*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary Two to three stitch back-tack is required at start and finish on hem. Distance of collar point length Thread nests are unacceptable. The vertical centerline of the collar band is determined by the width of the centerplacket. IE; 1 centerfront placket has a 3/4 centerline, 1 1/4 has 5/8 centerline. 3/8 The angle of the collar point buttonhole is determined by dissecting the the length of the collar s straight edge on the cape edge of the collar and scoring a dissect point. Fused Full Ply Interlining - Cut on 45 Degree Bias ng int le po ar Co ll Dissect point Buttonhole will be set back from point of collar 3/8 to outside edge of buttonhole bartack. Band height at centerfront Buttonhole should extend 1/8 past the centerline towards the outer edge of the band end. Tol is +/- 1/16 1/8 Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks Buttonhole will cut through topstitching. Trim Collar face & full patch interlining at point to reduce fabric at tip Buttonhole opening (from inside end tacks) needs to be 7/16 for a 13,14, or 15 ligne size button 5/8 for a 16 or 17 ligne size button Fused Full Patch Interlining - Cut on Warp Epaulet should lay flat and must not gap between button and armhole stitching. Button must be sewn on with proper thread shank height and be lock stitched on the backside of the band. Buttonholes must be cleanly cut 3/8 Centerline of front placket (Cut on or Cut off placket shown) Not Acceptable Nosing at the start and finish of hem must align to the edge of the fronts, and not exceed 1/8. Not Acceptable Dotted Red line is showing where the top of the band sits below the cut out on the patch. The cut out allows the collar to have a clean collar break, and helps control the collar from rolling up. Excessive roping is not acceptable. COLLAR BAND BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT TWO PLY INTERLINED COLLAR REQUIREMENTS BOX PLEAT REQUIREMENTS Topstitch Tension and Formation must lay flat and be pucker free. CUT OFF FRONT PLACKET Back/Yoke Seam requires 12 to 14 Stitches Per Inch, 14 to 16 SPI on Apt 9 (if applicable). Used on all fabrics with a pattern repeat of 1/4 or more. Common or engineered centerline needs to be established prior to production. Centerline must be used on both upper and under front, so pattern repeat is consistent. Normally Interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch. 1/8 OR FURTHER FROM EDGE Locker Loop is to be inserted in Yoke Seam 5/16. Tolerance +0 / -1/8. D E FULL WRAP OR DOUBLE FOLD PLACKET Anchored by Buttonhole Frayed yarns must be warp yarns only. Usually stitched at outer edge of placket to secure inner cut edge of front. Can also be clean finished with no top stitch. Depending on fabric, raw edge should be secured with overlock safety stitch, if not fused. Fused interlining applied to inside edge of fold. SINGLE FOLD FRONT PLACKET Box Pleat must touch but not overlap at the center. Tolerance +/- 1/16. 13/4 Box Pleat to be proportioned equally from center of pleat to the outer edges. (Msmt. Pts. D & E) Tolerance +/- 1/16. 1 Anchored by Buttonhole 1/16 Raw edge must be secured with overlock safety stitch. Usually unlined, but can be made using a fusible interlining that is fused to the inside edge. Overlock still required. (1 Box Pleat - Example) SHOULDER EPAULET SETTING AND GRADING Bottom Hem Construction Standards Box Pleat, Yoke Seam & Locker Loop Requirements 13 TO 14 15 TO 16 LINED Front Center Placket Description & Requirements 9/16 5/8 UNLINED KNIFE CUT BUTTONHOLE SIZE KNIFE CUT 3/8 9/16 3/8 7/16 5/8 7/16 Under Placket 90 120 11/16 5/8 7/16 130 19 TO 20 3/4 9/16 11/16 140 23 TO 24 13/16 13/16 5/8 5/8 3/4 13/16 9/16 5/8 140 150 Applies to light weight to medium weight woven shirtings, heavier fabrics may require adjustments. Stitch counts are for Tex 24 Poly Core Poly Wrap Thread, stitch counts may need reduction if heavier tex thread used. Buttonhole and knife cut should allow button to slide easily into buttonhole but not allow if to slip out if stressed The Lined column is for components such as top centers, cuffs, neckbands, flaps and BD collars The unlined column is for components like sleeve plackets, button thru pockets, unlined front plackets or any part of the garment where interlining is not used. BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE SIZES & STITCH SETTINGS Shank Height of button attach needs to match thickness of the upper placket. Should not exceed thickness. Upper Placket Thickness Unless specified as parallel stitch, all button sewing is to be a locking cross stitch. 