2016 FORMULATION GUIDE Where Amino Acids are the Essence of our Personal Care
CONTENTS SOLUTIONS from Nature DISCOVER OUR NEW INGREDIENTS 06 Amisafe LL-DS-22 Facial wash paste 09 Amilite GCK-12H Facial cleanser cream Pearl body wash 12 Amisoft ECS-22W Transparent shower gel FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL 16 Hand Cream 17 Loose Powder Foundation Amino acids are called the source of LIFE for good reasons. Our bodies muscles, organs, SKIN and HAIR are all made up of proteins, which are unique combinations of 20 types of AMINO ACIDS. To bring the blessings of the earth and the very essence of life to more people, AJINOMOTO develops amino acid based PERSONAL CARE ingredients, FRIENDLY to people and to earth. The aim of this formulary is to INSPIRE you in your existing or future product developments. UPDATE ON GELATINIZATION AGENTS FORMULATION FINDER 28 18 BB Balm 19 Cushion Cream 20 Pearl Hair Shampoo 26 Lipgloss
DISCOVER OUR NEW INGREDIENTS
LPS-88 FACIAL WASH PASTE SENSORY TEST: Evaluators rated sensory of LPS-88 formulation called Q (with AMISAFE) as Good, Comparable or Bad in comparison to the control formulation called P (without AMISAFE). Amisafe LL-DS-22 improves foamability and leaves silky smooth dry skin-feel. Amisoft LS-11 (F) is used in a "ripening" process to get this facial cleansing paste. Amisoft also imparts moisturized feel to the skin as well as Ajidew NL-50. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A AMISOFT LS-11(F) 30,0 Foaming surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC COCAMIDE MEA 1,0 Viscosity modifier AMISOL CME / Kawaken Fine Chemicals Lather speed Foam volume Water hardness of tap water: 60ppm as CaCO3 n=6 Preferable Comparable Unpreferable STEARIC ACID 0,5 Foam quality improver NAA-180 / NOF B AJIDEW NL-50 (50%) 1,0 Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC PROPYLENE GLYCOL 12,0 Moisturizer Fine bubbles DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,0 Moisturizer GLYCERIN 3,0 Moisturizer Silky smooth (dry skin feel) WATER balance C GLYCOL STEARATE 0,5 Viscosity modifier EMALEX EGS-A / NIHON EMULSION Total D PEG-150 STEARATE 5,0 Thickener EMANON 3199V / KAO WATER 15,0 E AMISAFE LL-DS-22 (10%) 0,5 Foam booster, Sensory improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC 0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100% Technical data sheet: 0125-0720E WATER 4,3 2% CITRIC ACID solution 0,2 ph Adjuster 1. Mix part E at room temperature and form a gel. 2. Add part B to part A at room temperature and dissolve at 80 C. 3. Add part C with stirring. 4. Add part D at 70 C to part A and disperse. 5. Cool down to crystallizing temperature (40~45 C). 6. After cool down to 35 C, heat to crystallizing temperature with stirring (Ripening process). 7. Add part E with stirring. 8. Cool down to 30 C. Lather speed: Evaluators prefered Q formulation (with Amisafe) as lather speed is quicker than P formulation s one ph: 5.1 (1% aq.) Stability: 0 C, 5 C, 25 C, 40 C, Cycle (-5 C<=>40 C) for one month. 6 7
FACIAL CLEANSER CREAM YSF-73-6 A facial wash formula which contains AMILITE GCK-12H as a primary surfactant. This facial wash shows excellent foamability in spite of low active surfactant concentration. Cold- crystalization process is possible. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A PEG-14M 0,5 Viscosity modifier POLYOX WSR N-3000 / DOW CHEMICAL WATER 9,5 B HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 2,0 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO NOBEL WATER 20,0 C ACRYLATES COPOLYMER(30%) 2,0 Thickening polymer CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 / LUBRIZOL ACRYLATES/VINYL NEODECANOATE CROSSPOLYMER(29%) 3,0 Thickening polymer ACULYN 38 / DOW CHEMICAL WATER 5,0 D AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 33,0 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE(30%) 3,0 Co-surfactant SOFTAZOLINE LHL / KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) 6,0 Co-surfactant SOFTAZOLINE LPB / KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS PRESERVATIVE WATER q.s. balance E TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0,3 Opacifier F CITRIC ACID (20%) 1,0 ph adjuster TIPEQUE CR-50 / ISHIHARA SANGYO THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE G FRAGRANCE q.s. 1. Prepare part A, part B and part C in separate vessels. 2. Dissolve part D with stirring. 3. Add part A to part D with stirring. 4. Add part B to part A+D slowly with stirring. 5. Add part C and disperse well until uniform. 6. Add part E and disperse well until uniform. 7. Adjust ph with part F. 8. Add part G with gentle stirring. ph: 6.8 (1% aq.) Stability: -5, 25, 45 C, for 1 month. 8 9
DB-SW-15A-FA Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (70%) PEARL BODY WASH This mild body wash is enriched with emollient oil. AMILITE GCK-12H provides a luxurious foam and quick lathering even in the presence of oils. With the "Nourishing by washing concept" even dry skins have excellent silky feeling after use. 7,20 Primary cleansing surfactant TEXPON N-70 / BASF Below graph shows foam volume of a body wash* using Amilite GCK-12H vs other standard surfactants (dark blue bars). The light blue bars show the impact of oil addition on each formulation. 150 140 Mixer method, 1.0wt% body wash, 30 C DB-KH7A DB-KH7A+0.6% Petrolatum AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 10,00 Foam booster, texturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 3,30 Co-surfactant HOSTAPON SCI 85 G / CLARIANT GLYCERINE 1,00 Moisturizer SODIUM CHLORIDE 1,00 Viscosity modifier PRESERVATIVE WATER q.s. balance Foam volume (ml) 130 120 110 B HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 5,00 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO C PETROLATUM 5,00 Emollient SUN WHITE P-200 / NIKKO RICA D COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (30%) 17,00 Co-surfactant DEHYTON K / BASF 100 GCK-12H SLES SCI LAA C12FA CAPB APG MEA Technical data sheet: 0115-1390E & 0115-1400E E CITRIC ACID (20% aq.) 0,40 ph adjustment F FRAGRANCE q.s. THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE. *Body wash Test Formulations DB-KH7A (wt % ) Sodium laureth sulfate (70%) 7,2 1. Dissolve part A at 70 ~ 80 C with stirring. 2. Add part B to part A and mix well. 3. Add part C with stirring. 4. After confirmation of dissolution, add part D with stirring. 5. Cool down to 45 C, then add part E to adjust the ph to 7.0. 6. Add part F and cool down to room temperature with stirring. ph: 7,0 Viscosity: 25,000~36,000mPa s (B-type, Rotor N o.4, 12rpm, 30sec., 25 C). Stability: 0 C, 25 C, 45 C, cycle (-5<=>40 C) 1 month. Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) Foaming surfactant 17,0 3.0 active Sodium cocoyl isethionate 3,3 Glycerin 1,0 Glycol distearate 1,0 Laureth-4 1,0 PPG-7 1,0 Sodium chloride 0,8 Thickening polymers 1,5 Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.) Water to ph6.6 balance Total (%) 100,0 Foaming surfactant AMILITE G SLES SCI Sodium cocoyl isethionate LAA Sodium lauroamphoacetate C12FA Sodium Laurate CAPB APG Decyl glucoside MEA cocamide MEA 10 11
