Greater China 20 Exploring opportunities in China s jewellery sector 24 Brand-building in China s jewellery market

In the February 2016 issue Issue number 378 CONTENTS Greater China 20 Exploring opportunities in China s jewellery sector 24 Brand-building in China s jewellery market 16 64 Jewellery 26 HK jeweller sees steady growth in global markets 30 Hong Kong manufacturer stays positive amid uncertainties 34 DewCarat upbeat on prospects for 2016 36 Jewellery brand eyes retail partnerships 38 Swiss jeweller highlights contemporary designs Conversations 42 Fine jewellery pays homage to self-expression The 2nd Skin Co News 8 Harry Winston offers Valentine s Day jewels 10 Bulgari unveils B.zero1 jewellery line 12 Niessing Phoenix Collection from Lee Hwa Jewellery JNA Style File 14 Easy pairings 16 For Valentina: Enchanting and ultra-feminine 18 Modern energy Next issue In our March 2016 issue, don t miss JNA s special preview on the third edition of Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe (JGF Europe). The trade show, an effective mid- to high-end jewellery sourcing event for continental Europe, is scheduled for March 19 to 22 in Messe Freiburg, Germany. * All figures in this publication are in US dollars unless otherwise stated. Design 44 Lapidary arts Technology 47 Gemmological services 48 IGI reinvigorates gemstone grading and certification 50 CDTEC Gemlab sets sights on Asia 52 GIA: Revolutionising gemmological expertise 54 GRS rises at the helm of gem treatment detection 56 HRD Antwerp takes lead in diamond grading and gemmological education 58 IIDGR: Raising the bar in diamond grading technology 60 Heraeus companies achieve RJC certification 62 Wax injector from Italian manufacturer Trade Fairs 64 Gems & jewels 72 Fine jewellery shines at Taiwan Fair 73 Shanghai fair attracts more than 5,000 buyers Pearls 74 Leading pearling company puts focus on education 76 Bright outlook for fine-quality Tahitian pearls Gemstones 80 Mozambique s fiery red beauties 88 Germany s true gems 92 Gemstone specialist sees solid demand for tanzanite and emerald Diamonds 94 De Beers to restructure Global Sightholder Sales 96 Borsa Istanbul, WDM to promote consumer trust and confidence in diamonds 98 The beauty of fancy coloured diamonds 99 Lucapa uncovers 133.4-carat diamond at Lulo 100 Rio Tinto s rough output up 25% in 2015 101 55.64-carat diamond recovered from Baoulé kimberlite On the Cover Leaf-inspired gold ring with multi-coloured sapphires and diamonds from Mousson Atelier s Fall Collection. The Russian jeweller is known for its wide range of colourful and contemporary collections adorned with emeralds, blue and fancy sapphires, tanzanites, tsavorites, tourmalines and pearls, among others. It is also famous for using enamel in its designs. Mousson Atelier is showcasing its latest jewellery lines at the March Hong Kong Fair. For more details about the latest finished jewellery collections and fine gems that will be presented in Hong Kong, turn to page 64. 4 February 2016

NEWS Harry Winston offers Valentine s Day jewels The House of Harry Winston celebrates Valentine s Day with a selected range of products that includes diamond and coloured gemstone jewellery in contemporary and classical designs. Throughout its history, Harry Winston has played a prominent role in some of the most celebrated love stories of all time. From the diamond engagement ring that Aristotle Onassis gave to Jacqueline Kennedy to the famous pear-shaped Taylor-Burton diamond, Mr. Winston believed that all great romances should be marked with even greater stones, the jewellery house said. The Valentine s Day jewellery line includes Incredibles, which Pavé diamond Heart and Love Letter charms features one-ofa-kind pieces that underscore the uniqueness of every couple s love story; nature-inspired jewellery items that showcase Harry Winston s classic floral designs; and Charms, which presents pieces that commemorate one of the most time-honoured expressions of true love the love letter. Inspired by the sincerity and beauty of the love letter, Harry Winston designers imagined a modern interpretation of this beloved gesture through heartand envelope-shaped diamond jewellery. The Colors of Harry Winston, for its part, highlights the many colours of love with its various product segments. Crossover by Harry Winston stays true to the House s diamond-led philosophy as represented in striking rows of round brilliant diamonds and rubies expertly Cross necklace with rubies and diamonds from the Incredibles Collection and Crossover ruby and diamond rings arranged in a mesmerising circular motif. Secret Cluster by Harry Winston reinterprets the jeweller s most iconic design clustering through a delicate ribbon of diamonds accented by a bouquet of round-, pear- and marquiseshaped stones. The pink sapphire diamond ring in Harry Winston s Collection of Rare Jewels, meanwhile, celebrates the beauty of the world s most precious gemstones. Each extraordinary piece is of the highest standards, according to the company. JNA Estate jewellery from online retailer Blue Nile Online fine jewellery retailer