the functional apparel design process, which contributed to a better understanding of the design context and helped us to work towards an optimal workwear design.

3. METHODS TOWARDS THE DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN CRITERIA At one point of the design process, the development of design criteria is helpful where all the factors influencing the design outcome will be itemized into design specifications, and will be ranked and weighted to determine priorities (Orlando, 1979; Watkins, 1995). In order to develop design criteria for our research, multiple perspectives were taken: analysis of photographs; precedent garment observation; although the focus group interviews focused on the design evaluation, the ideas and comments obtained were also reflected in the criteria. 3.1 Photographic Evidence More than six hundred photographs were taken during fieldwork done at two oil processing and extraction plants and two remote oilfield sites in the provinces of Alberta and Saskatchewan (Strickfaden et al., 2010). These photographs document work procedures in situ, workers wearing their PPE, common work practices and the details of oil workers culture. Through the analyses of these photos, a broad perspective is illustrative of this culture and includes the environment or work milieu (e.g., work setting, equipment placement, tasks and duties) and how workers (male and female) interact with this workplace while wearing their PPE. Aspects of the micro or near environment, such as body position relative to work environment, worker movements, range of motion and the general performance of workwear are illustrated through the photographic documentation. Based on the photographs, a series of typical body positions that workers take in the work environment were established. These are illustrated in figure 1 showing stance, potential stress areas on clothing, and vulnerable parts of the body as the workers engage in typical/routine tasks such as standing, crouching, stretching overhead, and climbing under vessels while being exposed to high-pressured steam valves, defrosting outdoor valves or loading hot water. Figure 1. Illustration of eight different tasks with body positions It is clear from our diagram that the body positions and range of motion for workers is complex. Although some tasks require relatively static positions, others require movements that may be considered unconventional. For example, crawling under a vessel with limited clearance not only puts a worker in a compromising position in terms of exposure (e.g., hot water can splash or pour on top of him/her), it also places strain on the apparel worn. When

further analyzing exposure and vulnerability, we noted that in most cases the worker s neck, wrists, torso, and ankles were at the highest risk. In an ideal situation when considering exposure to steam and hot water, workers would be covered head to toe and all interfaces between garments and other PPE (e.g., gloves, goggles, headwear, boots) would not have any gaps. At all times, workers need to work to advanced levels of mobility where they are free to stretch and crawl as needed. Through in-depth analysis of photographic evidence, we discovered a great deal of information that aids in the development of criteria for designing an improved workwear. 3.2 What Others Have Done Well Already Precedent-based design is a method of incorporating prior design work such as artifacts and existing materials into a new design. This method helps in analyzing and interpreting the design problem to come up with innovative solutions. In our case, it was beneficial to look towards precedent garments such as sportswear, outerwear, uniforms and coveralls currently available on the market, with the goal of seeking adaptable and transferrable design features that could be integrated into our designs. Four clothing retailers in Alberta, and one collection of firefighter gear were selected and assessed. A total of fifteen garments were selected and documented because of unique features and designed-in details that began to get at some of the issues established in our project. Within the garment complement were nine pieces of industry workwear, four pieces that are considered sportswear, and two sets of firefighter gear. More than three hundred photographs of these garments were taken in order to document front and back views, collar detail, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, waists and waistbands, leg detail, and closure systems. In addition to photographs, an observation sheet was used to systematize the observation by documenting all the garment features, the functional fit as well as the garment finishing (Yu et al., 2011). Further analyses was completed on the data with a focus on adaptable features such as interior cuffs and pant legs, features of particular interest because these need to have superior interfaces with gloves or boots in order to protect from steam and hot water. In the oil industry, protective gloves are commonly worn for tasks such as steam sampling, spraying steam onto wellheads and loading hot water; steam and/or hot water is likely to run into the sleeves if no proper interface with sleeve or closure is provided. Incorporation of an interior cuff design is a good choice in providing a system of overlap between the sleeve and the glove, in essence making a three-layered system. Variations of interior cuffs are very popular in sportswear and some workwear designs in the form of knitted, fabric or neoprene cuffs with adjustable hook and pile or snap closures (see Figure 2). Design features like these can be adapted into our design to achieve better protection as well as improved functional fit. Figure 2. Variations of interior cuffs Besides these design features, details such as pocket placement and venting were also examined from the precedent garments. Large storage pockets with flap closure on the front of the garment were the typical ones, and smaller pockets such as radio pocket, chest pocket

