02. MEETING ALL OF BRANDS EXPECTATIONS 03. PREMIèRE VISION PLURIEL: A STRONG INCREASE IN OFFER 04. PREMIèRE VISION EXHIBITORS: FIGURES 05. NEW EXHIBITORS 12. KNITWEAR SOLUTIONS: CREATIVE FLAT-BED KNITS START AT PREMIèRE VISION 17. FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA, PRESIDENT OF THE 4 Th EDITION OF THE PV AWARDS 19. HYèRES, NEW YORK, PARIS: THE WINNING ITINERARY OF RAGNE KIKAS, WINNER OF THE PREMIèRE VISION PRIZE AT THE 27 TH HYÈRES FESTIVAL 20. IFM provides first look at its «Junior generation» study to Première Vision visitors 21. WORKWEAR AND EVENING & PARTY WEAR: THE PLURIEL EXPERTS TRAILS UNITE TWO EXTREMES 22. OCTOBER 2012: DENIM BY PREMIèRE VISION ASIA TAKING PLACE IN SHANGHAI 24. PREMIèRE VISION SA: 24 SHOWS IN THE MAJOR MARKETS OF THE FASHION PLANET Japanese weaver Komatsu Seiren - celebrating 10 years of participating in Première Vision this September - created the new bag for the next show: an ultra-light backpack, in one of autumn winter 13/14 s key colours, Copper Broth. Première Vision The World s Premier Fabric Show TM NOTE CHANGE IN DAYS : from WEDNESDAY 19 to FRIDAY 21 Press kit June 2012
Meeting all of a brand s expectations The world of fashion changes and Première Vision changes with it. This slogan, which reflects Première Vision s constant evolution, is more relevant than ever. And it also applies to the whole of Première Vision Plural, which brings together six shows under the same roof: Expofil, Première Vision, Indigo, Le Cuir à Paris, ModAmont, Zoom by Fatex. After all, what is behind the unique strength and nature of this gathering? Unity of time and place, certainly, but above all the desire to present an offer that, in a targeted and quality manner, meets the expectations of fashion companies. All of their expectations. How do fashion brands work today? Armed with a strong sense of the identity, of the universe, that they have created for themselves, they develop an increasingly broad range of products consistent with that universe. Accessory specialists create clothing lines. Ready-to-wear brands round out their offers with belts, bags, jewellery and more. And their evolution is all the more essential as fashion brands most often open their own shops and thus must offer the consumer, in the same store, all the various items he or she need to constitute their wardrobe. Is fashion jewellery carving out a growing part of the brand universe? ModAmont responds by offering what is now a significant offer for this sector. Overall, are accessories becoming essential to collections? Première Vision, ModAmont and Le Cuir à Paris combine their offer to provide buyers and designers with the materials to give shape to their desires. In recent years, knitwear has been growing in collections. The reasons behind this new infatuation are many - including perhaps a search for comfort and ease, which are ever more important in a nomad society where people move and travel extensively. Knits are a technical product, worked on by specialists, and fashion companies entrust them to special teams. And it is for them - the designers, product heads, and buyers in charge of developing flat-bed knitwear collections - that Première Vision is creating a dedicated area, Knitwear Solutions, within the show (full information on page 12). With this new initiative, brands now have a complete offer, allowing their different teams to coordinate and work in synergy, together in the same group of shows. This means a real increase in efficiency and coherence for building their collections. p. 2
Première Vision Pluriel: a strong increase in offer Exhibitors of which change / september new September 2012* exhibitors 2011 EXPOFIL 51 10 + 19 % PREMIÈRE VISION 742 32 + 26 Knitwear + 4 % Solutions INDIGO 193 24 + 5 % MODAMONT 297 21 + 3 % LE CUIR À PARIS 390 36 + 11 % ZOOM BY FATEX 171 21 + 10 % TOTAL 1844 170 + 6 % PREMIÈRE VISION PLURIEL * Figures as of 20 June 2012, figures are not final. p. 3
Première Vision exhibitors: the figures Figures as of 20 June 2012, figures are not final. Seduction Distinction Relax Pulsation Others Knitwear TOTAL Solutions AUSTRIA 5 3 1 - - - 9 BELGIUM - - 2 1 - - 3 BRAZIL 1-2 - 1-4 BULGARIA - 2 - - - 1 3 CHINA 2 4 1 - - 11 18 CZECH REPUBLIC - 1 1 - - - 2 FRANCE 56 6 12 3 11-88 GERMANY 8 4 5 1 3-21 GREECE - - 1 - - - 1 HONG KONG - 1 1 - - - 2 INDIA 2 3 - - - - 5 IRELAND 1 - - - - - 1 ITALY 192 85 45 10 9 11 352 JAPAN 14 8 6 3-1 32 LITHUANIA - - 3 - - - 3 MAURITIUS - - 1 - - - 1 MEXICO - 2 - - - - 2 MOROCCO - 1 - - - - 1 NETHERLANDS - - 1 - - - 1 PERU - 2 - - - - 2 PORTUGAL 2 9 11 2 1-25 RUSSIA - - 1 - - - 1 SLOVENIA - - 1 - - - 1 SOUTH KOREA 8-5 8 1-22 SPAIN 11 7 9-1 - 28 SWEDEN - - - 1 - - 1 SWITZERLAND 5 - - 1 - - 6 TAIWAN - - 4 7 - - 11 TURKEY 15 18 27-1 2 63 UNITED KINGDOM 9 16 3-3 - 31 USA 1 - - - 1-2 TOTAL 332 172 143 37 32 26 742 p. 4
32 new exhibitors (not including Knitwear Solutions) join Première Vision Première Vision continues to grow. Despite the economic decline in Europe, exhibitor figures are up for the second edition of 2012 (Wednesday 19 to Friday 21 ). With three months still to go, 742 companies including 26 in the new Knitwear Solutions space are confirmed to take part in the World s Premier Fabric Show, already topping the September 2011 exhibitor total. Remarkably all the Première Vision SA shows are displaying the same upward trend: Expofil, 51 exhibitors, Indigo, 193 exhibitors, ModAmont, 297 exhibitors. The weavers, who will be presenting their collections for autumn winter 2013-14, now count 32 new exhibitors from all style universes among their ranks. Of particular note is the return of Tejidos Royo, a major denim and sportswear fabric specialist from Spain, after an absence of several sessions. Like all the companies exhibiting at Première Vision, newcomers were admitted by decision of the Selection Committee. The committee is comprised of international experts and weavers, who weigh each application according to very stringent criteria taking into account each company s creativity, the quality of their services and their financial viability. To these new entrants will be added a group of some 26 companies within Knitwear Solutions, the new area at the show dedicated to creative flat-bed knits. This platform will welcome knitters, spinners and a leading manufacturer of knitting machinery. The offer will be rounded out by the 18 Indigo design-studios specialising in flat-bed knits (full information on page 12). Discover the 32 new exhibitors below, presented by style universe/activity sector. Discover the Knitwear Solutions exhibitors on page 14. DISTINCTION COLOUR-WOVENS Baruche Superfine Cottons B2, 501, 5th Floor, Marathon Nextgen Innova, Opp. Peninsula, Corporate Park, Off GK Marg, Lower Parel - IN 400018 Mumbai / Tel.: (91)22 2482 4500 / girish.rao@sknl.co.in / www.sknl.co.in Vertically integrated from weaving to finishing, Baruche Superfine Cottons has a collection dedicated to men s city shirtings for the mid-range market. p. 5
