CHAPTER - III EXPORT PERFORMANCE OF INDIA S GEMS AND JEWELLERY PRODUCTS IN THE GLOBAL MARKET

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4 CHAPTER - III EXPORT PERFORMANCE OF INDIA S GEMS AND JEWELLERY PRODUCTS IN THE GLOBAL MARKET Indian gems and jewellery industry has achieved a premier position in the global market. The products of India s exports of gems and jewellery are acknowledged all over the world for their exquisite craftsmanship. Modern state of the art machinery and computerised operations have lent a cutting edge to gems and jewellery manufacture. Over three million people are directly or indirectly employed in this industry. The industry is one of the important foundations of the export growth of India. It is not only a major exchange earner but also one of the fastest growing sectors. Realising enormous potential of the sector, the Ministry of Commerce, Government of India, declared gems and jewellery as thrust sector for export promotion. The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) is primarily involved in introducing the gems and jewellery products to the international market and promoting exports. To achieve this, the council provides market information to its members regarding foreign trade inquiries, trade and tariff regulations and import duties etc. India captured and increased proportion of this market, and at present, India is the world s leading diamond cutting and polishing centre. In recent times, India has increasingly held a dominant position in the global market in the cutting and polishing of diamond. It is said that 11 out 12 diamond sets in jewellery are cut and polished in India. India is accounting for 65 per cent share of the global polished diamond market in terms of value. Gold jewellery contributes 3 per cent and coloured gemstones and others contribute 2 per cent each, where as rough diamond contributes 3 per cent of total share. The industry is truly global one, with both suppliers and buyers from many different countries. (GJEPC, 21) 1 According to KPMG study, India s growing importance in global jewellery market is expected to reach US $ 28.28 billion in 215. The Geological survey of India has stated that India has a great potential for

diamond deposits. Based on this and independent analysis, some of the diamond exploration companies are making efforts to make India another target destination for diamond exploration. Maharashtra features on the top in the list of potential states for diamond exploration. The present study is based on secondary data from the various published sources and on-line database. The country-wise growth rates and trend values have enabled us to identify the export potential countries into high, middle and low potential categories respectively for the Indian economy. And the product-wise and port-wise growth rates and trend values of these exports have been analysed in terms of value which show significant variations in the categories of the considered products. In addition, growth rates and trend values of gems and jewellery products exports from SEEPZ SEZ, Mumbai also have been analysed in terms of value. The study reveals that India s share in world exports has increased considerably. The study is an attempt to examine the position and growth of gems and jewellery products along with instability in exports. Table-3.1 clearly shows a comprehensive picture of Indian exports of gems and jewellery consisting of different dimensions during the study period 199-91 to 29-1. Column 2 of the Table vividly shows that national exports have been continuously increasing with 17.82 per cent Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR). In addition, its annual trend values Rs. 39,974.6 crore are almost statistically significant at α =.1. Similarly, column 3 reveals total gems and jewellery exports with parenthetical as the percentage of total exports. The total gems and jewellery exports in absolute term is continuously increasing but with certain fluctuations. Its CAGR and trend values are 16.59 per cent and Rs. 5,622.59 crore respectively. But their percentage share in total national exports shows minor decline from 16.47 per cent to 16.44 per cent during the study period. This decline is insignificant and not a matter of serious concern for industrial sector of Indian economy. Further, column 4 and 9 of the Table portray the diminishing rate of cut and polished diamonds and synthetic stones exports respectively in percentage with respect to total gems and jewellery exports. 41

