KahlWax the leading wax specialist SPECIAL CARE FOR UNIQUE SKIN & HAIR ETHNIC BEAUTY
ETHNIC BEAUTY Overview Introduction Trends Suitable Ingredient Summary 2
ETHNIC BEAUTY INTRODUCTION Trends Suitable Ingredient Summary 3
ETHNIC BEAUTY What is ethnic beauty? Ethnicity represents the cultural identity of a group, the overlap of different skin types and has often complex roots. As we live in a time of globalization with people moving around the world, the differentiation of skin and hair color as well as type moves more and more towards endless nuances and shades. With a fast-growing world population, countless additional ethnic skin and hair types appear and require suitable skin, hair, and color cosmetic products. 4
ETHNIC BEAUTY There is a will to invest In emerging markets in Latin America and Africa the inclined consumer is willing to invest in products that target its specific needs. 30% of all Brazilian consumers would pay more for a hair care product that protects the hair shafts from damage of the sun. Significant growth in Africa's hair care market (conditioners by 11%), encouraged by the rise of internet, cable TV usage and growing middle-class. South Africa represents the biggest beauty market (3.72 billion US$) in the sub-saharan region with a growth of 5.3% in 2016. 5
ETHNIC BEAUTY Targeting the multicultural market In North America, the number of ethnic personal care products launched rises from year to year. By 2050, the ethnic population in the US is set to increase to 53% of the total, divided into 28% Hispanics, 17% Afro-Americans and 8% Asians. Afro-Americans drive the multicultural personal care market the most. Due to the increasing amount of multicultural populations in Europe even this mature beauty market drives brands to tailor products for skin care different ethnicities. color cosmetic hair care US ethnic market by product class 6
ETHNIC BEAUTY Key growth factors at a glance growing ethnic population unique needs per ethnicity expansion of product offerings intensified competition increased marketing 7
ETHNIC BEAUTY Introduction TRENDS Suitable Ingredient Summary 8
ETHNIC BEAUTY What s hot? HAIR Transformation from kinky to curly She s got curls: natural look vs braids and twists SKIN Not too simple: products with multiple benefits No more pimples COLOR Vibrant colors Perfect coverage 9
HAIR From kinky to curly Styling aids are the largest but also fastest growing sector. Strong trend towards innovative textures rather than just functional products. Essential properties are anti-frizz, definition and anti-shrinkage in order to form the perfect curl. Also crucial is edge control for taming baby hair (fly-aways at the hairline) and keeping braids, twists and cornrows in shape. Conventionally the popular products have been anhydrous oleogels (hair food), now also emulsified pastes are entering the market. The water content dilutes the price of the composition, supports a matte appearance and allows the use of water-soluble ingredients. 10
HAIR She s got curls! The movement in favor of natural hair gained strength. Ethnic hair is tightly curled, hard to comb and has low water content. Popular hair cleansers are so-called low poo products which do not contain aggressive surfactants and offer mild cleansing but also strong conditioning and care. 11
HAIR Relaxing is so over! Trendsetter USA Studies show the relaxer segment goes further down, while others such as conditioner and styling agents go up Source: Euromonitor study for Henkel 05-2016 12
HAIR Is South Africa following the natural hair trend? Relaxers still make up the majority of the sector in South Africa but global trends show a swing towards natural hair. 2010 2015, hair care was amongst the fastest growing categories of products sold in South Africa, with sales climbing 38% (Euromonitor report). In the USA the natural hair movement accounted for a 19% drop in relaxer sales between 2013 to 2015 (Mintel report). In South Africa, both early adopters and big brands are seeing gains in the sector, and are moving quickly to fill the services and product gaps that currently exist. Various factors have contributed to the growth of the natural hair movement the global trend of chemical free consumers as well as an increase in consciousness ideas amongst millenials. Source: Huff Post South Africa, Janine Jellars (Partner Studio Editor) 22.05.2017 13
SKIN Not too simple ethnic shades of skin care Skin comes in all colors, from the palest ivory hue to the darkest espresso tone and nearly every shade in between. Anti-aging products exist, but are not that popular as darker skin types age significantly later than lighter ones. Skin care features usually more than just moisturizing, successful products must have additional benefits such as covering and correcting (alphabet creams), supporting even complexion (brightening) or controlling oil. All natural and organic skin care (SheaMoisture, BLAC Minerals, Oriki, Africology) is all the rage also for ethnic beauty products which have been before more price and performance driven. 14
