Consumer Aspirations, Claims Investigations, and Product Evaluations Birnur K. Aral, PhD Good Housekeeping Research Institute Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference 2014 London, UK June 3-4 2014
Good Housekeeping - Founded in 1885
Good Housekeeping Research Institute - Established in 1900
Our Roll of Honor
An American Icon There is a kind of assurance that buying your ring at Tiffany inures you from bad marital juju, as if the union were protected by the Good Housekeeping Seal of Approval. -The New York Times
Seal Emblem Recognition 92% 41% 34% 85% 22% 33% 79% 14% 29% 76% 24% 28% 66% 13% 22% 66% 16% 23% 64% 13% 26% 47% 6% 14% 43% 4% 12% Tremendous Influence Great Deal of Influence Some Influence 47% 37% 4% 4% 11% 9% 17% 30% 36% 24% 31% 27% 25% 27% 27% 25% 24% SOURCE: Fairfield Research, July 2011
Health, Beauty, and Environmental Sciences Lab Product Categories Beauty Products OTC drugs, dietary supplements Water filtration devices Insecticides, pesticides Pet food Consumer Advocacy Is It Safe to Heat Food in Plastic? Keratin Hair Treatments: Do they contain formaldehyde? Is Your Tap Water Safe? Partnered with U. of Arizona and U. of Nebraska Our Reach 20 million magazine readers 4.5million unique visitors to goodhousekeeping.com Product Reviews Channel Inside the Institute Blog 157K unique visitors a month 7 Years Younger best-selling books National and local TV, radio, newspaper interviews
Methodology Instrumentation Climatology Chamber Visia Complexion Analyzer-Canfield Corneometer- Courage-Khazaka Cutometer- Courage-Khazaka MPA 580 TEWL-cyberDERM RG-1-Evaporimeter Chromameter-Minolta CR-310 Wash Station-Custom design Mechanical Tester-Instron Model 5944 with TRI s Comb attachment Shine Cylinder-Custom design Consumer Panel Survey Monkey Survey Analytics Panel Size: 4000+ 85% Female On-Site Testers: 350+ 100+ within Hearst Tower At least 22 testers enrolled per product
Launched in 2010 AA Skin Categories Day creams with SPF Night creams Eye creams Serums Age-spot treatments Peels Instant wrinkle smoothers Firming Creams Lip treatments Hand Creams Sunscreens Body Lotions AA Hair AA Makeup Categories Foundations Primers Concealers Lipsticks Plumpers
The Story In Numbers 2,478 Female testers age 35 or older Average age: 49 Products Screened: 1083 Advisory boards Top dermatologists Top makeup artists Products Tested: 271 Consumer questionnaires tallied: 5,778 Visia before-and-after pictures: 12,337 Corneometer data points: 20,820 Cutometer data points: 11,696 Products Awarded: 69 Winners: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/product-reviews/
Topicals do have limitations but you can get good results 62 year old subject after 8 weeks of daily use of drugstore brand day moisturizer with SPF 30 containing retinol
At times you can get striking results 80 year old subject after 8 weeks of twice daily use of drugstore brand serum with pro-retinol
Some General Observations Price doesn t always correlate with performance Boots No7 Protect and Perfect Serum ($21/1 oz) Gold in 2010 La Prairie Cellular Power Charge Night Cream ($475/1.35 oz) Gold in 2013 Facial Moisturizers With SPF 30 (2013) less moisturizing than those with SPF 15 SPF 30- ~6.5% at 6 hrs. SPF15- ~19% at 6 hrs. Night creams tested in 2013 in two categories w/ and w/o retinol performed similarly in the lab and with consumers Products w/retinol more potent but not tolerated as well panelists skipping 1-3 days between use Anti-ageing makeup Were skeptical at first but Moisturizing and/or firming foundations and concealers No significant improvements in wrinkles Fragrance: Very polarizing- Have to get it right! Categories we saw improvements from 2010 to 2013 Peels: Pad applicators Instant wrinkle smoothers: More visible improvements Serums: Emergence of dropper applicators in 2013 : Not a fan!