Table 3.1 India s Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 (Values in Rs. Crores) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 11 12 Year Total National Exports Total Gems and Jewellery Exports 199-91 32527.28 536 (16.47) 1991-92 4441.81 7234 (16.42) 1992-93 53688.26 953 (17.7) 1993-94 69748.85 12943 (18.55) 1994-95 82673.41 14637 (17.7) 1995-96 16353.4 18145 (17.6) 1996-97 118817.3 18521 (15.58) 1997-98 131.6 2559 (15.8) 1998-99 139751.8 2638 (18.63) 1999-15995.2 35171 (22.1) 2-1 21356.5 35273 (17.51) 21-2 2918. 35862 (17.15) 22-3 255137.3 44232 (17.33) 23-4 293366.8 55726 (18.99) 24-5 375339.5 7239 (18.71) 25-6 456417.9 73583.24 (16.12) 26-7 571779.3 7743.24 (13.54) 27-8 655863.5 84181.96 (12.83) 28-9 839978. 9561.31 (11.38) 29-1 845534. 13956.4 (16.44) CAGR 17.82 (43.55*) Trend Values 39974.6 (9.46*) 16.59 (3.74*) 5659.22 (11.1*) Cut and Polished Diamonds Exports 4739 (88.41) 6163 (85.19) 8316 (87.5) 1141 (88.15) 12573 (85.89) 1551 (85.42) 14916 (8.53) 16579 (8.64) 2174 (8.93) 2877 (81.62) 2842 (79.49) 28346 (79.4) 34298 (77.54) 39591 (71.4) 574 (71.29) 52126.3 (7.83) 4923.57 (63.58) 57158.62 (67.89) 58792.47 (61.49) 86125.98 (61.93) 14.39 (22.68*) 3529.37 (13.57*) Gold Jewellery Exports 364 (6.79) 75 (1.36) 844 (8.88) 1149 (8.87) 1519 (1.37) 1888 (1.4) 2636 (14.23) 397 (15.6) 3542 (13.6) 4694 (13.34) 522 (14.79) 5538 (15.44) 731 (16.5) 12255 (21.99) 16976 (24.16) 1714.59 (23.24) 2357.7 (3.35) 22379.43 (26.58) 3957.8 (32.37) 4582.12 (32.93) 25.9 (37.51*) 1798.97 (7.4*) Coloured Gemstones Exports 28 (3.88) 257 (3.55) 27 (2.84) 312 (2.41) 442 (3.1) 488 (2.68) 481 (2.59) 49 (2.38) 747 (2.86) 885 (2.51) 924 (2.61) 867 (2.41) 926 (2.9) 818 (1.46) 864 (1.23) 13.43 (1.4) 1112.6 (1.43) 1111.67 (1.32) 1197.58 (1.25) 1358.12 (.97) 9.55 (12.73*) 56.89 (17.29*) Pearls Exports 8 (.14) 1 (.13) 1 (.1) 14 (.1) 15 (.1) 19 (.1) 13 (.7) 15 (.7) 16 (.6) 17 (.4) 12 (.3) 13 (.3) 21 (.4) 19 (.3) 12 (.1) 1.64 (.1) 11.13 (.1) 15.93 (.1) 16.55 (.1) 16.3 (.1) 1.63 (1.74**).2 (1.56) Non-gold Jewellery Exports 15 (.27) 25 (.34) 29 (.3) 23 (.17) 36 (.24) 83 (.45) 13 (.55) 129 (.62) 243 (.93) 21 (.59) 255 (.72) 35 (.85) 41 (.92) 457 (.82) 58 (.82) 644.41 (.87) 789.6 (1.1) 921.33 (1.9) 872.34 (.91) 1952.5 (1.4) 26.92 (21.36*) 67.54 (6.83*) Synthetic Stones Exports Costume/ Fashion Jewellery Exports 2 (.3) 1 (.1) 2 (.2) 1 (.7) 8 (.5) 12 (.6) 9 (.4) 8 (.3) 1 (.3) 11 (.3) 7 (.1) 11 (.3) 5 (.1) 5 (.8) 5 (.7) 5.61 (.7) 3.36 (.4) 4.5 (.5) 5.47 (.5) 6.52 (.4) 3.8 (1.23).1 (.8) 3 (.4) 12 (.12) 18 (.13) 2 (.13) 16 (.8) 21 (.11) 12 (.5) 22 (.8) 26 (.7) 44 (.12) 48 (.13) 46 (.1) 47 (.8) 4 (.5) 53.11 (.7) 35.6 (.4) 22.17 (.2) 4.9 (.4) 72.78 (.5) 13.2 (5.64*) 2.55 (6.1*) Saloes to Foreign Tourists 24 (.44) 25 (.34) 2 (.21) 16 (.12) 24 (.16) 32 (.17) 29 (.15) 49 (.23) 44 (.16) 39 (.11) 56 (.15) 61 (.17) 63 (.14) 83 (.14) 89 (.12) 114.86 (.15) 191.55 (.24) 287.99 (.34) 252.26 (.26) 197.6 (.14) 15.18 (13.49*) 11.64 (6.63*) Rough Diamonds Exports 42 16 (.58) 313 (1.68) 18 (.87) 34 (1.3) 582 (1.65) 713 (2.2) 673 (2.87) 1162 (2.62) 2451 (4.39) 1599 (2.27) 2493.83 (3.38) 2548.76 (3.29) 228.32 (2.7) 3474.94 (3.6) 3525.42 (2.53) 27.3 (11.56*) 255.46 (1.78*) Source: Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India, New Delhi. Note: * The Coefficients are significant at α =.1. ** The Coefficients are significant at α =.1. Figures in parentheses are percentage change. Figures in parentheses in the last two rows are t-values.

43 Interestingly, exports of gold jewellery, non-gold jewellery and costume/ fashion jewellery are continuously increasing with negligible fluctuations. Moreover, exports of pearls and sales to foreign tourists are declining continuously and there is stagnation in the exports of pearls from 24-5 onwards. Column 6 shows that exports of coloured gemstones are on decline except during the year 1991-92. Column 12 displays so many fluctuations in exports of rough diamonds with 27.3 per cent CAGR and Rs. 255.46 trend values. To recapitulate briefly, diminishing trends in the exports of various products of gems and jewellery is a matter of concern to industrial sector of Indian economy and needs immediate attention. Table - 3.2 Growth Rates of the Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 Sr. No. Product Groups CAGR (Values in Rs. Crores) t-value R 2 F-value 1 Cut & Polished diamonds 14.39 22.68*.966 514.8 2 Gold Jewellery 25.9 37.51*.987 147.57 3 Coloured Gemstones 9.55 12.73*.9 162.13 4 Pearls 1.63 1.74**.144 3.4 5 Non-Gold Jewellery 26.92 21.36*.962 456.56 6 Synthetic Stones 3.8 1.23.82 1.53 7 Costume/Fashion jewellery 13.2 5.64*.639 31.92 8 Sales to Foreign Tourists 15.18 13.49*.91 182.16 9 Rough Diamonds 27.3 11.56*.911 133.77 1 Total 16.59 3.74*.981 945.1 Source: Ibid., Table - 3.1 Note: * The coefficients are significant at α =.1. ** The coefficients are significant at α =.1.