16 stitch count minimum Button hole should be a minimum of 1/8 longer then button. SLEEVEPLACKET & TWO BTN ADJ CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS SLEEVEPLACKET & CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS Button sewing thread tails should be trim to be no more than 1/16 in length. No looping threads or bulky thread nests Upper Placket MIN STITCH REQ 17 TO 18 21 TO 22 Length of Locker Loop after inserted should be 1 7/8 Tolerance +1/4 / -0. Finished Dimensions of Locker Loop before inserted should be no less than 2 5/8 L X 1/8 W. FOLD BACK FRONT (TO THE BACK) PLACKET Also used for under front hem. Normally interlined. Chain or lock stitch used for Top stitch. Box Pleat must be centered on the back/yoke seam. (Msmt. Pts. B & C) Tolerance +/- 1/8. Straight hems or greater should have no less than 3/8 turned under. BUTTON LIGNE SIZE BUTTONHOLE SIZE LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS FOR 1 PLEAT Box Pleat (A) to measure as specified on the Product Specifications. Tolerance +/- 1/16. Another option that is used is to not have any legs on the patch and to have the entire patch sit above the top of the band. COLLAR POINT BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT Only use on solid fabric or pattern repeats of a 1/4 or less. Normally interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch. Button Label Yoke is to be flipped back and not caught in the Topstitch. C 1/4 or under - Hem Construction Excessive curling of hem is not acceptable. Frayed yarns must be secure by stitching. A These requirements will also apply to Inverted Box Pleats. Left and right front bottom hems should align on each other and be balanced at center. (Tolerance -+ 1/8 ) Frayed yarns must be trimmed within 1/8. B EXAMPLE: Nosing at start and finish. Bottom hems must be circular / post hemmed. Ends of Bottom hem must be closed by 1/16 SN/Edge stitch CUT ON FRONT PLACKET Top stitch on Yoke Seam is to be an Edge Stitch, not to exceed 1/16. Edge stitch must not run off. Straight hems or greater must have ends 1/16 edge stitched closed Repairs must not be visible, all thread tails must be trimmed and have no heavy concentration of back-tacking. Approx 1/8 above top of band A minimum Yoke Seam of 3/8 is required. Tail Contour must be consistent from left to right front. Tolerance 1/4 Epaulet must always be set into armhole, unless called out. Collar stitch line Epaulet should be sewn down with Armhole stitch, unless called out. Button is set on the vertical & horizontal centerline of the band. Tol is +/- 1/16 Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks Buttonholes must not be recycled or double stitched Alignment notches for the patch Epaulet length from shoulder to shoulder must be maintained at the same length Tolerance +/- 1/8 BOX PLEAT, YOKE SEAM & LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS 11/03/11 - SHW 3/16/10 - SHW WOVEN SHIRTING BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE SIZES AND STITCH SETTINGS Only used on fabric that does not have a right or wrong side, not to be used on Apt 9. Normally interlined, but can be optional. Chain or Lock stitch used for top stitch. All seams must be free of frays, and broken stitches. Sewing threads should be trimmed within an 1/8. Epaulet width must be maintained from shoulder to shoulder +/- 1/16 Horizontal centerline on the band is half the distance of the band height, measured from the bottom of the band to the top of the band, parallel as shown th Inside edges of end tacks Distance between point of epaulet should be maintained on all sizes Tolerance +/- 1/4 FOLD TO THE FACE SIDE FRONT PLACKET UNDERARM SEAM UNDERARM SEAM 1 LAST BTN Button cluster center Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket opening and set in from edge so button should be set at on edge of placket. All layers will give more support and strength to the button sew. Sleeve placket buttonhole should be centered on the width of the sleeve placket and in line with the cuff buttonhole s inside end tack Knife should cut from bar to bar, no more than 1/16 left uncut inside buttonhole Width