Issue #45 January 20 th 2016 Mykita's island Mark Borthwick has choosen the Mediterranean for the new campaign of the Berlin based brand pg. 4 Ermenegildo Zegna inside Brookfield Place pg. 5 Internationalization via ICE Roberto Luongo, General Director of ICE, the Italian Trade Agency, talks exclusively to WMIDO pg. 2
Internationalization via ICE Roberto Luongo, General Director of ICE, the Italian Trade Agency, talked exclusively to WMIDO about the synergy created with the Italian fashion industry and Mido-Anfao. What does ICE do to foster the internationalization process for the fashion system? Sharing and operating synergies with entrepreneurial and trade associations. With this approach the Government is promoting strong coordination also among the other sector s main players: the Camera della Moda, Milan, Pitti Immagine, Ente per la Moda, Florence, the three districts of Como, Prato and Biella, Rome and Sistema Moda Italia (SMI). The result is a plan for fashion with significant funding. How does ICE support the eyewear sector? For some years now and in close collaboration with Anfao-Mido, ICE has been supporting the Italian eyewear industry in foreign markets through a packed program of promotional actions dedicated to our companies. The first step is the yearly identification of countries that will be targeted by an action. Focus on countries intersects with deciding what kind of promotion is most suitable for the selected market and the special characteristics of the eyewear segment. In mature markets or those that host important exhibitions, ICE s action generally focuses on setting up an Italian collective that underscores the quality and exclusive image of Made in Italy products. In newly-developing countries, actions are targeted with a workshop-independent exhibition, professional meetings between participating Italian companies and buyers from the host country and neighbouring markets. At Mido ICE organizes the incoming of operators from markets that are strategic for the sector. What were the main actions in the opticseyewear sector in 2015? For Mido 2015, the showcase for Made in Italy, we invited about 170 buyers and journalists to Milan and presented to them the best of our products in a packed program of events that occupied the delegations for about three days. In March, we curated the Italian pavilion at Vision Expo East in New York City, which involved 25 companies; in Miami in October we strengthened North American actions with a two-day workshop in which 30 Italian companies took part. In May, actions were dedicated to centre-east Europe through a workshop held in Zagreb with 25 Italian producers in attendance and 154 buyers from all the countries in the area, including the Balkans and markets close to central Asia. In August, we sounded out the Swedish market and for the first time accompanied 21 companies to the Optikmassan exhibition in Stockholm. 2015 closed in November with the traditional appointment in the VOS excellence area at the Optical Fair in Hong Kong, which this year hosted 23 Italian companies thanks to ICE. What about future programs? We are already working on support actions for the next Mido. We are counting on bringing numerous delegations of buyers. Italy s official participation at the next Vision Expo East in New York City is already at an advanced stage. Without a doubt, we will repeat the appointment in east Europe in spring and the Optical Fair in Hong Kong. Together with Anfao we are also defining other possible areas for action between now and 2017. world weekly wonders WMIDO 2
Nature according to Tarian While father Alain Mikli announces his return to eyewear following the sale of the brand to Luxottica, his son Jérémy Tarian is presenting us with a new advertising campaign. Uniqueness is in the family DNA and Tarian (the name of Mikli Jr. s brand), after having transported us last year to the 1950s with images in which feet were transformed into hands, this year has turned its attention toward nature, reinventing pure materials such as ivory, marble, and semiprecious stones in polished acetate. The 2016 «Think Tarian» campaign is brought to life with images where the models posing against a solid colour background sport eyewear made of natural materials. The true frame is not worn, but rather delicately perched neck high. Charmant USA launches new Awear Brand Eyewear is intelligent At the CES in Las Vegas, the largest tradeshow of innovations, Luxottica and Intel presented a world preview of the result of their collaboration, announced back in 2014: «radar pace», the prototype of intelligent glasses sporting the Oakley brand, equipped with coaching in real time with vocal