Table-3.2 shows the compound annual growth rates of exports of various gems and jewellery products for the period 199-91 to 29-1. The study has trenchantly analysed that rough diamonds exports have the highest growth rate, i.e., 27.3 per cent followed by non-gold jewellery and gold jewellery with 26.92 and 25.9 per cent CAGR respectively. The main reason behind such a high growth rate is the demand from major importing countries of the product like especially from Belgium followed by the USA, the UK, South Africa and Israel etc. The least growth rate has been shown by pearls, i.e., 1.63 per cent. The reason behind such a low growth rate may be that for foreigners their might be no astronomical value of this product as we find in Indian context. It is evident from the table that almost all growth rates have been found statistically significant at α =.1 per cent level of significance. Table 3.3 Trend Values of the Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products during the Period 199-91 to 29-1. Sr. No. Product Groups Trend Values (Values in Rs. Crores) t-value R 2 F-value 1 Cut & Polished diamonds 3529.379 13.57*.91 184.23 2 Gold Jewellery 1798.976 7.4*.752 54.866 3 Coloured Gemstones 56.8945 17.29*.943 299.41 4 Pearls.213 1.56.119 2.436 5 Non-Gold jewellery 67.5481 6.83*.721 46.66 6 Synthetic Stones.125.8.4.7 7 Costume/Fashion jewellery 2.5553 6.1*.667 36.186 8 Sales to Foreign Tourists 11.646 6.63*.79 44.4 9 Rough Diamonds 255.4633 1.78*.899 116.421 1 Total 5659.22 11.1*.872 123.47 Source: Ibid., Table - 3.1 Note: * The coefficients are significant at α =.1. 44

Table-3.3 demonstrates the item-wise trend values of exports of gems and jewellery products for the period 199-91 to 29-1. The highest trend value (using least square method) of Rs. 3,529.379 crore as compared to the total trend value of Rs.5,722.676 crore is shown by cut and polished diamonds followed by gold jewellery and rough diamonds at the second and third place respectively with trend values of Rs. 1,798.976 and 255.4633 crore and statistically significant t-values of 7.4* and 1.78*. On the other hand, the least trend value, i.e., Rs..125 crore and.8* t-value has been displayed by synthetic stones. In conclusion, almost all the coefficients are statistically significant at α =.1 per cent level of significance. The trend value of above mentioned items is a good omen for the growth of Indian economy. Table-3.4 consists the indices and coefficients of variations of gems and jewellery products exports taken in the value terms during the period from 199-91 to 29-1. From the table it can be observed that the indices of the exports of various gems and jewellery products have increased tremendously over the study period. However, the indices of the value of cut and polished diamonds, gold jewellery, coloured gemstones, pearls, non-gold jewellery, synthetic stones, costume/fashion jewellery, sales to foreign tourists, rough diamonds and total of gems and jewellery products ranges from 94.44 to 146.491, 95.22 to 26.43, 88.336 to 152.448, 4. to 143.126, 79.31 to 23.555, 45.454 to 8., 57.142 to 4., 78.117 to 166.768, 57.57 to 295.283, 1.71 to 145.44, respectively. Further, the last row of the Table provides the coefficients of variations of the indices of value of exports of gems and jewellery products for the twenty years and it has been observed that the lowest coefficient of variations in the cut and polished diamonds and the highest coefficient of variations in the synthetic stones (range from 13.458 to 114.777). The highest coefficients of variations in the synthetic stones indicate the increase in the inequality of the exports and showing the presence of diversification of these products export. Such kind of empirical 45

46 Year Table - 3.4 Indices of Value of Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 Cut & Polished Diamonds Gold Jewellery Coloured Gemstones Pearls Non-Gold Jewellery Synthetic Stones Costume/ Fashion Jewellery Sales to Foreign Tourist (Value in Rs. Crores) Rough Total Diamonds 199-91 1. 1. 1. 1. 1. - 1. 1. - 1. 1991-92 13.485 26.44 123.5577 125. 166.6667 1. 15. 14.1667-134.9627 1992-93 134.9343 112.5333 15.584 1. 116. 2. 4. 8. - 131.3658 1993-94 137.254 136.1374 115.5556 14. 79.3134 5. 15. 8. - 136.1991 1994-95 11.1928 132.219 141.6667 17.1429 156.5217 8. 111.1111 15. - 113.882 1995-96 123.288 124.2923 11.472 126.6667 23.5556 15. 8. 133.3333 1. 123.9667 1996-97 96.2265 139.6186 98.56557 68.4215 124.964 75. 131.25 9.625 295.283 12.722 1997-98 111.1491 117.4886 11.8711 115.3846 125.2427 88.88889 57.14286 168.9655 57.5799 111.37 1998-99 127.1126 114.3687 152.449 16.6667 188.3721 125. 183.3333 89.79592 188.8889 126.651 1999-136.22 132.524 118.4739 16.25 86.41975 11. 118.1818 88.63636 171.1765 135.757 2-1 97.68349 111.258 14.468 7.58824 121.4286 63.63636 169.238 143.5897 122.586 1.29 21-2 11.841 16.92 93.83117 18.3333 119.678 157.1429 19.99 18.9286 94.3899 11.6698 22-3 12.9977 131.8346 16.851 161.5385 134.4262 45.45455 95.83333 13.2787 172.6597 123.3395 23-4 115.4324 167.8537 88.33693 9.47619 111.4634 1. 12.1739 131.746 21.9294 125.9857 24-5 126.4782 138.5231 15.6235 63.15789 126.9147 1. 85.1638 17.2289 65.23868 126.435 25-6 14.985 1.7543 119.2627 88.66667 111.152 112.2 132.775 129.562 155.9619 14.7612 26-7 94.44478 137.4357 17.9743 14.653 122.537 59.8935 67.369 166.7682 12.226 15.2281 27-8 116.139 95.2298 99.91641 143.1267 116.6831 133.9286 62.27528 15.3472 89.46782 18.7197 28-9 12.8584 138.3315 17.728 13.892 94.68269 121.5556 184.4835 87.59332 152.3883 113.5758 29-1 146.4915 147.952 113.454 98.48943 223.7717 119.1956 177.9462 78.11781 11.4527 145.447 C.V. 13.458 19.873 13.7431 27.215 31.114 114.7773 55.8241 26.4378 45.5281 11.913 Source: Ibid., Table - 3.1