or needle throw of buttonhole stitch should be adjusted so buttonhole stitch is as close to the knife as possible to reduce frayed yarns. The needle throw may need to be adjusted due to the fabrication or thickness of the placket Minimum throw width is 3/64 5/64 width to be used on fabrics such as Knit Pique or Woven Flannels Buttonholes should be cleanly cut with no untrimmed warp or wale yarns or badly frayed weft or course yarns CROFT & BARROW DRESS SHIRTS FACE SIDE OF FABRIC 1 Buttons need to be set from the edge of the cuff regardless if one, two button adjustable or two/three stacked buttons Buttonhole should be set so the inside of the end tack is at Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket opening and set in from edge so button should be set at on edge of placket. All layers will give more support and strength to the button sew. Never set the button off the edge of the placket Buttons need to be set from the edge of the cuff regardless if one, two button adjustable or two/three stacked buttons Sleeve placket buttonhole should be centered on the width of the sleeve placket and in line with the cuff buttonhole s inside end tack. For sleeve plackets specified less then 1 in width, b hole & button should still be centered on the opening. 1 * Buttonhole should be set so the inside of the end tack is at regardless of the sleeve placket width *NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary *NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary Extra buttons sewn to face side of the under front (men s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8 apart. Thread to match button Button Cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button LAST BTN THREAD POST UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW & APT 9 DRESS & DRESSY CASUALS All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8. Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirement Extra button alignment needs to be uniform Buttons to be lockstitched Buttons to be cross stitched unless two hole 16 stitch minimum Thread shanks not required on extra button LAST BTN THREAD POST UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC Button cluster center APT 9 DRESS SHIRT & DRESSY CASUALS Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8 ` apart. Thread to match or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men s dress shirts is 3/4 Both buttons must align horizontally, Field of Tol +/- 1/8 Buttons must align horizontally to the buttonhole, Tol is 1/8 Edges of collar should align on top of each other, when properly aligned shape should not vary more t 1/16, and be consistent from side to side 2 All labeling should be centered on the fold line tolerance +/- 1/8 2 EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW, HAWK SONOMA, URBAN PIPELINE, APT 9 SPORT SHIRTS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 2 SMALL BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men s & Young Men s casual shirts is 1 X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON Center of cluster SPORT/CASUAL SHIRTS WITH FOLD BACK UNDERFRONT HEM Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4 apart. Thread to match or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button If only two buttons are required, top button is centered, other is set below 2. BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 2 SMALL BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL LAST BTN THREAD POST UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC Center of cluster 3/4 1 7/8 Pleat placement field of tolerance SPORT SHIRTS WITH DOUBLE FOLD OR SINGLE FOLD BACK FRONT PLACKETS Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front PLACKET only, not through face side of front Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4 apart. Thread can match button or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button If only two buttons are required, top button is centered, other is set below All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8. Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirement Extra button alignment needs to be uniform Buttons to be lockstitched Buttons to be cross stitched unless two hole 16 stitch minimum Thread shanks not required on extra button Buttonhole & Button Sewing Requirements Cuff & Placket Two Btn Adj & Btnhole Requirements Men s Woven Dress Shirt Exra Button Requirements Men s Woven Sport Shirt Extra Button Requirements After aligning check point button placement, buttons (re-enforcement disc) must touch to be within tolerance Shoulder seams should lay on top of ea other. If they do not you must measure use the following methods to verify the the shoulder seam. 1. Measure along the bottom of the col on both sides from the center fold line t verify yoke seaming. Tolerance +/- 1/8 SLEEVE PLEATS 2. Measure along bottom of the collar o both sides from the band end to the yo seam. Tolerance +/- 1/8 POSITION OF FIRST PLEAT - 2 in from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8 POSITION OF SECOND PLEAT - 2 or as specified from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8 DEPTHS OF PLEATS - or as specified. - Tolerance - + 1/8 or as specified PLEATS ARE TO UNIFORM, AND SHOULD NOT OVERLAP, - Tolerance 1/8 PLEAT PLACEMENT MUST BE CONSISTENT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT SLEEVE. Cuff & Placket Button & Buttonhole Requirements 1. Sleeve Pleats Construction FOLD THE SHIRT INSIDE OUT ALIGNING THE COLLAR POINTS, THE BAND ENDS, AND THE TOP FRONT BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE. Quartering the Collar Guideline
Distance of collar point length 3/8 po ar Co ll Dissect point int le ng th The angle of the collar point buttonhole is determined by dissecting the the length of the collar s straight edge on the cape edge of the collar and scoring a dissect point. Buttonhole will be set back from point of collar 3/8 to outside edge of buttonhole bartack. Buttonhole will cut through topstitching. Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks Buttonhole opening (from inside end tacks) needs to be 7/16 for a 13,14, or 15 ligne size button 5/8 for a 16 or 17 ligne size button Buttonholes must be cleanly cut Buttonholes must not be recycled or double stitched COLLAR POINT BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
The vertical centerline of the collar band is determined by the width of the centerplacket. IE; 1 centerfront placket has a 3/4 centerline, 1 1/4 has 5/8 centerline. Inside edges of end tacks Band height at centerfront Horizontal centerline on the band is half the distance of the band height, measured from the bottom of the band to the top of the band, parallel as shown Buttonhole should extend 1/8 past the centerline towards the outer edge of the band end. Tol is +/- 1/16 1/8 Buttonhole is to be cut from inside end tacks to tacks Button is set on the vertical & horizontal centerline of the band. Tol is +/- 1/16 Button must be sewn on with proper thread shank height and be lock stitched on the backside of the band. Centerline of front placket (Cut on or Cut off placket shown) COLLAR BAND BUTTON AND BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT
Fused Full Ply Interlining - Cut on 45 Degree Bias Alignment notches for the patch Trim Collar face & full patch interlining at point to reduce fabric at tip Collar stitch line Fused Full Patch Interlining - Cut on Warp 3/8 Approx 1/8 above top of band Dotted Red line is showing where the top of the band sits below the cut out on the patch. The cut out allows the collar to have a clean collar break, and helps control the collar from rolling up. Another option that is used is to not have any legs on the patch and to have the entire patch sit above the top of the band. TWO PLY INTERLINED COLLAR REQUIREMENTS
Distance between point of epaulet should be maintained on all sizes Tolerance +/- 1/4 Epaulet width must be maintained from shoulder to shoulder +/- 1/16 Epaulet length from shoulder to shoulder must be maintained at the same length Tolerance +/- 1/8 Epaulet must always be set into armhole, unless called out. Epaulet should be sewn down with Armhole stitch, unless called out. Epaulet should lay flat and must not gap between button and armhole stitching. SHOULDER EPAULET SETTING AND GRADING
