The People's Choice The most popular Omega versus the best-selling Breitling! What makes these watches so fascinating? The latest versions of the Moonwatch and the Chronomat face off against each other in this comparative test of two superlative timepieces BY RÜDIGER BUCHER 38 WatchTime August 2004
All photos by imagina August 2004 WatchTime 39
The legendary Omega Speedmaster Professional and Breitling's equally highly renowned Chronomat are two timepieces that epitomize many people's idea of what a sports watch should be. Each has made history in its own way. Each is a perennial bestseller throughout the world. And both are so avidly sought that each has been expanded into an extensive line of models. The Chronomat, recently given a successful facelift, appears for this WatchTime test in its latest (and largest) variant. "Evolution" is the apt name of the new generation. It's bigger and heavier than ever, yet also delightfully understated - that is, as understated as a Breitling can be. The new case measures 43.5 millimeters in diameter, larger than the 40.5 millimeters of the last iteration and significantly larger than the 39.5 millimeters from a decade ago. The new height is 17.3 millimeters, bulked up considerably from 14.3 millimeters. These generous dimensions enable the Evolution to rival its sister, the "Crosswind." Despite the larger size, the new watch makes a less ostentatious impression than several of its predecessors. In all honesty, the Evolution doesn't have much in common with the Chronomat "UTC," a watch that debuted in 1994 with an elaborate "Rouleaux" wristband into which a second (quartz!) watch was integrated. Today's Evolution takes off on an entirely different trajectory than the one pursued by the blue-gold aesthetic of 1999's Chronomat GT (Großen Totalisatoren, or "big counters"), with its high-gloss polished bezel and comparatively large counters. The counters on the Evolution are quite large, but they look very well proportioned on this 43.5-millimeter case. Impossible-to-overlook numerals and a gray (newly engineturned) dial give the entire watch a contemporary, almost elegant appearance. The typical Breitling feeling comes from the chunky bezel, which also presents some nice options: Admittedly, it doesn't make much sense to shift the position of the "0" or the "30," but interchanging the "15" and the "45" can give the watch an interesting and sometimes very useful countdown function. For example, if you turn the bezel so that the 15 or 20 mark is synchronized with the minute hand, then that hand progresses toward the zero mark. The brushed matte bezel contrasts attractively with all other parts of the case and bracelet, which are polished to a high gloss. The screweddown push-pieces are a new feature. They give this watch an extra measure of reliability and help to keep it water-resistant down to 300 meters. The new push-pieces replace the familiar onion-shaped push-pieces, which we think is a fine idea, as it gives the watch a significantly more modern look. We would have Advantages + Classic design + Excellent legibility + Interesting movement + Good cost-benefit ratio Disadvantages - Stopped fractions of a second aren t legible - Somewhat unmanageable crown preferred a matching flat crown. The domed shape of the crown on the latest version of this watch, however, has a lot going for it: it's in accord with 20 years of tradition, so it's very kind to the wrist and it's readily operable. Omega's Moonwatch makes no attempt to introduce so many new details, and doesn't need to, since the secret of its success lies precisely in its distinctive appearance, a once-in-acentury design that has helped it to ascend to Classic, sporty, elegant: Omega's Speedmaster Professional, the famous "Moonwatch." 40 WatchTime August 2004
Angular, sporty, tough: The Evolution is the latest generation of Breitling's Chronomat. the rarified rank of a genuine cult watch. The watches that fans have nicknamed "Speedy" have appeared in many variants, but thus far there's been only one original Moonwatch. Or has there? We're skating on thin ice with this assertion because for the past two years there's also been a Moonwatch in an updated variant with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal above the dial to replace the Hesalite (plastic) crystal on the original version. This new watch, which also offers a sapphire crystal in the case back, is the one that we've selected to Advantages + Doubly antireflective sapphire crystal + Claps closes reliably + A strong, all-round wristwatch + mature design Disadvantages - A sweater killer compete with the Chronomat in our test of two best-selling wristwatches. Naturally, there are significant differences between the two chronographs. The dissimilarities begin with the design and end with the movements. One timepiece encases a legendary hand-wound caliber, while the other relies on a serially manufactured, self-winding movement that's been fine-tuned to perform at its fullest potential. Of course, we mustn't forget that the Omega/Lemania caliber inside the Speedmaster was originally conceived as a mass-produced movement. The histories of this watch and its caliber have been recounted often enough and in more than adequate detail, so we'll restrict ourselves