Blue Nile, Inc recently launched its Estate Jewelry Collection, which it said is a celebration of classical jewellery designs. The company said each piece in the collection was handpicked by its fine jewellery experts who closely examined the items for quality, originality and craftsmanship. The pieces include creations by well-known jewellers such as Marina B and JE Caldwell. The ornate collection appeals to a wide range of artistic tastes and budgets, and can be viewed by smartphone, tablet or desktop computer, Blue Nile said. The vintage jewellery pieces, adorned with diamonds and coloured gemstones, are available in the following price ranges: Under $10,000, under $20,000 and under $100,000. Blue Nile earlier reported that its net sales increased by 4 percent to $109.9 million for the third quarter of 2015 compared to $105.8 million in the same period in 2014. Harvey Kanter, Blue Nile chairman, CEO and president, said the company has expanded its profitability while at the same time investing in initiatives to drive greater long-term growth. These initiatives, which include online and offline marketing, and the Webroom concept, focus on building awareness and generating a greater level of trust for buying diamonds and fine jewellery online, Kanter continued. JNA 8

NEWS Bulgari unveils B.zero1 jewellery line Bulgari recently introduced its B.zero1 perfect mistake jewellery line, a bolder, more modern version of the jeweller s revolutionary collection. The iconic B.zero1 spiral is enriched by a clever combination of pink, white and yellow gold, featuring geometric and symmetrical designs. The new ring is also presented in a two-gold edition white and pink gold and a version to swing from two fancy pendants. In the daring spirit of gold juxtaposition, this new B.zero1 Collection goes even further; three bangles and two other precious interpretations feature glimmers of diamonds in white or pink gold, Bulgari noted. B.zero1 pink and white gold pendant The first B.zero1 ring was unveiled in 1999. The design pays tribute to Rome s great Colosseums the apex of Bulgari s ancient past while its architectural volume shone with the modernity of artistic installations and the audacious spirit of the brand. B.zero1 s unconventional lines are testament to Bulgari s revolutionary spirit. Pioneering and creative, Bulgari has earned a reputation as a master of innovation for its novel approach to design. Whether born of a revolutionary mind or a happy coincidence, the ability to think outside of the box is a part of the Bulgari DNA and the driving force behind B.zero1, noted the jeweller. The B.zero1 perfect mistake jewels are the embodiment of love, passion, duration, commitment Pink, white and yellow gold fourband ring from the B.zero1 Collection and even mistakes that each love story entails, according to Bulgari. Carved with the round spiral of the B.zero1 Collection, perfect mistake symbolises the infinity of love, and the uniqueness incarnated in every Bulgari jewel and in every love story, it added. JNA B.zero1 pink gold bangle bracelet with pavé diamonds KGK expands foothold in Australia The KGK Group has expanded its reach in Australia with the recent acquisition of Australia-based diamond and jewellery company, Ausdiam Pty Ltd. The Australian firm s name will be changed to KGK Ausdiam Pty Ltd. The move effectively boosts KGK Group s global presence to 16 countries in six continents, the company said in a press release. KGK Group s recent global expansion the addition of various mines and jewellery brands under its portfolio has been carefully planned and strategised, according to the company. Sanjay Kothari, vice chairman of the group, commented, It gives me immense pleasure that our efforts have played a vital role in expanding KGK s global presence. Ausdiam is known for its fine product range. It is an honour for us that it will now be operating as part of our KGK family. Ausdiam is a wholesaler of diamonds and fine diamond jewellery in gold. The KGK Group, founded in 1905 by the Kothari family of Jaipur, is a global corporation with fully integrated operations in the gemstone and jewellery industry. A De Beers Sightholder, Alrosa Alliance member and a Rio Tinto Select Diamantaire, KGK is an established name in the Sanjay Kothari, vice chairman of the KGK Group manufacture and distribution of diamonds, coloured gemstones and fine jewellery. JNA 10