47 9 8 7 Figure 3.1 Indices of Value of Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 Index Value 6 5 4 3 2 1 Cut and Polished Diamond Gold Jewellery Coloured Gem Stones Pearls Non-Gold Jewellery Synthtic Stones Costume/Fashion Jewellery Sales to Foreign Tourist Rough Diamonds Total 199-91 1991-92 1992-93 1993-94 1994-95 1995-96 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99 1999-2-1 21-2 22-3 23-4 24-5 25-6 26-7 27-8 28-9 29-1 Year Source: Ibid., Table 3.1

results of the exports indices is entirely useful in making the appropriate policies in the field of Indian exports of such products. The respective indices of gems and jewellery products explore a very high potentiality for the India s exports in the global market. Table-3.5 vividly reveals a comprehensive picture of India s port-wise exports of gems and jewellery comprising of different dimension during the study period 199-91 to 29-1. Column 2 of the table clearly shows that total gems and jewellery exports of ports have been continuously increasing with 12.6 per cent Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR). In addition, its annual trend values US $ 1,196.34 million are statistically significant at α =.1. Further, column 3 to 12 of the Table depicts the total gems and jewellery exports of ten ports. Column 8 shows that the diminishing rate of exports from Coimbatore in percentage with respect to total gems and jewellery exports of ports and in absolute term also. Its CAGR and trend values are 23.25 per cent and US $ -.887 million. These ports (clusters) of gems and jewellery have been showing with figures in parentheses as percentages of total ports exports of gems and jewellery in fluctuating nature over the study period. The CAGR and trend values for these ports have also been statistically significant at α =.1. In this way, the Table represents the dynamic as well as progressive pattern of India s exports of various ports. Table-3.6 displays the compound annual growth rates of exports of gems and jewellery by various ports during the period 199-91 to 29-1. The study has trenchantly analysed that Kolkata has marked highest growth rate, i.e., 67.27 per cent followed by Surat and Bangalore with 53.16 and 34.79 per cent CAGR respectively. The least growth rate has been shown by Mumbai, i.e., 1.55 per cent. It is evident from the Table that all growth rates have been found statistically significant at α =.1 per cent level of significance. 48

Table 3.5 India s Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products (port-wise) during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 (Values in US $ Million) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 11 12 Year Total Mumbai New Delhi Jaipur Chennai Cochin Coimbatore Bangalore Kolkata Surat Hyderabad 199-91 2973.75 283.85 81.31 8.91 6.25.52.91 (94.28) (2.73) (2.72) (.21) (.1) (.3) 1991-92 2924.13 2752.52 8.28 75.9 9.2.66 5.53.2 (94.13) (2.74) (2.59) (.31) (.2) (.18) (.6) 1992-93 3265.39 317.39 77.84 62.75 8.43.78 8.61.37 (95.16) (2.38) (1.92) (.25) (.2) (.26) (.1) 1993-94 4134.27 3926.33 128.32 56.12 9.69.86 13.39.42 (94.97) (3.1) (1.35) (.23) (.2) (.32) (.1) 1994-95 4673.47 4411.93 137.18 84.53 14.63 1.66 24.84.36 (94.4) (2.93) (1.8) (.31) (.3) (.53) (.7) 1995-96 5417.8 567.97 176.83 14.72 23.15 3.15 4.58.68 (93.55) (3.26) (1.93) (.42) (.5) (.74) (.1) 1996-97 5249.93 4818.2 (91.77) 1997-98 556.77 511.42 (91.9) 1998-99 621.12 5742.26 (92.6) 1999-8136.4 7585.92 (93.23) 2-1 769.96 6949.7 (91.31) 21-2 741.1 6647.12 (89.81) 22-3 8915.58 869.9 (9.51) 23-4 1161.74 9937.79 (85.65) 24-5 153.7 12937.38 (84.55) 25-6 1676.5 14168.99 (84.81) 26-7 17116.7 13941.78 (81.45) 27-8 2849.72 17396.11 (83.43) 28-9 24771.17 1534.88 (61.78) 29-1 2937.19 15941.61 (54.27) CAGR 12.6 (25.53*) Trend Values 1196.34 (9.63*) 1.55 (23.46*) 78.755 (13.2*) 249.18 (4.74) 253.51 (4.55) 238.62 (3.84) 24.79 (2.95) 297.3 (3.9) 279.3 (3.77) 313.69 (3.51) 495.6 (4.27) 682.66 (4.46) 481.96 (2.88) 471.3 (2.75) 456.76 (2.19) 1522.9 (7.76) 215.77 (9.41) 15.9 (11.9*) 61.629 (4.7*) 112.5 (2.14) 118 (2.12) 147.5 (2.37) 162.95 (2.) 164.94 (2.16) 182.8 (2.46) 218.1 (2.44) 228.85 (1.97) 277.63 (1.81) 356.76 (2.13) 423.9 (2.47) 57.92 (2.43) 52.95 (2.3) 535.17 (1.82) 12.7 (19.85*) 25.55 (1.6*) 16.43 (.31) 14.23 (.25) 14.93 (.24) 19.57 (.24) 2.5 (.26) 21.74 (.29) 28.84 (.32) 4.99 (.35) 16.9 (.69) 146.97 (.87) 175.26 (1.2) 326.13 (1.56) 44.39 (1.63) 538.5 (1.83) 24.52 (11.3*) 19.711 (5.7*) 6.39 (.12) 4.1 (.7) 7.63 (.12) 3.18 (.3) 3 (.3) 5.6 (.6) 6.55 (.7) 6.16 (.5) 8.71 (.5) 8.77 (.5) 6.76 (.3) 24.39 (.11) 34.24 (.18) 54.29 (.27) 21.79 (1.6*) 1.62 (4.32*) 46.49 (.88) 7.55 (.13) 6.38 (.1) 8.66 (.1) 13.7 (.18) 1.29 (.13) 7.3 (.8) 7.54 (.6) 2.95 (.1) 1.35 (.8).58 (.3).91 (.4).6 (.2).88 (.2) -23.25 (-5.87) -.887 (-4.35) 49.52 (.89) 4.45 (.65) 49.83 (.61) 48.44 (.63) 59.77 (.8) 64.43 (.72) 552.19 (4.75) 912.63 (5.96) 122.47 (6.12) 1441.33 (8.42) 177.97 (5.17) 364.86 (1.47) 5.7 (1.7) 34.79 (1.54*) 54.645 (4.4*) 1.2 (.1) 4.59 (.29) 18.47 (.8) 5.36 (.61) 53.88 (.7) 61.88 (.83) 75.94 (.85) 89.27 (.76) 13.13 (.85) 22.36 (1.31) 417.88 (2.44) 651.26 (3.12) 91.99 (3.67) 112.5 (3.44) 67.27 (18.43*) 44.645 (5.3*) 2.24 (.7).94 (.1) 1.25 (.2) 1.15 (.1) 46.69 (.61) 119.11 (1.6) 115.96 (1.3) 233.63 (2.1) 231.49 (1.51) 282.22 (1.68) 225.55 (1.31) 378.88 (1.81) 529.18 (2.84) 689.1 (3.46) 53.16 (8.91*) 46.277 (8.43*) Source: Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India, New Delhi. Note: * The coefficients are significant at α =.1. ** The coefficients are significant at α =.1. Figures in parentheses are percentage change. Figures in parentheses in the last two rows are t-values. 1.8 (.1) 13.63 (.16) 12.71 (.16) 14.21 (.19) 14.87 (.16) 9.72 (.8) 9.59 (.6) 16.2 (.9) 12.63 (.7) 29.39 (.14) 27.17 (.1) 123.86 (.42) 15.35 (3.17*) 5.246 (2.31**) 49