Two to three stitch back-tack is required at start and finish on hem. Thread nests are unacceptable. Sewing threads should be trimmed within an 1/8. Not Acceptable Tail Contour must be consistent from left to right front. Tolerance 1/4 Straight hems or greater must have ends 1/16 edge stitched closed Nosing at the start and finish of hem must align to the edge of the fronts, and not exceed 1/8. Not Acceptable EXAMPLE: Nosing at start and finish. Bottom hems must be circular / post hemmed. Ends of Bottom hem must be closed by 1/16 SN/Edge stitch Left and right front bottom hems should align on each other and be balanced at center. (Tolerance -+ 1/8 ) 1/4 or under - Hem Construction Excessive curling of hem is not acceptable. Excessive roping is not acceptable. Repairs must not be visible, all thread tails must be trimmed and have no heavy concentration of back-tacking. Frayed yarns must be trimmed within 1/8. Frayed yarns must be secure by stitching. Straight hems or greater should have no less than 3/8 turned under. Frayed yarns must be warp yarns only. Bottom Hem Construction Standards
All seams must be free of frays, and broken stitches. BOX PLEAT, YOKE SEAM & LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS A minimum Yoke Seam of 3/8 is required. Top stitch on Yoke Seam is to be an Edge Stitch, not to exceed 1/16. Edge stitch must not run off. B A Label Yoke is to be flipped back and not caught in the Topstitch. C Topstitch Tension and Formation must lay flat and be pucker free. Back/Yoke Seam requires 12 to 14 Stitches Per Inch, 14 to 16 SPI on Apt 9 (if applicable). BOX PLEAT REQUIREMENTS LOCKER LOOP REQUIREMENTS FOR 1 PLEAT Locker Loop is to be inserted in Yoke Seam 5/16. Tolerance +0 / -1/8. These requirements will also apply to Inverted Box Pleats. D E Box Pleat (A) to measure as specified on the Product Specifications. Tolerance +/- 1/16. Length of Locker Loop after inserted should be 1 7/8 Tolerance +1/4 / -0. Finished Dimensions of Locker Loop before inserted should be no less than 2 5/8 L X 1/8 W. Box Pleat must be centered on the back/yoke seam. (Msmt. Pts. B & C) Tolerance +/- 1/8. Box Pleat must touch but not overlap at the center. Tolerance +/- 1/16. 13/4 Box Pleat to be proportioned equally from center of pleat to the outer edges. (Msmt. Pts. D & E) Tolerance +/- 1/16. 1 1/16 (1 Box Pleat - Example) Box Pleat, Yoke Seam & Locker Loop Requirements
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary FOLD TO THE FACE SIDE FRONT PLACKET Only used on fabric that does not have a right or wrong side, not to be used on Apt 9. Normally interlined, but can be optional. Chain or Lock stitch used for top stitch. CUT ON FRONT PLACKET Only use on solid fabric or pattern repeats of a 1/4 or less. Normally interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch. CUT OFF FRONT PLACKET Used on all fabrics with a pattern repeat of 1/4 or more. Common or engineered centerline needs to be established prior to production. Centerline must be used on both upper and under front, so pattern repeat is consistent. Normally Interlined. Chain stitch used for Top stitch. 1/8 OR FURTHER FROM EDGE FOLD BACK FRONT (TO THE BACK) PLACKET Also used for under front hem. Normally interlined. Chain or lock stitch used for Top stitch. FULL WRAP OR DOUBLE FOLD PLACKET Anchored by Buttonhole Usually stitched at outer edge of placket to secure inner cut edge of front. Can also be clean finished with no top stitch. Depending on fabric, raw edge should be secured with overlock safety stitch, if not fused. Fused interlining applied to inside edge of fold. SINGLE FOLD FRONT PLACKET Anchored by Buttonhole Raw edge must be secured with overlock safety stitch. Usually unlined, but can be made using a fusible interlining that is fused to the inside edge. Overlock still required. Front Center Placket Description & Requirements
Button Button sewing thread tails should be trim to be no more than 1/16 in length. No looping threads or bulky thread nests Upper Placket Under Placket Shank Height of button attach needs to match thickness of the upper placket. Should not exceed thickness. Upper Placket Thickness Unless specified as parallel stitch, all button sewing is to be a locking cross stitch. 16 stitch count minimum Button hole should be a minimum of 1/8 longer then button. Knife should cut from bar to bar, no more than 1/16 left uncut inside buttonhole Width or needle throw of buttonhole stitch should be adjusted so buttonhole stitch is as close to the knife as possible to reduce frayed yarns. The needle throw may need to be adjusted due to the fabrication or thickness of the placket Minimum throw width is 3/64 5/64 width to be used on fabrics such as Knit Pique or Woven Flannels Buttonholes should be cleanly cut with no untrimmed warp or wale yarns or badly frayed weft or course yarns Buttonhole & Button Sewing Requirements