NEWS Niessing Phoenix Collection from Lee Hwa Jewellery A new collection of gold and platinum jewellery showcasing the beauty of the red-gold feathered phoenix from Singapore s Lee Hwa Jewellery will be on offer starting from April. The Niessing Phoenix Collection takes inspiration from the fiery phoenix a symbol of eternal renewal and re-creation. The collection includes a statement necklace, a bracelet and a ring. Each piece is an architectural wonder with Niessing craftsmen employing ingenious techniques to wield identical discs of precious metal to form an elegant and armoured collection, according to Lee Hwa Jewellery. The pieces are available in 18-karat rose or white gold. The Niessing Phoenix Necklace drapes over the contours of the body. Each intertwined disc is fluid and is set in motion with the slightest movement of the wearer. The Niessing Phoenix Bracelet and Ring, meanwhile, feature small, slender identical discs of platinum or gold playfully merging together. The interplay of the precious metal, innovative designs and quality workmanship resulted in a textured, three-dimensional piece of wearable art, the jeweller noted. Niessing Phoenix rings Adeline Chang, brand manager of Lee Hwa Jewellery, commented, These unique contemporary pieces, brushed in fine matte finish, is the perfect chemistry of fine craftsmanship, exploration and adoption of state-of-the-art techniques. JNA Celebrate love with CARAT* London s Valentine s Day picks CARAT* London presents a wide selection of classic and contemporary jewellery in celebration of Valentine s Day. The Classics line highlights timeless love with polished pieces while the Contemporary collection celebrates the thrill of new love with rose gold pieces that include back earrings or two-row bracelets, among other offerings. Pear Bermuda studded pendant in rose gold finish from CARAT* London The Romantic collection, meanwhile, embodies the spirit of Valentine s Day with sparkling heartshaped items, according to the company. Founded by Scott Thompson in 2003, CARAT* London is one of the world s leading fashion fine jewellery houses. Its products combine timeless glamour with modern concepts, the company said. The jeweller has boutiques in London, Hong Kong, Shanghai and 250 points of sale around the globe. Orion Ring in rose gold from CARAT* London CARAT* London s Leia Metallica back earrings in rose gold Celebrities such as Ellie Goulding, Lady Gaga, Rita Ora, Lily Allen, Lucy-Mecklenburgh, Mel B, Fearne Cotton and Courtney Love Cobain, to name a few, have worn CARAT* London s creations. Our designs are conceived and developed in-house and are crafted using precision hand-cut gemstones. Each piece of jewellery is held to our highest standards. Our goal is to imagine and create the most exquisite jewellery, the company said. JNA 12

JEWELLERY DewCarat upbeat on prospects for 2016 Hong Kong-based coloured gemstone jewellery specialist DewCarat is optimistic about its outlook for 2016 after delivering a solid business performance last year. We are fortunate enough to say that the majority of our new collections performed spectacularly, maintaining success through several demographics, DewCarat Vice President Tiffany Tse said. The jewellery manufacturer is confident that it will maintain its growth momentum this year. Our outlook for DewCarat in 2016 is quite optimistic. As global trends fluctuate, we have turned our focus to two main sectors classical staples of fine jewellery re-imagined and re-mastered in colour, and collections of unique, refined accoutrements for many occasions, Tse said. This year, the manufacturer will keep its focus on the biggest trends on the runways and the season s colours. With an eye on international fashion, we re working to supply trending colours and aesthetics, she explained. We re excited to launch several collections in the upcoming seasons. From 100-carat-plus genuine gemstone cocktail rings to sweeping Rivieras (classic necklaces that sit comfortably on the neck), we re stretching across all borders in our quest for colour. Asked to share her insights on what she believes would be the most pressing concerns in the industry this year, Tse said continued uncertainties about the outlook for demand remains a big challenge for every jeweller. Due to the volatile state of international affairs, its effects on the ever-sensitive jewellery and luxury industry cannot fully be predicted. However, it is always wise to stay abreast of current affairs, she said. Founded 36 years ago by Dewey Tse, DewCarat has a knack for introducing collections that cater to a specific country or market s tastes and preferences. The company, which keeps its finger on the pulse of trends from fashion and retail to trade fairs, consistently produces jewellery lines with universal appeal. Last year, the company has stepped up its pace of overseas expansion targeting markets like China, the Middle East and Latin America, in addition to Europe and the US by building its core brands and strengthening each brand s individual proposition. Two of its most popular lines are the Arco Baleno Collection, which consists of fashion-forward pieces in 18-karat or 14-karat white, yellow or rose gold embellished with a wide variety of coloured gems. The collection includes bold rings, hoops and necklaces, set with multicolour sapphires, rubies, emeralds, peridots, aquamarines, blue topazes and more. The jeweller s Jade Adore Collection, a stylish line featuring hand-carved jade pendants and earrings with diamond accents, has also been warmly received by DewCarat s clients in Latin America, the Middle East and Russia. JNA Coloured gemstone jewellery by DewCarat. Photo credit: Jewellery images provided by DewCarat 34 February 2016