here to a brief mention of the bare essentials. Let's begin with the nomenclature. The caliber's original name was Omega 861. It was built back in the days when the Lemania movement manufacturer still belonged to SSIH (Société Suisse pour l'industrie horlogère; Omega-Tissot) and it was technically related to the Lemania Caliber 321 (27 CHRO 12), first built in 1942. The Caliber 861 relied on a simpler construction: it made do without a classical column-wheel and also eschewed both a Breguet overcoil and screws on the rim of its balance. The Omega Speedmaster Professional became a best-selling watch after the moon landing in 1969. The movement is inarguably beautiful to look at, but the real reason why this watch has acquired its cult status has to do with the fact that it was rediscovered during the 1980s, when mechanical timepieces returned to fashion and classical hand-wound chronographs were once again in demand. After the separation from SSIH in 1983, Lemania continued to offer this caliber under the designation "1873." It not only appeared at Omega, but was also used by such manufacturers as Breitling, Chronoswiss, and Baume & Mercier in subsequent years. The caliber is widely acknowledged as a cleverly constructed, reliable, not-too-tall, integrated chronograph caliber. Furthermore, it can lay fair claim to being significantly more exclusive than the comparatively ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750. Omega currently sells this caliber under the designation "1861," a number which (by no mere coincidence) calls to mind the 861. The variant inside our candidate bears the number "1863": this number designates a somewhat more elaborately finished caliber, as befits a movement inside a watch with a sapphire crystal in its back, but in all other respects it's identical with the 1861. Breitling opts not to include a transparent case back, reasoning that few watch enthusiasts would go out of their way to take a closer look at the Valjoux 7750. This caliber is so ubiquitous that most connoisseurs have seen enough of it already. On the other hand, we shouldn't forget why this caliber is used so of- 42 WatchTime August 2004
DATA PAGE Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Manufacturer: Omega SA, Jakob-Stämpfli-Strasse 96, CH-2500 Biel Model: Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Reference number: 3573.50 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds; chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters. Movement: Hand-wound Caliber 1863, based on a Lemania 1873 or 861; diameter = 27 mm (12 lignes); height = 6.87 mm; 21,600 vibra tions per hour (= 3 Hz); Glucydur balance; angle of lift of the balance = 50 ; 18 jewels; Incabloc shock absorption; ca. 48-hour power reserve; no stop-seconds function; elaborate finishing on the deluxe version; rhodium-plated components in the movement. Case: Stainless steel, black aluminum ring with tachometer scale; black dial; Superluminova luminous material on indices and hands; threaded screw-in back with transparent pane of sapphire crystal; scratch-resistant sapphire crystal above dial is antireflective on its inner surface; crown isn't screw-down; water-tight to 30 meters. Wristband and claps: Stainless steel with folding clasp. Rate results: (deviations in seconds per 24 hours): with chronograph function switched off on Dial up: +3 +2 Dial down: +5 +4 Crown up: +4 +9 Crown down: +4 +6 Crown left: +3 +3 Crown right: +7 +6 Greatest deviation of rate: 4 7 Average deviation: +4.3 +5 Mean amplitude: Flat positions 294 296 Hanging positions 242 251 Dimensions: Diameter = 38.8 mm; height = 14.3 mm; distance between the lugs = 20 mm; weight = 157 grams. Manufactured since: 2002 Price: $3,595 with steel bracelet ($2,795 with Hesalite watch-glass and steel bracelet) ten: because it's so incredibly good! Like the Lemania caliber, the 7750 is generally acknowledged to be one of the sturdiest and most reliable chronograph movements in the world of mechanical watches. Why did the 7750 become so widely distributed, while the Lemania remains an avidly sought rarity? The reason probably has to do with the up-to-date automatic winding system and the central rotor that winds the mainspring in one direction of rotation: these practical features distinguish the Valjoux caliber from its competitor in this The famous hand-wound Omega 1861 (Lemania 1873) has powered the Moonwatch for 35 years. test. If you overlook these fundamental constructive differences, you discover several common denominators. The 7750 is an integrated chronograph caliber rather than relying on a modular addition. Nonetheless, the 7750 makes do without a column-wheel. In its place, a slideway is used to control the chronograph's start, stop, and return-to-zero functions. This solution isn't quite as pretty as a column-wheel, nor is it quite as complex to manufacture and assemble, but it's no less reliable. Breitling uses the designation "Caliber 13" to refer to this movement, and for a good reason, because the 7750 receives a very thorough tuning from many of the roughly 100 watchmakers at Breitling Chronométrie in La Chaux-de- Fonds, Switzerland. Countless post-processing and quality-control steps combine to ensure that all Breitling movements are so good that they can