Creditex Calle Los Hornos 185, Urb Vulcano 51, ate Vitarte - Pérou 3 Lima / Tel.: (511)7157500 / aaramburu@creditex.com.pe / www.creditex.com.pe Entirely vertically integrated - from cultivating cotton to finishing - this company proposes a collection dedicated to chic men s shirtings, with a special know-how in extremely fine yarn-counts (between 1/40 and 2/160). DISTINCTION SUITINGS Mitsuboshi Textile & Kanda Line 898 Tsutsumisoto Fuwaishiki Masaki - JP Hashima Gifu / Tel.: (81)58 392 4780 / shingo.iwata@mitsu-boshi.jp / www.mitsu-boshi.jp Founded in 1948, Mitsuboshi develops collections for designers and luxury brands drawing on an «industrial-handcrafted» approach. A collection mainly dedicated to sophisticated men s suitings and coats, proposing noble and/or rare compositions: cashmere, opossum, qiviuk, and premium cottons. Nobilia Consorzio, HK Ltd. 27th Peninsula Tower, 538 Castle Peak Road, Cheung Sha Wan - HK Kowloon / Tel.: (852)258 78862 This finishing and ennobling specialist, with roots in the Prato region, proposes a multi-product offer aimed at citywear with a casually elegant spirit, including combed or carded woollens, city cottons, and coatings for suits, coats or outerwear. Compact knits primarily for outer garments. Reid & Taylor India Ltd. Avadh shree Ram Mills Premises, G.K Marg, Worli - IN 400018 Mumbai-Maharashtra / Tel.: (91)22 249 30 180 / vijaybakshi@sknl.co.in / www.reidntaylor.com A sister company to Reid & Taylor (UK), the company develops combed wool collections for men s suits, including super 100s pure wools, and blends with silk or recycled polyester. Toray Industries, Inc. Dpt. Ultrasuede 3-3, Nakanoshima 3-chome, Kita-ku, - JP 530-8222 Osaka / Tel.: (81)06 7688 3384 / mitsuru_tanabe@nts.toray.co.jp / www.ecsaine.com A division of the Toray group, Ultrasuede is specialised in sueded fabrics made of polyester microfibre. Basic qualities are broken down in all weights in extremely broad colour ranges updated for the latest fashions. The collection also includes products enriched with more fantasy finishings, perforations, coatings, plays on embossed textures and more. Ugurteks Mehmet Akif cad., Simsir sok n 2 - TR 34010 Merter - Istanbul / Tel.: (90)212 5075050 / ayakuppur@ugurteks.com.tr / www.ugurteks.com.tr Partially machine-equipped in weaving and with fully integrated machinery in dyeing and finishing, Ugurteks presents a collection of suitings in blended compositions, both piece-dyed and yarn-dyed. Intended for everyday and easy-to-wear women s suits, the collection targets mainly mid-range and mass-market womenswear. p. 6
PULSATION TECHNICAL FABRICS Coronet Spa Via Leonardo Da Vinci, 40 - IT 20094 Corsico / Tel.: (39)02458781 / info@coronetspa.it / www.coronet.it Founded 50 years ago, Coronet specializes in the finishing of functional fabrics with waterproof, breathable, anti-bacterial properties and more. Coatings, bondings, and elaborated finishings lend a fashion touch to these high-performance products dedicated to high-end men s and women s outerwear. RELAX ATELIER DENIM Destro Diffusione Srl Viale Dell Artigianato, 7 - IT 35010 Peraga di Vigonza (PD) / Tel.: (39)0498 930 846 / commerciale@destrodiffusione.it Specialising in indigo cottons for jeanswear, Destro Diffusione stands out for its strongly affirmed casual fantasy direction. Creativity infuses every step from weaving on, often going beyond basics, right up to original finishings. RELAX COTTON-TYPE Anton Cramer Gmbh Münsterstr. 112 - DE 48268 Greven / Tel.: (49)2571 82181 / t_steinwachs@anton-cramer.de / www.anton-cramer.de Integrated in weaving, dyeing and finishing, Anton Cramer makes its return to Première Vision. With a collection of sportswear cottons for sportswear or workwear trousers, and casual/city jackets, in a rather masculine spirit. Their finishings and carefully elaborated colours lend a fashion touch. Elleti Srl Viale Unione Europea, 32 - IT 21013 Gallarate (VA) / Tel.: (39)0331 786 968 / info@elletisrl.it The Elleti offer, targeting jackets, dresses and casual trousers, is broken down in multi-products. The offer is rounded out by proposals for print dresses and tops. Matesa Tekstil Marketing Office : Konaklar Mah. Meseli Sok. N 9, 4. Levent - TR 34330 Istanbul / Tel.: (90)212 2847664 / halit.gurler@matesa.com.tr / www.matesa.com.tr Integrated from dyeing to finishing, Matesa Tekstil proposes an exclusively cottony and casual collection for the mid-range and mass markets. The company also exhibits an indigo denim collection at Denim by Première Vision. Ornek Tekstil Basin Ekspres Yolu Ayaz, Plaza B Blok n 5/4 - TR 34303 Halkali Istanbul / Tel.: (90)212 4726960 / info@ornektekstil.com.tr / www.ornektesktil.com.tr The specificity of the sportswear collection presented by Ornek Tekstil is its advanced research into colours, surface aspects and fantasy. They target the men s or women s fantasy sportswear market with a strong fashion accent. Another part of the collection, in polyester/wool blend, is aimed at suitings for entry-level citywear. p. 7