and watch pocket were also of interest for easier access or designated function. Venting detail was mostly found in sportswear at the underarm and back areas in the form of zipper openings, mesh materials or detachable sleeves. Venting on a level 2-garment system is deemed important since current protection in the form of a long overcoat is not breathable and is so heavy that it is only wearable during the winter season. Overall, the precedent garment observation allowed us to systematically select, compare and analyze different types of functional apparel, by looking at the range of work-wear available on the market; garments unrelated to work-wear such as sportswear provides the opportunity to compare and contrast different garment types. This comparison and contrast allows a deepening understanding of the function of garments in order to design a system that more meets the expectations of oil workers. 4. METHODS TOWARDS DESIGN AND EVALUATION Based on our analyses of photographs and precedent garment observation, the essential details of a garment system were mapped out. It was determined that the level 2 system would include a jacket and a pair of pants that could be worn over the existing coveralls. This twopiece combination is designed to work together as a set. That is, overlaps between the two pieces are taken into consideration to optimize protection and comfort. There are improved interfaces between sleeve cuffs and gloves, and pant legs and boots. Following the development of a half scale mock-up, we had an industry-involved focus group evaluate the design so we could move towards prototype development. 4.1 Mock-up Development Based on the data we obtained, it was decided to use a combination garment system of hiplength jacket and high-waisted pants with emphasis on proposed details of pocket placements, closure systems and ventilations (see Figure 3). This design aims to improve fit around key areas such as shoulder, waist and crotch, as well as to provide sufficient level of mobility and adequate garment interfaces. Figure 3. Design sketches and mock-ups Various innovative and functional features are integrated into this design. That is, to improve upper body protection, a stand-up collar with hook and pile closure is included to cover the lower face and neck, an interior cuff is used to protect the wrist and arms, a sports-style dropped hem is added to better accommodate body movements. Additionally, an adjustable waist tab is designed to cinch at the waist and ease is added under the arms to allow for layering of undergarments. To improve lower body protection, especially around the ankles and at the crotch, a high-waisted pant is designed to accommodate more body shapes (men and women), which includes a vest-style strap that prevents sliding off the shoulder; and a

panel is inserted at the crotch for added ease. Also, improvement of donning and doffing is another designed-in aspect, which resulted from observing workers struggling to get an outer layer of garment on and off (Yu et al., 2012). A gusset at the pant hem is therefore incorporated with an adjustable tab closure for donning the pants without taking boots off. This allows workers to take their outer-garment on and off multiple times throughout a day. Finally, the overall design features the rugged look and feel of industrial work-wear. Added to this is a sports-style detailing that is not currently used within industry. By adding this sporty aesthetic, the work-wear is taken to another level where it becomes a garment that has a broader appeal and may encourage wearing the garment system more often. Although the mock-up design of the level 2-garment system is a significant step forward, it is necessary to evaluate the design to ensure it meets safety and manufacturing standards. 4.2 Focus Group Evaluation We used two focus groups to evaluate the preliminary design. The first focus group consisted of eight apparel design experts; the second focus group had nine industry-related participants. The second focus group included two oil industry safety advisors, four textile and apparel manufacturers, and three protective clothing sales representatives. They are also stakeholders in the project. The protocol for the focus groups involved using a set of prepared documents and the half-scale mock-up of the jacket and pants system. The focus of the exercises were to critically evaluate the jacket and pants system within the context of manufacturing and industry expectations. Researchers demonstrated the design and explained the purpose of specific design features. Each participant closely examined the mock-up to see construction details and had the opportunity to comment on and critically review the design. Participants responded verbally, and in writing, about the pros and cons of the proposed design. The features considered most innovative on the jacket were the interior cuffs, the venting detail at the back, and the dropped hem. The interior cuffs were valued because they were perceived to be an improvement on what was considered to be the weakest point of garments currently available. To improve on the interface between the gloves and jacket sleeve, a thumb hold is placed on the cuff to keep it in place and making it easier to put on. This detail was highly debated and eventually considered to be worthwhile as long as it was worn only when needed. Venting in the jacket was also considered important due to the potential of heat exhaustion that can occur during the summer months. The venting design was originally at both underarm and back area using breathable materials covered with a single-layered flame resistant (FR) fabric, however the safety advisors pointed out that the underarms were vulnerable to steam/hot water exposure and suggested to keep all the venting system at the back. In addition, the venting needs to work in combination with the pants, which means that the positioning in the mock-up is not optimized and needs further refinement. The length of the jacket was also considered carefully since the proposed length is not one currently used within this industry. The sports-style dropped hem was considered to support mobility while providing protection, provided the jacket is worn in combination with the pants at all times. For the pant, the most desired feature was the gusset at the pant hem to allow for workers to don and doff the garment without removing their work boots. The highwaisted pants were much debated since the styling, particularly the vest detail at the shoulder, was very unusual in this industry. The cost of producing the vest detail was discussed in depth and the manufacturers determined that this could be a special order feature since it would add to the cost of the garment.