SKIN No more pimples Acne is theoretically color-blind and can occur in any skin type. It often develops when there is an overproduction of oil in the skin. Acne vulgaris is one of the most common skin problems of skin types IV VI which seek dermatological care. Higher pigmented skin has often an overproduction of sebum and is oily and therefore acne-prone. Anti-acne care is the biggest section of skin care after treatments against hyperpigmentation. The additional problem for ethnic skin types are the dark marks acne can leave behind. 15
COLOR Vibrant colors: multi-color for multi-culti The lack of diversity in make-up shades is the cosmetic industry's biggest flaw. Beauty giants like L Oréal are taking now a step in the right direction by launching color cosmetic products in a much broader color range. More mainstream brands (Maybelline, Cover Girl, Revlon) are entering the ethnic color cosmetic market bringing along trends such as multifunctional benefits (anti-pollution, anti-aging, moisturizing), blurring and alphabet creams. 16
COLOR I ve got you covered! Darker skin hues have the tendency to become dull and greyish with the wrong foundation. It is also very rare for ethnic skin tones to be uniform all over as many women have darker areas (e.g. foreheads) and lighter (e.g. cheekbones). The more intense the skin is pigmented, the higher pigmented products are required for seamless coverage of foundations and flawless visibility of blushes and eye shadows. Trendy colors are (liquid) metal tones such as warm silver, copper and bronze, orange and spicy shades (cinnamon, nutmeg, curry etc.). 17
ETHNIC BEAUTY Introduction Trends SUITABLE INGREDIENT Summary 18
MYRICA CERIFERA FRUIT WAX Introduction Naturally derived of from native tree Myrica Pubescens Grows wild in Latin America mainly in Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru In Colombia it is found on the highlands of the Andes (1800 m height). Sustainable harvesting of the fruits is carried out by hundreds of farmers and monitored by UEBT (Union for Ethical Bio Trade). The UEBT ensures conservation and sustainable use of biodiversity, fair and equitable sharing of benefits, regulatory compliance, and social and environmental responsibility. They promote sustainable use of biodiversity in Colombia as a mechanism for its own protection. 19
MYRICA CERIFERA FRUIT WAX Manufacturing procedure Berries are covered with wax After drying berries are washed in hot water The wax is boiled out and skimmed off from the surface Afterwards the wax is carefully filtrated for purification 100% natural process without any chemicals 20
MYRICA CERIFERA FRUIT WAX Sustainability first! After the wax is washed off the fruits are getting shredded. They are used to prepare compost and for fertilization of other plants the farmers have. There is no waste or any unused by-product created in the manufacturing procedure. No solvents or other chemicals have to be disposed of. Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax is a eco-friendly, all-natural, super sustainable success story! 21
MYRICA CERIFERA FRUIT WAX Application Combines a low melting point with a relative high hardness. Due to its low melting point it has an outstanding spreadability. Used in oil control formulations supports dry and velvet feel and silky matte effect. Has an excellent hair conditioning performance (study with type 1 hair tresses). Boosts the performance of low poo products (study with type 5 hair tresses). Gives edge control formulations the ideal hardness. 22
MYRICA CERIFERA FRUIT WAX Reduction of hair shrinkage edge cream low poo untreated % 12 10 Shrinkage = reduction of length from wet to dry hair tress mean values after 20 cycles 8 6 4 2 Defined amount of product applied on 3 towel-dried hair tresses than left to air-dry 0 Edge cream 7% Myrica wax Loo poo 5% Myrica wax untreated 23
MYRICA CERIFERA FRUIT WAX The answer to all requirements Rich but velvety skin feel Very stable, peroxide-free Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax is COSMOS certified for natural cosmetics Use level 3-10% 24
ETHNIC BEAUTY Introduction Trends Suitable Ingredient SUMMARY 25
SUMMARY Ethnic cosmetics no lack of demand! Unique skin needs special care: products are required for a broad range of hair and skin types with different characteristics, from pore size to pigmentation In fact, given that three-quarters of the global population is not white, multicultural beauty is not only the fastest growing market for cosmetics companies, but will become, inevitably, its largest Increase in population comes together with growing middle-class, so the amount of free-spending consumer rises Therefore is ethnic beauty one of the most promising vectors of growth in the expanding personal care market Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax is the ideal ingredient for ethnic beauty products suitable for color cosmetics, skin and hair care 26
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