pass the C.O.S.C.'s test and receive official chronometer certification. The most important components (mainsprings and balances) aren't merely spot-checked but individually adjusted. Wheels are carefully measured, balances are poised, and balance-springs are centered. This comprehensive fine-tuning is necessary because Breitling sends every one of Super Size Me: A decade ago the Breitling Chronomat measured 39.5 mm. Today it comes in at 43.5 mm. its movements for official testing - not only the best 85%. Fine-tuning improves each timepiece's rate performance. As is so often the case, Breitling's contestant again achieved top-notch results on our timing machine. The greatest differences among the several positions, a statistic that's also known as "delta," quantified at the very small values of just two seconds with the chronograph function switched on and four seconds with the chronograph function switched off. This gave the Chronomat a slight advantage in stability of rate and reliability over the Omega Speedmaster Professional, which scored delta values of four and seven seconds. The second big difference between the Speedmaster and the Chronomat is in the watch's designs. Breitling's watch has a very big diameter and a rather tall height, and the timepiece's striking design further emphasizes its already hefty dimensions. The Moonwatch, on the other hand, takes a softer-spoken approach, continuing to offer its elegance unchanged for the past 35 years. Anyone who bought one three decades ago and is still wearing it today can rest assured that his watch is still very much up to date. The watch makes a rather slim impression: this is due to the mod- 44 WatchTime August 2004
erate height of the actual construction (well under seven millimeters) and to the design, which emphasizes the slim appearance. The crystal, for example, extends fairly far beyond the rim of the case, thus making the Moonwatch seem even slimmer than it actually is. The disadvantage of this advantage is that the unprotected edge of the crystal is exposed to lateral blows, which can make themselves more painfully evident with a sapphire rather than a plastic crystal. The design of the dial is excellent: slightly recessed counters without peripheral framing and slender white dauphin hands against a black background produce a perfect contrast. A chronograph simply couldn't be more readily legible. This timepiece doesn't offer a date display, but we don't really miss it. There's no stop-seconds function either, but you can compensate somewhat for its absence if you gently turn the crown counterclockwise. The only detail that a designer would probably change nowadays is the black bezel with the tachometer scale. It looks a wee bit antiquated, but changing it would be a sacrilege perpetrated against this timekeeping legend. The placement of the tachometer scale is a good choice. It disburdens Breitling opts not to include a transparent case back, reasoning that few watch enthusiasts would go out of their way to take a closer look at a Valjoux 7750. Breitling's Caliber 13 (Valjoux 7750) has received elaborate fine-tuning, but the extra labor isn't externally visible. the dial, which would otherwise seem too crowded. Why, you may ask, was this scale included at all? The answer has to do with the history of this model, which was originally targeted to appeal to the highly emotional worlds of the automobile and motor sports. Little did Omega know that NASA would later select this watch to accompany Apollo astronauts to the moon. Although the Chronomat looks more modern than the Speedmaster, and despite the fact that its latest face-lift has added further appeal, we still awarded the maximum number of points (15) in the "design" category to the Moonwatch, which thus narrowly defeated its competitor by a single point. How could we not bestow full honors on the face of a watch that has been successful for decades and has never needed to undergo any changes? As far as legibility goes, both the Breitling and Omega each earned highest scores, although in this category too, each watch followed its own distinct path to arrive at the same destination. The contrast on the Speedmaster's dial is unbeatable, but Breitling narrows the gap with a crystal that's antireflective on both its surfaces. Breitling's watch noses DATA PAGE Breitling Chronomat Evolution Manufacturer: Breitling Model: Chronomat Evolution Reference number: Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds; chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters, date display. Movement: Automatic, Breitling Caliber 13, based on an ETA Valjoux 7750; diameter = 30 mm; height = 7.9 mm; 28,800 vibrations per hour; 25 jewels; Incabloc shock absorption; ca. 42-hour power reserve; stop-seconds function; official COSC chronometer certification. Case: Stainless steel; bezel rotates in only one direction and can be immobilized; screw-down, adjustable cursors on the bezel; threaded screwin back; domed sapphire crystal is antireflective on both its surfaces; screw-down crown and push-pieces; water-resistant to 300 meters. Wristband and claps: Stainless steel "Pilot" bracelet with folding clasp. Rate results: (deviations in seconds per 24 hours): with chronograph function switched off on Dial up: +4 +3 