5 Table - 3.6 Growth Rates of the Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products (port-wise) during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 (Values in US $ Million) Sr. Ports CAGR t-value R 2 F-value No. 1 Mumbai 1.55 23.46*.968 55.82 2 New Delhi 15.9 11.9*.887 141.76 3 Jaipur 12.7 19.85*.956 394.21 4 Chennai 24.52 11.3*.871 121.83 5 Cochin 21.79 1.6*.849 11.35 6 Coimbatore -23.25-5.87.758 34.55 7 Bangalore 34.79 1.54*.86 111.2 8 Kolkata 67.27 18.43*.952 339.87 9 Surat 53.16 8.91*.868 79.48 1 Hyderabad 15.35 3.17*.51 1.6 11 Total 12.6 25.53*.973 651.97 Source: Ibid., Table 3.5 Note: * The coefficients are significant at α =.1 The trend values of the gems and jewellery products during the period 199-91 to 29-1 (port-wise) have been displayed in Table-3.7. Mumbai is showing highest trend value (using least square method) of US $ 78.755 million, as compared to the total trend value of US $ 1,196.34 million. New Delhi has got second highest position in trend value with statistically significant t-value (4.7*). On the other hand, the least trend value, i.e., US $ 1.62 million and 4.32* t-value has been displayed by Cochin. In the end, almost all the coefficients are statistically significant at α =.1 per cent level of significance.

Table - 3.7 Trend values of the Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products (port-wise) during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 51 (Values in US $ Million) Sr. Ports Trend t-value R 2 F-value No. Values 1 Mumbai 78.755 13.2*.96 174.26 2 New Delhi 61.629 4.7*.551 22.12 3 Jaipur 25.55 1.6*.862 112.54 4 Chennai 19.711 5.7*.588 25.71 5 Cochin 1.62 4.32*.59 18.71 6 Coimbatore -.887-4.35.633 19. 7 Banglore 54.645 4.4*.518 19.41 8 Kolkata 44.645 5.3*.623 28.19 9 Surat 46.277 8.43*.855 71.2 1 Hyderabad 5.246 2.31**.349 5.37 11 Total 1196.34 9.63*.837 92.73 Source: Ibid., Table 3.5 Note: * The coefficients are significant at α =.1 ** The coefficients are significant at α =.1. Table -3.8 narrates the indices and coefficients of variations of the gems and jewellery exports from various ports in value terms during the period from 199-91 to 29-1. The Table explores that the indices of the exports of various ports have increased tremendously except Coimbatore over the study period. However, the indices of Mumbai, New Delhi, Jaipur, Chennai, Cochin, Coimbatore, Bangalore, Kolkata, Surat, Hyderabad and total of ports ranges from 87.87875 to 132.169, 7.63 to 333.4136, 82.67457 to 15.62366, 7.97192 to 26.79531, 41.67758 to 36.79881, 39.12467 to 158.1986, 33.84695 to 857.386, 85.71428 to 45., 79.91992 to 583.75634, 65.3665 to 455.8744, 93.23634 to 13.12883, respectively. In the end, the last row of the Table shows the coefficients of variations of