3/16/10 - SHW SLEEVEPLACKET & CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS UNDERARM SEAM 1 Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket opening and set in from edge so button should be set at on edge of placket. All layers will give more support and strength to the button sew. Buttons need to be set from the edge of the cuff regardless if one, two button adjustable or two/three stacked buttons Sleeve placket buttonhole should be centered on the width of the sleeve placket and in line with the cuff buttonhole s inside end tack Buttonhole should be set so the inside of the end tack is at X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON Cuff & Placket Button & Buttonhole Requirements
11/03/11 - SHW SLEEVEPLACKET & TWO BTN ADJ CUFF BUTTON PLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS UNDERARM SEAM 1 Sleeve placket button should be centered on placket opening and set in from edge so button should be set at on edge of placket. All layers will give more support and strength to the button sew. Never set the button off the edge of the placket Buttons need to be set from the edge of the cuff regardless if one, two button adjustable or two/three stacked buttons Sleeve placket buttonhole should be centered on the width of the sleeve placket and in line with the cuff buttonhole s inside end tack. For sleeve plackets specified less then 1 in width, b hole & button should still be centered on the opening. 1 * Buttonhole should be set so the inside of the end tack is at regardless of the sleeve placket width X-STITCH ATTACH BUTTON Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men s & Young Men s casual shirts is 1 Distance between adjustable buttons on all Men s dress shirts is 3/4 Both buttons must align horizontally, Field of Tol +/- 1/8 Buttons must align horizontally to the buttonhole, Tol is 1/8 Cuff & Placket Two Btn Adj & Btnhole Requirements
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary CROFT & BARROW DRESS SHIRTS LAST BTN FACE SIDE OF FABRIC Button cluster center Extra buttons sewn to face side of the under front (men s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8 apart. Thread to match button Button Cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW & APT 9 DRESS & DRESSY CASUALS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 2 SMALL BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8. Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirement Extra button alignment needs to be uniform Buttons to be lockstitched Buttons to be cross stitched unless two hole 16 stitch minimum Thread shanks not required on extra button LAST BTN THREAD POST UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC Button cluster center APT 9 DRESS SHIRT & DRESSY CASUALS Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/8 ` apart. Thread to match or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button Men s Woven Dress Shirt Exra Button Requirements
*NOTE: Interlining not shown & Top stitching may vary LAST BTN THREAD POST UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC Center of cluster SPORT/CASUAL SHIRTS WITH FOLD BACK UNDERFRONT HEM Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front (men s right front) Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4 apart. Thread to match or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button If only two buttons are required, top button is centered, other is set below EXTRA BUTTON COUNT FOR CROFT & BARROW, HAWK SONOMA, URBAN PIPELINE, APT 9 SPORT SHIRTS BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 2 SMALL BUTTON DOWN COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, LONG SLEEVE = 1 LARGE & 1 SMALL NON-BD COLLAR, SHORT SLEEVE = 2 LARGE, NO SMALL LAST BTN THREAD POST UNDER SIDE OF FABRIC Center of cluster SPORT SHIRTS WITH DOUBLE FOLD OR SINGLE FOLD BACK FRONT PLACKETS Extra buttons sewn to under side of the under front PLACKET only, not through face side of front Buttons should be spaced no more than 1/4 apart. Thread can match button or blend with fabric Button cluster centered between bottom hem and last functional front button If only two buttons are required, top button is centered, other is set below All thread tails must be trimmed to be no longer then 1/8. Excessive thread nests or long loops are not acceptable. Refer to spec for extra button requirement Extra button alignment needs to be uniform Buttons to be lockstitched Buttons to be cross stitched unless two hole 16 stitch minimum Thread shanks not required on extra button Men s Woven Sport Shirt Extra Button Requirements