KNS-054-21W-6 TRANSPARENT SHOWER GEL A viscous, sulfate-free, DEA-free clear shower gel. AMISOFT ECS-22W produces rich foam and creamy lather even at weakly acidic ph range. Amisoft can be used as a primary surfactant and is easy to thicken. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A AMISOFT ECS-22W (30%) 20,0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%) 15,0 Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7 Primary foaming surfactant Secondary foaming surfactant Additional foaming surfactant Glyceryl Caprate 2,0 Viscosity modifier Glycerin 2,0 Moisturizer Sodium Chloride 0,3 Viscosity modifier AJINOMOTO CO. INC DEHYTON K / BASF MIRANOL ULTRA L-32 / SOLVAY - RHODIA SUNSOFT NO.760 / TAIYO KAGAKU KOGYO PEG-150 Distearate 0,4 Thickening polymer EMANON 3299V / KAO Water balance Foam volume (ml) Below graph shows foam volume (blue bars) and foam stability ( ) of a shampoo* containing Amisoft ECS-22W vs the same formulation using other standard anionic surfactants. 310 300 290 280 270 260 5% as is, 35 C, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO 3 ) 250 40 ECS-22W SAR ISE CMT SLES 90 80 70 60 50 Foam stability (%) After 5 minutes Preservatives q.s. B Fragrance q.s. C Citric Acid (20% aq.) 4,7 ph adjustment THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE. Sulfate-free formulation Technical data sheet: 0101-4110E 1. Mix part A until homogeneous with stirring at 70~80 C. 2. Cool down to 50 C with stirring. 3. Add part B. 4. Adjust ph to 5.8 ~ 6.0 by part C and cool down to r.t. with stirring. ph: 5,8 Viscosity: 4,000 ~ 8,000 mpa s (B-type, Rotor N o.3 12rpm, 30sec., 25 C). Stability: 25 C, 45 C, cycle(-5<=>40 C) 1 month. *Shampoo Test Formulas Anionic surfactants (wt % ) 6,0 active Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 15,0 Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7 Glyceryl caprate 2,0 Sodium chloride 0,5 PEG-150 distearate 1,0 Citric acid ph 5.8 Water balance Anionics surfactants AMISOFT ECS-22W SAR: Sodium lauroyl sarcosine ISE: Sodium cocoyl isethionate CMT: Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate SLES Preservatives q.s. Total (%) 100,0 METHOD: 1 2 1. 550 ml beaker 2. Dilute a shampoo 2~5 g with water (35 C) to 100 g Stir at around 3,400 rpm (the lowest speed of the mixer) for 10 sec. Foam volume (ml) 12 13
FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL
NEH-3 HAND CREAM In this hand cream formulation AMIHOPE LL improves absorbency of the cream as well as silky smooth skinfeel. Amisoft HS-11P is used as a co-emulsifier at a very low percentage to get a very stable formulation. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A MINERAL OIL 13,0 Emollient PARAFFIN 8,0 Emollient MORESCOWHITE P70 / MORESCO REFINED PARAFFIN WAX / NIKKO RIKA HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1,0 Emollient CASTOR WAX A / NOF STEARYL ALCOHOL 2,0 Emollient STEARETH-2 6,0 Emulsifier EMALEX 602 / NIHON EMULSION PEG-8 DISTEARATE 1,2 Emulsifier EMALEX 400di-S / NIHON EMULSION STEARETH-8 0,4 Emulsifier EMALEX 608 / NIHON EMULSION CETETH-15 0,3 Emulsifier EMALEX 115 / NIHON EMULSION ZINC STEARATE 0,2 Texture improver ZINC STEARATE / NOF AMIHOPE LL 0,5 Texture improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC B AMISOFT HS-11P 0,1 Co Emulsifier AJINOMOTO CO. INC PRESERVATIVE WATER q.s. balance 1. Dissolve and disperse part A with stirring at 80 C. 2. Add part B at 80 C to part A slowly with stirring. 3. Cool down to room temperature with stirring. ph: 6,5 Viscosity: 37,500-50,000 mpa.s (B type, rotor N.4, 12rpm, 30sec., 25 C). Stability: 50 C, 25 C, -5 C, Cycle (-5 C<=>40 C) for one month. LOOSE POWDER FOUNDATION This powder foundation provides excellent coverage without sacrificing natural finish. AMIHOPE LL imparts several features to it: smooth spreadability, good adhesion, excellent coverage, non-drying, matte, not shimmering, natural finish. On top, AMIHOPE LL reduces drying feel of powders. Eldew SL-205 and Eldew PS-203R are used for their emollience properties. This formulation containing a lot of powders, Eldew SL-205 is used to improve their dispersability. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier A TALC, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 18,00 TALC DN-SH / DAI NIHON KASEI MICA, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 54,90 SI01-2 MICA No.5500 / DAITO KASEI TITANIUM DIOXIDE 18,00 CR-50 / ISHIHARA SANGYO TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ALUMINUM STEARATE 3,00 MT-100Z / TAYCA IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Red) 0,60 SI01-2 TALLOX LLXLO / DAI NIHON KASEI IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Yellow) 1,50 SI01-2 TALLOX R-516L / DAI NIHON KASEI IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Black) 0,30 SI01-2 TALLOX BL-100 / DAI NIHON KASEI SILICA 0,50 SUNSPHERE H-51 / ASAHI GLASS AMIHOPE LL 2,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC METHYLPARABEN 0,20 B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 0,59 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS 1. Weigh all ingredients of part A and mill them. 2. Mix part B with heating to 40 C. 3. Add part B to Part A and mill again. ELDEW PS-203R 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC ELDEW SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC TOCOPHEROL 0,01 IN-USE TEST: A silicon-treated talc was added to a commercial talc-free loose powder foundation (Foundation A): This pre-mix is called Foundation B: 40wt% of talc added to 60% of foundation. Then 2wt% of Amihope LL were added to Foundation B to get Foundation C. LP-0401-3 The foundations were applied to artificial leather (Idemitsu Technofine) by a standardized manner and observed by a video microscope. Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, emollients (oils), antioxidant, preservatives, pigments (ion dioxides etc.). Figure 1 - Talc-free product (Foundation A) Figure 2 - Foundation B (Silicone-treated talc added) Figure 3 - Foundation C (2% AMIHOPE LL added) Talc imparted soft, smooth touch to the spreading feel, and dry, light feel on the skin. With additional 2wt% AMIHOPE LL, natural sheer finish, non-drying feel and coverage were improved. Evaluation on the artificial leather also showed sheer, non-cakey finish (Figure 3, left part) and even film over furrows and ridges (Figure 3, right part). 16 17
ACAC-BB-08 BB BALM CUSHION CREAM CUSHION CREAM A highly concealing foundation formulation using our pseudo-ceramide ingredient Eldew PS-203R. Amihope LL, our functional powder and our amino acid derived Gelatinization Agent GP-1 provide good spreadability, turning the smooth oil gel into powder, leaving a non-oily silky soft feel on the skin. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 38.92 Emollient NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 5.20 Emollient SILICONE STV-5 / DOW CORNING TITANIUM DIOXIDE 7.42 UV filter TTO-D2 / ISHIHARA SANGYO SILICA, METHICONE 4.67 Texturizer SI-5 SILDEX H-52 / DAITO KASEI MICA, DEA-C8-18 PERFLUOROALKYLETHYL PHOSPHATE 1.85 Extender PF-5 MICA N.5500 / DAITO KASEI POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 5.93 Texturizer TOSPEARL 2000B / MOMENTIVE AMIHOPE LL 1.00 Sensory improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC ELDEW PS-203R 0.50 Pseudo-ceramide AJINOMOTO CO. INC B PIGMENT DISPERSION (WHITE) 10.72 Pigment DIDW 50 DF / KOBO PIGMENT DISPERSION (YELLOW) 1.03 Pigment DIDW 45 DYF / KOBO PIGMENT DISPERSION (RED) 0.33 Pigment DIDW 40 DRF / KOBO PIGMENT DISPERSION (BLACK) 0.17 Pigment DIDW 55 DBF / KOBO C OCTYLDODECANOL 18.75 Solubilizer for GP-1 EUTANOL G / BASF GELATINIZATION AGENT GP-1 3.50 Oil gelling agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC 1. Mix part B until uniform at room temperature. 2. Mix part A at room temperature. 3. Dissolve part C at 120 C with stirring. 4. Heat part A around 80-90 C. 5. Add part B to part A while heating around 80-90 C. 6. Add part C to mixer and mix at 80 C. 7. Pour into a jar quickly. Cool down to room temperature without mixing. Stability: 1, 25, 45 C, Cycle (-5 n<=>40 C), for 3 months. The lightweight water foundation is inspired from the Korean concept of Cushion Cream. Eldew SL-205 helps dispersing pigments without sticky effect. Amihope LL gives silky feeling during application, which is really easy thanks to the pad. Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier A Aqua q.s. Sclerotium Gum 0,30 ACTIGUM VSX 20 / CARGILL Carrageenan 0,30 SATIAGUM CD / CARGILL Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer (and) Water (and) Aminomethyl Propanol 5,00 KOBOGUARD 50 AMP / KOBO B METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 1,00 GLUCATE SS / LUBRIZOL C PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE 3,00 GLUCAMATE SSE-20 / LUBRIZOL Eldew SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC Isopropyl Isostearate 6,00 SCHERCEMOL 318 / LUBRIZOL Phenyltrimethicone 2,00 BRB PTM 20 / BRB Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Dimethicone 2,50 BRB TMS 30D / BRB Titanium Dioxide (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrated Silica (and) Algin (And) Aluminum Hydroxide 6,00 COMPOSITE ACT 50 / KOBO Amihope LL 1,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC Tocopherol 0,10 DL-ALPHA TOCOPHEROL / EISAI Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum Iron Oxides [C.I. 77499] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum Titanium Dioxide (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum D Preservatives 1,00 3,50 GLW45GYSP / KOBO 0,50 GLW55GRSP / KOBO 0,25 GLW60GBSP / KOBO 6,00 GLW75PFSP / KOBO Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Alumina 1,50 MSP-AK06/ KOBO Fragrance 0,20 PARFUM ORANGE BLOSSOM / IFF Mica (and) Titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides (C.J.77491) 0,12 KTZ SUNBURST GOLD/ KOBO 1. Heat water and Koboduard 50AMP up to 70-75 C. 2. Add Actigum VSX20 and Satiagum CD while stirring, until complete gel formation. 3. Heat phase B at 70-75 C 4. At 70-75 C under stirring, poor phase B in Phase A. Homogenised for 2 minutes (Ultra-Turrax, 7200rpm). Cool it down to 40 C. 5. Prepare phase C and add it to previous one (40 C). Stir until homogeneous colour is obtained. 6. Add phase D and then phase E. Stir. 7. Adjust ph at 5.6-5.8.After 24h, ph will increase. ph: 6.1-6.3 Viscosity: 680 cps (RVT mobile SC4-21, speed 50). Stability: 1 month at 50 C / 3 months at 40 C. 18 4 5 19
NSPX-0019 PEARL HAIR SHAMPOO Preparation of recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate: When AMIHOPE LL is precipitated in a surfactant solution the particle size tends to be smaller and the dispersing the LL in a liquid cleansing formulation is easier. This AMIHOPE LL concentrate is stable, suitable as a premix for various preparations. This mild shampoo is suitable for natural concept: thanks to the use of recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate, a natural pearlescent effect is obtained. In addition, AMIHOPE LL improves conditioning property of the shampoo. Amisoft CS-22 is used as a natural cleansing surfactant. Part Ingredient (wt %) Function Trade name / Supplier A XANTHAN GUM 1,00 Thickening polymer KELTROL CGT / CP KELCO LL Concentrate (wt %) AMIHOPE LL 12,5 Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0 Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0 Sodium hydroxide 2,7 Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0 Water to 100.0 AMIHOPE LL 12.5 NaOH 2.7 Water 34.8 Stir and dissolve at room temperature B WATER 49,00 C AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 10,00 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC D COCO-GLUCOSIDE (52%) 6,00 Co-surfactant PLANTACARE 818UP / BASF GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 2,00 Foam booster SUNSOFT 700-P2 / TAIYO KAGAKU ARGININE 0,30 Foam booster AJINOMOTO CO. INC WATER balance AMIHOPE LL 0,63 Conditioning / peralizing agent & foam booster SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,14 Neutralizer for LL WATER 2,43 AJINOMOTO CO. INC E LAURYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 1200UP / BASF DECYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 2000UP / BASF Citric acid (30% aq.) 20.0 Cf. The adding rate: 0.1g / sec (100g scale) Precipitation Clear Stir and dissolve at room temperature Lauryl glucoside (50%)* A 15.0 Decyl glucoside (50%)* B 15.0 * A PLANTACARE 1200up Cognis * B PLANTACARE 2000up Cognis Avoid bubble formation. Remove the entangled bubble before the next step. F CITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 1,00 ph adjuster G CITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 2,00 ph adjuster THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE. 1. Thoroughly disperse part A in part B at room temperature. 2. Add part C to part A and stir until homogeneous at room temperature. 3. In a separate vessel mix part D and stir until it becomes clear. 4. Add part E to part D with gentle stirring. 3+4+5 = recrystallized Amihope LL 5. While agitating part D add part F and stir until homogeneous concentrate preparation 6. Add part D to part A with stirring. 7. Adjust the ph to 5.4 with part G. Stir at room temperature* 1 * 2 * 1 The condition of stirring depends on the vessel size or the impeller shape. Particle size of AMIHOPE LL tends to be smaller when being precipitated at lower temperature and with stronger stirring. * 2 Stir more gently once the formulation becomes thickened in order to avoid bubble entanglement. ph: 5,4 Viscosity: 2,000-3,000 mpa.s (B type, rotor N o.3, 30rpm, 30sec., 25 C). Stability: 50 C, 40 C, 25 C, 0 C, -5 C, Cycle for a month. Recrystallized AMIHOPE LL concentrate Technical data sheet: 0501-0261E 20 21
NSPX-0019 PEARL HAIR SHAMPOO Below pictures show result of the formulation NSPX-0019 using Amihope LL (left bottle and drop) and the result without Amihope LL (right bottle and drop): SENSORY TEST RESULT: Foam quality Shampoo with AMIHOPE LL is Better Equal Worse n=11 During washing Foam speed Foam volume Finger through SENSORY TEST: By addition of AMIHOPE LL to a hair shampoo formulation using recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate, foamability and hair-feel during washing and rinsing are improved. During rinsing After rinsing Hair softness Hair smoothness Detangling Wet hair smoothness Preference Technical data sheet: 0501-0191E Without AMIHOPE LL With AMIHOPE LL Lauryl glucoside (50%) 9,0 9,0 The shampoo with AMIHOPE LL was perceived as better performing in terms of foamability, finger-through during washing, hair smoothness and detangling property during rinse. AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 20,0 20,0 Citric acid (30% aq.) 2,7 2,7 Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 4,0 4,0 AMISAFE AL-01 0,2 0,2 Magnesium chloride 1,5 1,5 Glyceryl caprate 3,0 3,0 A: Control 5,0 - B: AMIHOPE LL concentrate - 5,0 Water to 100.0 to 100.0 AMIHOPE LL conc. (wt%) 0,000 0,625 A: Control B: LL Concentrate AMIHOPE LL - 12,5 Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0 Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0 Sodium hydroxide 2,7 2,7 Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0 4,0 Water to 100.0 to 100.0 Technical data sheet: 0501-0261E 22 23
UPDATE ON GELATINIZATION AGENTS