Dial down: +5 +4 Crown up: +5 +6 Crown down: +5 +6 Crown left: +5 +6 Crown right: +3 +2 Greatest deviation of rate: 2 4 Average deviation: +4.5 +4.5 Mean amplitude: Flat positions 334 331 Hanging positions 309 289 Dimensions: Diameter = 43.5 (new!) mm; height = 17.3 mm; weight = 212 grams. Variants: Bicolor, yellow gold or white gold (limited series; gold case is water-resistant to 100 meters only) Price: $4,500 ($3,630 with leather strap) out its competitor when called upon to measure intervals with fraction-of-a-second accuracy. The chronograph's seconds-hand passes through eight increments every second (in accord with the pace of the balance), so four intermediate strokes between each of the larger strokes on the big minute-circle along the periphery of the dial is exactly the correct number of subdivisions. The chronograph's secondshand invariably comes to rest either precisely on one stroke or halfway between two neighboring strokes. Watch designers weren't quite such sticklers for detail back in the 1970s. The minute-circle on Omega's Speedmaster Professional is sub- 46 WatchTime August 2004
TEST RESULTS Breitling Chronomat Evolution Wristband and clasp (max. 10 points): 10 Very well crafted; improvements have been made at the strap lugs; a visual and tactile pleasure; clasp closes securely and cannot be opened unintentionally. Operation (5): 4 The crown is easier to grasp than it was in the past, but you need a strong thumbnail to operate the safety bow on the clasp. Case (10): 10 First-rate craftsmanship; the bezel with its screw-down and adjustable cursors is particularly elaborate. Design (15): 14 Mature, modern, and more self-consistent than ever before; an absolute classic among sports watches. Legibility (5): 5 Less than optimal contrast between silver and gray; problem-free legibility at night. Wearing comfort (10): 9 If the watch is strapped closely around the wrist, you'll scarcely notice its large size and heavy weight; the sharp-edged cursors on the bezel, however, are apt to catch on the threads in your sweater. Movement (20): 15 Large series Caliber 7750, but given most elaborate fine tuning; an indestructible and extremely reliable "tractor." Rate results (10): 10 Very good; minor deviations in all positions; strong amplitude. Overall value (15): 13 The first-rate steel bracelet justifies the price; good resale value. TOTAL: 90 points divided in the classical manner with five intermediate strokes between each pair of larger strokes. The balance's frequency (3 hertz = 21,600 vibrations per hour) means that the seconds-hand advances through six increments each second. Hence, the calibrations on the minute-circle don't perfectly match the actual progress of the seconds-hand. We think it would be taking purism a bit too far to insist that Omega alter the subdivisions at this late date. Honestly, who among us really measures intervals to the nearest 1/6th or 1/8th of a second, especially now that we've all become so accustomed to using the decimal system? Therefore, we saw no need to subtract any points because of the minor discrepancy between the seconds-hand and the minute-circle. Nighttime legibility is impeccable on both dials. The luminous material on each continues to glow in the dark for a long time. The large "60" on the Chronomat made it necessary to eliminate the "zero" stroke on the small seconds subdial, a small shortcoming which nonetheless makes itself felt when you try to set this indicator. We judged this to be an acceptable peccadillo. We also noted and pardoned the absence of markings for "1" and "29" minutes and for "1/2" and "111/2" hours. The duration of the stopped interval, however, can be determined by glancing at the other hands. In any case, the new numerals improve the overall impression made by this watch. The difference between the two timepieces is very obvious when you strap them onto your wrist. Omega's wristwatch fits perfectly: it's pleasantly flat too, so your cuff slides smoothly over the case. The clasp opens elegantly and without undue effort in response to gentle pressure from thumb and index finger, but you have to be sure that the clasp actually clicks shut when you close it again. That's not a problem with the clasp on the Breitling: when it's closed, it's really closed. It stays as securely shut as Fort Knox thanks to the elastic effect produced by the folding elements that come to rest atop one another. The safety bow above them really isn't essential: it improves the security from 100% to 1,000%. The downside is that you need a strong thumbnail to flip the bow up again. As is also the situation on the Speedmaster, the clasp doesn't pinch or press un- TEST RESULTS Omega Speedmaster Professional Wristband and clasp (max. 10 points): 9 High quality, very well crafted bracelet; the clasp stays securely closed and is easier to open the clasp on the Breitling. Operation (5): 4 The crown is difficult to pull out when the watch is on your wrist; the push-pieces can be operated without any problems. Case (10): 9 Impeccable; the use of a sapphire crystal has further improved the case. Design (15): 15 The passage of time hasn't adversely affected this design; it fully deserves its status as one of the great classics; a fine combination of sporty looks and elegance. Legibility (5): 5 Stopped fractions of seconds cannot be read, but except for this detail, the legibility is perfect. The time can be read instantly, both day and night. Wearing comfort (10): 10 Very comfortable; you scarcely feel it on your wrist. Movement (20): 15 Classically constructed, mature, reliable chronograph caliber with nice finishing. Rate results (10): 9 Quite good, just as we've come to expect from Omega. Our candidate was adjusted to gain slightly; the amplitude declined in the hanging positions. Overall value (15): 14 Despite several price hikes during the past few years, this watch still sells for an attractive price and its resale value is very high. TOTAL: 90 points 48 WatchTime August 2004