TECHNOLOGY Alloys from Heraeus Heraeus companies achieve RJC certification Heraeus Ltd and Heraeus Metals Hong Kong Ltd of the Heraeus Group recently obtained Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) member accreditation, and certification against RJC Chain of Custody (CoC) standards for three years, commencing November 2015. The two companies have been accredited to initiate CoC standards for eligible declarations of Recycled, Grandfathered and Mix of Recycled/Grandfathered materials, Heraeus Group said in a press release. According to the group, Heraeus Ltd s RJC member certification was the result of a successful audit conducted by Bureau Veritas (Hong Kong branch), an accredited auditing firm of RJC. We are proud to have achieved both of RJC s certifications, according to the Code of Practices and CoC standards, said Henrik Marx, general manager of Heraeus Ltd and Heraeus Metals Hong Kong Ltd. As one of Asia s major precious metal refiners, we are providing products and services to customers in the jewellery industry and bullion banks under those standards, thus contributing to the success of our customers. Marx also cited Heraeus strong commitment to corporate social responsibility and strict compliance standards. The certificate by RJC is an important milestone confirming these principles, he added. Heraeus Ltd commenced operations in Hong Kong in 1974. Its principal businesses include the refining, trading, manufacturing and marketing of precious metals either as pure metals or as products. For its part, Heraeus Metals Hong Kong Ltd is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Heraeus Ltd, which provides professional metal management services. Its core business includes 24-hour trading of gold, silver, platinum, palladium and other platinum group metals through its international network in Hanau, New York and Shanghai. Germany-based Heraeus Group, founded in 1851, is a leading name in the global precious metals industry. It has nearly 12,600 employees at over 100 sites in 38 countries, including the Greater China region. JNA Starter tool kit for diamond cutters Turkey-based Bulunmaz Diamond Tools, manufacturer of diamond tools and related machinery for the jewellery industry, is introducing a starter tool kit for diamond cutters. According to the company, diamond cutting is a precise and sophisticated technique that many newcomers in the industry have yet to master. To answer this need, Bulunmaz said it recently launched a tool kit for starters, which comes with 36 pieces of the most popular diamond tools used in the industry, including a 50K speed diamond-cutting machine. The kit likewise includes a free training DVD that provides easy-to-follow instructions. A comprehensive product information is posted on Bulunmaz s website while presentation videos can also be viewed on YouTube. In addition, the company conducts live demonstrations during international exhibitions in Vicenza, Hong Kong, Istanbul, Las Vegas, Bangkok, Surabaya and other locations. Jewellery tool set from Bulunmaz Bulunmaz was established as a local trading company in the Fatih district of Istanbul in 1916. It became a metal trading company in 1955 and was restructured as a diamond tool manufacturer in 1982. It specialises in high-precision cutting tools for the jewellery industry. Its three main product lines include diamond tools for hand use; diamond tools for machines the traditional line of diamond-cutting products used in making bangles, wedding bands and pendants; and diamond tools for CNC machines. JNA 60

TRADE FAIRS The 2015 Taiwan Jewellery & Gem Fair draws more than 9,600 buyers from 24 countries and regions Fine jewellery shines at Taiwan Fair The third edition of the Taiwan Jewellery & Gem Fair concluded on a positive note, with more than 9,600 buyers from 45 countries and regions participating in the four-day event. Held at the Taipei World Trade Center from November 20 to 23, the trade show featured 270 exhibitors from 24 countries and regions, according to trade fair organiser UBM Asia. A total of 460 booths offered an extensive array of products ranging from high-end jadeite and designer to bespoke and diamond jewellery collections. Japanese exhibitors, meanwhile, showcased refurbished jewellery pieces. Taiwan jewellery designs were among the show s highlights. According to the show organiser, local jewellers were allotted 30 percent more exhibition space compared with the show s 2014 edition. This year s fair drew buyers from Malaysia, Beijing, Guangdong and Fujian, thus offering overseas business opportunities to participating jewellers, UBM Asia said. Exhibitors Yi-Pin-Yi Gems and Chii Lih Coral hosted jewellery parades, which showcased jewellery pieces made of Taiwan s blue chalcedony and Aka coral. This marked the very first time that we attended the fair, and we re deeply impressed by the exquisiteness and variety of the jewels we saw, especially the coral and jadeite pieces that one rarely comes across at other fairs, said Ermin Siow, president of the Federation of Goldsmiths and Jewellers Association of Malaysia. Local companies attach great importance to the annual event, the largest of its kind in Taiwan. A high-quality