Table 3.8 Indices of Value of Gems and Jewellery Exports (port-wise) during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 (Values in US $ Million) Year Mumbai New Delhi Jaipur Chennai Cochin Coimbatore Bangalore Kolkata Surat Hyderabad Total 199-91 1. 1. 1. 1. 1. - 1. - - - 1. 1991-92 98.1693 98.73324 93.8793 147.2 126.9237-262.853 1. - - 98.29173 1992-93 112.8925 96.9664 82.67457 91.6343 118.18181-155.6962 185. - - 111.69715 1993-94 126.3546 164.851 89.43426 114.94661 11.25641-155.5168 113.51351 - - 126.6486 1994-95 112.3678 16.946 15.62366 15.9839 193.2325-185.5116 85.71428 - - 113.5883 1995-96 114.8697 128.936 123.8851 158.2365 189.7593-163.3655 188.88888 - - 115.8714 1996-97 95.684 14.915 17.42933 7.97192 22.85714-114.5638 15. 1. - 96.94872 1997-98 16.689 11.7377 14.88888 86.6986 62.7543 1. 16.5175 45. 87.94642-15.9293 1998-99 112.3638 94.12646 124.61864 14.91918 19.27431 84.5331 81.68417 42.39651 583.75634 1. 111.81757 1999-132.169 1.994 11.81264 131.7836 41.67758 135.7367 123.1891 272.65836 235.8268 155.23918 131.24164 2-1 91.6484 123.3565 11.22123 14.75217 94.33962 158.1986 97.2152 16.989673 172.1676 93.2518 93.23634 21-2 95.65481 93.941 11.82817 16.4878 168.66666 75.1949 123.3898 114.8478 255.1816 111.8173 97.25425 22-3 121.445 112.4216 119.3172 132.65869 129.44664 7.94266 17.7966 122.72139 97.35538 14.64461 12.46436 23-4 123.1464 157.994 14.92893 142.12898 94.458 13.2877 857.386 117.55333 21.47464 65.3665 13.12883 24-5 13.1837 137.7441 121.31527 26.79531 141.3961 39.12467 165.2746 145.771257 99.842 98.66255 131.87737 25-6 19.5198 7.63 128.5196 137.48362 1.68886 45.76271 112.355 169.33835 121.91455 168.92596 19.18936 26-7 98.39643 97.73218 118.81934 119.24882 77.895 42.96296 14.9655 189.63514 79.91992 77.96296 12.4589 27-8 124.7768 96.9747 119.8271 186.8353 36.79881 156.8966 74.78995 155.848569 167.9849 232.69992 121.8922 28-9 87.97875 333.4136 99.2149 123.99656 14.3854 65.9347 33.84695 139.88115 139.66955 92.44641 94.1641 29-1 14.163 132.3639 16.462 133.5225 158.55724 146.6667 137.237 111.9342 13.2234 455.8744 19.232 C.V. 12.18452 45.7672 13.98749 31.51659 49.2131 47.7148 12.8964 56.59452 73.33158 73.72713 11.44361 Source: Ibid., Table 3.5 52

9 Figure 3.2 Indices of Value of Gems and Jewellery Exports (port-wise) during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Mumbai New Delhi Jaipur Chennai Cochin Coimbatore Bangalore Kolkata Surat Hyderabad Total Source:Ibid.,Table-3.5 53 199-91 1991-92 1992-93 1993-94 1994-95 1995-96 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99 1999-2-1 21-2 22-3 23-4 24-5 25-6 26-7 27-8 28-9 29-1 Index Value Year

indices of the value of exports of gems and jewellery products from ports for the study period and it has been observed that the lowest coefficient of variations of Mumbai and highest coefficient of variations of Bangalore (ranges from 12.18452 to 12.8964). This type of analysis of the exports indices is very useful in formulating the appropriate policies about various exports clusters of India. Table-3.9 shows that the total exports of gems and jewellery from India and total exports of gems and jewellery from Santacruz Electronic Export Processing Zone (SEEPZ) SEZ, Mumbai along with value of exports in Rs. crore during the period 199-91 to 29-1. Column 3 of the Table vividly shows that exports of gems and jewellery from SEEPZ have been continuously increasing except in year 29-1 with 22.75 per cent Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) and Rs. 471.18 crore as its annual trend values are statistically significant at α =.1. Similarly, column 2 represents that India s total exports of gems and jewellery in absolute term is continuously increasing. Its CAGR and trend values are 16.59 per cent and Rs. 5659.22 crore respectively. Column 4 shows that the exports from SEEPZ as percentage of total gems and jewellery exports. It has been increasing but with a fluctuating rate. Table-3.1 narrates the indices and coefficient of variations of the total gems and jewellery exports taken in value terms during the period 199-91 to 29-1. The Table explores that the indices of the exports of the gems and jewellery have been in fluctuating nature. Likewise, the indices of gems and jewellery exports from SEEPZ SEZ, Mumbai and total gems and jewellery exports ranges from 11.6698324 to 145.44748, 89.227869 to 25.616355, respectively. Further, the last row of the table gives the coefficient of variations of the gems and jewellery exports over these twenty years in value terms. It has been also observed that the coefficient of variations of exports from SEEPZ, SEZ (21.8661934) is greater than coefficient of variations of total gems and jewellery exports (11.961466). So the comparative picture of exports highlights that there is an increasing trend in exports of gems and jewellery. 54