A side view reveals that the Speedmaster isn't quite as slim as it looks when it's seen face on. Simultaneous pressure on two points releases Omega's folding clasp. The new Chronomat fits well even on a small wrist because the lugs curve farther downward than in previous models. Breitling's clasp is extraordinarily reliable and will not open inadvertently. comfortably. Like the rest of the watch, it fits pleasantly on the wrist. Breitling optimized the details here: the lugs curve downward (a detail that's readily visible when the watch is viewed from the side) so the wristband can also fit well around a narrower wrist, a feat that the Speedmaster has always accomplished easily. The Chronomat weighs more than 200 grams. That's a hefty burden, but you'll scarcely feel this watch's weight if the wristband is properly fitted and the watch isn't allowed to slide promiscuously around your wrist. This wristwatch, however, is hardly cuff-friendly. The Chronomat's wristband is perfectly smooth and soft to the touch, but the cursors on its bezel are another story entirely. If you're not careful, their sharp edges might catch on the threads of your sweater. Pilot's watches almost always have bezels that can be rotated in two directions, so we were surprised to find that the bezel on the Chronomat rotates in only one direction. On the other hand, unidirectional rotation for the bezel and water-resistance down to 300 meters combine to make this watch a good choice for a diver. The Chronomat is more an all-round companion than a typical pilot's watch. That's another parallel between it and the Speedmaster, which was never conceived as a pilot's watch, despite its illustrious career in outer space. As our comparative test neared its conclusion, the Omega was able to compensate for its slightly trailing position by outdoing the Breitling in the cost-benefit category. For less than $3,600, you get a wristwatch that, after 35 long years, confidently ranks among the timeless cult watches. It will very likely remain fashionable for the next 35 years too. It's a reliable companion for every day and for a lifetime. The Chronomat's price seems rather high at first glance, but you'll find ultramodern technology and the utmost perfection in every detail when you consider the fine-tuning that's been given to the movement, the elaborately crafted case, and the very high-quality stainless steel bracelet. If this watch seems too costly, you can opt for the version with the leather strap and get yourself a Chronomat for only slightly more money than you would have paid for the Moonwatch. Thus our test ends in a dead heat. A draw. No victors, but two obvious winners. That's a rare event in our watch tests. Each watch has its own specific set of pros and cons, but when we added everything up, both scored the same high number of points. Which wristwatch you choose depends on your individual taste. A Watchmaker s Opinion Master watchmaker Rainer Merath, Ulm, Germany: "Two classic pilot watches encounter each other here. Omega's Moonwatch is surely one of the most timeless of all pilot's watches. Sleekly clear design, good legibility, a sapphire crystal that's antireflective on both its surfaces, and a legendary hand-wound caliber make it a wristwatch that's avidly coveted by people with a penchant for the myth and romance of aviation. Turning our attention to Breitling's Chronomat Evolution, we similarly find one of the most traditional watch series in the world of pilot's watches. Mas- sive construction, water-resistant to a great depth, contemporary design, and a well-tuned Valjoux 7750 (Breitling Caliber 13) make the Chronomat Evolution a reliable and visually appealing companion. Both watches make a good impression in terms of their wearing comfort and operability, although the Omega's slimmer case is more comfortable under a close-fitting cuff. Breitling has created a very ergonomic design that gives its watch a very comfortable feeling despite its greater height. Omega's dial is less cluttered and thus more rapidly legible. Both candidates' rate results were within chronometer norms, although Breitling's wristwatch evoked greater enthusiasm because it posted such extraordinarily good results. This judge couldn't favor one wristwatch over the other. I'm enthusiastic about the Omega because of its legendary hand-wound caliber and timeless design. Breitling's Chronomat Evolution, on the other hand, is an uncommonly water-resistant wristwatch with a self-winding movement: an excellent tool for daily use by pilots." 50 WatchTime August 2004