The two groups determined that the jacket venting and pockets of both garments needed to be considered carefully as a system with both worn together. That is, venting on the jacket needs to match up with areas protected by the pants. Pockets on the pants were considered to be redundant because of the numerous pockets on the jacket. For instance, participants noted that slit pockets on the outside of the large patch pockets on the jacket would collect water during the hot water exposure and should be removed from the design. Bellow pockets at the sides of the pants were also seen as unnecessary since they would be covered by the jacket and cumbersome to use. Venting on the pants was suggested (along sides or lower part of pant leg) to avoid heat exhaustion especially on a person s legs in dynamic motion. Moreover, the closure systems on both the jacket and pants were discussed in depth. Hook and pile was considered convenient but not durable in the long-term, especially when considering industrial laundry. Alternately, snaps could be used, however, there would be reduced adjustability and they would need to be covered by fabric layers to prevent heat transfer if they were metal. For the closure on the pant gusset, there was discussion about using a zipper to enclose the extra fabric, however, it was determined that zippers are not appropriate for winter weather since they can ice up. Finally, one major concern was around seam finishes because these are potentially the most vulnerable areas of the garment due to perforations after sewing. Therefore, there is a need to test different seam finishes to determine if there are seams that can better withstand steam and hot water. Although some of the design features remain undecided and the seam finishes still need to be tested, the feedback and comments from the focus groups are a significant step in the design process towards understanding industry expectation and manufacturing potential. Another significant finding from our focus groups is a better understanding of the manufacture of PPE. One factor is that different manufacturers work in different ways. That is, some manufacturers produce a single garment style and other manufacturers customize orders whereby garments are made to order in terms of pocket placement and other minor detailing. In summary, the evaluation phase of our project is one of the most significant parts of our work on this project so far. Evaluation from multiple perspectives allows for deep critical reflection about preliminary design ideas. More importantly, however, evaluation allows for further refinement, and in this case, informs the development of a specific design criteria that can be applied to our project or more generically to other similar projects. 6. CONCLUSIONS AND FUTURE WORK This research follows the functional apparel design process to develop improved workwear that meets the growing needs of workers for better protection against steam/hot water. This paper reports on research and design that includes analyses of photographic documentation of the cultural environment, precedent garment observations of PPE and sportswear, and two focus group evaluations of a preliminary mock-up design. Based on work completed so far, a design criteria for a level 2 garment system is established including an interaction matrix. The take away messages from this research are the preliminary design and design criteria that can be applied generically to other PPE that protect from steam and hot water. In addition to this, we have provided a reflection on the design process as it applies to protective clothing. The next phase of our work begins with testing of possible seams that can be used in the design of garments that protect from steam/hot water. Following this, the design will be refined and a prototype will be made together with a manufacturer. Finally, field trials using this full-scale prototype will be carried out with the aim of further evaluating the design.

These field trials focus on discovering actual use of the garment system, tracking issues related to fit and comfort, and understanding individual preferences. Safety advisors and workers (male and female) from the oil industry are targeted to report on how the garment system performs within the work activities in the actual environments. Additional future research also includes evaluating wearers physiological comfort in a laboratory setting (e.g., to determine physiological strain while wearing the garment system) and the development of a level 1 coverall as part of the garment system. ACKNOWLEDGMENT This research was funded by Nexen Inc., Imperial Oil Resources Ltd., Apparel Solutions Inc. and Devon Energy. The authors are thankful for all the financial support, industry involvement, as well as all the participants who took part in the focus group and those who agreed to volunteer for the evaluation stage. Acknowledgement also goes to the China Institute of the University of Alberta for providing travel grants for the authors to attend the 2012 BIFT-ITAA joint symposium. REFERENCES Crown, E. M., & Dale, J. D. (2005). Protection for workers in the oil and gas industries. In Scott, R. (Eds.), Textile for Protection (pp. 699-713). Cambridge, UK: Woodhead Publishing. Enform. (2010). Worker Suffers Severe Burn to Foot, Safety Alert #27-2010 Oct 487 27, Enform Safety Alerts, Calgary, Alberta, Canada, 2010. www.en- 488 form.ca/publications/safetyalerts (Last accessed November, 2011) Fennel, D. J. (2009). Flash and splash: protective equipment for our workers. Presented at the 58 th Annuanl Petroleum Safety Conference, Banff, Alberta, Canada. Huck, J., & Kim, Y. (1997). Coveralls for grass fire fighting. International Journal of Clothing Sciences and Technology, 9(5), 346-359. Orlando, J.Y. (1979). Objectifying apparel design. Combined proceedings, Association of College Professors of Textiles and Clothing, Inc., Eastern, Central and Western Regional Meetings, USA, 127-132. Strickfaden, M., Olsen, S., & Crown, E. M. (2010). Clothing for protection against steam and hot water: Exploring user needs. 67 th International Textile and Apparel Association Proceedings. Montreal, Canada. Tan, Y., Crown, E. M., & Capjack, L. (1998). Design and evaluation of thermal protective flightsuits. I. the design process and prototype development. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 16(1), 47-55. Watkins, S. M. (1995). Clothing: The portable environment (2 nd ed.). Iowa State University Press. Yu, S., Glasper, M., Strickfaden, M., Crown, E., & McQueen, R. (2011). Methodology for using precedent-based clothing design. 68 th International Textiles & Apparel Association Conference Proceedings. Philadelphia, USA. Yu, S., Strickfaden, M., Crown, E., & Olsen, S. (2012). Garment specification & mock-ups for protection from steam and hot water. Journal of ASTM International: 9 th Symposium on Performance of Protective Clothing and Equipment: Emerging Issue and Technologies [In progress].