Troficolor Texteis SA Rue D. Pedro V. 505, Apartado 16 - PT 4786-909 Trofa / Tel.: (351)252 403870 / marketing@troficolor.com / www.troficolor.com Want to know the strength of Troficolor Texteis? It s the work that goes into its post-garment-manufacture dyeing and finishing techniques. The collection proposes cottons and denims for the men s and women s casual, mid-range market. Plain and fancy products that meet the needs of the casual-fashion sector. Troficolor will also be in the Atellier Denim with its Troficolor Denim Makers division. SEDUCTION FUR FABRICS Nice Gain Fabric Co., Ltd. N 9 South Liyuan Road, Jiangning Econ & Tech., Development Zone - CN 211100 Nanjing / Tel.: (86)025 521 08 588 / ycy@hgnicegain.com / www.magicfur.cn Vertically integrated from knitting to finishing, Nice Gain Fabric specialises in fake fur with a natural aspect: the Magic Fur brand. The company holds the license for the Kaneka Corporation of Japan (fibre producer), to exploit the «lustrous fur» label that guarantees a permanent shine. RELAX KNITS Celik Makas Ibrahimaga Caddesi N 18/2, Maltepe Topkapi - TR 34150 Istanbul / Tel.: (90)212 544 33 43 / www.formenti.com.tr Celik Makas is a knitter with is own integrated machinery and is specialised in circular knits for chic men s polos. It uses «Giza» cotton qualities and various mercerised cottons. Ekoten Tekstil Celal Umur cad, n 6 yedi eylül mah Torbali - TR 35860 Izmir / Tel.: (90)232 850 6060 / info@ekoten.com.tr / www.ekoten.com.tr Integrated in knitting and finishing, Ekoten Tekstil presents a knit collection mainly targeting mass-market womenswear, with a diversification into lingerie and technical knits. The company also has micro-encapsulation expertise, with an accent on cosmetic-textiles. Flem SpA Via Bovio 23 - IT 21052 Busto Arsizio (VA) / Tel.: (39)0331 351370 / info@flemsrl.com / www.flemspa.com A specialist in men s polo knits, Flem is back at Première Vision with products in a classic style, with fancy propositions, low-key stripes, yarn effects or contrasting double faces. A collection that targets the midrange market segment. Nuryildiz Tekstil Gunesli Evren Mah. Gulbahar Cd. n 5 - TR 34540 Bagsilar - Istanbul / Tel.: (90)212 5502655 / mehmetkarayel@nuryildiz.com.tr / www.nuryildiz.com.tr The knit and jersey collection developed by Nuryildiz Tekstil targets T-shirts for the casual and women s markets, with an eye to high-street fashions. The company, integrated in finishing and dyeing, is GOTS certified and can respond to requests for organic cotton. p. 8
Primatex By G&B Via S.M. Kolbe, 26 - IT 36016 Thiene (VI) / Tel.: (39)0445 386162 / info@primatex.net / www.primatex.net Primatex elaborates a collection of circular knits for T-shirts and outer garments with a subtle and minimalist quality and creativity. Products primarily targeted to the women s, casual, lingerie or streetwear markets. SEDUCTION LACE Codentel 195 rue Louis Breguet, BP 92 - FR 62102 Calais / Tel.: 33 (0)3 21366064 / franck.duhamel@codentel.com / www.codentel.com Born 12 years ago from the merger of two Calais-based companies, one founded in 1870 and the other in 1920, Codentel is entirely equipped with Leavers looms. The lace collection, originally oriented more towards lingerie and corsetry, has over the past few seasons been diversified into ready-to-wear and couture. SEDUCTION KNITS Italiana Tessuti Via Garonna, 5 - IT 42124 Reggio Emilia / Tel.: (39)0522 943 551 / export@italianatessuti.com / www.italianatessuti.com Specialists in circular knits, Italiana Tessuti proposes a collection of creative and quality knits, mainly for the mid/high-end market. Particularly distinctive in their collection are the indigo jersey developments. Spazio Jersey Via Chiesa Sud, 162, Rovereto sul Secchia - IT 41016 Modena / Tel.: (39)059 673 296 / chiara@spaziojersey.it / www.spaziojersey.it Well in in line with fashion trends, the circular knit collection presented by Spazio Jersey answers the demands of a primarily women s market. Mid and entry-level market segment. Staff Jersey Vialle della Meccanica, 23 Int. 4 - IT Carpi (MO) / Tel.: (39)059 697 534 / marisa@staffjersey.it A knitter with its own integrated machinery, Staff Jersey develops a collection of high-quality circular knits, mostly for the women s or casual markets. They are distinguished by their textures, plays on stitches, elaborated finishings, and a variety of compositions, all with a strong fashion sensibility. Weights range from T-shirt to woven-style jackets. Toko Shoji Co., Ltd. 3-4-8, Azuchimachi, Chuo-ku - JP 541-0052 Osaka / Tel.: (81)6 6262 8112 / r-okada@tokoshoji.co.jp / www.tokoshoji.co.jp Toko Shoji presents a collection of fantasy, rather casual, knits, with a strong accent on jacquards and plays on stitches thanks to a technically-advanced and original approach. Weights tend to outer garments, sweaters or cardigans. p. 9
SEDUCTION PRINTS Rodilosso Srl Via Donizetti 1 - IT 22032 Albese Con Cassano / Tel.: (39)031 426437 / rodilosso@rodilosso.it Founded in the 1960s, Rodilosso presents a collection of digital prints on cotton, silk or woollen grounds. A new and contemporary approach for products targeting the mid/top-range women s market. SEDUCTION silks Piero Galli SAS Via Donatello 10 - IT 21013 Gallarate (VA) / Tel.: (39)0331 792 713 / pierogalli1901@virgilio.it / www.pierogalli.com Founded in Como in 1901, Piero Galli presents a collection of top-range silks - jacquards, cut-throwns, embroideries and guipure - that target the market for dressy women s wear and wedding gowns. Luxury and high-end markets. Preview 14 rue Commines - FR 75003 Paris / Tel.: 33 (0)1 44543570 / simy@preview-collection.fr Preview has a double professional identity: silk maker / embroiderer. All dyeing is done in Paris for optimised reactivity. The embroidery offer consists principally of guipure and appliqués. The silks are mainly targeted for fluid clothing. Products are for the top-of-the-range and designer women s markets. Silk-Co Srl Via Pirandello, 1 - IT 22070 Luisago di Portichetto (CO) / Tel.: (39)031 927897 / silk-co@libero.it A Como-based company, Silk-Co proposes a collection of fancy silks for the dressy women s market. Voiles, cut-throwns, jacquards and fancy wovens, often set off by shiny or metallic threads. Tessitura Attilio Imperiali SpA Via Bulgaro 13/Int - IT 22075 Lurate Caccivio / Tel.: (39)031 490109 / staff@attilioimperiali.it / www.attilioimperiali.it Founded in 1961, Attilio Imperiali is an integrated weaving mill. It is a silk specialist that develops the full range of traditional weaves and explorations of fantasy. Well-known for its «imperial satin» for footwear and accessories, the company has now diversified into ready-to-wear. Products target the dressy or designer high-end women s market. p. 10