Sun Protection - Best Action Against Skin s Ageing Results from our latest Sunscreen Test 17 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 products with 80 min water-resistance Best sellers as per each brand 9 Lotions + 6 aerosols+1 gel+ 1milk 14 chemical sunscreens + 3 mineral/physical sunscreens Field test in Summer 2013 + stain testing in the Lab Each product distributed to minimum of 22 testers 15-22 Returned per product N=332 In 41 states Ages 18 and above ~5% of tester pool was male They used it at least twice while outdoors in the sun 66% exercised outdoors such as jogging and biking 52% went to the pool or swam 37% went to the beach 24% were involved in other activities, which included yard work/gardening, playing tennis, etc. 16% went boating/sailing
General Results Consumers generally satisfied with the sunscreen category All scored excellent for preventing from sunburn and quite well for water resistance. Consumer Satisfaction #1-Chemical sunscreens non-aerosols #2-Mineral sunscreens #3-Chemical sunscreens - aerosols Low in fragrance, texture, and irritation/stinging attributes Low in being oily/greasy/slippery and leaving a filmy residue Did not score higher for ease of application Stain Testing performance 1- Mineral sunscreens 2- Chemical sunscreens non-aerosols 3- Chemical sunscreens - aerosols
SPSS Analysis- Linear Regression Ease of Use + Performance Predictor variables (12) 1. This product was easy to apply to my body. 2. This product had a pleasant fragrance. 3. I liked the texture of this product. 4. The product absorbed well into my skin. 5. This product did not leave a filmy residue on my skin. 6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation. 7. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel, furniture, etc. 8. This product did not feel tacky on my skin 9. This product did not feel greasy/oily/slippery on my skin. 10.This product didn t make my skin feel dry. 11.This product resisted water well. 12.I didn t get sunburn during the times I used this product. Satisfaction Dependent/criterion variable (1) 1. Overall, I was satisfied with the product to continue using it. Open-ended Likes Dislikes Other Comments
Most Important Attributes That Drive Consumers First Zero-order correlations of all 12 variables was carried out then a stepwise multiple regression was conducted R 2 = 0.67 1. I like the texture of this product : 0.376 2. This product was easy to apply to my body: 0.240 3. This product absorbed well into my skin: 0.222 4. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel, furniture, etc.: 0.185 5. This product had a pleasant fragrance: 0.177 6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation: 0.113 Text analysis feature of Survey Monkey used to analyze comments for Likes 1. Easy to apply/easily/application 2. Greasy/ Not oily/texture 3. Smell/Fragrance 4. Protected/Burn 5. Absorbed
What Sways Consumers Decision Negatively Looked at outliers in our data where a consumer s overall satisfaction behaved in an unpredictable way A larger data set is ideal When disliked following were among those that swayed consumers overall satisfaction negatively. 1. This product had a pleasant fragrance. 2. This product did not leave a filmy residue. 3. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation. 4. This product did not feel drying The text analysis feature of the Survey Monkey was utilized to analyze open-ended consumers Dislikes 1. Smell/Scent/Fragrance/Odor 2. Greasy 3. White/Residue
State of Anti-Ageing Skin care - Consumer Insights Understanding consumers habits and unmet needs in AA Skin Care Polled ~1,200 female US consumers in March 2014 Majority of panel testing anti-ageing products for us for the last 5 years Age range 22 to 83 with average at 48 86.5% Caucasian, 4.7% Hispanic, 3.9% Asian, 3.2% African American 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0% 0.9 Yes 0.1 No Do you specifically look for beauty products with anti-ageing benefits?
Since what age have you been using skin care products with anti-ageing claims? 40% 35% 30% 25% 0.35 0.33 20% 15% 0.16 0.14 10% 5% 0.02 0% Since my teen years Since my twenties Since my thirties Since my forties Since my fifties
What is the one anti-ageing product type that you have seen results with and can t live without? 30% 25% 0.24 20% 15% 0.17 0.14 0.15 10% 0.1 0.1 5% 0% 0.03 Anti-aging Facial Cleanser Anti-aging Day Moisturizer Facial Sunscreen Anti-aging Night Cream Anti-aging Serum 0.01 0.01 Anti-aging Mask Anti-aging Peel Anti-aging Eye Cream 0.01 Anti-aging Neck Cream N/A 0.03 Other (Please specify)
Do you use sunscreen protection on your face? No: 10% Yes: 90% If you use a daily facial sunscreen what SPF do you use? SPF 50 or higher 6% SPF 45 4% I don't know the SPF of the product I use. 4% Other (Please describe) 4% Less than SPF 15 2% SPF 15 41% SPF 30 39%
Is there a specific area of concern on your face or body that are not addressed sufficiently with any of the skin care products you have tried? 14% 12% 0.12 10% 0.1 0.09 0.09 0.1 0.1 8% 0.08 0.08 0.07 6% 0.05 0.06 4% 0.04 2% 0% 0.01 0.02
Have you had any of the following professional procedures? Other. Please specify which treatments you have had N/A Radio Frequency Treatments Ultrasound Therapy Lasers Fillers Botox Microdermabrasion Chemical Peels 4% 1% 1% 4% 3% 6% 7% 12% 61% If you never had any of the following professional procedures in the past, which one will you consider in the near future? Other. Please specify which other treatments you would consider Don't know enough about these to have an opinion. Will never get any such treatments Radio Frequency Treatments Ultrasound Therapy Lasers Fillers Botox Microdermabrasion Chemical Peels 3% 6% 10% 8% 10% 9% 8% 11% 15% 20%
Do you think the term "anti-ageing" has a negative connotation? Yes: 12% No: 88 % Average Age: 48 Age Range: 23-83 Other terms to be used instead of anti-ageing? Other. Please specify the other terms you Age-delaying Age-preventing Age-defying Age-fighting Age-reversing Reviving Refreshing Restoring Regenerating Renewing Rejuvenating 2 % 2% 4% 4% 5% 7% 10% 11% 12% 14% 14% 16%
Miriam Arond, Director, Good Housekeeping Research Institute Health, Beauty, and Environmental Sciences Lab Mary Clarke, Senior Product Analyst Sabina Burdzovic, Chemist Megan Inayoshi, Product Analyst Olivia Torres, Freelancer Dr. Steven Q. Wang, Head, Basking Ridge Dermatology Section; Director of Dermatologic Surgery and Dermatology, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center Home Appliance and Cleaning Products Lab Carolyn Forte, Director Lexie Sachs, Product Analyst