activation. It doesn t actually exist as real eyeglasses yet, but undoubtedly represents a first step towards the future. Equipped with an integrated chip and earpiece, it was conceived to provide runners, cyclists, and sports enthusiasts immediate feedback and analysis in order to monitor their progress and improve performance in real time. The technology is provided by Intel, while the design is credited to Luxottica, which at this time has not yet made an official comment. Maya Hayuk for Max Mara Charmant USA has announced the launch of Awear, a new eco-friendly eyewear brand developed in Japan and designed by Yosuke Shimano. In the inaugural collection of optical glasses and sunglasses all of the glasses' frames and sun lenses are made with sustainable materials - the frames themselves are created from recyclable bio-based plasticis completely eco-friendly. And since the bio-based plastic is made from a plant-based material, the glasses are also said to absorb CO2 emissions. The temple pieces for each pair of glasses are hand-assembled, ultimately making the process more energy efficient. The frames are also designed with a high-chemical resistant material that eliminates the need for spray coating pieces, a factor that reduces overall water usage in production. Even the demo lenses are biodegradable and are made from a carbon neutral material called polylactic acid (derived from renewable resources like corn starch). Max Mara collaborated with the artist Maya Hayuk to celebrate the Autumn/Winter 2015-2016 eyewear collection. The name of the project, Optiprism, recalls the Italian word ottimismo (optimism) while playing with the English terms optical and prism, which are the basic concepts of vision and prism. The new distinctive detail of these Max Mara sunglasses and optical glasses is interpreted as the multi-faceted element and protagonist of a painting that will cross three continents over the coming months, with exclusive events in the United States, China, and Italy. The prism is the multi-faceted emblem of the contemporary Max Mara woman: born of the combination of round and square forms, it reflects the harmonious balance between femininity and downto-earth common sense, aesthetics and functionality, instinct and rationality. Maya Hayuk conceived a modular diptych to be assembled in different ways to obtain a variety of configurations and present three different paintings in the three cities involved: New York, Beijing, and Milan. world weekly wonders WMIDO 3
Photos of an island Since 2003, Mykita, the Berlin eyewear brand with the innovative patented hinge, has been making eyewear for the high-end market. Technology, design and constant product development are its distinguishing characteristics. The 2016 advertising campaign takes us to a Mediterranean island at the height of summer. Eyes squinting to gaze up towards the sky in the searing mid-day heat, feet moving in cool crystalline waters, a deep breath suggests a taste of salt in the air: the campaign is an anthem to summer. All the photographs are shot by Mark Borthwick on his trusted analogue Leica camera that is now 25 years old. A tribute to Eileen Gray Following the capsule collections inspired by Frida Kahlo and Elsa Schiaparelli, Catuma pays homage to the modern vanguard of Eileen Gray, another strong woman who changed history with her very being, her art, and her going beyond the confines of the usual. E- 1027 Tribute to Eileen Gray is a capsule collection whose name derives from her first architectural project, the villa on the French Riviera that she conceived together with her partner at that time, architect Jean Badovici: E stands for Eileen, 10 for the J of Jean (the tenth letter of the alphabet), 2 for the B of Badovici, and 7 for the G of Gray. With a limited edition of just 100, the collection presents a round frame, made more dynamic by alternating full and empty spaces thanks to decorative steel spirals integrated in cork and gold leaf inserts. The temple tips are in violet acetate to adapt perfectly to any face. The Eileen Gray capsule collection is a preview of the ArTchitecture collection that Catuma will present at Mido 2016. Silhouette launches Neubau Eyewear Neubau, the seventh district of Vienna, is a hotbed of innovative ideas and trendsetting in music, fashion and all types of contemporary art. This district is the archetype of a new genre of creative areas, full of enthusiasm, that are developing in cities all around the world, generating their share of curiosity. This is where inspiration was drawn for the name of the new international brand of eyewear, Neubau Eyewear, to be launched worldwide by Silhouette International Schmied in June. The Neubau Eyewear brand perfectly completes the company portfolio, explained Daniel Rogger, CEO of Silhouette. Quality eyewear made in Austria, perfectly capable of meeting the needs of a demanding public. Neubau Eyewear authentically and irresistibly reflects the current spirit of eyewear fashion, added Daniel Liktor, brand manager of the new Vienna-based brand. Turn over design by Mario Milana Maurizio Bottinelli CEO Clessidra Veronique Gabai-Pinsky President Vera Wang Martino Pessina Director of Global Expansion H&M Gaetano Sallorenzo CEO BVM Glenn P. Sblendorio COO & CFO Opththtech Corporation Francesco Trapani President Clessidra world weekly wonders WMIDO 4