OTHER EXHIBITORS U-Clife by Groupe Euréka 159 Route De Paris - FR 76920 Amfreville La Mivoie / Tel.: 33 (0)2 35078680 / sebastienadam@welovebob.eu / www.eurekafripes.com An industrialised fabric-recycling company, U-Clife is capable of responding to the needs of fashion brands with fabrics coming from large-scale recycling (wovens, knits, leather). It proposes different forms of sourcing; clothing, disassembled clothing, square metres up to 60 X 80 cm. A special fashion approach in a sustainable development context. Textile Centre of Excellence Textile House, Red Doles Lane, West Yorkshire - GB Huddersfield, HD2 1YF / Tel.: (44)1484 346 500 / amywheldrake@textile-training.com / www.textile-training.com The Textile Centre of Excellence supports the textile industry through research and innovation and offers high-quality training across a range of sectors. p. 11
Knitwear Solutions: creative flat-bed knits start at Première Vision Once again, Première Vision is breaking new ground. True to its vocation to provide fashion industry professionals the most comprehensive and targeted textile offer, it is establishing a platform dedicated to creative flat-bed knitwear at the show: Knitwear Solutions. The creation of this new space reflects a desire to present a fully transversal offer of complementary services and products at Première Vision Pluriel. It is also a response to the surge of creative knitwear in ready-to-wear, where it now represents from 20% to 40% of the pieces in a collection. Knitwear Solutions aims to provide an offer from experts in the sector to designers, product developers, and buyers in charge of knitwear collections. In September the new platform will bring together international flat-bed knitters - manufacturers of sweaters and related products -, specialised spinners and a machine manufacturer with innovative technology. 26 companies are expected to be taking part. The strongest contingent will be knitters with recognised know-how and creativity working in womenswear and menswear. Companies that will be unveiling collections, but which are also capable of addressing the sophisticated needs of luxury houses. These will feature an abundance of original proposals: ultra-fine gauges, complex knit stitches, hand intarsias, printed or hand-painted knits, washed-out aspects, linking stitch per stitch garments and more. p. 12
These knitters come from Italy, China and Turkey, the three major countries for this activity sector. They include some medium-sized players, and others with a large production capacity. Autumn-winter season fibres including cashmere, wool and blends with silk or viscose, will be spotlighted. Three major spinners will be present in the space - Raumer (Italy), E. Miroglio (Bulgaria) and Zhejiang Xinao (China) - all three specialised in wool and quality-blend yarns. Joining them will be Shima Seiki (Japan), the worldwide leader in flat-bed knitting machines. It will present the latest technologies, which provide impetus to new creative avenues. The 18 knitwear studios at the Indigo show, studios recognised for their unbridled creativity, will round out the offer. Thus, nearly 50 companies in all will be proposing their expertise to the community of designers and knitwear product heads. Quite logically, the new area will be located alongside of Indigo (in the north of hall 5). It will be also joined by Expofil, the show of yarns for wovens and circular knits, whose fibre producers-exhibitors are moreover targeting Hall 5 an expanded visitorship within the sector. A specific space, ambiance and information Hall 6 are a natural complement to this specific industry. Thus, booths with their own identity have been adapted to the presentation of finished products, in an overall boutique spirit. A fashion information forum will underline the creativity of this industry and facilitate the work of buyers. Created by knitwear designer Aamu Salo and the Première Vision Fashion Department, this area will showcase a selection of products and developments around the theme «Shades of Fantasy.» For its first edition, Knitwear Solutions aims to bring together an unparalleled platform in textile trade shows. An offer for a community of specialists developing a creative, highly technical, product. p. 13
A closer look at some of their know-hows: CLOUDS SRL Via delle Robinie - 6083 Bastia Umbra (PG) - Italy - Tel.: (39)075 800 8420 / clouds.posta@libero.it A high-end knitter from Italy, Clouds works with many women s luxury brands, realising true technical feats thanks to a consummate expertise and close client relationships. E. MIROGLIO EAD Industrial District - P.O. Box 360-8800 Sliven - Bulgaria - Tel.: (39) 173 610 213 A major spinner of pure and blended worsted wool for flat-bed knitwear, E. Miroglio also proposes a collection of fantasy yarns blended with noble fibres. GLOBAL LINE Via Della Solidarieta, 62-06134 Solfagnano Perugia - Italy Tel.: (39) 075 579 2024 / info@globallinesrl.com Global Line was founded in 1998 as a manufacturer of woman s knitwear. The Global Line products are entirely made in Italy, with the best yarns, such as silk, wool and cotton. Knitted garments are manufactured with the highest level of craftsmanship and quality for creative demands and sophisticated finishes. INNER MONGOLIA ERDOS CASHMERE GROUP No 32 Dalate South Rd - Dongsheng District 017000 Ordos City, Inner Mongolia - China Tel.: (86)477 8543855 / erdoscathy@yahoo.com Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group is the largest manufacturer of cashmere products in China, producing over 10 million pieces. The company is fully integrated from fibres to spinning, knitting and finishing. The company is constantly exploring opportunities for new developments in cashmere, the noble fiber, for fashion players. MAGLIFICIO DEGLI ANGELI SRL Via Roma 119-60030 Angeli di Rosora (AN) - Italy - Tel.: (39)0731 817 91 A historic