business-to-business jewellery exhibition such as the Taiwan Jewellery & Gem Fair is important for Taiwan. Both trade and VIP buyers were well represented in it, said Cynthia Wang, marketing director of Diamond Bank, a gemstone trading platform operating in Taiwan. This year s market is less than brisk, but we still managed to catch the eye of some new buyers, especially major retailers from Malaysia and Indonesia, said Liang Chi Chang, general manager of Taiwan s Topkang Lapidary & Jewellery Arts. Several special events were held on the trade show s sidelines, including a carved coral exhibition by Master Huang Chung-Shan, a showcase featuring the winning pieces from the International Creative Jewellery Design Competition, educational seminars, and a section highlighting the outstanding pieces from a goldsmithing contest. We were happy to meet our existing suppliers at the fair because that saved us travelling time and costs. We are looking forward to the fair s next edition, said Karina Chang, purchasing manager of City Diamond, a chain retailer in Taiwan. The fourth edition of the Taiwan Fair is scheduled for October 21 to 24 at the Taipei World Trade Centre this year. JNA 72 February 2016

TRADE FAIRS Shanghai fair attracts more than 5,000 buyers The 11th China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair Shanghai drew 5,025 unique buyers from 30 countries and regions during the show s fourday run. Held from December 11 to 14 at the Shanghai Exhibition Center, the fair featured 354 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions, and occupied 14,000 sqm of exhibition space, trade show organiser UBM Asia revealed. The top sources of overseas buyers excluding those from Hong Kong were Sri Lanka, Taiwan, India and Japan. Jewellery collections manufactured by Japan-based companies were among the bestselling items in China, said Celine Lau, director of jewellery fairs at UBM Asia. In response to market demand, we launched at this edition the Japan Pavilion hosted by the Yamanashi Jewelry Association. Yamanashi is an important jewellery manufacturing base in Japan, and is famous for its jewellers excellent craftsmanship and stylish designs, Lau said. Vendors were generally pleased with the visitor turnout, describing the trade show as an ideal platform to reach quality buyers. I met my target audience from around the world, said first-time exhibitor Htay Htay, managing director of Htay Paing Gems & Jewellery of Myanmar. The fair is conveniently located, with comprehensive security measures implemented. The show also served as a springboard to establishing a presence in the China market. Yeasin MD Hossain, sales manager of MKS Jewellery International Co Ltd of Thailand, said his company s goal was to gain exposure in the Shanghai market and build business contacts. This is an ideal fair for us to meet target buyers from China and overseas. Shanghai is a great gateway for us to explore the China market, added Keung Chen of CHQ GmbH of Germany. Clienre Wu of Taiwan-based Glamour Fine Jewelry said the show provided the company opportunities to meet face to face with potential buyers. We have been joining this fair for a few years now. We met several buyers from the mainland, said Wu. We will exhibit again [in 2016]. Shum Ka Man Alysia, a representative of Japan-based Unison Manufacturing Co Ltd, described the show as an important stepping stone into the China market. Since it is one of the wellknown jewellery fairs in Shanghai, it is important for jewellers who are eyeing the China market to join this show, Shum said, adding that the exhibition was well-organised and world-class in terms of the services delivered by the organiser, with clear product sectorisation and tight security measures. We are going to exhibit again next year, the company official said. Buyers were likewise satisfied with the outcome of the show. I came to the fair to look for new suppliers. I met some from Sri Lanka, Poland and Myanmar. Their products are of high quality yet competitively priced, said Jacek Golinczak, sales manager of Gold Lion Refinery Ltd, a jewellery Buyers check out the latest jewellery collections at the China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair Shanghai wholesaler from the United Kingdom. Lawrence Mikuta of Tory Burch, a jewellery manufacturer and wholesaler from the US, found the fair a good place to source new products and learn about the latest market trends. Jostin Poley of MOS- Shanghai, a jewellery retailer from Australia, agreed, saying that the show provided a good venue for scoping out the latest industry developments. The fair is professional in all aspects, including the onsite services and security arrangements. I will visit the next edition, Poley added. Prashant Donda, a director of E. P. Impex (HK) Ltd, described the show as an ideal starting point for sourcing new products and suppliers, and collecting market information. I met my target suppliers from Sri Lanka. The fair is easy to navigate because the products are clearly categorised and located. I will continue to support this fair, Donda said. JNA 73