Design, fashion & lifestyle Adieu to award-winning designer Richard Sapper After a life spent in Milan, the designer Richard Sapper passed away at the age of 83. In 2014 he won the eleventh Compasso award for his career, during which he combined German rigour and his own genius to design a multitude of extraordinary products of enormous success in highly diversified fields, like the coffee maker for Alessi, the Tizio lamp and creations for Brionvega. Iconic objects destined to become an integral part of our daily live, in and out of our homes. Richard Sapper fame and fortune is also linked to his productive, 18-yearlong collaboration with the architect Marco Zanuso (1916-2001), which resulted in the TS 502 (1963) radio for Brionvega, better known as the Cubo; the K-1340 (1963) children s chair for Kartell; and the Grillo (1966) telephone for Siemens. The last t-shirt of the White Duke The passing of David Bowie left all of us speechless and a devastating void in the world of music. The White Duke left us three days after the release of his last CD: Blackstar. The logo of the album was created by the British artist Jonathan Barnbrook, who used a black star and other components. For this occasion, Paul Smith also intervened as another of the regular collaborators of David Bowie and Barnbrook. The trio was once again reunited for Blackstar with a new creation: the Limited Edition t-shirt Paul Smith for David Bowie, available in both black and white versions. David Bowie was a master of re-invention, an artist, and an extraordinary individual. He will be missed by all, declared Paul Smith. When loden challenges water Schneiders Salzburg continues in its research with the proposals of contemporary variations of the loden par excellence, dubbed "Hubertus". Hence the birth of the "Soft-Loden", the new short version of the classic coat with round shoulders, as interpreted by Technowool, in a wool, viscose, and polyester blend fabric that can resist up to 5000 mm of water, without compromising on the comfort of wearing a natural fibre. And to highlight the retro flavour, a cold dying of the garment was used to obtain the desired fading effect and a refined pilling-effect in an overall chromatic context that is somewhat dampened and less saturated, as if the colour was taken from a vintage photograph. For a total look, the lightly quilted gilet is cut more or less on the lines of the coat, but can be worn separately. A new Ermenegildo Zegna store in New York Ermenegildo Zegna has opened a new store inside Brookfield Place, the new destination for luxury shopping in downtown New York. The store was designed by the Zegna Store Design Team based on the concept store developed by Peter Marino for the brand s Global Store. The store, which covers 298 m², is all on one floor and offers the various proposals of Ermenegildo Zegna displayed in different dedicated areas. Beginning with the Upper Casual collection, complemented by textile accessories, leather goods, perfumes, and eyewear to continue with the complete range of the tailor-made collection. One of the main inspirations for the design of the store are the fabrics that Zegna has been creating for one-hundred years in Trivero, Biella, in Italy. The glass façade overlooking Wall Street is crossed by metal yarns that recall the warp and weft of the fabric, while inside the store nature and technology are combined thanks to the natural colour palette obtained with rosewood, mahogany, gunmetal grey, and bronze hues. Editorial Director: Francesco Gili MIDO Srl Unipersonale Via Petitti, 16-20149 Milano (Italy) Phone +39 02 32673673 P. Iva IT 07164050150 Cod. Fiscale e n. Iscr. Ufficio Imprese di Milano 07164050150 Cap. soc. 120.000,00 i.v. R.e.a. 1710133 Company subject to the direction and the coordination of Anfao - Associazione Nazionale Fabbricanti Articoli Ottici WMido is published in cooperation with Publicomm srl Via Quadrio 20/40-20154 Milano (Italy) P. Iva 02030290999 email: redazione@wmido.com world weekly wonders WMIDO 5