Italian company, Maglificio degli Angeli specialises in the production of top-range knits in 5, 7, 18 and 27 gauges. It proposes classic sweaters in 100% wool, cashmere, angora and mohair as well as knits elabored with intarsias, leather appliqués, and technical fabrics and yarns. MAGLIFICIO R. SCAGLIONE SRL Via Guglielmo Lochis, 12-24129 Bergamo - Italy - Tel.: (39)035 4373338 / info@scaglione.it Specialists in cashmere sweaters, Maglificio Scaglione presents a collection for companies looking for quality products. The collection also includes noble fibres or blends, such as merino wool, alpaca wool, silk, linen and fine cotton. MERIDIAN INDUSTRIES 6f China Uinted Plaza - 1002-1008 Tai Nan West Street - Cheung Sha Wan - Kowloon Hong Kong Tel.: (852)2742 4517 / main@mcegroup.com Established in 1982, Meridian Industries is a leading cashmere knitter for women s ready-to-wear with its 7500 employees. Their collections are targeting customers looking for quality products, with sophisticated design and finishings. The company, with headquarters based in Hong Kong and factories in China and Madagascar, also responds to special requests of international fashion brands. p. 14
NANAN HANWO KNITTERS LIMITED Hong Nai Town, Nanan - 362331 Fu Jian - China (People s Republic of) / Tel.: (86)595 8668 3723 With an annual production capacity of 2.5 million pieces, Nanan Hanwo Knitters is specialised in the manufacture of knit garments. Diversified know-how and industrial machinery ranging from 1.5 to 18 gauge allow it to meet a wide range of demand from the mid-range to the high-end. RAUMER Via Corte 1-36030 Valli del Pasubio - Italy - Tel.: (359) 44 501 514 A leading producer of classic worsted yarns for knitwear in pure and mixed wool, Raumer proposes fancy yarn blends of high quality fibres. Stock service for a selection of classic yarns. Certified - Woolmark, OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and ISO 9001, Lloyd s Register Quality Assurance. REGINA SRL Via Piovega 18/b - 31017 Paderno Del Grappa (tv) - Italy - Tel.: (39)0423 410 500 / info@regina.it Regina SRL, specialised in knitwear products in all type of gauges, works with mid- and top-range Italian clients. The company accompanies its clients looking for full-service: style and shape, stitches, finishing and production. SAYIM TEKSTIL / DUMAN Group Cobancesme Mah. Mithatpasa Cd Badem Sk - No.11 Yenibosna - 34196 Istanbul - Turkey Tel.: (90)212 652 0452 / info@dumangroup.com Specialising in the menswear market, the Duman Group is a major Turkish player. Its production capacity and know-how allow it to meet demand from a sophisticated European market. SHANGHAI MAGICKNIT FASHION CO LTD 501 Du Hui Rd, Minhang District - 201109 Shanghai - China (République populaire) Tel.: (86)21 3350 5633 A knitter from the Shanghai region offering a broad variety of know-hows: hand and machine knitting, linking, special finishings, digital printing, as well as dyeing and washings. SHANGHAI MINGYANG 15th Floor, n 1 Building - 1060 Lane Lujiabang Rd - 200011 Shanghai - China Tel.: (86)21 6378 2800 / customerservice@mingyanggroup.com A historic Shanghai knitter, Shanghai Mingyang creates and produces knitwear with high creative addedvalue. The company has manufacturing equipment in gauges from 1.5 to 16. Their annual capacity totals some 6,000,000 pieces annually. SHENZHEN MEILIAN CLOTHING CO LTD C10 Building, n 2nd Xin an Industrial Park - Bao an District - 518102 Shenzhen - Chine (République populaire) Tel.: (86)755 2815 8998 Shenzhen Meilian proposes an unparalleled expertise and collection of hand-painted knitwear. The company has 400 artists-painters at their service creating equally as many unique pieces. p. 15
SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LDT. 85 Sakata, Wakayama - 0 Wakayama - Japan - Tel.: (81)73 474 8210 / sakuma@shimaseiki.co.jp Shima Seiki is the global leader in technology for the flat-bed knitwear industry: machines, software, etc. TEXIM KNITS Savas Caddesi, Karadal Sokak n 22 Merter - 34010 Istanbul - Turkey Tel.: (90)212 637 3757 / teximknits@texim.com.tr With nearly 900 employees, Texim Knits is a major Turkish player. Specialised in knitwear for the toprange men s market, the company can also meet demand from the women s market. It accompanies international brands in the development and manufacture of their knitwear collections. VICENZA MODE SRL Via delle Industrie 78-36050 Cartigliano (VI) - Italy - Tel.: (39)0424 220 420 / info@vicenzamode.com For the past 40 years, Vicenza Mode has been working with a demanding, sophisticated clientele. Full-fashioned knits, high-end finishings, materials and products... it proposes a complete service from design to finished product. WUXI PACIFIC KNITTING No.5 Branch Road, Jingshangbei Industry Park - No.888 Jianghai Road - 214037 Wuxi, Jiangsu - China Tel.: (86)0510 8260 5268 Generally specialised in men s knitwear products, Wuxi Pacific Knitting works with a demanding European clientèle. The company has machines ranging in gauge from 3 to 18. It has a complete range of finishing equipment for this sector of the market as well, and has received ISO2000 certification. ZHEJIANG SANYUAN 2nd Floor No 1888 Jianghui Road 310051 Hangzhou - China - Tel.: (86)571 8378 3578 / qj@zjab.com Zhejiang Sanyuan is a Chinese knitwear manufacturer; its 1200 employees manufacture garments which are 100% exported to Europe and the USA. The company works with major ready-to-wear and designer brands. They make sweaters in gauges from 1.5 to 16 and also handmade with different yarns such as 100% cashmere, mixed cashmere, wool, angora, mohair, linen, cotton, tencel, bamboo etc. They also make sweaters with print, embroidery, beading, dip dye, tie & dye etc. ZHEJIANG XINAO TEXTILES INC. No.48 Zhenzhi Street, Chongfu Town - 314511 Tongxiang City (Zhejiang) - China - Tel.: (86)573 8845 5800 One of the leading wool spinners in China, Zhejiang Xinao has a large production capacity of worsted yarns in pure wool, or wool blended with cashmere and other noble fibres. p. 16