LGMS-B10GP LIPGLOSS GELATINIZATION AGENTS: To get gelatinization agents, we add an alkyl long chain to glutamic acid. The alkyl chain of EB-21 is branched and the one of GP-1 is linear. On top, each gelatinization agent has 3 amide functions which can form hydrogen bonds. H2N * O OH Below formulation is a great example showing how our gelatinization agents can reduce stringy effect. Indeed EB-21/GP-1 can increase the viscosity of viscous oils such as hydrogenated polyisobutene. Viscosity (Pa s) 60 50 40 30 20 10 Hydrogenated polyisobutene: Octyldodecanol = 80 : 20 Viscosity of commercial lip gloss 0 O OH L-Glutamic acid 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 Concentration of EB-21, GP-1 (wt%) EB-21 Not stringy while lifting up but good spreadability during rubbing GP-1 H N * N H H N * N H GP-1 is used in this lipgloss formulation to reduce stringy effect of hydrogenated polyisobutene. On top, it enables excellent transparency and non-sticky feeling on the lips. Eldew PS-203R, our ceramide-like ingredient, is used as a damage prevention and damage repair ingredient. O N H EB-21 CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide O GP-1 CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide N H Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier A GP-1 0,4 AJINOMOTO CO. INC OCTYLDODECANOL 10,0 RISONOL 20SP / KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 25,0 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS You can get really innovative products thanks to the kind of texture obtained with our gelling agents. It is possible to get a jelly (as on the right hand picture) or a hard gel but it is not possible to get a viscous oil (as on the left hand picture). DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 10,0 COSMOL 222S / NISSHIN OILLIO ELDEW PS-203R 8,0 AJINOMOTO CO. INC TOCOPHEROL q.s. NOT ACHIEVABLE ACHIEVABLE PRESERVATIVE C HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE balance PARLEAM V / NOF q.s. HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 20,0 PARLEAM HV / NOF D PEARLESCENT PIGMENT q.s. REFLECKS RAYS OF RED / BASF Viscous Oil, flowable Texture that cannot be achieved by gelatinization agents Oil gel Achievable textures by gelatinization agents 1. Dissolve part A at 92 C with stirring. 2. Add part B to part A at 75 C, and mix well. 3. Add part C to part A at 70 C, and mix well. 4. Add part D to part A at 70 C, and mix well. 5. Cool down to room temperature. Stability: 5 C, 25 C, 40 C, Cycle (-5<=>40 C) for 1 month. 26 27
FORMULATION FINDER Product category Product Amilite GCK-12H Formulation ref YSF-73-6 Application Facial Cleanser Cream Page DB-SW-15A-FA Pearl Body Wash 10 09 Product category EMOLLIENT Product Formulation ref LP-0401-3 Application Loose Powder Foundation Page Eldew PS-203R ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18 LGMS-B10GP Transparent Lipgloss 17 26 Amisoft ECS-22W KNS-054-21W-6 Transparent Shower Gel 12 Eldew SL-205 LP-0401-3 Loose Powder Foundation 17 ANIONIC SURFACANT Amisoft CS-22 NSPX-0019 Pearl Hair Shampoo 20 Cushion Cream Cushion Cream 19 Amisoft HS-11P NEH-3 Hand Cream 16 NEH-3 Hand Cream 16 Amisoft LS-11(F) LPS-88 Facial Wash Paste 06 LP-0401-3 Loose Powder Foundation 17 HUMECTANT Ajidew NL-50 Amisfe LL-DS-22 LPS-88 LPS-88 Facial Wash Paste Facial Wash Paste 06 06 FUNCTIONAL POWDER Amihope LL ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18 Cushion Cream Cushion Cream 19 NSPX-0019 Pearl Hair Shampoo 20 GELATINIZATION AGENTS GP-1 ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18 LGMS-B10GP Transparent Lipgloss 26 AMINO ACID L-Arginince C NSPX-0019 Pearl Hair Shampoo 20 28 29
NOTES CONTACT S.A. Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V. Industrial Research Park Fleming B-1348 Louvain-la-Neuve Belgium Phone : +32 10 48 32 22 Fax: +32 10 45 62 27 ASD-sales-SC@aoc.ajinomoto.com www.ulprospector.com Note: The information is provided based upon our technical data and present knowledge. However, we make no warranties, expressed or implied, and assume no liabilities in connection with any use of the information with respect to specific property, safety and suitability for a specific application. It is also not guaranteed that use of the information does not fall within the scope of any intellectual property rights. 30 31