Table 3.9 Exports of Gems and Jewellery from SEEPZ-SEZ, Mumbai during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 (Values in Rs. Crores) 1 2 3 4 YEAR Total Exports of Gems and Jewellery Exports of Gems and Jewellery From SEEPZ, Mumbai Percentage Change 199-91 536 129.79 2.421455 1991-92 7234 213.2 2.94476 1992-93 953 438.43 4.613596 1993-94 12943 525.79 4.6235 1994-95 14637 732.48 5.434 1995-96 18145 959.3 5.286856 1996-97 18521 1159.25 6.259111 1997-98 2559 1456.1 7.82543 1998-99 2638 28.93 7.991896 1999-35171 2425.84 6.897273 2-1 35273 26.92 7.373685 21-2 35862 2628.96 7.33768 22-3 44232 393.45 8.824946 23-4 55726 522.75 9.13297 24-5 7239 592.65 7.25459 25-6 73583.24 5985.7 8.134597 26-7 7743.24 8289.45 1.757 27-8 84181.96 868.27 1.31132 28-9 9561.31 7745.22 8.1821 29-1 13956.35 7392.31 5.31654 CAGR 16.59 (3.74*) 22.75 (16.49*) Trends values 5659.22 (11.1*) 471.18 (13.28*) Source: Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India, New Delhi. Note: * The coefficients are significant at α =.1. Figures in parentheses are t-values. 55

56 Table 3.1 Indices of Total Exports of Gems and Jewellery during the Period 199-91 to 29-1 (Values in Rs. Crores) YEAR Source: Ibid., Table 3.9 Total Exports of Gems and Jewellery Exports of Gems and Jewellery From SEEPZ, Mumbai 199-91 1 1 1991-92 134.9626866 164.1266662 1992-93 131.3657727 25.8163553 1993-94 136.19995 119.9256438 1994-95 113.881558 139.313711 1995-96 123.9666598 13.966332 1996-97 12.721962 12.8433233 1997-98 111.37255 125.67735 1998-99 126.651289 142.911212 1999-135.756587 116.57487 2-1 1.29117 17.2172938 21-2 11.6698324 11.7881 22-3 123.339468 148.4788662 23-4 125.9857117 128.674634 24-5 126.434985 11.3916679 25-6 14.7612295 117.536569 26-7 15.228927 138.487562 27-8 18.7197457 14.7146674 28-9 113.575779 89.22786964 29-1 145.44748 95.44351226 C. V. 11.961466 21.8661934

57 Figure 3.3 Indices of Exports of Gems and Jewellery from SEEPZ-SEZ, Mumbai during Period 199-91 to 29-1 25 2 15 1 Total Exports of Gem and Jewellery 5 199-91 1991-92 1992-93 1993-94 1994-95 1995-96 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99 1999-2-1 21-2 22-3 23-4 24-5 25-6 26-7 27-8 28-9 29-1 Index Value Exports of Gem and Jewellery from SEEPZ, Mumbai Year Source: Ibid., Table 3.9

58 GEMS AND JEWELLERY INDUSTRY: A GLITTERING SECTOR: The gems and jewellery sector is largely unorganized at present. The industry is dominated by family jewellers, who constitute nearly 96 per cent of the market. However, just as in the case of jewellery, the share of organized sector has increased significantly in recent years due to an increase in demand for better quality finished jewellery products. And, India was one of the first countries to start making fine jewellery from minerals and metals and even today, most of the jewellery made in India is hand-made. Figure 3.4 Structure of Gems and Jewellery Industry of India 4% 96% Organised Retaillers Family Jewellers The Indiann jewellery market is one of the largest in the world. The emergence of branded jewellery is a new trend that is shaping the Indian jewellery market. Branded jewellery is a relatively new concept in the sector, and has positioned itself on the quality, reliability and wearability factors. Traditional handcrafted jewellery is slowly givingg way to machine-made jewellery.

Figure-3.5 shows that the Indian jewellery market size at US $ 12,667 million, is second only the US market of US $ 4, million. According to Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) the gold jewellery market is growing at 15 per cent per annum and the diamond jewellery market, at 27 per cent per annum. Figure - 3.5 Comparative Jewellery Market Size 59 45 4 4 35 3 US $ million 25 2 15 1 9 11 12667 5 24 Italy USA Japan china India Markets Source: The 23-28 World Outlook for Jewellery-Prof. Philip M. Parker, Insead Table-3.11 shows that the proportion of gold in jewellery is measured on the carat scale. Pure gold is designated 24 carat, which compares with fineness by which bar gold is defined. In India, as also in the Middle East and South East Asia, jewellery is traditionally 22 carat. The most widely used alloys for jewellery in Europe are 18 and 14 carat while 14 carat gold jewellery dominates in the US, 9 carat is popular in Britain. In China, Hong Kong and some other parts of Asia, chukkam or pure gold jewellery of 99 fineness are popular.

Table 3.11 Gold Caratage and Fineness Caratage Fineness % Gold 24 1, 1 22 916.7 91.67 18 75 75 14 583.3 58.3 1 416.7 41.67 9 375 37.5 Source: World Gold Council. Table 3.12 shows a comparative picture of four gems and jewellery product groups exports as described in the footnote to the Table. The export of these product groups of gems and jewellery have been further classified into seven country groups (i.e. Group A to Group G) and have been shown in the given Table. This kind of classification and grouping of the importing countries provide invaluable information regarding the demand of various types of gems and jewellery products. The analysis reveals that Group A countries are in the dire need of all the products under study. The remaining six groups of countries (Group B to Group G) are also in the demand of these products. On the basis of CAGR of exports to the various countries the intercomparison analysis of the product groups of gems and jewellery has also been made. Parenthetical figures of CAGR columns are the t-values that denote their importance at various levels. From the Table it is clear that there are some negative values of CAGR for these exports to some countries. The reason might be occasional local disturbances in the importing countries. This kind of empirical information is highly important regarding appropriate decision in the area of export-import policy. 6