Felipe Oliveira Baptista, president of the 4 th edition of the PV Awards He s known for being down to earth and discreet, but he is above all extremely talented: Felipe Oliveira Baptista, a Portuguese-born designer who has been living and showing his collections in Paris since 2003, has been named the next President of the PV Awards. Creative director of Lacoste since 2010, he updated the brand with the crocodile logo by making it more feminine. At the same time he has continued to develop his own brand, created almost 10 years ago. Alongside this talented designer, influential fabric and fashion experts and personalities will constitute the particularly international jury of the 4 th PV Awards: Ettore Corti, Head of fabric purchases and quality, Piazza Sempione, Italy Ragne Kikas, winner of the Première Vision prize at the Hyères 2012 International Festival, Estonia Franc Pairon, Director of the Design Postgraduate Program, IFM (Institut français de la Mode), France Alain Sabatier, Collection Director, New Man, France Eric Wright, Freelance Designer, United States, Robb Young, journalist, United Kingdom and Pascaline Wilhelm, Première Vision Fashion Director. Designers often say, «It all starts with the fabrics.» Yet textile creativity too often remains in the shadows. With the PV Awards, Première Vision seeks to highlight the extraordinary power of invention, imagination and renewal in fashion textiles. In a mere few years, the PV Awards have become an event eagerly awaited by weavers and international buyers. p. 17
Four prizes are awarded on a yearly basis, to single out the different facets of textile creativity: The Grand Jury Prize for the season s most exceptional fabric. Handle Prize for the fabric with the most astonishing tactile and behavioural qualities. Innovation Prize for the most innovative, technological and creative fabric. Imagination Prize for the most daring, most surprising fabric in terms of material, technique, decoration or finishings. For the 2012 edition, the Jury will meet for the first time on 10 September. Its goal will be to select the most outstanding creations of the Première Vision weavers, from among the fabrics chosen by the Fashion Team for the show s forums (Autumn Winter 2013-14 collections). The nominated fabrics will all be displayed, marked by a special label, in the Première Vision General Forum. The jury s final deliberations will take place at the show itself, the morning of Friday 21 September. Winners will be announced immediately afterwards. The announcement will be made, in public, by Felipe Oliveira Baptista, in the General Forum at noon. An emotional and joyous moment to be shared by all the textile and fashion industry pros gathered at Première Vision. A quick look back: at past PV Awards jury presidents: 2009 Véronique Nichanian (Hermès), 2010 Ennio Capasa (Costume National), 2011 Roland Mouret (Roland Mouret). p. 18
Hyères, New York, Paris the winning itinerary of Ragne Kikas, awarded the Première Vision Prize at the 27 th Hyères Festival Chaired by Yojhi Yamamoto, the jury of the prestigious Hyères International Festival of Fashion & Photography awarded this year s Première Vision Prize to Ragne Kikas, a young Estonian fashion designer. Scoring a double win, she also walked away with the Fashion Public Award of the City of Hyères. Her collection drew inspiration from XV and XVI century armour, whose inflexible and angular shapes she translates into knitted fabrics, her preferred medium. (See more information at www.premierevision.com). This is the second year that Première Vision has sponsored one of the Hyères Festival Prizes, with other years destined to follow as the commitment is conceived over the long-term. The partnership is part of the efforts undertaken by the World s Première Fabric Show to Etienne Tordoir support young designers. The commitment involves both financial support (the Prize includes a 10,000 euro grant), and, most importantly, real support to the young designers during both the creation and promotion of their collections. The collection of Ragne Kikas, like those of the other ten competition finalists, were thus made thanks to the support of approximately 100 exhibitors from the Expofil, Première Vision and ModAmont shows. These exhibitors, accustomed to working with major fashion houses and fashion brands, enthusiastically answered Première Vision s call to lend a hand to these young international designers on their road to success. In terms of promotion, Première Vision Preview New York, taking place in a few weeks (11-12 July), will give Ragne Kikas a chance to meet the American press and major buyers. She will be giving them a live look at her work, as her designs along with those of the two other Festival prizewinners will be exhibited in a specially outfitted space at the New York show. And in September, an exhibition dedicated to the young Estonian fashion designer will take place at the Paris show, in the passage between Halls 5 and 6. A space will also echo her work at Knitwear Solutions, the platform dedicated to creative flat-bed knitting (Hall 5). A natural connection, as Ragne Kikas works primarily in knits. p. 19
IFM provides first look at its "Junior generation" study to Première Vision visitors While they clearly don t have the highest incomes, one thing is certain: they spend the most on clothing. The highest fashion budgets belong to young Europeans. For fashion brands, that means it s important to fully understand these consumers: their relationships to style, their motivations, their influences, etc. This is the goal of the brand-new European-wide study conducted by the IFM (Institut Français de la Mode) of a population of 15-25 year-olds: «Junior generation: fashion for the 15-25 age group». How do young people differ from their elders in terms of their buying behaviour and habits? Do girls spend more than boys (which may put to rest some conventional wisdom...)? Which brands do young people prefer? Which celebrities do they consider most stylish? These are just a few of the many areas investigated by the IFM. The result is both a behavioural and forward-looking study, which sketches the portrait of a population with complex desires, with elaborate and shifting attitudes. A study that provides original insights for dispelling certain stereotypes. The IFM has chosen to unveil the findings of its study at Première Vision, a unique event bringing together all the international fashion players, including those working in the Junior market. The study will be presented at a roundtable discussion bringing together the IFM authors, and two experts in Juniors, a sociologist and a representative from a brand: Wednesday 19 September, 11 a.m. hall 6, conference room 611 Première Vision visitors will be given the first opportunity to obtain this study, available at the show s points of sale and later from the IFM. p. 20