2 2 3/4 1 7/8 Pleat placement field of tolerance SLEEVE PLEATS POSITION OF FIRST PLEAT - 2 in from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8 POSITION OF SECOND PLEAT - 2 or as specified from outer edge of placket - Tolerance 1/8 DEPTHS OF PLEATS - or as specified. - Tolerance - + 1/8 or as specified PLEATS ARE TO UNIFORM, AND SHOULD NOT OVERLAP, - Tolerance 1/8 PLEAT PLACEMENT MUST BE CONSISTENT FROM LEFT TO RIGHT SLEEVE. Sleeve Pleats Construction
Edges of collar should align on top of each other, when properly aligned shape should not vary more than 1/16, and be consistent from side to side All labeling should be centered on the fold line tolerance +/- 1/8 2. 1. After aligning check point button placement, buttons (re-enforcement disc) must touch to be within tolerance Shoulder seams should lay on top of each other. If they do not you must measure use the following methods to verify the the shoulder seam. 1. Measure along the bottom of the collar on both sides from the center fold line to verify yoke seaming. Tolerance +/- 1/8 2. Measure along bottom of the collar on both sides from the band end to the yoke seam. Tolerance +/- 1/8 FOLD THE SHIRT INSIDE OUT ALIGNING THE COLLAR POINTS, THE BAND ENDS, AND THE TOP FRONT BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE. Quartering the Collar Guideline
Stitching and tip of sleeve placket must be uniformed Examples of unacceptable shaping and stitching Stitch more One side Tip off center than 1/16 lower from edge On a One piece placket care must be taken to avoid gutters and puckering 1/16 Single Needle lock Stitching on dog house stitch formation must be secure with 2 to 3 stitch backtacks. Stitching must not run off, & all thread tails are to be trimmed Button & Buttonhole centered on opening Tol +/- 1/8 Button & Buttonhole centered on width of placket Tol +/- 1/8 Placket must lay flat, no gapping between button & top or bottom of placket opening. On two piece placket, under placket must a min of 3/8 past the button sew post. Button must not sit at edge of underplacket No roping or twisting. Length of the underplacket & upper placket must be the same length Tol +/- 1/8 Underplacket must not be visible when placket & cuff are buttoned, No more than 1/16 of the underplacket Sleeve Placket Construction Requirements
SINGLE NEEDLE ARMHOLE Stitch line to be consistent at a 3/8 margin, or margin specified. Tolerance +-1/16. All armhole seams must be folder set with no raw edges or overlock safety stitch unless approval is given prior to sampling. SINGLE NEEDLE OR TWO NEEDLE SIDE SEAM Stitch line should be consistent on seam, and not sway. Tolerance +-1/16. Both Single Needle and Two needle stitching should be sewn on front panels with seam opening to the back. 3/8 or as specified All seams should be free of frayed fabric or threads. Frayed fabric must be locked in by the stitch, and not exceed 3/16. SLEEVE ALIGNMENT (ARMHOLE SEAM) Sleeve seam should align on all fabrications. Tolerance +- 1/4. (See Illustration to right for example) 1/4 REPAIRS Any repairs must not be visible, there should not be thread tails, no visual needle holes, or heavy concentration of threads due to backtacking. Sideseam and Armhole Construction
Edges of collar should align on top of each other, when properly aligned shape should not vary more than 1/16, and be consistent from side to side All labeling should be centered on the fold line tolerance +/- 1/8 2. 1. After aligning check point button placement, buttons (re-enforcement disc) must touch to be within tolerance Shoulder seams should lay on top of each other. If they do not you must measure use the following methods to verify the the shoulder seam. 1. Measure along the bottom of the collar on both sides from the center fold line to verify yoke seaming. Tolerance +/- 1/8 2. Measure along bottom of the collar on both sides from the band end to the yoke seam. Tolerance +/- 1/8 FOLD THE SHIRT INSIDE OUT ALIGNING THE COLLAR POINTS, THE BAND ENDS, AND THE TOP FRONT BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE. Quartering the Collar Guideline