Country Group Group-A Group-B Group-C Group -E Sr. No. Table 3.12 Inter Comparison of Exports of the Gems and Jewellery Products Groups (1998-99 to 24-5) (Value in US $ Million) Product Group-I Product Group-II Product Group-III Product Group-IV Country CAGR Country Group Sr. No. Country CAGR Country Group Sr. No. Country CAGR Country Group Sr. No. Country 1 U.S.A. 3.87 (2.1**) 1 U.S.A..97 (.47) 1 U.S.A. 2.9 (9.2*) 1 U.S.A. 18.7 (1.96*) 2 Spain 12.7 (3.43**) 2 Spain 3.59 (2.31*) 2 Spain 16.89 (1.12) 2 Spain 24.13 (3.83*) 3 Japan 2.2 (.83) 3 Japan 1.2 (.16) 3 Japan 6.33 (.74) 3 Japan 8.2 (1.36) 4 Belgium 5.5 (2.74**) 4 Belgium 19.16 (.52) 4 Canada 11.65 (1.) 4 France 19.17 (4.53*) 5 S. Korea 7.26 (.49) 5 S. Korea 11.42 (.87) 5 Malaysia 45.47 (1.56) 5 Thailand 32.93 (4.71*) 6 Australia 19.16 (6.32*) 6 Australia 9.54 (1.66) 6 Italy 33.29 (9.4*) 6 Israel 17.41 (1.57) 7 Taiwan 8.66 (1.21) 7 Canada 9.83 (1.83) 7 Taiwan 51.53 (2.12*) 7 U.A.E. -2.78 (-.28) 8 Singapore 39.83 (4.56*) 8 Malaysia 85.55 (2.8**) 8 Singapore 33.49 (13.74*) 8 Kuwait -5.35 (-.23) 9 U.K. 15.59 (2.39**) 9 Italy -1.75 (-.27) 9 U.K. 1.26 (4.32*) 9 Switzerland 4.8 (.95) 1 France 22.1 (2.15**) 1 Bahrain 64.37 (2.16**) 1 U.A.E. 51.42 (4.81*) 1 Bahrain 7.46 (.78) 11 Thailand 13.74 (3.91*) 11 Germany -3.41 (-.57*) 11 Kuwait -5.48 (-1.23) 11 Germany 14.39 (2.79**) 12 Israel 17.13 (3.6**) 12 Hong Kong -7.91 (-2.65) 12 Switzerland 22.94 (.6) 12 Hong Kong -6.73 (-.56) Group-A Group-B Group-D Group-F Source: Ibid., Table-3.1 Note: * The coefficients are significant at α =.1 ** The coefficients are significant at α =.1 Group-A Group-D Group-C Group-G Group-A Group-E Group-G Group-F 61 CAGR

Figures in parentheses are t-value. 62

63 Product Group-I = Cut and Polished Diamonds Product Group-II = Coloured Gemstones Product Group-III = Gold Jewellery Product Group-IV = Other Items of Gems and Jewellery Exports. Countries Groups Table - 3.13 Two Way Classification of CAGR for India s Exports of Gems and Jewellery Products (Value in US $ Million) Product Group I Product Group II Product Group III Product Group IV Highest Lowest Countries Highest Lowest Countries Highest Lowest Countries Highest Growth Growth Groups Growth Growth Groups Growth Growth Groups Growth Rate Rate Rate Rate Rate Rate Rate Group-A 12.7 (Spain) 2.2 (Japan) Group-A 3.59 (Spain) Group-B 19.16 5.5 Group-B 19.16 (Australia) (Belgium) (Belgium) Group-C 39.83 8.66 Group-D 85.85 (Singapore) (Taiwan) (Malaysia) Group-E 22.1 13.74 Group-F 64.37 (France) (Thailand) (Bahrain) Source: Ibid.,Table-3.1 Note: Product Group-I = Cut and Polished Diamonds Product Group-II = Coloured Gemstones Product Group-III = Gold Jewellery Product Group-IV = Other Items of Gems and Jewellery Exports.97 (USA) 9.54 (Australia) -1.75 (Italy) -7.91 (Hong Kong) Group-A 2.9 (USA) Group-D 45.47 (Malaysia) Group-C 51.53 (Taiwan) Group-G 51.42 (UAE) 6.33 (Japan) 11.65 (Canada) 1.26 (UK) -5.48 (Kuwait) Group-A 24.13 (Spain) Group-E 32.93 (Thailand) Group-G 4.8 (Switzerland) Group-F 14.39 (Germany) Lowest Growth Rate 8.2 (Japan) 17.41 (Israel) -5.35 (Kuwait) -6.73 (Hong Kong)

Table-3.13, derived from the Table-3.12, clearly gives two way classifications of the exports of gems and jewellery products. This Table shows both the highest and lowest growth rates for the products under study for each category of the importing countries. For instance, the highest growth rates in the product groups are 12.7, 3.59, 2.9 and 24.13 respectively in countries of Group A and similarly the lowest growth rates for the same groups are 2.2,.97, 6.33 and 8.2 respectively. The same kind of interpretations for such remaining combinations may be produced on similar lines. 64

65 NOTES AND REFERENCE 1. Government of India (21), The Sparkle of Success: The Indian Gem and Jewellery Industry, Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India, New Delhi. 2. Export Import Bank (21), Indian Gem and jewellery: A Sector Study, Occasional Paper no. 138, Quest Publications, Mumbai, Online from http:// www.eximbankindia.com/op138pdf. 3. Ishita Mukherjee (28), Gems and Jewellery Industry: Global and Indian Scenario, The Icfai University Press, Hyderabad. 4. DAVOS (26), Gems and Jewellery, IBEF Report January 25-29, Available from http://www.ibef.org/download/gemsandjewellery_setoral.pdf