With Workwear et Evening & Party wear, the Pluriel Experts Trails unite two extremes Working and partying. For, the Pluriel Experts Trails have chosen to explore these two very contrasting, even opposing, moments in our lives. Each with its own specific dress codes, and using very different fabrics and materials. WORK Wear Workwear, or how to venture out into the tough working world with style and elegance. Tapping into the workwear fashion current, Première Vision Pluriel goes back to the origins of the concept, with a Workwear trail that flags manufacturers of true, high-performance, solid, functional and authentic products. Products to stylishly and professionally outfit carpenters, butchers, waiters, warehouse and store clerks, petrol attendants, hostesses, cashiers, security guards and more. With Evening & Party wear, Première Vision Pluriel suggests turning to thoughts of parties, ceremonies, and spectacular star-turns, and discovering unique know-hows at the service of exceptional fashions. Whether designing for red carpet silhouettes or more informal but still fabulous or eccentric looks, the Evening & Party wear trail leads to a discovery of exceptional yarns, dazzling patterns, and virtuoso fabrics. Stunning ingredients, plain and decorated leathers and accessories, and furs and details that are positioned, embroidered, appliqué or perfectly calibrated. With two themes per season, the Pluriel Experts Trails are valuable guides for international buyers. They allow them to quickly identify companies offering products and services that meet their needs across the six Première Vision Pluriel shows. The trails offer efficiency and timesavings: two significant advantages for fashion pros constantly on the look-out for new ideas and new suppliers. The Pluriel Experts Trails also provide heightened visibility to exhibitors by spotlighting specific and sometimes little known, even unknown, expertise and know-hows. To help buyers organize their visit in advance, the list of exhibitors participating in these trails is available from mid-july on at www.premierevision.com and www.premierevision-pluriel.com At the show, there are two ways to locate the exhibitors participating in the Pluriel Experts Trails: see the Show Map/Guide, available at the many information areas and / or spot the specific pictogram appearing on the nameboard of the Experts Trails participants. p. 21
23-24 October 2012 : Denim by Première Vision Asia event in Shanghai Denim by Première Vision heads east! The show dedicated to jeans fabric, which in five years has become the must-attend event for the international jeanswear community (with its last May 2012 edition registering a record 10% growth rate), exports its unique concept to the Asian continent. The new event, Denim by Première Vision Asia, addresses the premium jeans market in China, Hong Kong and neighbouring Asian countries including Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, etc. The offer will consist of exhibitors from the Paris show joined by companies from the region (China, Japan, Southeast Asia). These last are mostly companies integrated in garment manufacturing / washing-out, and will of course meet the selection criteria and standards set by Denim by Première Vision. Thus, Freedom Denim, Golden Win, JWS, etc. For its first edition, Denim by Première Vision Asia aims to bring together some forty exhibitors. Market leaders such as Absolute Denim, Artistic Fabrics Mills, Artistic Milliners, Arvind, Bossa, Candiani, Isko, ITVomano, Montebello, Orta, Realkom, Sartex and Tejidos Royo have already confirmed their participation. Also present will be major Japanese denim producer Kaihara which, since 1893, has been creating fabrics of exceptional quality, thanks to production methods unmatched in the world of denim. Another aim of Denim by Première Vision Asia is to underline the added-value of premium jeans and the differentiation it provides, by supplying content that both informs and inspires current or future denim brands To show what premium denim is and illustrate this specific know-how in terms of choice of materials, washing-out, finishing and cut, etc., a Denim by Première Vision Asia collection will be specially created for the event, in collaboration with two Italian experts well known in jeanswear: Umberto Brochetto and Massimo Munari - Creative Room. The collection will be displayed at the show. Denim by Première Vision Asia will be held in Shanghai, along the Huangpu River, in a building whose spirit is certain to resonate with the denim community: a former cotton mill dating from 1929, whose generous volumes were designed by a Japanese architect. p. 22
Right next to it will be held Première Vision China, now in its 18th edition. The show, which brings together some fifty exhibitors each session, welcomes visitors seeking ever more sophisticated and original products. And this is what the two shows have in common. While each pursues a very specific visitorship, both seek to bring added-value products to an upwardly mobile market. The proximity of the two shows will benefit visitors to both. Make a note: the denim events for the 2 nd semester of 2012 L Atelier Denim à Première Vision 19-21 / Parc d Expositions Paris Nord Villepinte Denim by Première Vision Asia 23-24 October 2012 / East Dock - Shanghai Denim by Première Vision 28-29 November 2012 / La Halle Freyssinet - Paris p. 23
Première Vision SA : 24 shows in the major markets of the fashion planet 2011 22 shows 3 550 exhibitors 198 500? visits from industry pros 2012 24 +3 600 exhibitors shows in 6 countries not non yet encore known connu p. 24
Première Vision SA: 24 shows in the major markets of the fashion planet INDIGO brussels home EDITION 11 to 13 September 2013 EXPOFIL PARIS 19 to 21 12 to 14 February 2013 PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS 19 to 21 12 to 14 February 2013 INDIGO PARIS - FASHION EDITION 19 au 21 PARIS - HOME EDITION January 2013 PARIS - FASHION EDITION 12 to 14 February 2013 MODAMONT PARIS 19 to 21 12 to 14 February 2013 PREMIÈRE VISION MOSCOW MOSCOW 26 and 27 February 2013 DENIM BY PREMIÈRE VISION ASIA SHANGHAI 23 and 24 October 2012 PREMIÈRE VISION CHINA SHANGHAI 23 and 24 October 2012 BEIJING March 2013 DENIM BY PREMIÈRE VISION PARIS 28 and 29 November 2012 22 and 23 May 2013 PREMIÈRE VISION PREVIEW NEW YORK NEW YORK 15 and 16 January 2013 July 2013 INDIGO NEW YORK FASHION EDITION 15 and 16 January 2013 April 2013 July 2013 PREMIÈRE BRASIL são paulo 23 and 24 January 2013 July 2013 p. 25
Fashion info The Autumn Winter 1314 season P2. FOREWARD P3. FASHION STORIES Première Vision Premier Salon Mondial des Tissus d Habillement ATTENTION JOURS DÉCALÉS : du mercredi 19 au vendredi 21 septembre 2012 Dossier de presse juin 2012
Fashion info Foreward The stories of autumn winter 1314 portray an opulent and sexy season marked by substance. They return the senses to the heart of the debate and elevate the role of feelings. They convey the energy of emotion through colours concentrated deep inside fabrics, in engorged pigments, in mysterious shadows, in bittersweets. They tell of fabrics with a sensual tangibility, with a fullness in weights and behaviours, with an enrobing or protective thickness, with a full-bodied fluidity, with an ultra-supple stretch, with a daring fantasy. They proclaim the freedom to mix fabrics, decorations, cuts and styles to bring together quality and no-limits, sports and elegance, the exceptional and the everyday together in the silhouette. Winter 1314 tells fashion stories that carry away, that transport, that spellbind, stories of time, stories of adventure, stories of feeling. p. 2
Fashion info Fashion stories Stories of time Seeing beyond everyday realities to sketch out a visionary and virtuoso fashion vision, freely navigating between historical yesterdays and an idealised future. Masking the body or closely outlining it, contrasting corseted lines and protective, shield-like volumes, cultivating extremes for a silhouette with flaunted anachronisms. Reinterpreting fantasy with ornamental spirals and epic paintings, covering them in a coloured darkness, and forthrightly updating them. Cutting and pasting together periods and styles, combining fabrics together in the same piece of clothing, bringing out the incongruous detail. Playing with decorative extremes for everyday, to bring to life fearless fashions that are anything but vintage. Harmonies Colours from the heart Dark multicolours Heraldic two-tones Fabric highlights hairy and velvety > quality and relaxed velvets > mad fleeces, soft ratines, silks with tousled cut-yarns decorative opulence > macrostructure fancy plains, giant sweaters and woollens > textured embroideries, quiltings, and 3D embossings > figured, incised, burnt-out and flocked ornamentals and scrolls > references to masterpieces and historical influences precious shields > extroverted shine, dark coppery or gold metallics > oiled, resined and waxed coatings, wet reflections, leather and skin imitations > darkened shot looks, overdyes, mysterious garment washes sheathing elasticity > curvy bi-stretch > body-sculpting denims > compact knits p. 3
Fashion info Stories of adventure Thinking of the city as a land of adventure, uniting the great outdoors and cityscapes, and exploring new ways to move and to dress. Heading off with stylishness tucked in your pocket. Developing new close relationships between active sports and fashion, building bridges to connect the outdoors and fantasy, creating hybrids between a citified elegance and workwear. Initiating a silhouette composed in layers, piling on cosy woollens and high-performance synthetics, featherweights and protective thicknesses. Affixing decoration to major fashion pieces; blurring, encoding, ciphering, camouflaging and cultivating a mimicry inspired by quotidian imagery. Harmonies Recto-verso Out-going outdoors Naturally urban Fabric highlights solid quality > overweight broadcloths, cottons and denims, compact silkies > herringbone weaves, broken twills, in wool or cotton double faces and reversibles > natural/synthetic contrasts > fancy/plain contrasts tamed naturals > sporty wools > braided aspects, technical and high performance cardeds > softened raw woollens and knits, haphazard visuals, readable throwns and chinés urban interference > multi-coloured blurry tweedies and woollens > micro precision, geometric grids and encodings > pictorial, moiré, marbled or floral camouflage > photo-graphics, collages p. 4
Fashion info Stories of feeling Putting seduction at the heart of concerns, and giving in to feelings and temptations. Allowing the imagination to drift off towards misty realities, surreal plays on mirrorings, softly psychedelic distortions. Yielding to the tactile delight of creamy, foamy and syrupy fabrics. Sensual, soft and delicious fabrics for sexily modest clothing, clothing that works with the body, which slyly conceals and reveals. Elaborating curves without moulding the body, imparting weight and fullness to fluidity, lending a slightly naughty touch to enveloping volumes by subtle plays on bareness or slits in clothing. Harmonies Delicious frosts Soft shadows Lively flashes Fabric highlights enveloping thickness > supple felts, creamy moleskins and velveties > bondings with a scuba-style roundness > multi-layered transparencies, light waddings dense fluidity > syrupy silkiness > ultra-supple and feminine casual fabrics sensually ultra-soft > vaporous wools and mohairs, cloudy lace and knits > talc-like handles, powdery featherweights > plastic, jellied shine hinted-at decorations > narrative shadows, floral or plant silhouettes > patterns diluted in the grounds, blurred brushings, dissolved checks > veiled, smoky, colourful uneven-dyes p. 5